Jewelry box design plans

Jewelry box design plans DEFAULT

American Furniture Design - Woodworking Project Paper Plan to Build Walnut Flame Crotch and English Black Walnut Jewelry Boxes, AFD205

You can make a pair of jewelry boxes with this set of plans.
First, try a striking ladies jewelry box with a divided storage tray on top and large storage area below. Then make a men’s jewelry box featuring a divided removable tray and lower storage area.

  • Ladies' Jewelry Box Size: 20" long by 10" deep by 7-1/2" high.
  • Men's Jewelry Box Size: 16-1/2" long by 8-1/2" deep by 5" high.
  • Skill level: Beginner/Intermediate

Shipping / Billing Information

This product ships direct from the manufacturer:

  • Your order will ship from Canada and will take approximately 14-21 business days for delivery.
  • There will be a Flat Rate Shipping charge of $4.00 for this plan.
  • This product is considered special order. Your account will be charged when you place your order.
  • Express or overnight shipping is not available for this product.

Return Information

Contact Woodcraft Customer Service at 800-535-4482 for return assistance. Authorization required prior to returns.

If purchased at a Woodcraft Store, please return the item directly to the store where your purchase was made.

Warranty Information

If you are not completely satisfied with your purchase, return it within 10 days with your original invoice and we will gladly replace the plan, give you credit, or refund your money, whichever you prefer. Contact Woodcraft Supply customer service @ 1-800-535-4482 for details.


Select the Wood

treasured wood jewelry box

Make a big splash with a small piece of rare wood.

By Tom Caspar and Jon Stumbras

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker March 2005, issue #113.

I’ll bet somewhere in the dark recesses of your shop you’ve squirreled away a small piece of special wood, just waiting for the right project. No doubt you’ve saved it to become the centerpiece of something well-crafted, small in scale and novel in design. This jewelry box is the perfect project to showcase that dusty board.

You’ll need very little wood to make this box. The star of the show is clearly the lid’s center panel. When you open the lid, you also see the bottom side of this fabulous piece. I used spalted big-leaf maple (see “Spalted Wood,” below), but you can use any piece of wood that has a fabulous curl, wild burl or unusual bird’s-eye pattern.

For the rest of the exterior, it’s best to choose a rich but understated wood, so as not to detract from the panel. I chose mahogany for its warm color and lack of prominent grain. Walnut or cherry would also work well. If you’re conservative about cutting, you can get all the parts from a rough 4/4 or 5/4 board that’s 5-1/2 in. wide and 4 ft. long.

For the interior trays, you’ll need a little 1/4-in. plywood and some 1/8-in.-thick solid wood that looks elegant, such as rosewood. I chose cocobolo.

spalted wood

What is spalted wood?

Spalted wood is just a fancy name for partly decayed wood. Its spectacular colors come from different colonies of fungus, which start the decay process. Black lines between the colors are actually barrier walls set up by competing colonies to protect their territories. Spalting is most prominent in light colored woods, such as maple and beech, but almost any kind of wood can be spalted. No two pieces are alike.

Where can I get it?

If you’re lucky, you can find spalted wood in any firewood pile. If green wood isn’t dried in ideal conditions, it can be attacked by fungus and start to spalt. For use in woodworking, the trick is to catch the wood at the right stage of decay and stop the fungal attack by quickly drying the wood to a fairly dry moisture content, from seven to 12 percent.

One of the best ways to order spalted wood is on the internet. Some sites provide a digital photo of an individual board, so you can see exactly what you’re buying. I bought my wood from BuzzSaw International. The firm specializes in figured West Coast big-leaf maple. It’s a bit spendy ($7.50 to $50 for 1 bd. ft.) but truly gorgeous.

For more standard wood at about $5 to $7 for 1 bd. ft., try West Penn Hardwoods. The site doesn’t show photos of individual boards, however.

What’s it like to work with?

The best spalted wood machines just like a regular board, but some pieces can be a real challenge. Decay is a gradual process, so some parts of a board can be very hard and others very soft. Soft spots can peck out when planed or become dished when sanded. Turners often use cyanoacrylate glue to penetrate and harden soft spots.

You can best capture spalted wood’s natural look by using a fast-drying finish, such as lacquer or shellac. Soft spots can soak up a lot of slower drying finishes, such as oil and varnish, which will unnaturally darken the wood.

Caution: Fungal spores can be an irritant. Use good dust collection and wear a respirator or mask.

1. Resaw boards for the box’s sides (F, G, H) and the frame pieces that go around the lid (B, C). It’s best to start with 1-1/4-in. (5/4) lumber and plane it to 1 in. thick. If you cut a dead straight line, however, and your wood is very stable, it’s possible to resaw rough 1-in. (4/4) boards. Make some extra pieces to help with machine setups later. Plane the lid pieces to 7/16 in. and the side pieces to 3/8 in. Rip the side parts to rough width (see Cutting List).

Resaw a straight-grained piece of mahogany to make the box’s sides and lid. This project is a perfect opportunity to make a little bit of beautiful wood go a long way.

2. Cut 3/8-in.-wide box joints on all side pieces. Set the bit as high as the side is thick, so the box-joint fingers are flush when the joint is assembled. Begin cutting the box joints from the bottom edge of each piece.

Cut box joints using a router table. You could use a tablesaw, but perfect results are surprisingly easy on the router table.

3. Rip the box sides to final size. The exact width doesn’t matter, as long as each cut lines up exactly with the joint’s fingers or notches. Note that the back (G) is lower than the sides by the width of one box-joint finger.

4. Glue the box together. Cut spacers (J) to length so the hinge fits comfortably between them. Glue the spacers to the box.

Clamp the box together with hardwood cauls. Tape the cauls’ ends to prevent them from sticking to the box. To pull the box square, clamp a block to one inside corner.

5. Glue the tray supports (K, L) to the inside of the box. Sand flat the bottom and top edges of the box.

Level the bottom of the box on 100-grit sandpaper taped to your table saw. This eliminates annoying gaps between the box and its base. Level the top edge by sanding, too.

Frame the lid

6. The lid’s raised panel (A) is the box’s centerpiece, so it pays to be particular about how the grain pattern is oriented. Make a simple window to figure out how to cut your showy wood.

Make the lid’s panel from that stunning piece of wood you’ve been hoarding. To find the best grain orientation, make two cardboard L shapes by tracing a carpenter’s square. Tape them together to form a window the same size as the panel.

7. Cut grooves all the way around the panel (Fig. B). Cut the ends first; then raise the bit 1/16 in. and cut the sides. This added depth in the long grooves leaves room for the panel to expand and contract.

Rout grooves in the panel’s sides. Clamp the panel to a
long, thick support board. This works better than a tall fence to prevent your precious piece from accidentally tipping in any direction.

8. Rout a small chamfer around the top and bottom of the panel. Sand the panel to 220 grit.

9. Plane the frame pieces to exact thickness, so they fit snugly in the panel’s grooves. Miter the pieces on the table saw. First cut the short pieces (C), so their miters line up with the lid’s corners. Clamp both pieces in the panel; then cut the long pieces (B) to fit.

Miter the small frame pieces that go around the panel. You could use a simple fence on your miter gauge, but I built a long miter box to safely hold the workpiece, a stop block and the offcuts.

10. Rout grooves on the ends of the frame pieces using a slot cutter (Fig. C).

Set up your router table for cutting grooves in the frame pieces. Here’s the arrangement, taken apart. The grooves are cut with a 1/8-in. slot-cutting bit. The cutter sticks through a zero clearance slot in a 1/4-in. plywood fence. If your router table has a large opening around the bit, use plywood to cover the hole.

Rout grooves the full length of each miter. These grooves will hold a thin spline, which strengthens the joint and guarantees the frame pieces will glue up perfectly even with each other.

11. Make the splines (D). Their exact thickness is very important. Too tight, and you won’t be able to slide them in the grooves after you add glue. Too loose, and they won’t align the frame pieces. The spline’s width should be 1/64 in. less than both grooves’ combined depth.

12. Glue the short frame pieces first. Be fussy about aligning their miters with the panel’s corners. Let the glue dry overnight. Then add the long frame pieces, one at a time. Align the miters first; then push in the spline from the joints’ ends.

Glue the frame pieces in stages. Glue the short pieces first, right to the panel, putting glue only in the middle two inches of the groove. Then add the long pieces, one at a time. Here, glue only goes on the miters, not in the panel’s grooves. The panel is then free to expand and contract, just like a raised-panel door.

13. After the glue is dry, use a handsaw to trim the protruding splines. Even the frame joints with 150-grit or finer sandpaper. Finish sanding to 220 grit.

Make the base

14. Make the base parts (M, N) from one or two long pieces of molding. First, chamfer the outside edge on the router table (Fig. D). Second, cut the rabbet on the router table or table saw. The rabbet’s depth should match the thickness of the plywood bottom (P). Cut the pieces to length.

15. Glue the base together with an opposed-wedge jig. To apply clamping pressure, use carpenter’s shims—you’ll find them ready-made at hardware stores.

Glue the base. Thin pieces can be difficult to clamp, so I borrowed a jig that musical instrument makers use. Clamping pressure is applied by sliding together two opposed wedges (carpenter’s shims). Use the same jig for gluing the sides of the trays to 1/4-in. plywood.

16. Cut the bottom to fit the base and glue it into the rabbets.

Create the trays

17. Cut the trays’ bottoms (Q, R) to exact width, but leave them 3/4 in. extra long. On the table saw, cut 1/8-in.-wide grooves, 1/8 in. deep, wherever you want to
insert dividers (Fig. A).

18. Mill a few long pieces for the trays’ sides (S, T, U, V) and dividers (W, X, Y). Plane them to fit into the grooves in the bottoms. Rip all the sides and dividers to final width. Cut the long sides 3/4 in. extra long.

19. Glue the long sides to both trays using the same opposed-wedge jig you used for the base. Add shims to span the distance between the trays and the jig’s sides.

20. Crosscut both ends of each tray. Measure their length directly from the inside of the box. When you add in the two end pieces, there should be 1/16-in. wiggle room between the ends of the trays and the ends of the box.

Crosscut the trays after gluing on their long sides. The tray’s corners are simply butt joints, so this cut ensures the tray’s bottom and sides are perfectly flush. Use backing boards behind both side pieces to eliminate any chance of chip-out.

21. Cut the short sides 1/4 in. extra long. Glue them to the trays using the opposed-wedge jig. Cut the ends flush and sand them even.

22. Cut the long divider (W) to fit. Glue it into the groove. Clamps aren’t necessary. Cut and glue the short dividers (X, Y).

Install the hinge

23. A shim (E) fits between the hinge and the lid (Fig. E). To calculate the shim’s exact thickness, place the closed hinge on the back edge of the box. Measure the distance from the top of the hinge to the top of the box and add 1/32 in. Crosscut the shim to fit between the spacers (J), allowing for 1/16 in. of play.

24. Glue the shim to the lid using spring clamps. Use a spacer to make sure the shim is parallel to the lid’s edge.

25. The hinge screws are centered on the box’s back edge (Fig. F). Draw or scribe a line down the center of the back. Put the hinge in place and mark the locations of the screw holes with an awl. Set up a drill press with a fence to drill the holes using a 1/16-in. bit.

Drill holes for the hinges. Use a drill press and a fence with this tiny 1/16-in. bit. Mark each hole with an awl before you drill to keep the bit from wandering.

26. Draw or scribe a line down the center of the shim under the lid. Mark the screw locations directly from the hinge, as in Step 25. Drill holes for the screws using the drill press.

Finish and assemble

27. To accurately mark the screw holes for attaching the base to the box, set the box on top of the base. Draw the outside perimeter of the box on the base’s top. Mark screw locations 3/16 in. inside the lines. Drill and countersink holes for the screws.

28. Turn the box over, place it on some tall blocks and clamp the base to it. Drill pilot holes for the screws into the box. Disassemble.

29. Finish the base, box and lid as separate parts.

30. Screw the base to the box. Screw the hinge to the lid, and then attach the lid to the box. The hinge has a built-in stop, so the lid won’t open too far.

Install the hinge and lid. These No. 1-size screws are delicate, so take it easy. Use a very small screwdriver that fits tightly in the screw’s slot to avoid marring its head.

Oops! Fixing a Mistake

Four nasty holes, right through the top.

Can you believe it? I drilled hinge screw holes all the way through the top of my box lid! Fortunately, the fix was easier and more invisible than I could have imagined. First, I found a piece of mahogany whose end grain was so light in color that it would blend with the face grain of the piece I drilled through. (I just wet the piece with water to see what its color would look like with finish on.) I made some tiny toothpicks from that wood, tapped them into the holes with glue and pared them flush. Now, everyone thinks my box lid is perfect, but I know where the bodies are buried!

Note: Product availability and prices are subject to change.

MLCS Woodworking,, 800-533-9298,
3/8-in. carbide spiral bit, 1/2-in. shank, #7467;
1/8-in. slot cutter with bearing, 1/2-in. shank, #7645;
45-degree chamfer bit, 1/2-in. shank, #7674;
Rabbeting kit, 1/2-in. shank, #8667.

Lee Valley,, 800-871-8158,
Box stop hinge, 200 mm x 9 mm, #00D80.05;
No. 1 brass screws, 1/2 in. long, #91Z01.03X. is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to and affiliated websites.

Fig. A: Exploded View


Fig. B: Panel


Fig. C: Frame

Fig. D: Base


Fig. E: Underside of Lid


Fig. F: Hinge


Cutting List


This story originally appeared in American Woodworker March 2005, issue #113.

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.

American Woodworker, Project, woodworking plans, woodworking projects

Recommended Posts

  1. Thermometer near me
  2. Mycobacterium smegmatis oxidase test
  3. Sb 129
  4. Bud vases set
  5. No rain chords

4 Easy Jewelry Box Woodworking Plans

Wooden Jewelry Boxes are one of the in-things these days. They are one piece of wooden furniture that typically lasts forever. The old ones become heirloom and are passed on from one generation to another. They make great handmade gifts – be it your spouse, mom or sister – you can gift it to them on any suitable occasion. And we need not tell you that the beauty of a handmade gift surpasses the most expensive of gifts.

So, here we have chosen 4 easy jewelry box woodworking plans for you – each one is different from the other. Check out each plan to see which one you like most.

Download our Top 4 easy jewelry box woodworking plans:

  1. Elegant Jewelry box from Fine Woodworking:
    easy jewelry box woodworking plan

    Example of an easy jewelry box woodworking plan.

This is one the classic, simple and elegant piece of jewelry boxes that you can find. Hand cut mitered dovetails are used here which gives the design its subtlety. Check this this plan which comes from none other than the prestigious woodworking magazine here.


  1. Beveled Beauty Jewelry Box from Wood Magazine:

If you want a sophisticatedly designed jewelry box, this piece is definitely going to catch your fancy. The best thing about this plan is that with just a table saw you can carry out most of the joinery tasks. And we need not say that the end result is beautiful. Get the plan here.


  1. Chest of Jewelry Bix from Rods Woodworking:

If you would like a jewelry box that comes with drawers, this is the one to go for. The plan gives the details of how much material you will need, the tools you will need along with all the necessary instructions and step by step pictures.


  1. Finger Joint Jewelry Box from Jeff Greef Woodworking:

This is a bit of an advanced jewelry box plan that has its share of twist – it boasts of a shelf that rises with the lid. If you think that a removable shelf makes the task of taking out jewelry cumbersome, this box will suit your needs most. When you open the lid of this box, the shelf does not just rise up on its own, it also serves as a means to hold the lid. It is definitely one ingenious piece of woodwork. Check out the details of the project here.


Whenever you set out to make a jewelry box, make sure that you make more than one. They are ideal to gift to your mother on her birthday or to your spouse on Valentine’s Day – of course you might need to gift her some jewelry as well.


19 Free Jewelry Box Plans: Swing for the Fence with a Wooden Jewelry Chest!

Can you feel Valentine’s day breathing down your neck? Is that special someone’s birthday about to blind side you? Wait is it almost Christmas time already? YIKES!!!

This list of 19 free jewelry box plans will make you a BIG HIT with your family, friends and even your bros :D

>> 3 Grand Slam Plans: Jewelry Chests with Drawers
>> 3 Home Run Jewelry Box Plans
>> 5 Classic Jewelry Boxes
>> 2 Guy’s Jewelry Boxes
>> 6 Quickie Jewelry Boxes
>> 11 Free Jewelry Box Videos
>> More Jewelry Box Plan Resources
>> Notable Jewelry Box Making Forum Threads
>> More Free Plan Collections from

>> 3 Grand Slam Plans: Jewelry Chests with Drawers
Maybe you’ve already made a “classic” or even a “home run” jewelry box in the past… You have a lot to live up to this year. Sometimes you have to go big – bigger than ever before. These 3 GRAND SLAM jewelry chest plans will keep the gratitude flowing ALL YEAR LONG.

Jewelry Chest

“When you first look at this jewelry chest, it’s hard to know where to focus your attention…”

Tansu Jewelry Chest

“A tansu is a Japanese chest of drawers. They are traditionally constructed with hand tool techniques, but I have adapted my design to use router methods to speed up the process.”

Oriental Jewelry Box of Drawers

“This “box” is really a structure of posts and rails joined with pinned or wedged mortises and tenons. All of the drawer sides are exposed within this structure, and the drawers are supported by it.”

>> 3 Home Run Jewelry Box Plans
These jewelry box plans each have something a little extra to them… something that sets them apart from your classic and quickie jewelry box plans below. When the love of your life pitches you a gift giving opportunity make sure you hit a home run with one of these…

Oval Jewelry Box Pattern and Template

“The secret to a free-form project that doesn’t have any straight lines is to use a router and a pair of templates.”

The Keyed Corner Jewelry Box

“This particular box is made from highly figured woods using some unique construction techniques, including corners with keyed accents that give it a one-of-a-kind look.”

Make a jewelry box

“If you need a last-minute gift idea and you have some beautiful small boards on hand, you have all you need to create this box. Its simple design won’t take long to build, but it’s attractive thanks to the appearance of the wood itself.”

>> 5 Classic Jewelry Boxes
You can’t go wrong with the classics. Each and every one of these is guaranteed to bring a tear to the love of your life’s eye… (even if that tear comes after she opens it up and sees it’s empty ;).

How to Build a Wooden Jewelry Box

“This beautiful hand-crafted jewelry box is designed to provide ample space to accommodate her favorite necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, chains, and other keep sakes.”

Jewelry Box Scroll Patterns

“Carved boxes always intrigue me. It’s not what’s inside — it’s the small details and the craftsmanship that make them irresistible.”

Jewelry Box

“While the malls are jammed with poor saps, I’ll be in my shop blissfully building these boxes for everyone on my list.”

Finger Joint Jewelry Box

“Here’s a jewelry box with a bit of a twist, a shelf that rises with the lid. I designed the shelf and lid this way because a removable shelf seemed clumsy since you have to find somewhere to set it down.”

Finger Jointed Keepsake Boxes

>> 2 Guy’s Jewelry Boxes
You’ll notice that the designers who make plans for wooden boxes that sit on top of guy’s dressers call them “storage chests” and “dresser valets.” That’s fine. We know what they really are, and there’s no shame in guys having jewelry boxes… or in making them and giving them to each other. Bromance is a beautiful thing.

Build A Mahogany Storage Chest (Jewelry Box for Guys)

“Our mahogany chest of drawers is based on the type traditionally used by craftsmen to store precision tools. However, you don’t need to own a micrometer to make good use of it. With its six felt-lined drawers and locking top compartment, it’s the ideal place to store or display jewelry, collectibles, memorabilia and all those little things that never seem to find a home of their own.”

Dresser valet

“Give the gift of organization. This timeless vanity valet is designed to contain the clutter and collections of a man’s day-to-day life”

>> 6 Quickie Jewelry Boxes
You don’t need to explain to us why you need a simple, quick woodworking gift idea. We completely understand. These six jewelry boxes still say “I love you” while not smothering that special someone in too much expectation of gratitude.

Bandsaw Boxes

“Bandsaw boxes are novel in their design, deceptively simple to build and make perfect jewelry, trinket or keepsake boxes.”

How to Make a Jewelry Trinket Box

“This uniquely crafted trinket box is perfect for storing small jewelry, mementoes, or other valuable treasures.”

How to Build a Band Saw Box

Jewelry Box

“This is a very simple project and ideal as a gift for Mom.”

Jewelry Box

“Utilizing all straight cuts and simple joinery techniques, this jewelry box is a good project for beginners.”

Use Box Joints to make this Music / Jewelry Box

>> 11 Free Jewelry Box Videos:
Woodworking 101 — Band Saw Jewelry Box

Routing a jewellery box with a pendulum jig

Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.1 – Making the curved sides

Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.2 – Making the monogram medallion
Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.3 – Lid and case assembly
Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.4 – The removable trays
Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.5 – Completing the trays
Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.6 – Assembly
Build a Jewelry Box: Pt.7 – Finishing and Completion

Temima Crafts – Bloomin’ Clever Box (Band Sawn)

Video Inspiration from Don Phillips Woodworking

>> More Jewelry Box Plan Resources:
Free Jewelry Box Plans from FreeWW
Free Jewelry Box Plans from Woodworker’s Workshop
Free Jewelry Box Plans from All Woodwork
Free Jewelry Box Plans from Woodworking Plan Finder
Paid Jewelry Box Plans from Woodworker’s Journal

>> Notable Jewelry Box Making Forum Threads:
show me your jewelry box joinery
Jewelry “Box” for the wife (lots of pics!)

>> More Free Plan Collections from
The 38 Most Popular Free Woodworking Plans of 2008
31 Free 3D Puzzle Plans for Woodworkers: Burrs, Japanese Boxes, Tangrams and MORE
25 Fast, Easy and Free Woodworking Plans for Last Minute Christmas Gifts
Build Your Dream Workshop: 23 Free Workshop and Shed Plans
12 Free Workshop Storage Plans: Tool Cabinets, Rolling Carts, Under Stair Storage and More
20 Free Cutting Board Plans + the 4 that Blew My Mind
15 Free Mobile Base Plans: Put Your Power Tools on Wheels
Wood Storage 101: 14 Lumber Storage Plans and 7 Storage Tips
32 Free Picnic Table Plans + Top 3 Most Awesome Picnic Table Plan Awards
15 Free Toolbox Plans for Woodworkers
24 Free Sawhorse Plans in the Hunt for the Ultimate Sawhorse’s Ultimate Guide to Free Woodworking Workbench Plans
9 Sandpaper Storage Ideas (+ free plans)’s Ultimate Guide to Free Router Table Plans’s Ultimate Guide to the Crosscut Sled



Design jewelry plans box

Introduction: Jewelry Box Build by WoodSkills

A brief glimpse into the handcrafting of a White Mountain Design jewelry box...presented by WoodSkills

Each drawer, tray and compartment divider is individually fitted to accommodate the overall jewelry box dimensions. The bottom drawer glides along rails on either side of the drawer opening, the drawer has corresponding grooves. Each compartment divider can be removed to allow for a larger compartment and to accommodate larger pieces of jewelry. The sliding trays allow you to view contents of the compartments below . The exterior woods used are hand-picked for each jewelry box with matching grain orientation. Figured wood tops are available as an option. Hand-carved handles are also selected to accentuate the wood selected for the box itself.

For woodworking plans, courses and tutorials, videos and WOODSKILLS Magazine, please visit WoodSkills

Step 1: Preparing Rough Boards (1)

A view of the roughly prepared blanks for the tops and sides of the jewelry boxes. The wood in this series of jewelry boxes is mahogany. Mahogany features an interlocking grain pattern which can present a challenge when using hand tools. Preparing rough boards for a series of jewelry boxes allows me to better select the most appealing grain pattern for the sides and top. The aesthetic of the jewelry box is as important as the quality of construction. You can see that skip-dressing of the boards allow the underlying lighter color of the fresh wood to be seen before it has been exposed to light.

Step 2: Preparing Rough Boards (2)...

Another view of the rough sides and tops for two jewelry boxes can be seen here. These boards are approximate in dimensions of length and width and are in the process of being machined to an exact thickness. I always create multiples of jewelry boxes, either in pairs or up to 20 at a time, to make efficient use of machine and jig setup.

Step 3: Sides and Top of Box...

The sides and top for the box itself are prepared next. Grooves and rabbets are created using jigs to ensure precise layout. The mitered ends of the sides can also be seen. Reinforcing splines will be added later to bolster the mitered corners. Another version of the jewelry box has hidden splines inserted to reinforce the mitered corners. The dimensions of the four sides are accurately cut to ensure that the miters fit snugly together and the box remains square from top to bottom.

Step 4: Clamping Box...

The perfectly fit sides and floating top are now clamped together. I typically use two band clamps as the one shown to ensure that clamping is uniform from top to bottom. Band clamps are an excellent tool to put together large boxes such as these jewelry boxes. Clamping pressure is adequate to ensure the mitered corners mate and maintain enough glue to create a joint. Too much clamping pressure could distort the box and can cause the sides to slide slightly if another clamping technique is used instead. The plastic corners attached to the band clamp keep the mitered corners in place. It is critical to allow the jewelry box top to float in the groove to ensure that expansion of the top does not break apart the box.

Step 5: Completed Box Case...

Two views of a small series of jewelry boxes which have been fitted with drawers and trays. The contrasting exotic hand-carved wood handles are then fitted to the top and drawer of the jewelry box. It becomes critical to follow a pre-determined assembly sequence to maintain some efficiency in producing these jewelry boxes. I typically have the carved handles prepared before hand.

Step 6: Fitting Process...

An overhead view of fitting process, individual components of the interior of the jewelry box are hand planed to tolerance. Although several components can be interchanged between jewelry boxes, the focus is to ensure each component is fitted to a particular jewelry box.

Step 7: Squaring Components...

The ends of the individual dividers are squared to perfect perpendicular orientation to the length using a shooting board and shop built wooden hand plane. The shooting board excels at squaring small components such as the dividers used in the jewelry box trays.

Step 8: Dimensioning Components...

The process of smoothing or dimensioning a compartment divider to exact dimensions using specialized hand planes. Each divider is hand-fitted to its tray. The goal is to be able to interchange components but this is not always the case as each tray and compartment is slightly different in some way.

Step 9: Jewelry Box Interior...

The interior of a typical jewelry box with the trays fitted and dividers installed. Here, the lid is bare and will be built up in the next stages. Each tray can be removed to better access the compartments below. The bottom drawer of the jewelry box has larger compartments to hold larger pieces of jewelry. The drawer dividers are approx. 1/8 in. shorter than the drawers to allow for the padded velour drawer bottoms. Once this padded velour bottom is installed, the drawer dividers rise to the level of the drawer compartment sides for a flush fit. After the final finishing process, the jewelry box begins to attain its final color and patina through exposure to light and aging.

Step 10: Jewelry Box Exterior...

The exterior of a black cherry jewelry box with bird's eye top panel. There are a few more steps to complete prior to application of the finish and final rubbing out. Note the hand carved handles. A large selection of figured wood tops are available as well as solid wood tops. Since the jewelry boxes are designed to be uniform in size, the tops can be interchanged between jewelry boxes.

Step 11: Interior Work...

Another view of the black cherry and bird's eye top jewelry box at 75% completion. The interior of top lid needs to be handcrafted and fitted next. All compartment dividers have now been fitted and installed. An optional brass lock can also be fitted at this stage. The jewelry box is built up in stages much like an assembly line for cars!

Step 12: Working in Multiples (1)...

A series of jewelry boxes in various stages of completion. White Mountain Design jewelry boxes can be ordered with different selections of woods and tops. Here, the jewelry boxes are of black cherry with contrasting bird's eye maple tops in different shades and figure. Having the dimensions of the jewelry boxes standardized allows the interchange of larger and smaller components between boxes. At least, this is the plan :)

Step 13: Working in Multiples (2)...

To make the most efficient of machinery and jig setups, I have often created upwards of twenty jewelry boxes at a time. Since the dimensions of the jewelry box are standardized, it becomes easier to interchange different combinations of boxes and tops. Contrasting, figured tops or solid raised tops can easily be fitted into existing mahogany, maple or cherry boxes. Custom-sized jewelry boxes can also be seen in this photo. More of the advantages and cost-effectiveness of creating multiples are discussed in the "Start Your Own Woodworking Business" course offered by WoodSkills.

Step 14: Shooting Miters...

Shooting the miters for the inside panel frame components. This is performed after the components are sized to the inside lid. Shooting the ends of drawer and tray components guarantees a perfect 45-degree joint or corner for the inside lid components. The shooting board can be used to shoot either 45 or 90 degree ends of components. Perfect miters are critical as gaps in joints take away from the quality of the jewelry box.

Step 15: Inside of Lid...

The inside of a lid with frame components and inside panel installed. There are a few more steps to follow before application of the engraved brass plate. A carved wood mount to which the brass plate is affixed is handcrafted next. The carved wood mount is centred in the top inside panel and the brass plate in inlaid into the wood block.

Step 16: Maker's Mark...

A White Mountain Design brass insignia has been applied to the inner lid and all frame and panel members have been glued in. The gold-plated lock and the wood mount for the customized brass plate are next. The combination of brass maker's mark and personalized brass engraved plate add a level of craftsmanship to the product.

Step 17: Lock Install...

The gold-plated lock has been installed in one of our black cherry jewelry boxes. The escutcheon is only temporarily mounted for fitting purposes. The lock has been tested for proper operation. Extreme care is taken to fit these locks as the process cannot be reversed and any damage or errors essentially trash the jewelry box.

Step 18: Completed Jewelry Boxes...

Two completed jewelry boxes ready for delivery. The exteriors have had finish applied and have been hand-rubbed. The interior compartments are lined with velvet and ring holder compartments installed in each of the sliding trays. Personalized brass plates and holders have been completely installed. The personalized brass plates can now be seen installed.

Step 19: Completed Jewelry Boxes (1)...

The completed jewelry boxes with bottom drawer open for a better idea of the size of the drawer compartments. Each jewelry box has slightly different characteristics in the graphics or grain pattern of the body and the figure of the bird's eye top. The client is essentially receiving a unique, one of a kind product even though the dimensions are standardized between jewelry boxes.

Step 20: Completed Jewelry Boxes (2)...

An exterior or bird's eye view of the same jewelry boxes. The contrast between the black cherry body and the light bird's eye tops can be seen here. Often, I will have a few of these jewelry boxes in different combinations of woods available so a client can select their choice from inventory. As I like to mention to my clients, now comes the expensive part, filling the jewelry box :)

Step 21: Completed Mahogany Jewelry Box...

Another variant of the jewelry box. This is a mahogany jewelry box with a solid raised top. Client opted not to have Maker's Mark installed. Some clients like it, others prefer that the engraved brass plate remain the focal point of the inside lid of the box. These jewelry boxes are fairly large at 14 in. W x 10 in. D x 6 in. H. From previous research, clients prefer this size. This jewelry box has a spray lacquer finish applied to both maintain the clarity of the wood and to create a durable outside finish. Other options are a shellac-based finish and an oil-based finish. I typically apply the oil-based finish to the walnut version of the jewelry box. Each of the drawer and trays have now been lined with padded velour. The jewelry boxes continue to be created to this day at White Mountain Design in small batches. I create the batches a few times a year to ensure some inventory is maintained.

For woodworking plans, courses and tutorials and videos, please visit WoodSkills

Be the First to Share

Did you make this project? Share it with us!


  • Organization Contest

    Organization Contest
  • Tinkercad Student Design Contest

    Tinkercad Student Design Contest
  • Robots Contest

    Robots Contest
5 Beautiful jewelry boxes ideas / Home decor ideas

Top 17 Unique Handmade Jewelry Box Ideas

Anything that is dear to us we want to keep it safe and protected so that it lasts longer with us. And when it comes to ladies they are in in deep love with their jewelry and this love is eternal one. DIY Jewelry Organizers are used excessively by the women to safely house their adorable jewelry pieces. The boxes not only guarantee safety but also avoid the tangling of the jewelry items into each other which often happens when you carelessly drop them in the dressing drawers. There is a variety of the jewelry boxes in the market with gorgeous designs and adorable shapes. But we want to save your money over these purchased jewelry boxes as you can make them at home yourself and that too immense easily. We have done a tedious job of hunting the different webs and brought these top 17 unique handmade jewelry boxes ideas.
There are many things at home that can be put to a second best use of the jewelry boxes like mod podge, tiffin boxes, old books and the shoe boxes. If you have a feasible approach over the wood you can try your hands on it to make the much exquisite wooden jewelry boxes. You can use one big box with sections to hold all the jewelry at one place or use many boxes to store your jewelry categorically. The links under each picture lead you to the detailed tutorials and suggest you how easily you can create a personalized box or restyle the old one so do click.

Ring Box:

DIY Jewelry Box IdeasImage: abubblylife

 Jewelry Box With Felt Lining:

DIY Jewelry Box with Felt LiningImage:

Book Jewelry Box:

Book Jewelry BoxImage: sincerelykinsey

Target Clearance Jewelry Box:

Jewelry box created from Target clearance box - check out the before!Image: mycraftyspot

Chic Shoe Box Jewelry Organizer:

 DIY Jewelry Box Ideas By Angela Jordanovska Published on October 2, 2014 Share Tweet Comment Mod Podge Jewelry BoxImage: lilaccola

Large Size DIY Jewelry Box:

DIY: How To Make Jewelry Box - DIY Jewelry BoxesImage: youtube

Colorful Mother’s Day DIY Jewelry Box:

Colorful Mother’s Day DIY Jewelry BoxImage: consumercrafts

Easy Geometric Pattern Jewelry:

 DIY Jewelry Box Ideas By Angela Jordanovska Published on October 2, 2014 Share Tweet Comment Colorful Geometric Jewelry BoxImage: craftstylish

Colorful Geometric Jewelry Organizer:

Organize Your Jewelry With This Colorful, Geometric DIYImage:

Hunger Games Book Jewelry Box:

Hunger Games Book Jewelry Box Image: etsy

Woodworking Jewelry Box:

Picture Of Gatsby Inspired Diy Jewelry BoxImage: shelterness

Handmade Jewelry Box: In Blue

 DIY Jewelry BoxImage: instructables

Tiffany & Co inspired Jewelry Box:

 DIY Top 10 DIY Jewelry Box Ideas By Angela Jordanovska Published on October 2, 2014 Share Tweet Comment Tiffany & Co inspired Jewelry BoxImage: lifeannstyle

Cigar Box & Burlap Jewelry Organizer:

 DIY cigar box and burlap jewelry organizerImage: mrkate

Wooden Box Jewelry Box:

Colorful Mother’s Day DIY Jewelry BoxImage: consumercrafts

 Mosaic Jewelry Box:

Diy Mosaic Jewelry BoxImage:

 Mod Podge Wooden Jewelry Boxes:

DIY Mod Podge Wooden Jewelry BoxesImage: titicrafty


You will also be interested:

How to Make a Simple Wooden Jewelry Box

How to Make a Jewelry Box

I made the wooden jewelry box 10″ x 5″ and 3″ high.  I like the 2:1 ratio look on the box and this size seems to be just big enough to be substantial, but not too big.  You can easily adjust the size to any dimensions you’d like and use these same methods.  I also have jewelry box plans for beginners above so make sure to check those out.

The best part is this build takes very little wood.  So you can buy nice hardwoods for the box and not break the bank.  I had this piece of curly maple with amazing figure I’ve been looking to use.  So I cut material for two boxes which you will see some parts for both boxes in the pictures.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-1

I used the maple for the sides of the box and walnut for the top, bottom, and lining for a nice contrast.

Make the Top and Bottom Panels of the Jewelry Box

Firstly you’ll make the top and bottom panels.  I used a larger piece of walnut with some nice figure to make my tops and bottom panels.  If you are just using a solid one piece panel or 1/4″ plywood this will be very easy.

I resawed the walnut into 2 pieces on the bandsaw then cut those in half to finish with 4 pieces.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-9

Next I put them through the 19-38 drum sander to get down to a final dimension of 1/4″.  This is one of the best uses for the drum sander in my book.  It’s easy to get right down to a specific dimension quickly.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-11

After they were flat I glued the pieces together into 2 panels and then cut them to size.  If you aren’t using resawn lumber or glue ups, cut your top panel and bottom panel for your wooden jewelry box to 9-1/2″ by 4-1/2″.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-13

Make the Sides of the DIY Wooden Jewelry Box

For the sides, cut your pieces into 3-1/8″ wide strips.  You’ll need two 10″ piece and two 5″ pieces.  I cut mine to  16″ long to be split in two next.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-3

I resawed the pieces on the bandsaw to get two pieces 16″ long and just under 1/2″ then took them to the drum sander and brought them down to 3/8″ in thickness.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-5Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-7

Next, cut the grooves in the sides of the DIY jewelry box for the top and bottom panels.  The grooves are 1/4″ wide and 3/16″ deep.  They are located 3/16″ from the top and bottom.  Do some test cuts in scrap before making the grooves to be sure your top and bottom panels fit snugly.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-14Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-15

Cut the sides to length, 5″ and 10″, with miters on each end.  By cutting the sides from the same piece you can achieve a continuous grain flow around the whole box.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-16

Assemble the Simple Wooden Jewelry Box

Assemble the jewelry box by laying the side pieces end to end in a straight line and taping the joints on the outside.  Apply glue to the miters and then “fold up” the box, inserting the top and bottom panels into the grooves.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-17Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-18

Clamping the glue up with a web clamp makes this much easier, but f-clamps work well also.  After the box is dry sand the sides to 220 grit before the next step.  Yes, I realize this a wooden box with no way to get inside…patience my friend.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-19

Now you’ll make the top (ah ha!).  Cut through the jewelry box 3/4″ down from the top on all 4 sides.  To do this safely, cut the short ends first and then tape in some 1/8″ shims in the kerfs to hold the wooden box together while you cut the long sides.  This is the method for doing it on a tablesaw, you can also do this on a bandsaw, you’ll just have a little more clean up.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-22Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-23Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-24

I got burning on the top edge of the jewelry box, so I took it to the drum sander to remove the burn marks and get everything level.  I also did this to the underside of the top.  Feeding the box in on an angle helps reduce your chances of snipe.  You can also flatten the parts on a sheet of sandpaper stuck to your tablesaw.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-25

Install the Lining on the DIY Jewelry Box

The last piece of the jewelry box is the lining which serves as decoration as well a lip for the lid.  I resawed some walnut to 1/4″ on the bandsaw and sanded it flat to 3/16″ on the drum sander.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-20Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-21

Rip the pieces to 2″ wide and then cut the pieces to fit in the box.  The short pieces should be ~ 4-1/4″ and the long pieces should be ~8-7/8″, cut the pieces to fit your wooden jewelry box.  You can miter these corners as well, but stacking miters inside miters is a bit more tricky.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-26

Glue the pieces in place and clamp with some spring clamps.  Put the short pieces in first and sand everything to 220 grit before installing.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-27

Apply A Finish to the Wooden Jewelry Box

After the glue has dried, touch up any sharp edges and do a once over of the whole jewelry box with 220 grit sandpaper.  Now apply your finish of choice.  I used shellac to really pop the grain of the maple but not yellow it.  I applied 4 coats and finished it with a beeswax mixture.

Simple Wooden Jewelry Box-28

Even though I used some fancy wood, this simple DIY wooden jewelry box build is easy to make and a great way to get started in box making.  You can do so many more things with boxes, like splines, hinges, trays, etc.  Don’t forget to get the jewelry box plans below!

I’ll be doing some future projects where I show you some of these techniques, but until then go check out some other projects on my Projects Page.


2691 2692 2693 2694 2695