Sick Innovations: Multi “Fully” Adjustable Clip-ons
Test Rider: Josh Borne
Photography: Josh Borne
Company: Sick Innovations
Product: 50mm Sick Innovations Multi (fully) Adjustable Clip-ons, 7 Degree Sweep
Retail Price: $249.99
Test Bike: 2003 Kawasaki ZX6rr (636); Modified Full Fairing set up
- Front Forks: 2005 Kawasaki ZX6r (636)
- Upper Triple: Stock, flipped and cut down
- Handbrake: Magura 16mm
- Clutch Perch: RSC EZ-pull clutch
- Front Brake Master: 2003 stock Kawasaki ZX6rr master cylinder
- Extra: HEL steel braided brake lines, stock clutch and throttle cables
It has been about a month since I was able to add the fully adjustable SI Clip-ons to the Borne Freestyle ZX6rr. The first chance of riding with the new clip-ons was a weekend of shows at the Houston World of Wheels Car Show. I previously had SI Front and Side Mount clip-ons as well as stock Kawasaki clip-ons, and I feel I can give good comparative information between all the above.
In the past I have transferred from stock “flipped” Kawasaki clip-ons, to Front Mount SI clip-ons, to Side Mount SI clip-ons and now recently to the new Multi-Adjustable SI clip-ons. To see information about the Side and Front Mount SI clip-ons, please check here. The concept of the Multi Adjustable clip-on is by far the greatest ideas any company has ever came up with. Multi “fully” adjustable really means FULLY adjustable. From width, to height, to angle, to clip-on placement…these clip-ons can fit any motorcycle and any rider comfortably. They are available in 0-degree and 7-degree clip-on sweep applications. I prefer the higher rise and went with the 7-degree option.
The HEL stainless steel lines used with the Side Mount SI clip-ons still worked as well as the stock clutch cable and stock throttle cables. Depending upon placement and adjustment, certain applications may need extra long brake lines and/or clutch and throttle cables. The one thing I had to change is how the throttle cables were routed. Rather than out of the housing toward the front of the motorcycle and down to the left under the upper stay and lower triple tree, I change the path to have the cables come out of the housing toward the ground and behind the right fork tube. I ran my HEL stainless brake line through the inside of the forks, underneath the lower triple. The stock Kawasaki clutch cable is fairly long, and I routed it all the way around the forks and back to the clutch cover. Already having the upper modified for the previous Side Mount SI clip-ons, I did not have to make any body adjustments to allow the Multi Adjustable clip-ons to fit.
During the first day of riding, it did not take much to get used to at all. I did, however, make a few small adjustments throughout the day to find “my” perfect setting. That is one of the greatest attributes of the Multi Adjustable clip-ons…they can fit pretty much any rider and any application. The rider just needs to figure out what setting is best for them. Whether you prefer a wide or narrow setting, a high or low setting, a pushed out or pulled in setting, these clip-ons can deliver. My personal setting with the clip-ons has highly increased my stoppie control and extremely excelled my tank circle pull through capability. They are the greatest mixture of dirtbike bars and clip-ons available. The Multi Adjustable clip-ons give the best attributes of both worlds without the limitations of either.
The only downfall I noticed with the Multi Adjustable clip-ons is with the installation. It is difficult to get the settings on the right side to match up with the left side. There is limited markings on the individual pieces to show exactly where they are placed at with respect to other pieces. The clip-ons greatest attribute can be its greatest downfall. There is so much adjustment, it is difficult to keep track of what needs adjusted to equilize both sides. I talked to Ian about my installation issues and he said he would take care of the problem by adding setting marks to each piece for a small additional fee. With this issue resolved, these clip-ons are as close to perfection as one can get.
My overall opinion, the Sick Innovations Multi Adjustable Clip-ons are one of the best upgrades I’ve put on my Kawasaki. I truly believe they are a great upgrade for any freestyle rider, racer, or everyday commuter. The benefits of the Multi Adjustable clip-ons are endless. They can give a performance edge to any freestyle rider or racer and can also give comfort to any daily or long distance rider. Whether you are tall or short, prefer high dirt bike position or the low superbike feel, Sick Innovations has you covered.
-Durable mounts made of CNC machined 6061 Aircraft Aluminum
-Available in zero degree and seven degree sweep angles
-Quickly adjustable from an upward sweep angle, to a downward sweep angle
-Adjustable height, clip-on placement, clip-on angle, and bar width
-Great for comfort and performance
-Compatible for just about any size rider
-Compatible for streetfighter and full fairing applications
-Beneficial for stoppie positioning and tank trick pull throughs
-Variety of bar ends available
-Can be difficult to perfect and match side to side placement during installation
-May possibly need to replace cables or brake lines depending on adjustment
Please check out their extensive online inventory at, www.sickinnovations.com.
Ordering Information: www.sickinnovations.com ; www.naarden.biz
10-27-2010, 12:03 PM#1
Sick Innovations Billet Side mount Clip Ons, 7 degree up 50mm
Sick Innovations Billet Side mount clip ons, 50mm. 7 degree up slope.
100$ plus shipping if you require them shipped.
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Motorcycles: that go up the mountains
The right way to stunt an f4i :p
Advantages of F4i as a stunt bike
Frames are very strong
Hondas have a long lasting engine
Lots of stunt parts available
Easy to find, F4i was made from 2001-2006
Disadvantages of F4i as a stunt bike
Has an engine bog, usually needs bigger sprockets to compensate, sometimes fixable when syncing the throttle bodies.
Stock Forks are small 43mm, and are not Inverted.
Stock front brakes calipers are Standard Mount not Radial.
The tail usually squats and is very squishy.
2003 F4i went to a banana seat that looks stupid
Must have to Begin Stunting the F4i:
Engine Cage: This will Protect the Bike when you wreck
*Recommended: Sick Innovations F4i Crash Cage
Sprocket and Chain: The Larger the Rear Sprocket the easier it will be to clutch it up into a wheelie but will reduce your overall top speed.
*Recommended: Vortex Rear Sprocket , EK Chain
HandBrake: Allows you to use the Rear Brake with out running your foot on the front right peg (Staggered Wheelie). Allows you to do High Chair Wheelies, 50/50, Seat Stander, etc
*Recommended: Full Throttle HandBrake Adapter
Extra Idle Adjuster: When Stunting You want your idle up around 3000RPM and easy to adjust up and down for different Tricks
Clip-Ons: Stock clip on are not big enough to hold hand brake, also they easily bend and cant be turned out to a straighter position.
*Recommended: Wood Craft ReplaceMent Clip Ons
Dirtbike bars: also an option to your controls is mounting dirtbike bars, gives you comfortable riding position and wider grip for maneuvering.
*Recommended: Naarden Dirtbar Clamps , Vortex Dirtbike Bars
Steering Damper /Stabilizer: If you are going to do any kind of stoppies or christs, this is a mandatory item to stabilize the front end from giving you a nasty tank slapper. Many Riders have went down from this!
*Recommended: Scotts Steering Stabilizer , or GPR
Advanced F4i Stunting Parts:
Radial Masters: Radial master cylinders give you a better feel to your braking, Brembo or Magura are the popular choices for stunting.
*Recommended: Brembo 16x18
Brembo 15ml Reservoirs: Smaller and more compact, out of the way reservoirs.
*Recommended: Brembo 15ml Stunt Reservoirs
Round Bar / 12Bar: Protects your tail and subframe when scraping 12oclock.
*Recommended: Sick Innovations F4i Round Bar
Rearsets: Stock Rearsets are cast and very weak, tend to bend into the subframe.
*Recommended: WoodCraft CFM F4i Rearsets
Dual Caliper Bracket: Separating Your rear brake and hand brake makes bleeding easier, and also gives you a back up if one where to fail or boil from over use.
*Recommended: Full Throttle Dual Caliper Bracket
Subframe Cage: the subframe mount bars will begin to fold in and twist. Also adds to another protection point in a crash to your tail. larger peg models are available also.
*Recommended: Sick Innovations F4i Subframe Cage
Fairing Stay: Stock Piece breaks and bends very easily, doesnt hold the headlights and leaves little room for extra hand brake reservoirs.
*Recommended: Naarden Super Mega Pro Upper Fairing Stay
Gas Cap: Using your key to open your tank gives a good chance your might bend or break it off.
*Recommended: Vortex Racing Cap
Steel Braided Brake Lines: factory rubber lines deteriorate and flex when putting pressure on them. As the warm up it gets worse.
*Recommended: Speigler Stainless Steel Braided Lines
Tail Saver: F4i tail fairings always break at the corners when doing seat standers, tails are very hard to find, so you need to protect it.
*Recommended: Sick Innovations F4i Tail Saver
Easy Pull Lever: Makes one finger Clutching very easy.
*Recommended: MSR Easy Pull
Stick on tank Pad: Gives you a raised lip on the back side of the tank to aid in sit down circle wheelies.
*Recommended: Naarden Stick On Tank Dent Pad
Triple Clamp: Hohey makes a Lower clamping position triple clamp with holes for dirtbike bar mounts
*Recommended: Hohey F4i triple clamp
Maintenance Items for F4i : New Rotors: EBC, Galfer, Braking, ABM
Brake Fluid: Motul, Maxima, Bel-Ray
*Recommended: Motul RBF 660
Brake Pads: EBC, Braking Galfer, Carbon Lorraine, DP, Vesrah
*Recommended: EBC Extreme Pro
Saftey Plyers: Self Clamping and spinning for Safety wire.
*Recommended: WPS Self Clamping Plyers
Engine Coolant: Motul "MoCool" , Engine Ice
*Recommended: Motul MoCool Coolant
Oil: Motul, Spectro, Bel-Ray
*Recommended: Motul 5100 Ester/Synthetic Engine Oil
Tires: Michelin, Pirelli, Metzler, Avon, Bridgestone,
*Recommended: Michelin Pilot Powers
Tricks to Setting Up F4i:
-Convert the Front End to Inverted Forks from 600RR, 929, and 954
-Spacer on the Rear Shock to Raise rear seat height
-Tape up one of the intake sides to reduce engine bog.
-Denting Tank , Otown or Full Dent
-Relocating Your Key under subframe so you dont break it off.
-Toggle Switch for the Fan
-Cut a Hole in the Rear Seat if you have a Round Bar
-Rotate the engine kill button so your leg doesnt hit it and kill the bike, some people pin it but when you relocate the key and for some reason you lose control of the bike someone else wont be able to to turn the bike off.
-Use two large Black AC Zipties to hold the radiator up tight, eventually the top tabs will rip off.
- Clean Air Mod to keep oil from going into the airbox
F4i Bike Specifics:
Engine 599 cc (36.6 cu in) DOHC four valves per cylinder water cooled inline-four
Bore / Stroke 67.0 × 42.5 mm (2.64 × 1.67 in)
Compression ratio 12:1
Top speed 156 mph (251 km/h)
Power 81 kW (109 hp) @ 12500 rpm, 90.1 hp (67.2 kW) at rear wheel
Torque 63 N·m (46 ft·lbf) @ 10000 rpm, 40.2 ft·lb (54.5 N·m) at rear wheel
Ignition type CDI
Transmission Wet clutch, 6-speed, chain drive
Frame type Aluminum twin-spar, box-section
Rake, Trail 24.0°, 96 mm (3.8 in)
Wheelbase 1,390 mm (55 in)
Seat height 805 mm (31.7 in)
Weight 370 lb (170 kg) (dry), 440 lb (200 kg) (wet)
Fuel capacity 4.8 US gallons (18 l; 4.0 imp gal)
Fuel consumption 36.7 mpg-US (6.41 L/100 km; 44.1 mpg-imp)
BARF-istan Pakistan Tour Videos 2013 - 2014 - 2015 (1-2) - 2016
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San Francisco to Pakistan 25,000 miles on a CBR600F4i - BARF Ride Report
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Clip ons innovations sick
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