
ONLINE STORE
KLX250 Carb Problem

- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 2,034
- Reaction score
- 2
- Location
- Georgetown,TX.
- First Name
- Marc
- Last Name
- Briggs
2-6 FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor
Idle Speed Inspection
• Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.
• With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to both sides.
* l f handlebar movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may
be improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or it may be damaged.
Be sure to correct any of these conditions before riding (see Cable,
Wire and Hose Routing in the General Information chapter).
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed, or damaged
cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
• Check idle speed.
* F o r KLX250D, adjust as needed.
KLX250E:
Idle Speed 1300 ± 100 r/min (rpm)
* F o r KLX250E, if the idle speed is out of the specified range, adjust it.
Idle Speed Adjustment
• Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.
• First turn in the pilot screw [A] until it seats lightly, and back it out to
the specifications(see Service Data).
• For KLX250D, turn the idle adjusting screw [B] to obtain the desired
idle speed. If no idle is preferred, turn out the screw until the engine
stops.
• For KLX250E, turn the adjusting screw [B] until the idle speed is
correct.
OOpen and close the throttle a few times to make sure that the idle
speed is as desired or within the specified range. Readjust if necessary.
* l f the engine idle is still not stable, adjust the pilot screw to obtain the
proper idle speed using the pilot screw adjuster [ A ] .
Special Tool - Pilot Screw Adjuster, A: 57001-1239
OTurn in the pilot screw fully but not tightly, and then back it out the
specified turns.
Pilot Screw Setting
KLX250D:
1 1/2 ± 1/4
KLX250E:
1 7/8 ± 1/4
(IT)(NL) 2 3/8, (AR)(ST) 1 1/4
Operation with an improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed, or
damaged cable could result in an unsafe riding condition.
To avoid a serious burn, never touch a hot engine or an exhaust pipe
during carburetor adjustment.
• Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure that the idle
speed does not change. Readjust if necessary.
Carburetor diagram 250 klx

Description | Part number | Qty |
---|



































Kawasaki KLX250 1993 CARBURETOR
220AA0408
Part Diagram Ref: 220

EUR 0.14
220AA0414
Part Diagram Ref: 220A

EUR 1.55
Part Diagram Ref: 11044
EUR 33.10
Part Diagram Ref: 13091
EUR 15.38
Part Diagram Ref: 13270
Arfgitnlst
EUR 15.91
160051065
Part Diagram Ref: 14041
EUR 36.97
Part Diagram Ref: 15001
Part Diagram Ref: 15001a
Part Diagram Ref: 15001b
Part Diagram Ref: 15001c
Part Diagram Ref: 16007

EUR 12.57
Part Diagram Ref: 16009
Part Diagram Ref: 16009a
Gritnlnr
EUR 18.13
Part Diagram Ref: 16014
EUR 9.75
Part Diagram Ref: 16016
EUR 26.20
Part Diagram Ref: 16017
Gritnlnr
EUR 24.15
Part Diagram Ref: 16017b

Arfgst
EUR 28.45
Part Diagram Ref: 16021
EUR 73.13
Part Diagram Ref: 16030

EUR 28.10
Part Diagram Ref: 16031

EUR 29.93
Part Diagram Ref: 16044

EUR 2.75
Part Diagram Ref: 43028
Fggritnlnr
EUR 117.25
Part Diagram Ref: 43028a
Part Diagram Ref: 92005
Arfgitnlst
EUR 6.23
Part Diagram Ref: 92009
EUR 3.17
Part Diagram Ref: 92009a

EUR 4.86
920091705
Part Diagram Ref: 92009b

Arfgitnlst
EUR 1.62
Part Diagram Ref: 92022

EUR 1.83
Part Diagram Ref: 92022a
EUR 2.29
Part Diagram Ref: 92037
EUR 2.50
920431148
Part Diagram Ref: 92043
EUR 3.84
Part Diagram Ref: 92055

EUR 1.80
Part Diagram Ref: 92055a

EUR 9.37
Part Diagram Ref: 92055b
Fg
EUR 2.29
920591748
Part Diagram Ref: 92059
EUR 11.83
Part Diagram Ref: 92059a
EUR 12.11
Part Diagram Ref: 92059b
Grnr
EUR 16.15
Part Diagram Ref: 92063

EUR 7.08
Part Diagram Ref: 92063a
EUR 7.08
Part Diagram Ref: 92063b
EUR 7.08
Part Diagram Ref: 92063c
EUR 7.08
Part Diagram Ref: 92063d
EUR 7.08
Part Diagram Ref: 92064

EUR 8.66
Part Diagram Ref: 92066

Arst
EUR 2.29
Part Diagram Ref: 92081
EUR 2.46
Part Diagram Ref: 92081a
EUR 2.58
Part Diagram Ref: 92144
EUR 11.59
Part Diagram Ref: 92190
Fg
EUR 1.87
Part Diagram Ref: 92190a
Aritnlst
EUR 3.91
Part Diagram Ref: 92190b
EUR 11.48
Similar news:
- Atv vin check
- Today cast and crew
- Enterprise plumbing richardson tx
- Impact wrench extension bar
- Ford f150 tailgate panel
- Sonic boom tails
- Paranormal shows on tubi


Removal:
1. Turn off the fuel petcock on the fuel tank
2. Place a container under the fuel drain hose. That is the hose which leads from the fuel drain screw to just in front of the rear wheel.
3. Open drain screw, located on the bottom right side of the carb (on the float bowl) and allow all of the fuel to drain from the carb.
4. Remove the fuel line from the left side of the carb (black rubber line from the fuel tank)
5. Remove the throttle cables, one screw holds the bracket in place.
6. Carefully unscrew the plastic choke cable nut from the left side of the carburetor. This is where the choke cable screws into the carb. The plastic nut is very fragile so be careful!
7. Loosen the clamp on the front side of the carb holding it to the engine.
8. Remove the rear carb to airbox tube
OK now you should have the carb out of the bike and holding it in your hands. Next step is tearing it down while being very careful not to lose or damage anything in the process.

1. Remove the four screws on the plastic piece on the top of the carb. Underneath there should be a diaphragm, spring, slide, needle and white piece of plastic. Make a mental note of the order of those parts (slide, needle, white plastic piece, spring) and remove them. Be careful not to tear the rubber diaphragm.
2. Remove the float bowl. That is the metal bowl on the bottom of the carb, held in place with four screws. Be careful when removing it as the float and needle valve can fall out. Make a note of the position of the float and needle and remove them.
3. Next step is to unscrew the main and pilot jets from the carb body. (see diagram above for their location)
Pilot Screw Info:
The KLR's carb has a pilot mixture screw which controls the amount of fuel that enters the engine while at idle. However to stop owners from fiddling with it Kawasaki covered the screw with a small tin cap. The only way to get to this screw is to carefully drill a small hole in the tin cap and then pry it off with a small screw driver. The utmost care must be taken so you don't screw all of the way through to the pilot screw itself. Once the screw is accessible then you can remove it. There should be an o-ring, washer, and spring on the end of it, note their order and set them to the side.
Cleaning:
Thats about all you need to disassemble. Wasn't that hard was it? Now its time to clean everything. Just about everyone has their own way of doing this but what we suggest is buying a few bottles of carb cleaner (the kind you pour in your car's fuel tank) and a couple cans of spray type carb cleaner that have the small plastic tubes on them. Fill a small container with the carb cleaner (bottle type) and soak all of the metal parts in it, including the carburetor body. Note: Do not use either carb cleaner on any plastic or rubber parts, it'll eat them. What you're trying to accomplish is the removal of all varnish from inside the carb body, and jets. After they've soaked for a couple of hours its time to spray out all of the small passages in the carb body, and the tiny holes in jets with the spray type carb cleaner and then follow it up with a blast of compressed air. You're trying to make sure there is nothing clogging up those small holes, you leave one grain of sand behind and you'll be doing this again so be diligent! By this point you should have a sparkling clean carburetor, all that is left to do is reassemble everything.
Reassembly:
There isn't much to say here, just reassemble everything in the reverse order you took it apart. When the time comes to re-install the pilot screw make sure the o-ring, washer, and spring are in place and screw it in all of the way and back out two full turns. (further adjustment may be needed but this is a good starting point) When you re-install the slide components be careful not to pinch or tear the rubber diaphragm.

While you have the carb apart and cleaned this is the perfect time to check the float height adjustment. Simply install the float and needle valve onto the carb body and hold it as shown in the diagram to the left. You want the needle to be lying on its seat but not pushed down. To check for proper adjustment measure from the float bowl mating surface, and the top of the float. (4) The adjustment should be 17mm. If you find its not 17mm then you correct it by ever so slightly bending the float bowl tang with a pair of needle nose pliers. (see arrow in this picture) Small adjustment result in big changes in the float height, so go easy. Once you've got it to 17mm you're all set.
Thats it! Now re-install the carb back in the bike and you're good to go!
Image Sources: Gadjetjq.com- KLR650.net- Kawasaki.com
Note: The top image is of a CVK40. While it is a different carburetor than the CVK34 in the KLR 250 their layouts are almost identical.