Micro swiss hotend clogging

Micro swiss hotend clogging DEFAULT

Micro Swiss all metal hot end issues.

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Obadiah King

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Dec 30, 2015, 6:06:39 PM12/30/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

I have installed the Micro Swiss all metal hot end in a Duplicator i3 V2.  It will print fine through the first half of a print, but then will under extrude like it is getting clogged.  I have taken it apart and check for anything obvious, surface imperfections etc.  I have reinstalled it 4 times now with the same results, I have printed PLA at 196, 200, 205, 210, and 215, all temp have the same issue.  PLA can be manually extruded with now issues.  Any ideas, or others with the same issue?

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Danny Gentry

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Dec 30, 2015, 7:01:46 PM12/30/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Did you use the thermal paste between the thermal tube and the cooling bar?

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Obadiah King

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Dec 30, 2015, 7:35:41 PM12/30/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Yes, I used the thermal paste in the cooling bar.

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adam paul

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Dec 31, 2015, 12:26:18 AM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Your fan is blowing INTO the heatsink and always running? The contact between the heatsink and the cooling bar is good? I put a thin bad of paste here on my printers as well as the cooling bar/thermal barrier union. Basically you need to figure out why your not cooling the cold side.

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Obadiah King

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Dec 31, 2015, 4:31:49 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Yes, the fan is blowing into the heat sink, and I had also added thermal paste between the heat sink and the cooling bar.

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Danny Gentry

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Dec 31, 2015, 6:13:14 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

What are your layer height, retraction, and speed settings?
Does it start under extruding in the same place?
What object are you printing?
Did you have the same issue with PTFE hot end?
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Obadiah King

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Dec 31, 2015, 6:21:12 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

I am using a .2mm layer height and speed is 40mm/s, and retraction is set at 45mm.  I have tried printing several objects, including the OK hand gcode.  There is not a pattern to when it will under extrude, on one print it did not start until the final layers but typically it will be midway through the print.  I do not have any issues with the PTFE hot end.  When the problem occurs the extruder gear slips (thumps), I am running the steel gear from Uncle Chucks.

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Danny Gentry

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Dec 31, 2015, 6:35:30 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

I hope that's your retraction speed and not retraction distance?

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Obadiah King

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Dec 31, 2015, 6:37:43 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Yes, sorry speed 45mm/s and the distance 4.5

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Jetguy

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Dec 31, 2015, 6:59:18 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Go to 2mm or less retraction.

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Obadiah King

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Dec 31, 2015, 7:06:42 PM12/31/15

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to WanHao Printer 3d

So would this mean that it is being retracted too far into the heat break?  I see that the ok gcode is set for 0.5mm is this a good setting or does it need to be closer to the 2mm mark?

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Danny Gentry

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Jan 1, 2016, 12:51:15 AM1/1/16

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to WanHao Printer 3d

Yes, it pulls it into the cold zone, causing the jam. I have good results around 1.9

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Jan 1, 2016, 2:08:16 PM1/1/16

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to WanHao Printer 3d

I just got the same Micro Swiss set, have the same issue - even when turning off retraction. It jams randomly causing the filament to grind for an instant - or for many layers. Then it randomly works again, or just stops printing half way. Each little micro jam leaves a little missing line on the print. You know when it's happening because the motor makes a tock sound where it's grinding the PLA. I've tried everything from auto tuning, going in and taking the thermistor out, checking wires, changing temperatures, changing print speeds, starting fresh in CURA.....everything. I've tried for three days so many things, I'm thinking the diameter of the hole in the tip is less than advertised at 0.4mm or the filament is jamming where the two hot end pieces screw into each other in the threaded channel. Oh, and I've tried with thermal paste, without the paste, tried inserting it in the cooling block at different heights, tried the atomic pull method, stuck an E-string up the end...I'm at a complete loss.

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Danny Gentry

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Jan 1, 2016, 5:36:07 PM1/1/16

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to WanHao Printer 3d

I hate you guys are having trouble with it. I can print at 100mm/s on the same printer without skipping, so I know it works. I was very liberal with the paste and I followed the directions here http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!mk10-kit-installation-instruction/lt5wg

I think the height in the cooling bar and in the hot block are important. Make sure the nozzle isn't bottomed out the hot block. Notice how it is turned all the way in then backed off 1/2 turn. Then thread the tube till it touched the nozzle, install in cooling bar, reassemble, preheat, then tighten nozzle.

I have heard others say they had to run a lot of filament through it (i.e. A long print job) before it started feeding smoothly without skipping. Not sure the logic there, but has been mentioned on other forums.

I wouldn't hesitate to contact micro Swiss if you continue to have the issue.

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mroek

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Jan 1, 2016, 5:50:19 PM1/1/16

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to WanHao Printer 3d

I'd also like to chime in that mine is also working perfectly, no issues. I just installed it as explained (but mine was deliverd without thermal paste, so I used some old Arctic Silver 2 that I had), and haven't touched it since. The longest print with it is probably 15-16 hours, all fine.

Danny, when you say you are printing at 100 mm/s, which layer height is that? I created a volumetric extrusion test in this post: https://groups.google.com/d/msg/wanhao-printer-3d/YMMUWTpzeCA/GK4be9v6AgAJ
As you can see, mine works up to 10 mm3/s (starts skipping in the 11 mm3/s section), which is around 70 mm/s with a layer height of 0.3 mm. Perhaps you could try that test on yours?


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Danny Gentry

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Jan 1, 2016, 6:58:24 PM1/1/16

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I was reading that post yesterday and plan on trying it out. I'll let you know the results. I almost always print at .2mm. Granted, I didn't do any long prints at 100mm/s.

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Jan 1, 2016, 7:12:10 PM1/1/16

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Increase your temp. I had to bump it almost 20C after changing to the all metal. Several other users reported the same thing. I am not seeing stringing or anything either. 

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Jan 1, 2016, 7:26:10 PM1/1/16

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 I did not increase my temps, I just used the same as with the originael setup.
Not saying that increasing temps doesn't fix the problem, just that I didn't have to.

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Danny Gentry

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Jan 1, 2016, 7:32:31 PM1/1/16

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I was already running slightly higher temps than most on PLA with the stock setup. I print at 215 with matter hackers and didn't change when I upgraded. Printing mostly Maker Geeks PETG lately at 250.

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Jan 1, 2016, 9:28:45 PM1/1/16

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Sours: https://groups.google.com/

Apparently systematic nozzle clogging

The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they do not have a Teflon liner that shield the filament of heat creep. From this article:

Jams and clogs are often from a combination of excessive heat and non-optimal material flow. This effect is worsened by poorly cooled all-metal hot ends, high torque extruder gears, small nozzles/layers, slow printing speeds, too thin first layer, and excessive retraction.

The bold faced text in the quote sums up what is causing this. A smaller gear requires more force/torque as the arm i.e. the radius is smaller.

The article describes what steps you could do to alleviate the problem. Of all the suggestions, "Minimize retraction", seems a possible candidate for you to look into considering the posted print settings. As this is a heat related problem it is advised to also increase your printing speeds, these are pretty low (30 mm/s for slow and 60 mm/s for normal printing) and also check the cooling of the "cold end" (the fan that cools the radiator fins). Also reduce the printing temperature, 210 °C is pretty high for PLA filament, personally I don't go over 200 °C (note that this depends on your filament, but most PLA brands can be printed in the 185 - 195 °C range).

You have a pretty large retraction specified. The Ultimaker default is 6.5 mm is considered to be large, but works perfectly for Ultimaker machines (read Bowden tube setup). In my Ultimaker 3E which uses all metal hotends, or, in my custom HyperCube Evolution, also Bowden, but with a lined hotend, 6.5 mm retraction works perfectly.

Please look into this answer and this answer. Both describe that the retraction performance is worse with all metal hotends. My experiences are exactly the same with metal hotends, at least the cheaper production ones (I tested cheap all metal hotends, but also ran into problems because of production and design errors, I have not tried the better quality heat breaks/throats yet).

Please lower the retraction setting considerably to see if it has an effect. The Monoprice Maker Select uses a direct drive. Direct drive extruders do not need a large retraction length setting. If the filament is hot in the throat (as there is no PTFE lining that in fact acts as an insulator), too large of a retraction may not be reversed when the filament cooles during the retraction.


I think you might be experiencing what is described in this question: "Extruder prints fine up until further down the print". This answer describes issues of the metal heat breaks.

To comment on your statement in comments above, I am not suggesting you should use a liner in your current extruder. I'm pointing out the differences. Metal hotends are just more tricky to operate regarding retraction and heat management.

$\endgroup$Sours: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7162/apparently-systematic-nozzle-clogging
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Final Thoughts

All Metal Hotends
The Definitive Troubleshooting Guide

All Metal Hotends Troubleshooting Guide

So we bought one of those fancy all metal hotends, got it installed and… now it can’t print more than 5 minutes before it clogs.

Instant buyers remorse has set in, should have paid attention to those negative reviews before making the purchase. We scour the internet for a potential fix, jumping from website to website desperately trying to figure out what’s wrong.

Let’s put down the pitchfork and extinguish the torches. Chances are, it’s more than likely our fault.

We didn’t sabotage it on purpose, but all metal isn’t quite so forgiving of mistakes. Don’t beat yourself up, a lack of consistent information for these products is often to blame. This hobby relies heavily on 3rd party advice and word of mouth, but that’s not always the most reliable source.

Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Overview

There are a lot of questions about All Metal Hotends, and the answers aren’t always clearly explained.
What are they? What brand should I choose? Will this one work for my 3D Printer?
In Chapter 1, we give a brief overview of the basics, covering what you should know when it’s time to upgrade the hotend.

Unless you’re shopping on Kickstarter (in which case, best of luck) most reputable brands are going to be a safe bet. Sure, nothing is perfect. Even the industry leaders can slip once in a while, but it’s far more likely that we just overlooked something simple.

Whether you purchase an E3D, Micro Swiss or low cost replica of these two, all metal hotends operate more or less the same.

Through out the Definitive Troubleshooting Guide, we’ll start with the most likely cause for problems and work through the list. Diving in to the slicer settings, assembly process, hardware components and more.

What is an All Metal Hotend?

If you have an all metal hotend in the shopping cart, but are on the fence after reading about other people’s problems, let’s start with what it is that we’re actually buying in the first place.

All metal hotends are designed to eliminate PTFE tubing inside of the heatbreak, that’s it. This tube starts to deteriorate somewhere around 250° Celsius and will release toxic fumes, meaning our stock hotend can only handle PLA and ABS filaments safely.

To print high temperature plastics like Nylon, Polycarbonate or HDPE, all metal is a must.

If you’re goal is to print PETG though, the reason most of us decide to upgrade, that can be somewhat of a grey area. On one hand, certain brands of filament can print as low as 230°, and that’s entirely doable with a basic PTFE hotend. In the long run however, it’s still a good idea to pick up an all metal hotend, where that lining will otherwise limit our options.

Are they Difficult to Use?

All metal hotends are not difficult, they are different.

Most hobbyist 3D Printers are bought for less than $300. To accommodate newcomers in the budget market, PTFE lined hotends have been widely adopted for their ease of use. They work great with PLA filament and are much more forgiving if something isn’t quite perfect.

These same machines are also manufactured exclusively in China, where quality control is an afterthought. Because all metal hotends must be precisely machined, something China doesn’t care much for, the defect rate would skyrocket.

So we purchase these upgrades aftermarket instead, and since they’re a niche product, there is far less understanding of the subtle differences in how they are meant to be used.

E3D V6 vs Micro Swiss Hotends

Let’s start with that one glaring question, which one is best?

The short answer… both.

E3D and Micro Swiss are the two premiere hotend manufacturers for 3D Printers. They have perfected their signature all metal designs through precision engineering, becoming the gold standards for quality and reliable performance. So what’s the difference?

e3d_v6_vs_micro_swiss_hotend

Micro Swiss specializes in drop-in replacements. Their hotends are built for specific 3D Printer models, utilizing many of the same original design choices. This ultimately means their products are a direct fit and simple to install on all supported machines.

E3D on the other hand takes a universal approach. Having standardized groove neck mounts, their signature V6 hotend can be used on practically any traditional FDM 3D printer. However, this frequently requires the use of a customized mounting solution for proper fitment.

What About Clone Hotends?

Many years ago, in the spirit of innovation, E3D open sourced their plans for the V6 Hotend design. Since then, cheap replicas from China have flooded the markets, available for just a fraction of the price. No brand or product is safe, everything has been copied.

Okay, you didn’t come here for a history lesson, so what about clone hotends?

Ethics aside, clone hotends are a fantastic budget option. In the hotend market, genuine products are expensive and rightfully so, but plenty of makers can’t just shell out $60 on a whim. These replicas are often extremely close to the real thing, but cost the same as a meal from McDonalds.

The biggest strike against clone hotends is again China’s apathy towards quality control. While plenty of them are flawless, these products have developed quite a bad reputation. Why? Because they have no qualms shipping out defective junk that should never see the light of day.

In Chapter 4: All Metal Hotend Hardware, we will look at parts that may be flawed on clone hotends and how to fix or replace them.

Chapter 2: Slicer Settings

In this chapter, we’ll cover the Slicer Settings. Small changes to your existing profile that are a must for reliable prints.
These adjustments can often go overlooked, but make a huge difference that will make or break your experience.
Before you start looking elsewhere for the cause of problems, spend a few minutes and rule out your settings first.

Remember when I mentioned that all metal hotends aren’t forgiving? I was mainly referring to the slicer settings.

Reusing that same old profile that worked before will guarantee problems. Sure, almost all of it is still perfectly tuned for the machine, but there are a couple settings that absolutely need to be tweaked.

Retraction Distance

Above all else, Retraction Distance is hands down the #1 cause of clogs on all metal hotends. In most cases, this value should be reduced to at least 50% of the original amount, if not more.

Every time the extruder retracts filament, it’s yanking molten hot plastic back in to the hotend. When it gets pulled too far, it sticks to the inside of the nozzle and plastic starts to build up. Eventually we hear the dreaded clicking sound, when the extruder can no longer push more filament out.

Bowden Extruders
Recommended Value: 3.5mm

Bowden extruders are the most common on modern machines, mounted to the 3D printer’s frame and positioned remotely from the hotend. As these push/pull filament over a distance, retraction values are set higher than Direct Drive, often between 3mm and 4mm.

Direct Drive Extruders
Recommended Value: 0.8mm

Direct Drive extruders are mounted directly above the hotend, feeding filament down a short distance. Retraction distance can range between 0.5mm and 1.0mm.

For best practice, start with retraction distance at the low end and raise it as needed. Too little retraction just causes stringing between walls, too much will cause the hotend to clog.

Printing Temperature

All metal hotends are great for high temperature materials like PETG or Nylon, but we still want to use PLA as well. Unfortunately making the switch back is where many users run in to trouble.

PLA filament always prints hotter on all metal hotends. A spool’s label suggests a wide temperature range of 30° or more for a reason, it prints at different levels of heat depending on the hardware.

As a general rule of thumb, when using PLA on an all metal hotend, bump the temperature anywhere from +10 to +15° Celsius. Filament that printed well at 200° C on the stock hotend should see best results around 210° C on all metal.

Chapter 3: Assembling the All Metal Hotend

Building the hotend is quite straight forward, we have plenty of guides and videos to walk us through the process.
Unfortunately there are a few mistakes that can ruin all of that hard work, and these happen to be the bits that most articles forget to mention.
Before we get stuck in some endless loop of re-assembling the hotend, let’s check a few things that may be the cause.

Some all metal hotends come pre-built and ready to use, others send you a box of parts with assembly instructions. Regardless, don’t get impatient and skim the steps. Those little details can save us a lot of trouble once we’re ready to print.

Heat Tighten the Nozzle

The absolute most important step on any hotend installation, all metal or otherwise, is to heat tighten the nozzle.

Inside of the heater block, the heatbreak and nozzle meet in the middle. During the assembly process, we screw these in until they bottom out, but metal will expand/contract with temperature changes. It may feel nice and snug at room temperature, but once the hotend reaches an excess of 200° Celsius, heat expands the metal and creates a gap where filament can leak out.

For this reason, we must preheat the hotend after assembly and tighten the nozzle once more before use.

  • Set the nozzle temperature to 250° Celsius.
  • Wait 60 seconds after it reaches temperature for it to stabilize.
  • Grip the heater block with an adjustable wrench and gently tighten the nozzle with a spanner or socket wrench.
  • Be careful not to over torque the nozzle, the threads can break off inside of the block.

This will close up the internal gap between heatbreak and nozzle, sealing off the small separation where filament can otherwise leak out and cause clogs.

Seat the Bowden Tubing

On bowden setups, white PTFE tubing runs from the extruder to the hotend, acting as a filament guide. Depending on which hotend we’re using, this tube will slide in to the heatsink and stop once it reaches the heatbreak.

In some cases however, there’s a bit of resistance when inserting the PTFE tube, and we mistakenly assume that it’s been firmly seated. 

Just as gaps between the heatbreak and nozzle are bad for the hotend, space between the bowden tube and heatbreak are problematic in the cold end. Without a strict path to feed through, the filament can bend and catch, causing jams and other unexpected issues.

  • When cutting PTFE tubing, make sure that the ends are perfectly straight.
  • Put filament inside of the tube before cutting to help retain the shape and avoid deformation.
  • Firmly push the tube in to the hotend to ensure that it’s seated flush against the heatbreak.

With filament constantly moving back and fourth, there is still a good chance a quick retract could pull it loose. For this reason, once the bowden tube is seated, embedded collets are used to lock it in place. Make sure this is installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

When we purchase a genuine hotend from a reputable company, it’s reasonably safe to assume that the hardware isn’t defective. Precision machining and tight quality control are part of that hefty $60+ dollar price tag.

Replicas (or clones) on the other hand are sometimes a crap shoot. Some vendors do QC checks on these, most do not.

Related: How to Upgrade an E3D V6 Clone

In exchange for saving us a nice chunk of change, we’re assuming that responsibility ourselves. Not necessarily a bad thing, but there are a few components we should inspect when that low cost, all metal hotend isn’t working quite like it should.

Heatbreak

When we upgrade to an all metal hotend, the heatbreak (a.k.a. throat) is what we’re ultimately looking to replace. It’s the absolute most important part of the entire assembly, and if it’s not machined correctly, that can create a whole mess of problems for us.

By definition, heatbreak means a sudden drop in heat… at least according to Urban Dictionary. In 3D Printing, it refers to the thin metal tube where filament feeds in to the hotend, melting as it reaches the nozzle and transitions from cold to hot.

All Metal Hotend Heatbreak Diagram

Ideally, we want a heatbreak with low thermal conductivity (it stays cold) and a smooth finish on the inside surface. We can compensate for the former with better cooling, and we’ll talk about that in the next section, but a polished inner bore makes a world of difference.

Unfortunately polishing metal takes time, and considering the rock bottom price of clone hotends, it’s simply not done. They are instead reamed at the factory, which is usable but not perfect by any stretch.

On the upside, we can polish the heatbreak they send us to save money, or buy an aftermarket heatbreak that’s ready to go. A polished Titanium V6 Heatbreak can be had online for $12, and the difference is night and day.

Checking the Heatbreak
Hold the heatbreak up to a bright light and look inside of the tube for imperfections. Rough tooling marks left on the inner walls can cause friction as the filament slides through the channel, affecting the overall performance and eventually causing clogs.

Cooling Fan

The average person might see the cooling fan spinning and assume that everything is hunky-dory, but inadequate airflow can be just as detrimental to reliable performance. In fact, fans don’t take blame nearly as often as the heatbreaks do, yet they are far more likely to be the culprit behind clogs.

In a perfect world, the heatbreak would stay nice and cold when the nozzle was heated, but metal to metal contact transfers that heat upwards. Since that can prematurely melt the filament, we rely on the cooling fan to keep it cold instead.

All Metal Hotend Cooling Fan Diagram

To give this some context, the genuine E3D V6 features a 30mm dual ball bearing fan that puts out around 4.6 CFM (cubic feet/minute). In contrast, the average V6 clone fan averages about half that, somewhere around 2.8 CFM.

That’s not necessarily a problem, but doesn’t leave much wiggle room in the event of unexpected fluctuations.

For example, if the hotend fan is plugged in to/powered from the board, which almost every one is these days, it may not be getting the full voltage it needs. Using a Petsfang with a couple of big 50mm blower fans to cool your parts? That could impede the output even further.

The official E3D V6 documentation suggests wiring the hotend fan directly to the power supply, which helps bypass potential problems. This may be overkill with a proper high powered fan, but for those generics we get on V6 clones, it’s a temporary option until we can upgrade the part.

Checking the Fan
Feel the heatsink fins during a print job. Even those near the bottom (closest to the heater block) should remain completely cool to the touch. If the heatsink fins are reaching warm or even hot temperatures during use, the cooling fan is not providing sufficient cooling.

Nozzle

Remember that cheap 10 pack of nozzles we bought on Amazon? No one in that factory bothered to inspect each one for defects.

Sure, it was a great deal and chances are they work just fine, but we’re buying quantity instead of quality. Unless we’re ready to fork out the $15 for a premium nozzle, it’s probably not a bad idea to check before using them on our machine.

If that tiny hole isn’t a perfect circle, you could spend anywhere from hours to days trying to hunt down the culprit.

All Metal Hotend Brass Nozzle Diagram

There are two exceptions, Micro Swiss and E3D. Micro Swiss is a US based business that manufactures their products in house with a Swiss lathe. E3D manufactures overseas in China, but they have some poor sap on the team checking this stuff so we don’t have to.

Checking the Nozzle
Just as we did with the heatbreak, hold the nozzle up to a light and look inside of the nozzle for imperfections. Make sure there aren’t any unusual deformations, especially around the hole where the filament will be extruded.

Chapter 5: Calibration and Tuning

Countless hours are spent tweaking settings, tightening belts and lubricating bearings, but we leave thousands of the firmware variables untouched.
This cookie cutter template works well enough for the stock machine, but has plenty of room for improvements, especially when we start upgrading parts like the hotend.
In this chapter, we’ll look at how to calibrate and tune the temperature readings, extruder feed rate and more.

The slicer settings are updated. Every single component has been exceptionally well made. We even carefully assembled the hotend to make sure it’s absolutely perfect, but we’re still losing prints and our sanity isn’t far behind.

Sometimes it’s the last thing we would ever think to check, and that usually boils down to calibration and tuning.

While this section looks at somewhat less likely culprits, they are by no means unimportant. In fact, these should be done any time significant changes are made to the 3D Printer’s hardware.

PID Tuning

Any time that we make changes to our hotend hardware, it’s always a good idea to perform a PID Tune afterwards.

PID Tuning is an adaptive process, calculating the best values for the heating element based on what components are currently installed. When these settings are correct, the 3D Printer is able to accurately reach and maintain our desired printing temperatures.

“If the temperature ramps up quickly and slows as it approaches the target temperature, or swings by a few degrees to either side of the target temperature, then the PID values are incorrect.”

PID Tuning – RepRap.org/wiki

Before we start asking other owners what their P.I.D. values are set to, it’s important to note these are machine specific.

Everything from the thermistor we use to environmental factors (ceiling fans, air conditioning, etc) can change these numbers. As such, each machine will always have a completely unique set of values for Kp, Ki and Kd.

How to PID Tune

As with most things, there are a dozen different ways to tackle this task. Depending on the 3D Printer you have, and the firmware that it uses, the steps may in fact need a slightly different approach.

For certain 3D Printers like the Monoprice Maker Select and Wanhao Duplicator i3, we can even just run a G-Code file that automates the process for us. In most cases however, if nothing else, it’s good to experience the manual steps so we better understand what is happening. To provide a gist of the overall process…

  • Download a program like Repetier Host or Pronterface that can send commands
  • Connect your 3D Printer to the computer via USB cable
  • Send the command M303 E0 S(250) replacing 250 with your desired printing temperature
  • When finished, note the Kp, Ki and Kd values shown in the console
  • Send the command M301 H1 P(KpValue) I(KiValue) D(KdValue) to set these new values
  • Send the command M500 to store the values in memory

The M303 command switches the 3D Printer in to auto tune mode, then preheats up to the specified temperature. It will perform a series of cycles, heating up and cooling down the hotend until it determines what works best.

Ideally, during the PID tuning process, we should represent our standard printing environment as closely as possible. This means turning on the parts cooling fan if you use it, and anything else that may affect the normal temperature readings.

Calibrate E-Steps

It’s rare that the E-Steps (or Extruder Steps) would be directly responsible for hotend problems, they pertain more to the overall quality of prints. In some cases however, since the E-Steps control how much filament is pushed in to the hotend, severe over-extrusion could lead to clogs.

Furthermore, as we mentioned above, these hardware changes do affect how the hotend works. When there is no longer a PTFE liner inside of the heatbreak, the flow rate can be altered quite a bit.

All things considered, re-calibrating the E-Steps after upgrading to an all metal hotend is never a bad idea, problems or not.

How to Calibrate the Extruder Steps

With so many exciting filaments available to us, it’s a shame we have to upgrade to take advantage of them. PLA is of course a great material, but there is so much more we can do with plastics that are durable, flexible or just plain beautiful.

Cutting edge 3D Printer technology is widely utilized in high end machines, but the budget market operates on the idea of “stick with what works”.

If you’re considering an All Metal Hotend, or struggling to make one work, don’t give up and set it aside. It’s not always easy to break from what we already know to learn something new, but in the long run, you’ll be glad you gave it the chance.

A huge thank you to Kieral.art for the amazing artwork used throughout this guide.

Sours: https://letsprint3d.net/all-metal-hotends-troubleshooting-guide/

Everything is all right. The old woman left. I closed the door.

Hotend clogging swiss micro

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5 Tips - How to Prevent Clogging of Your 3D Printer

Oliphant was not there. Only the wind in the garden swayed the trees. The count sank back onto the pillow and sank back into oblivion. The Chevalier quietly climbed out from under the bed, put on his trousers and silently slipped out the window. It was quiet in the brightening sky, stars disappearing one after another.

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