Ender 3 retraction distance

Ender 3 retraction distance DEFAULT

The 3D Printer Bee

Martin

Besides many test devices, Martin now has his fourth own 3D printer running and prints as a hobby for friends, family and himself. He is happy to share his experience with each new article.

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The Ender 3 from Creality* is one of the best 3D printers in the lower price segment. It offers a very good price-performance ratio, a large installation space, good print quality and is compatible with many filament types. 

Its popularity and the small purchase price additionally ensure that it is often bought and thus a large online community is available. So you will quickly get an answer or a tip to all questions and problems.

It gets annoying, however, if 3D printing does not work out as you imagined or wished it would. The Ender 3 is known for its excellent performance with different filaments. 

However, it is also known for the fact that it is not exactly easy to get the phenomenon of stringing under control. Fortunately, there are a few tips and tricks on how to improve the settings to avoid this problem when printing. Because nobody needs the small cobweb-like stringing threads on his model.

In this article, we will discuss all methods that can help you with stringing on your Ender 3.

Related posts:

Contents

Stringing Test Print

If you do not get perfect results with any of the methods described below right away, you should get a test object for stringing. These objects are small, don’t waste a lot of filament and test the settings using the worst case approach.
An example would be the “Basic Stringing Test” by Loohney on Thingiverse.com (link). On the website you will find countless other test objects if you are not satisfied with this one.

Printing Temperature

How hot you are printing is extremely important for the print result. The hotter, the more fluid the filament that passes through the nozzle becomes. The more liquid the filament, the faster it runs through the nozzle. 

If you are having stringing problems when printing, you should first of all make sure that your extruder is cooler to protect the filament and make it run more slowly. But there is a little catch here. Many types of filaments tend to string even at too cold temperatures. So you have no choice but to experiment. 

But actually, we don’t mind experimenting, do we? Most hobby owners of a 3D printer like to experiment with the filament and the settings, somehow it’s part of it.

It is best if you change the temperature in small steps (approx. 3-5 °C) and look at the results. You will quickly find the optimal temperature. However, this will probably not be the only setting you need to optimize.

Ender 3 Retraction Settings

If you want to get the best possible results in 3D printing, you need to relieve the nozzle during printing. You can do this by setting your 3D slicing software to retract the filament while you are driving. 

However, it is not always easy to make these settings in the slicing software. Especially with the popular slicing software Cura, there are often problems with the retraction of the filament.

First you should go into your Cura software and click on the gear symbol under the settings in the Material section. Now a field with a dialog will open. It says “Setting Visibility”. 

You have to tick the boxes below to activate the functions. Click all the boxes that appear. Then you can close the box. In the print settings section, you will now find all material settings openly visible. This gives you quick access to them.

The actual problem with retraction is actually very quick and easy to solve. Because when downloading Cura, the retraction movement is switched off. So you have to activate it to enable your 3D printer to perform the retracting movement. 

So if you have activated retraction, you can edit further settings for it. If it is deactivated, you will not find the other settings at all. Then they are hidden.

Further settings can now be made. We would like to explain these briefly so that you can compare them with your settings. So you can find out where the error is in your 3D print and how the stringing came about. So go through all settings step by step with us.

Is your retraction activated? The answer should now be yes. If it hasn’t been activated, do it now.

Retraction Distance

The retraction distance is the amount of filament that is retracted by the extruder from the die or Bowden tube.

For example, if you have set your settings to 5 mm, the extruder will also pull 5 mm filament back from the nozzle or Bowden tube. The retraction distance is therefore 5 mm.

The filament is then pressed back into the nozzle. This happens as soon as the 3D printer is ready and sends the signal to the extruder and the nozzle. As in our example, 5 mm of filament would then be pressed back into the nozzle. This relieves the nozzle from time to time.

In order to achieve the best possible result, it makes sense to look for the smallest possible setting. It should be between 3 and 7 mm to get good printing results. But test it carefully to see which number fits you best. If the number is too low, the stringing will not be reduced. If the number is again too high, the filament may be damaged. 

Also, if you increase the number, the printing time will increase. So you have to experiment a bit to find the optimal setting for you.

Retraction Speed

The retraction speed can also be responsible for the formation of threads on your object. As you can imagine, the retraction speed is the speed at which the extruder pulls the filament out of the nozzle and the Bowden tube. The retraction speed is given in mm/s. The faster the extruder works here, the more likely damage to the filament can occur. 

So for good printing results it is better to set a lower speed here. Especially since you can protect the filament by setting a lower speed.

Another tip on retraction speed is that you should reduce the speed if you find filament dust around the extruder. The dust is caused by the extruder gear rubbing against the filament. If there is no dust, you can leave the settings as they are or increase the speed. 

This will also reduce your printing time. A guide value is 50 mm/s. From this value you can experiment in peace until you find the right setting.

Maximum Number of Retractions

The next setting you can make is the maximum retraction. If you set the maximum retraction number, you can also protect the filament from damage. 

Because the quality of the filament suffers if it is pulled back and pushed out again several times. 

The less often this happens, the better the final quality of the filament and thus the quality of your 3D product. After all, that’s our goal, so that the object looks flawless afterward. Without threads or other defects. 

So the more retractions the extruder has to perform, the more likely defects can occur in individual filament parts or even in the entire product. The problem with the Cura software is that the default setting is 100. It is strongly recommended that you change this setting. The filament will not be protected in any way. 

Best you start with 10. With a maximum retraction number of 10, your filament will definitely be well protected. Of course, if there is no damage to the product, you can also set the maximum number of retractions higher. Here you can try something again.

Retraction Minimum Travel

The minimum extrusion distance determines the length of the filament used within the maximum number of retractions. You can set this number in the “Retraction Minimum Travel” window. 

It is best to set the number so that it comes close to your retraction distance. In this way you protect your filament again.

Limit Support Retractions

You can, if you like, limit the support retractions. You can activate this by clicking on Activate in your Cura software under “Limit Support Retractions”. If you have activated it, the retraction will be stopped if it is inside supports.

You’re probably wondering why that makes sense. We can only strongly recommend that you limit your support retraction. After all, the retraction is actually a good thing. However, it extends the printing time and therefore your filament can be damaged. 

The supports can live without the retraction and your print will have a better quality. Besides, your print is finished faster, which is always good.

Nozzle Settings

You can leave the nozzle setting as it is when printing with Ender 3. It is 16 mm and 20 mm/s. This is perfectly ok. These settings only need to be changed if you would work with a double extruder. 

But the Ender 3 has only one, so don’t have to think about that.

Combing Mode

The Combing Mode offers four setting options. There are the settings:

  • Off
  • All
  • Not in skin
  • Within infill

The Combing Mode gives the slicer the path. It tells it to hold the nozzle where it says and to print only in these areas. In our opinion, the best setting is “Within infill”. This reduces the necessary number of retractions. 

The nozzle remains within the filling areas and does not move back and forth unnecessarily. It can extend the printing time a little bit, but at the same time it protects your filament.

All Settings Summarized

Since there are some settings you can or should consider, they are summarized here again at a glance for you.

  • Enable Retraction: Yes
  • Retraction Distance: 5 mm (gradually adjust by 1 mm until the stringing disappeared)
  • Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s (slow down even more if damage to the filament is visible)
  • Maximum Retraction Count: 10
  • Retraction Minimum Travel: 1
  • Limit Support Retractions: Yes
  • Retraction distance of the nozzle switch: 16 mm (leave default setting)
  • Retraction speed of the nozzle switch: 20 mm/s (leave default setting)
  • Combing mode: Yes, within the filling

How Can It Still Come to Stringing?

There are of course other possible causes for stringing in 3D printing. Among others, the following points can also cause problems:

  • Nozzle condition
  • Dirty nozzle
  • Length of the melting zone
  • Bowden tube with smaller inner diameter

The nozzle properties are as important as the settings during 3D printing. If the nozzle is damaged, corroded, outdated or badly drilled, has cracks or other damage, this has a significant effect on the print quality and can also be a trigger for stringing. 

So make sure that your nozzle has been manufactured cleanly and is still intact. So you can save yourself the trouble of making all the adjustments if your nozzle already has a defect.

The same applies to a dirty nozzle. Your nozzle should always be clean. Clean it regularly and professionally. Because a dirty nozzle naturally pulls threads, the old filament has to go somewhere.

For fast printing you are often recommended good nozzles with a large reservoir and large openings. But this also makes them drip faster and they tend to string. That’s why you should stick to small nozzles if you don’t like stringing.

Last but not least a Bowden tube with a small inner diameter is recommended. It works more precisely and drips less. A diameter of 1.9 mm is recommended.

Clean the 3D Printer Properly

Many problems can be solved by simply cleaning your 3D printer properly. Not only the nozzle should be cleaned. With unclean materials, it is no wonder if your print fails or you have to deal with stringing. 

However, cleaning your 3D printer is not difficult at all and does not even take very long. So that you know exactly what we are talking about, here is a short summary of how to keep your 3D printer clean to avoid stringing and other problems in the near future.

Printing Bed

If you use your 3D printer frequently and regularly, you should clean the print bed once a week. After all, your object lands on the print bed and has to stay there for quite a while. 

It should be firmly attached. Simply take the print bed out of the 3D printer and clean it with lukewarm water. If any filament remains on the print bed, remove it carefully with a knife.

Build Volume

The build volume of a 3D printer usually remains quite clean if you take care of the nozzle. If filament should drip into the build volume, you can also use a knife here. With open 3D printers you have to wipe dust here regularly.

Extruder

To clean the extruder properly, you have to remove the fan and ventilator. Then you can access the extruder. A damp brush can help you to clean the extruder from filament residues. This will be enough approximately every three months.

Hotend

With a metal brush, you get the hotend nice and clean. It is best to do this once a week, because it sticks together quickly. Make sure to clean it thoroughly and regularly to avoid disadvantages when printing.

The X, Y and Z axes

Once a month the axles must also be cleaned. A duster is sufficient for this. You can also oil the axles to keep them supple. Sewing machine oil is cheap and perfect.

3D Printer Maintenance

Sometimes cleaning is not enough and you have to maintain your printer. To do this, you disassemble all the parts you can remove and clean them thoroughly. Defective parts are replaced and you can check everything for its condition. 

While waiting, you can also check all calibrations again. Are all screws tight? Are the axle settings still correct? Does a part have to be replaced? Are all parts dust-free? How much filament do I still have? etc.

How to Store Filament

Surely you know that the filament also plays an important role for good printing results. You should not buy cheap filament just to save a few bucks. Printing with high-quality filament is the only way to get real fun when printing. 

Store the filament well closed in a cool and dry place. 

Conclusion

With the right settings and good handling of your materials, stringing on your Ender 3 should soon be history. Then 3D printing will be fun again and your printing results will be perfect! 


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Sours: https://the3dprinterbee.com/ender-3-stringing-retraction-settings/

There are many settings that we can adjust and improve on our 3D printers, one of them being retraction settings. It took me a while to figure out how important they were, and once I did, my 3D printing experience changed for the better.

Many people don’t realize how important retraction can be until they are troubleshooting poor print quality in certain models.

Retraction settings are related to the speed and length at which your filament is pulled back within your extrusion path, so the melted filament at the nozzle doesn’t leak out while moving. Retraction can improve overall print quality and stop print imperfections such as blobs and zits.

What is Retraction in 3D Printing?

When you hear that rotating noise backwards and see filament actually getting pulled back, that is retraction occurring. It is a setting which you’ll find in your slicer software, but it isn’t always enabled.

After you have understood the basics of printing speed, temperature settings, layer heights and widths, then you start to get into the more nuance settings like retraction.

We can be specific on telling our 3D printer how exactly to retract, whether that be the length of retraction, or the speed at which the filament is retracted.

Accurate retraction length and distance can reduce the chances of different problems mainly the stringing and oozing.

Now that you have a basic understanding of retraction in 3D printing, let’s explain the basic retraction terms, retraction length and retraction distance.

1. Retraction Length

Retraction distance or retraction length specifies the length of the filament that will be extruded from the nozzle. The retraction distance should be adjusted accurately because both too low and too high retraction distance can cause printing problems.

The distance will tell the nozzle to pull back the amount of filament according to the specified length.

According to the experts, the retraction distance should be between the 2mm to 7mm distance and should not be more than the length of the printing nozzle. The default retraction distance on Cura is 5mm.

While adjusting the retraction distance, increase or decrease it in small increments to get the best suitable length because it varies depending on the type of filament you are using.

2. Retraction Speed

Retraction speed is the rate at which the filament will retract from the nozzle while printing. Just like the retraction distance, setting the most suitable retraction speed is necessary to get better results.

Retraction speed should not be too low because the filament will begin to ooze from the nozzle before it reaches the exact point.

It should not be too fast because the extruder motor will reach the next location quickly and the filament will extrude from the nozzle after a short delay. A distance too long can cause a decline in print quality because of that delay.

It can also result in the filament getting ground and chewed up when the speed generates too much biting pressure and rotation.

Most of the time the retraction speed works perfectly at its default range but you may need to adjust it while switching from one filament material to another.

How to Get the Best Retraction Length & Speed Settings?

To get the best retraction settings you can adopt one of the different ways. Implementing these processes will surely help you to get the best retraction settings and print the object just as you expected.

Notice that the retraction settings will be different depending on the fact that whether you have a Bowden setup or a Direct Drive setup.

Trial and Error

It is the best technique to get the best suitable retraction settings. Print a small object just for retraction tests that can be printed in a short period.

Start the printing process by changing the retraction speed and retraction distance step by step and see where the printer is performing well. Start printing the actual object when you are completely satisfied with the retraction tests print.

Changes Between Materials

The retraction settings are usually different for every filament material being used. You have to calibrate the retraction settings accordingly every time you use a new filament material such as PLA, ABS, etc.

If you are facing any problem even after changing the retraction setting, try to use filament materials that are comparatively flexible because these types of filament will work properly on the low retraction speed as well.

Cura has actually released a new method to dial in your retraction settings directly within the software.

The video below by CHEP explains it really well so check it out. There are specific objects that you can put on your build plate from within Cura where you can also insert scripts to best test retraction settings, one at a time.

Cura Retraction Settings on Ender 3

The Cura retraction settings on Ender 3 printers usually include different settings and the ideal and expert choice for these settings will be as follows.

  • Retraction Enabling: First, go to the ‘Travel’ settings and check the ‘Enable Retraction’ box to enable it
  • Retraction Speed: It is recommended to test a print at 50mm/s and if you notice any issues in the filament, try decreasing the speed by 10 mm and stop when you notice improvements.
  • Retraction Distance: On Ender 3, the retraction distance should be within 2mm to 8mm. Begin at 5mm and then adjust it until the nozzle stops oozing.
  • Max Retraction Cont: “10” is considered as the ideal choice, only change this count if you feel any issue in the printing process.

The best thing you can do on your Ender 3 is implement a retraction tower to calibrate the best retraction settings. How this works is you can set your Ender 3 to use increments of each setting per ‘tower’ or block to see which gives the best quality.

So you would do a retraction tower to start with a retraction distance of 2mm, then have 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, up to 8mm and see which retraction setting gives the best results.

What 3D Printing Problems Do Retraction Settings Fix?

As it is mentioned above, stringing or oozing is the major and most common problem that occurs just because of wrong retraction settings.

It is essential that the retraction settings should be calibrated accurately by keeping every aspect in mind to get a well-crafted, high-quality print.

Stringing is referred to as a problem in which the print has some strands or threads of filament between two printing points. These strands occur in an open space and can completely destroy the beauty and charm of your 3D print.

When the retraction speed or retraction length cannot match, the filament will drop or ooze from the nozzle, and these oozing results in stringing.

Most of the 3D printer experts and manufacturers suggest adjusting the retraction settings to avoid the oozing and stringing problems effectively. Calibrate retraction settings according to the filament you are using and the object you are printing.

How to Avoid Stringing in Flexible Filament (TPU, TPE)

Flexible filaments such as TPU or TPE are used for 3D printing because of their amazing non-slip and impact resistance properties. Keep this fact in mind that flexible filaments are more prone to oozing and stringing but the problem can be stopped by taking care of printing settings.

  • The first and most important thing is to enable retraction settings every time you are using flexible filament.
  • Set up a perfect temperature because high temperatures can cause the problem as the filament will melt quickly and may start dropping.
  • Flexible filaments are soft, do a test print by adjusting retraction speed and retraction distance because a bit of difference can cause stringing.
  • Adjust the cooling fan according to the printing speed.
  • Focus on the flow rate of the filament from the nozzle, usually flexible filaments work well at 100% flow rate.
Sours: https://3dprinterly.com/best-retraction-length-speed-settings/
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If we think about 3d printing, the first thing that comes to mind is a machine that melts plastic while an extruder moves along 3 orthogonal axes while forming a solid object. It seems very simple, but as start to dig deeper into this technology, we quickly find out that there are countless parameters that determine the way in which this happens.

Depending on the type of model, the retraction settings can make or break your prints. If you own an Ender 3 printer (or any Bowden-type machine) the following retraction settings will definitely prove to be useful:

Being a Bowden-type printer, the Ender 3 requires a longer retraction distance and it is recommended to enable “Combing Mode” and to set it to “Within Infill”. Additionally, set the Retraction Distance to 6mm, Retraction Speed to 200mm/s, Maximum Retraction Count to 5, and Minimum Extrusion Distance Window to 10mm.

What is retraction and why is it important in 3d printing?

As you may already know, the hotend receives the filament from the extruder, which pushes the material through a toothed wheel. This thrust generates an increase in pressure inside the nozzle. If the temperature is sufficient, and the extruder motor steps are correctly calibrated, the plastic will begin to flow in the exact amount that is required to create the desired model.

The issue with this mechanism is that there is still a remaining pressure inside the barrel after the extruder motor has stopped, which forces the filament to continue flowing through the only free outlet it has (i.e. the nozzle). When printing requires the hotend to move from one point to another without depositing material, it is necessary to relieve that remaining pressure, in order to avoid the plastic from “escaping” during this movement.

The way to achieve this is to reverse the rotation of the extruder stepper motor, such that a few millimeters of filament come out of the hotend and compensate for said pressure. This reversal of rotation is called “retraction” and is a fundamental parameter to achieve printed objects with a good surface finish.

The over-extruded material from the nozzle will become thinner as the hotend moves, leaving a “thread” or “string” between two walls of the part. This is known as “stringing” and can be avoided (or at least minimized) through some printing parameters. You may not previously have heard about this term, but I’m almost sure that you have seen it before. Take a look at the following image of a chair that features a good amount of stringing.

Parameters related to retraction

First, we must make sure that the “enable retraction” box is activated, to access the retraction parameters. From now on, we will focus on Cura settings. You will find equivalent parameters on many slicers.

I should clarify that I’ll use the naming convention from Cura, but the same principles most definitely apply to all slicers.

Retraction Distance

Retraction distance tells the printer how many millimeters of filament to retract when required. Retracting only a very small distance won’t probably solve stringing, whereas exaggerating this value will cause no plastic to be available in the nozzle during the initial moments of the next extrusion.

In order to avoid this, there is the so-called “priming” setting, which returns the filament to the same position it was in before retraction. That is, if 5 mm of filament were retracted, after moving between two points without extruding, 5mm of filament will be pushed back into the nozzle.

Oftentimes, the model at hand requires too many sequential retractions during a very short period of time. If the retraction distance is too high, the gear teeth pushing the filament will start grinding it. If the filament becomes too thin, the gears will not push it but rather slide against it. As a result, no more filament will be extruded, and the print will obviously be completely ruined.

To avoid this, we are going to establish the minimum possible retraction distance that allows us to mitigate the stringing. The 3-6mm range usually works for most Bowden-type 3d printers. You can start with a retraction distance of 3mm and increase it by 1 mm if you consider it necessary.

While Ender3 printers have been on the market for several years now and are known for their reliability, many users choose to modify their settings in order to achieve better printing results. One of the most common modifications is to transform it into a direct extrusion system. While we do not recommend modifying a tested design (unless you are extremely confident of your engineering skills), you can give it a try and draw your own conclusions.

One of the advantages of a direct drive system is a more precise control of retractions. For those types of printers, start with a distance of 0.5mm and increase it in increments of that same value until you get an optimal result.

Maximum Retraction Count

This parameter allows us to define the maximum number of retractions that can be made along the same segment of filament. This way, the filament grinding mentioned above can be avoided. Start by setting this value in the range of 5 to 10. The default for Cura is 100, but it is way too high.

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window

Here you can define the length of the filament segment to which the retractions specified in “Maximum Retraction Count” will be applied. Since the retractions will be between 3 and 6mm, an appropriate value is 10mm. This way, you’ll be sure that the filament will not be damaged by excessive retractions.

Retraction Speed

This specifies how fast the extruder will rotate in reverse. It has to be fast enough to prevent the filament from leaking through the nozzle, but not excessively so since an excessive speed will also require power that the extruder motor will not be able to deliver, causing it to lose steps. A good value to start with is 20mm/s. You can afterwards always can raise this value through a stringing test (links below).

Retraction Prime Speed

This value lets you set the speed by which the material is fed back into the nozzle. This parameter lets you control the way in which the hotend is ready to continue extruding as if nothing had happened.

The retraction speed is divided into two different parameters because of a good reason. When removing the filament, the pressure is higher at the beginning of the retraction than at the end, which relieves the stress on the extruder gear. On the other hand, during priming, the pressure (and therefore the strength in the gear) increases more and more.

For this reason, priming can damage the filament more than retraction. We recommend you to use a speed 5 mm/s lower in this parameter than that the one you set in “Retraction Speed“.

Extra Prime Amount

With this parameter, you can compensate for the amount of material that was lost due to oozing. If you set the retraction distance and speed correctly, you will not need to compensate for anything, so we recommend that you leave this parameter at 0 and perform the calibration tests instead. (links below)

Recommended retraction settings for an Ender 3 (Pro / v2) printer

Due to the fact that Ender 3 printers are definitely one of the most popular printers (if not the most), I’ll get into the specific settings that I recommend and also use on my own machine. Although all printers are somewhat unique, these settings will serve as an excellent starting point.

  • Combing Mode: ON and set to “Within Infill
  • Retraction Distance: 6mm
  • Retraction Speed: 20mm/s
  • Maximum Retraction Count: 5
  • Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10mm

These settings will prove to be useful for all Bowden-type printers. You can obviously tweak these values and improve them for you specific needs. Printing tests that were designed to specifically reduce stringing will help to accelerate the fine-tuning. I list them all at the end of this article.

You may also be surprised by the fact that printing miniatures require a specific retraction configuration in order to yield the best results. Obviously, I’ll also list them right now!

Recommended retraction settings for printing miniatures with an Ender 3 (Prov / v2) printer

  • Combing Mode: ON and set to “Within Infill
  • Retraction Distance: 6mm
  • Retraction Speed: 45mm/s
  • Maximum Retraction Count: 10
  • Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 10mm

It is interesting to know that the Z-hop, a parameter that raises the Z-axis a short distance before moving without extruding and lowers it again when it reaches the next printing point, considerably increases stringing (regardless of the calibration you previously performed). I strongly recommend that you disable it, especially if you have achieved an optimal parameter setting.

Personally, this video by Makers Muse was invaluable back when I first encountered this issue.

Why is “Enable Combing Mode” recommended?

The problem with stringing is that it leads to the outer surface of your object being unpleasant to look at. If the stringing only occurred inside of the object, we would not be able to be displeased by it. Therefore, retraction only makes sense when the nozzle travels from one point to another thorugh an area that has no print layers underneath. By enabling combing mode, you can order the slicer to only move the hotend within printed areas (whenever it is possible).

There are 4 different options available to choose from, but my favorite is “within infill”. Although it increases printing time, it reduces the number of retractions to the very unavoidable minimum.

Retraction and stringing calibration tests

Temperature Tower

Although we haven’t mentioned it yet, one printing parameter that seriously affects stringing is the hotend temperature. The hotter it is, the easier the filament will flow, which will greatly increase the oozing from the nozzle. Because of this, the first thing you have to do is calibrate the temperature of your printer, until you achieve the best results. To do this, I recommend you print the following test, which consists of a temperature tower that increases by 5 ºC in a well-defined layer interval.

If you click on “Thing files” you will see a G-code file that is already compatible with the Ender3. Do not use your slicer program to generate a G-code as you usually do, as it will not vary the temperature throughout the printing. Using different processes in Cura is an option, but the appended file works perfectly.

Basic Stringing Test

Once the temperature is calibrated, disable retractions in your slicer and print the following file. Take a look at the picture and guess what it tries to asses.

The result will be a piece full of hairs between both cylinders. Re-enable retractions and compare the result with the newly printed part. From there on, increase or decrease the Retraction Speed and Retraction Distance values ​​until both cylinders are correctly printed and there are no hairs between them.

Retraction Calibration Tool

If you are not already amazed about how awesome the 3d printer community is, check out this free online tool that someone created. It allows us to create a G-Code for testing purposes that are compatible with our specific printer. The instructions are very detailed and helpful, but be sure to read them.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is retraction the same for Bowden and Direct extrusion systems?

Although enabling retraction is useful regardless of the type of printer, Bowden type machines usually require a higher retraction distance compared to direct driver printers.

The reason is the following: 3d printers that use the Bowden system (like the Ender3) place the extruder away from the hotend, and the filament is channeled through a PTFE tube. As the tube has an internal diameter of 2mm and the filament has a diameter of 1.75mm, the looseness between them requires that this difference must be compensated by increasing the retraction distance.

Direct extrusion systems lack this problem, and filament shrinkage tends to not be such a big deal.

Essentially, Bowden systems require a much longer retraction distance.

Is retraction the same for all filament types?

Luckily, PLA is a very stable polymer, so it is possible to adjust our printer to achieve almost no stringing. The same happens with ABS, although it presents other problems such as warping and cracking. Other materials, such as PETG, require a much higher temperature to melt, which favors the formation of strings as it cools down.

Flexible materials, such as TPU, compress during extrusion and stretch during retraction, so it is not very convenient to activate the retraction to print it. In this case, stringing is inevitable.

In addition to retraction settings, humidity in the filament can also increase the probability of stringing, which is why I always recommend storing our spools in an airtight container, with plenty of silica gel bags.

Conclusion

By now, you have a better understanding of all the retraction settings that are available and how they should be configured differently depending on our printer type (Bowden or Direct Drive). Bowden-type printers, like the Ender 3 (Pro and v2), require longer retraction distances. In summary, you should enable “Combing Mode” and set it to “Within Infill“. The Retraction Distance should be 6mm, the Retraction Speed 20mm/s, the Maximum Retraction Count 5, and the Minimum Extrusion Distance Window 10mm.

Sours: https://3dsolved.com/the-perfect-ender-3-pro-and-v2-retraction-settings/

Retraction is concerned with pulling the filament all the way back during its travel time. If done correctly, it will take all of the pressure from the nozzle of the printer. Virtually every 3D slicer engine available today has certain settings when it comes to getting rid of 3D printing stringing. They help ensure that you will be able to get into the sweet “no stringing” zone. This way you will be able to enjoy all of our prints with your Ender 3 machine.

Let us study Creality’s Ender 3 retraction settings with the help of the Cura slicer. It has all the relevant settings for stringing 3D printing as well as the recommended values for each filament type.

The recommended values are a good baseline and you can adjust up and down from there.

Best Retraction Settings for Ender 3

What is Retraction Travel Speed?

The retraction speed of your Ender 3 will determine precisely how fast the extruder will pull the filament out of the Bowden tube onwards through to the nozzle. This is typically in millimeters per second (mm/s). It is very simple really. The higher the overall setting, the faster will be the movement.

There is a tradeoff here though. And that is that you will need to get all of the filament strings out of the nozzle as quickly as possible. However the faster you do so, the greater will be the potential damage to the filament and ultimately your build.

How Do You Calculate Retraction Distance?

Retracting distance may be defined as the total amount of filament that the machine’s extruder will retract from its nozzle. Let us suppose the setting is set at 7 mm. Here, the extruder will be able to pull the requisite 7 mm of filament right out of the unit’s Bowden tube.

How Do You Stop The Stringing On Ender 3 Pro?

Once your Ender 3 is ready and able to push down more filaments into the nozzle, it will automatically move the same amount of filament (7mm) right back into the machine’s Bowden tube. This will lead to a momentary relief in pressure that can easily stop oozing and even prevent stringing.

Once the filament material is pushed back into the Bowden tube after its retraction, your printer will be prepared to print again. This whole exercise is also referred to as priming.

What Is A Good Retraction Distance?

As a general rule, it is a great idea to start off with low Cura settings such as 5 mm and only then proceed to adjust it either up or down by a maximum of 1 mm until you manage it just right. Your goal should always be to get it down to the lowest possible number even as you substantially reduce the stringing effect.

In this case, a reasonably good range would be 3 to 7 millimeters max. If the number is too low it won’t be able to have any reducing effect on stringing. Too high and it might damage your build and even increase your print time.

Extra Prime Amount

This setting will be of great help in compensating for any material that had been lost due to excessive oozing. Once your machine primes after retraction, it will automatically push the amount you have set beforehand

Maximum Retraction Count

This setting is used to adjust the total number of maximum retractions that may be possible in a specific area. Using this option will automatically protect your filament from damage by retracting and priming too many times. Since the extruder is using a gear with teeth that dig into the filament to push and pull it, the more your extruder retractions occur on one specific piece of filament, the more damage can occur.

Minimum Extrusion Distance Window

This window enables you to specify very precisely the length of filament on which you can enforce the ‘Maximum Retraction Count.’ For example, if you decide to set this count to a total of 5 while the Minimum Extrusion Distance Window (MEDW) is set to 10mm: In this case, the machine’s extruder will only allow a total of 5 retractions over a full 10mm piece of filament. In fact, all retraction commands will be ignored once the desired number has been reached.

Limit Support Retractions

This setting is available via a checkbox format. Once it is enabled, it will automatically stop all retractions whenever it is moving within its supports. It will still lead to a bit of stringing, but it will be restricted within the support structure only. You can verify it with a stringing test on various prints.

TPU Retraction Settings

  • Temp: 225
  • Print jerk: 10
  • Temp bed: 60
  • Retraction speed: 25m/s
  • First layer: 0.2
  • Retraction distance: 5mm
  • Print Acceleration: 300
  • Initial speed: 10m/s
  • Wall Acceleration: 300
  • Print speed: 25m/s

PLA Retraction Settings

  • Initial Layer Speed: 20 mm/s
  • Printing Temperature: 200 °C
  • Speed: 50 mm/s
  • Bed Temperature: 60 °C
  • Retraction: 6 mm @ 25 mm/s
  • Layer height: 0.12 mm
  • Initial Fan Speed: 0%
  • Infill: 20%

PETG Settings

  • Overall speed: Between 30 and 50 mm/s
  • Retraction Speed: At 40 mm/s or less
  • Retraction distance: Around 6 mm

ABS Settings

  • ABS: 6 mm retracting distance
  • Retraction Rate: St 40 mm per second

Related

Conclusion

All of the above settings can be used on the Ender 3 Cura profile and they can be further customized and tweaked to give optimal results.

Categories Ender 3Sours: https://makershop.co/ender-3-retraction-settings/

Distance ender 3 retraction

Time. I had many students and pupils, but one of them, named Oksana, was especially memorable to me. It was a dark-haired girl with black, shoulder-length hair, big boobs and a huge, round ass, which from time to time I just wanted. To pinch or at least pat with a palm.

Stop Stringing With These Retraction Settings

And with difficulty he forced himself to restrict himself to only his shoulder and not press her right there, on the street, to the nearest wall, glaring at his lips and. Squeezing her boobs in his hands: - Adrian: I shuddered and opened my eyes. Jess entered the room completely silently, I myself left the door ajar.

Now discussing:

A meter high above the sofa on which Sveta was lying. The water rushed through the hose and rushed into the intestines, patients ". Oh!", Sveta groaned.What, does it hurt. ", I asked.



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