Custom flatbed ideas

Custom flatbed ideas DEFAULT
International Full Size Jeep Association  


Old, PM
_jeep_j10's Avatar



Join Date: Feb 17,

Location: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada


custom flatbed ideas?

looking for ideas for a 75 j10 custom flatbed. include pics please.

76' J /th/quad


Old, AM

__________________ - BJ's Off-Road - Your Full-Size Jeeps Parts Specialist
Cherokee Chief - 6-inch BJ's Off-Road Lift Kit, TPI Chev , R4 with NP and gears, 35xR17, Rhino Front End, J-Truck Rear Axle, GoMango Orange.
M - Chevy, TH, R16 Michelin XZL Tires, Stock otherwise
Suburban Cummins 6BT Swap


Old, AM
5quarter's Avatar

Gear Head


Join Date: Aug 26,

Location: oregon coast


sorry no pics

waaaaay back when in the pre digicam epoch, i helped a guy build a flatbed made from 3" sch 40 pipe using weld els for the corners and the head ache rack, the cross pieces were set down so the wood decking was about 1/2 way down the pipe so stuff wouldnt just slide off

Olds Cool

Praise the Lowered


Old, PM

I can't find my pics. I built a steeledged wood deck with sliding toolboxs under the deck and stake sides (different heights) for an old truck of mine years ago ('69 F Camper Special)

Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.


Old, PM

Grease Monkey


Join Date: Apr 07,

Location: East Central Kansas


I don't have the photo's anymore, but will try to describe the one I built for a '72 Ford. Bear in mind, this was on an 8' bed 2wd with 's out back.

The deck frame was 3" channel iron 6'?x8' with cutouts for the tires so it could set down at normal bed floor height. It then got fenders from a step side bed that were notched so they could be placed over the edge of the deck keeping in line with the outer sides of the cab and low enough to just clear the tire with the spring compressed. Skirts were fabed to fill between the front of the fender and rear of the cab and running boards attached. The lower front of the fender was trimmed to match the running board height. With the fender that low the bottom rear was way to low and since I wanted to keep the feature line I had to section out and weld back together. To mount it I just bought body lift blocks that I knew were to tall and cut to size with my miter saw.

Tackling how to do the tail light was a tough decision as I wanted to use the full length unit from a '71 Torino with the sequential flasher adapted from a Thunderbird. The tail light housing and gasket was just that tad bit to wide, so what I wound up with was simply adding an inch or so of 3/16" plate to the bottom of the rear channel iron and trimmed the ends at a radius.

/TH/ Q-Trac/D44's
's on Truck Rallies

Gladiator (model unknown)
T98, D20
D44 front D53 rear
slightly rusted, heavily neglected
Mouse in the defroster has
been evicted.

I might curse because roses have thorns,
Or I might rejoice because thorns have roses.


Old, AM
J20 project's Avatar



Join Date: Dec 27,

Location: Nevada

Posts: 2,

Truck weight as it sits. Rails are ramps, Onboard air tank in back.
37ga fuel tank underneath.

BP Drivetrain

Driveshafts for all Jeeps, Constant velocity rebuilds, Replacement, Repair

Putting this back up. "Someone is gonna have to crawl under the rig"

Posting Rules

You may not post new threads

You may not post replies

You may not post attachments

You may not edit your posts

vB code is On

Smilies are On

[IMG] code is On

HTML code is Off

All times are GMT The time now is AM.


Introduction: Convert Your Pickup Truck to a Flatbed

My Dodge had a rusted bed so I decided it was time to replace it. In searching for a replacement I found it would be cheaper and easier to convert my truck to a simple flat bed. I added temporary lights so that I could continue to drive the truck during the conversion.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

The flat bed I built is 6' x 6' 4" steel frame with a wood deck. This configuration would fit any full size 6' bed truck. You can easily adjust the dimensions to fit your own truck. Finding the raw materials can be tough because you can't get the larger stock metal in most local hardware stores.
I ordered my steel from a local supplier.This cost $ for lbs of steel. The price included cuts making the price about $ US per pound. Don't be intimidated ordering from big industrial suppliers. Many of them will accept cash orders for pick-up. You may be able to get a deal buying what they consider scrap.

Things you will need

- drill and 5/16" drill bit
- welder
- reciprocating saw with metal blades or cutting torch
- metal clamps (I used all the clamps I own)
- tape measure
- soap marker
- circular saw
- grinder with wire wheel (or wire brush)
*optional cutting torch - I used this to expedite removing the old rusted bed

-Welding Gloves
-Welding Hood
-Cotton Clothing or Welding apron or jacket **(Do Not Wear Synthetic Clothing as it will melt)**
-Leather work boots

6 - treated 2x10x6
1 - treated 2x12x6
24 - carriage bolts 5/16" 2"
24' - 2" x 4" 11 gauge rectangular steel tubing
40' - 2" x 2" angle iron
* optional 6' - steel C channel
1 - trailer light kit
4 - black spray paint

trailer lights - $60
hardware/ paint $30
lumbar - $90
stock metal - $

Total cost - $

Step 2: Remove the Old Bed

First you will need to remove the tail lights. Since my truck does not have any tail lights present aside from the temporary. I skipped this step.

To remove the bed there are typically 6 bolts holding on a truck bed. Two found near the cab and four found toward the rear of the frame. You will need to use something to help break the rusted bolts free (I used pb blaster). I lost patience very quickly and decided to cut the bed off with a oxy acetylene torch. You could also use the reciprocating saw to cut the bed free from the frame.

Since I opted for the torch. I removed the plastic bed liner and cut through the bed with the torch to expose the bolts. I used the torch to cut the bolts off and now the bed can be removed.

At this point it is a good idea to do some maintenance on the frame while it is exposed. I sprayed it off with a hose to remove the mud them used a wire brush and a chipping hammer to knock off the rust. I then took a break to put a light coat of primer to protect the frame since I was out of time for the day. ( I added a layer of bed liner to the frame after i completed this instructable)

Step 3: Cut and Prep Your Materials

Cut List

4 - 6' (2"x4" rectangular tube)
6 - 10" (2" 1/8" angle)
4 - 5' 8" (2" 1/8" angle)

After you have all of the metal cut use a wire wheel or brush to clean off the mill scale at the weld locations. I also used wood clamps and some wood blocks to hold the materials in place for welding.

Step 4: Layout and Welding

The layout for this truck bed is simple the 4 rectangular tubes are tack welded at the corners. Then the angle iron is clamped in place using a scrap piece of wood 2x4 and some miscellaneous clamps then tack welded. Once all the angles are in place horizontally I used wood blocks to level the new bed in place over the frame. I used the wire wheel and grinder to clean the rusty truck frame at the weld location. The 6 pieces of 10" long 2" angle are welded to the frame of the new flat bed and to the frame of the truck. If you plan to do this on your truck make sure you check the distance between the rubber stop that keeps your rear axle from hitting the frame. You want the clearance from the bottom of the new flat bed to be greater than the distance between the stop and the axle. This will help ensure your tires won't ever rub on the new flat bed.

After all the tack welding is completed clean the slag from the welds and then methodically go through and weld each joint with a finish weld. Make sure to do this symmetrically so that the heat does not warp the metal of the new frame.

* side note: Warping will happen when you heat metal the middle it does not have anywhere to expand but when it cools it cools uniformly and contracts pulling and warping the metal towards the weld. You can actually use this to your advantage with a torch and heat bend big metal just by carefully heating specific areas and allowing them to cool creating a curve. you can also help avoid this by minimizing the welds spacing them out evenly and welding on both sides of the stock being welded. There are many resources online for this if you have problems with your welds.

I used C channel and the leftover angle iron to build a frame to protect the cab. 6ft piece of C channel and four 14" pieces of 2" angle.

After you have completed the welds clean off all of the slag and spatter with a grinder or wire wheel. I wiped down the new frame with a little alcohol and now we are ready for paint and the Wood deck.

Step 5: Cutting and Attaching the Lumber

In this step I measured out all of my lumber and cut each piece down to six feet. I wanted to use standard lumber widths to make it easier to replace the boards if needed. This worked out to six 2x10's and one 2x12 with about a 1/16" on either edge. Then on either end of each board I drilled two 5/16" holes and bolted the wood down with 5/16" carriage bolts.

Step 6: Painting and Finishing the Frame

I bought a few cans of black spray paint and painted a few coats just to protect the metal from rusting. Make sure to take the time to clean any surface rust before painting. Then make several thin coats waiting at least 30 mins in between coats.

After the paint drys I will bolt the wood deck back down. I drilled the holes first so that I could get paint into them and hopefully delay rusting.

[Thanks to everyone's comments here I have decided to coat the whole flatbed frame with bedliner. I will add this step to the instructable once I have it completed. Thanks!!]

Step 7: Attach the Tail Lights

I used regular trailer lights and just wired them into the existing trailer light wiring harness. I'm leaving the factory light harness alone.

Drill two holes on the bottom of the 2" x 4" rectangular tube and attach the lights. Then strip and connect the wires to the trailer light harness of the truck. Black to black white to white, yellow to yellow, and green to green. If you do not have a trailer light harness you can always just mount the old tail lights horizontally under the flatbed or install a trailer wiring harness.

I have used the bed several times to pick up large loads of lumber and it has done great. I plan to build a headache rack and possibly some removable sidewalls in the future but for now the truck is ready to go for the summer.

That's it I hope you like this project.

Be the First to Share

Did you make this project? Share it with us!


  • Micro:bit Contest

    Micro:bit Contest
  • Tinkercad Student Design Contest

    Tinkercad Student Design Contest
  • Lamps and Lighting Contest

    Lamps and Lighting Contest
  1. Britt alone season 5
  2. Dbz fan character maker
  3. Simple mini canvas paintings
  4. Pregnant mannequins for sale
  5. Pink gaming aesthetic

Show me really cool flatbed ideas for my StuperDuty

I'll try to get a shot of what I'm working with this weekend, but it looks pretty much like the Baha'i chase truck, minus the side panels.

No camper planned. There's a gooseneck hookup in it whose execution I feel to be a bit shoddy, so I'd like to replace it with a turnover ball gooseneck hitch, if possible. Being able to get the companion fifth wheel to work with it would be a bonus.

Sogooseneck/5th wheel use. General flatbed duties of hauling whatever crap will fit when it arises . Side kit capability useful.

It's mounted to what was a duality pickup, not a C&C, so there's that to consider.

It sticks out past the sides of the cab about 6" per side and I don't like that. I don't like the basic squarish shape of the whole thing so

Idea is to cut the corners out of the front to make them taper into the cab width. A boat tail at the front if you will, and to do the same to the rear of the bed except in a bit larger fashion. Similar to that 70s Ford posted up above. Like to keep the bed overall flat, without the fender humps over the tires pictured above.

Anyway, general idea of what I'd like to have in function, with a vague notion of form. Now I'm just fishing for ideas on how to accomplish the above with a bit of "holy crap that's cool!" creativity. :)



Seryozha felt himself blushing. - And what, wasnt it necessary. asked Olya. - No, why, it will not be worse: Lena was clearly confused, she had never had to do such intimate procedures for. Boys.

Ideas custom flatbed

The sun just rises clearly early in the morning. then an extraneous sound. A minute later you understand the sound of a boat engine.

DIY Flatbed Build, Each Step in My Process

Dont you understand, Terry, you are my best friend, and I need your help. - Help, I asked, how can I help you. Tears rolled from her eyes like a hail. I sat down on the bed and hugged Jenny. We sat huddled together for several minutes without uttering a word, and Jenny kept crying and crying.

You will also like:

Half of his cock went into Steve. After pausing briefly for Steve to get used to the new sensation, Jim drove his cock completely up Steve's ass. He passionately began to fuck his childhood friend. Steve's body was seized with a shiver of passion.

17940 17941 17942 17943 17944