Retro stair treads

Retro stair treads DEFAULT

Stair Treads

Whether you're in need of stair treads to coordinate with a hardwood floor that you're purchasing from us, or you're just doing a staircase remodel, we want to make sure you can professionally complete your staircase with premium wood stair parts. Available in over 20 different types of wood, we offer all kinds of wood stair treads including:

  • Traditional Treads - available with bullnose or flat front
  • Thick Treads - Several thicknesses available ranging from 1 1/2" all the way up to 4" thick
  • Retro Treads - used over existing treads, DIY friendly
  • Prefinished Treads - natural finish or custom color, wirebrush and other textures available
  • Starter Steps - a variety of styles such as radius returns, bow-front, etc
  • Landing Panels - any size and thickness in over 20 different wood species
  • Winding Tread Panels - traditional style with bullnose or thick treads with flat front
  • Custom Stair Treads - we can supply treads in just about any thickness, depth and width, in domestic and exotic woods

Our stair treads are always made in the USA from premium quality hardwood. We maintain a huge inventory of stair treads in our warehouse, and most custom treads orders ship in just 2 - 3 weeks.


Remodel & Replace Prefinished Stair Treads

Remodeling, Stairs, StairsJuly 25, 2021Matt Weber

New Stair Treads in No Time—Here’s How to Do It …

By Matt Weber

How To Install Stair Treads and Risers

Retro-fitting stair treads is the simplest solution for a DIY’er intent on installing hardwood treads over an existing flight of stairs. High-quality prefinished stair treads are made of solid edge-glued wood—not a veneered or engineered material—and can be used to “cap” or reface an existing tread. The primary advantage of using the prefinished stair treads is the ease of installation.

For example, the stairs shown in this article were built of lumber and covered with carpet. Once the carpet was removed, the raw lumber tread was revealed and it was downright ugly. Rather than reinstall carpet, I opted to go with hardwood stair treads to match the newly installed sapele flooring of the second floor.

By refacing the stairs with the new prefinished treads, there was no need remove the old lumber tread. This is a particularly important advantage when dealing with “pre-fab” staircases that are built in a factory and delivered to the jobsite during construction. It is impossible to remove a tread in a pre-fab staircase without completely disassembling the stairs. However, with retro treads, I only had to prep the staircase to accept the “caps,” and then install the treads and risers. Here’s how it went.

Planning Out Your Stair Treads

Obviously, the first step is to asses the number of risers and treads you need, record the measurements of your existing treads and risers, select your wood species and order your materials to suit.

I ordered the treads from, which serves as an online one-stop shop for prefinished stair treads. offers solid-wood prefinished treads and risers, in a wide variety of wood species, as well as prefinished handrails, cove molding and more. If you have a need for stair treads, the company likely has it covered, including return stair treads with mitered corners, oversized treads, open or closed treads, as well as RetroFit replacement treads, which are specially manufactured to match 3/4-inch hardwood flooring (see sidebar). Standard tread depth is 11-1/2 inches, and a variety of widths are available to meet your specifications.

stair tread overlay

Additionally, is not simply a distributor but also the tread manufacturer, and the company will custom-stain the treads to your flooring. In fact, I cut a few samples of the newly installed floorboards and mailed them to the company to match. I then ordered 1-inch-thick sapele treads, which arrived prefinished at the job site with a rich stain that was like a mirror image of the flooring—perfect.

My first step was to cut plywood reinforcement to strengthen the existing risers of my staircase.

Preparing The Staircase

After removing the old carpeting, vinyl or other floor covering, the first step is to eliminate any bull nose on the exposed lumber tread. One way is to cut it off. Using a handheld circular saw or jigsaw, cut the bull nose of the tread back flush with (or slightly behind) the existing riser. Use a flush-cut saw or a hammer and chisel to clean off the edges next to the skirt board.

I nailed plywood over the existing risers, which made the riser flush with the edge of the tread. Another option is to cut the bull nose off the tread so it is flush with the existing riser.

However, like most remodeling jobs, I ran into some unforeseen challenges. The exposed risers were made from flimsy 3/8-inch plywood, which had warped over the years. To provide more solid support for the soon-to-be-installed risers, I decided to beef up the staircase by installing new, thicker plywood over the existing risers. In doing so, I built out the thickness of the riser so it was flush with the edge of the tread, rather than cut the tread to be flush with the riser.

I make it a rule to always pre-coat any paint-grade trim before installing it. It’s cleaner and easier to simply touch-up the trim once installed, rather than paint it in place.

Note: If you’re reconstructing your staircase in any way, use screws instead of nails to avoid squeaks. Also, keep in mind that maximum riser height should be 7-3/4 inches and minimum tread run no less than 10 inches.

Next, I cut the painted riser to width.

Next, do a little dance on each stair tread in search of squeaks. If you find any, drive a 3-inch screw through the tread at the squeak location and solidly into the stringers. Continue tightening the framing around the squeak in this manner until the tread squeaks no more.

The risers are fastened with construction adhesive and finish nails.

Installing the Risers

Although made-to-order stair treads are available for purchase, I cut my own from some pre-primed MDF trim boards that I had leftover from a previous job. MDF trim boards are relatively inexpensive, easy to work with, and readily available at home-improvement stores such as Lowe’s. I pre-painted the boards with high-gloss white latex before cutting to size.

Screw down the existing treads into the stringers to eliminate any squeaks.

Cut the new risers to completely cover the existing risers. I suggest measuring and cutting each riser individually, rather than cutting them all to the same size. For example, the site-built staircase I was remodeling was constructed with slight discrepancies from riser to riser and tread to tread. Since the riser sizes didn’t match exactly, I had to measure and cut each independently to ensure a tight fit. (This same rule holds true when cutting the treads.)

The risers are fastened with construction adhesive and finish nails.

Risers can be cut to length with a miter saw, handheld circular saw, or even a hand saw. I had to rip the risers to width, which is a little trickier. It’s possible to rip the risers with a handheld circ saw with an edge guide, but you’ll get the most accurate results using a table saw with a rip fence. If you accidentally make an ugly cut, install the riser with its ugly edge down, so the thickness of the new tread hides the cut.

Cut the treads to width with a handheld circular saw or sliding miter saw.

Use construction adhesive and finish nails to install the new risers to cover the existing ones. If you’re working with thin hardwood risers, then it’s a good idea to predrill the nail holes to avoid splitting the wood.

Each tread should be measured and cut individually to account for any differences in size from tread to tread. Dry-fit each tread before installing.

Installing the Stair Treads

Individually measure and cut each stair tread to length with a handheld circular saw or sliding miter saw. To make sure you achieve a near perfect fit, I suggest using an angle finder to make sure the treads should indeed be cut at a straight 90 degrees. If the stair construction is a little out of whack, the stringers might slightly flare or contract toward the top or bottom, in which case it may help to cut the tread at a slight angle to match.

Use construction adhesive to secure each tread.

There was no need to rip the treads to width, as the standard 11-1/2 inches was the perfect size to cover the tread and leave and attractive 1/2-inch bull nose over each riser. Use plenty of construction adhesive to secure each tread and fasten with finish nails.

Fasten each tread with finish nails.

Finishing Up

I sealed all the nail holes on the new treads with fast-drying wood putty and, once it cured, I stained the putty to match the stairs. I used caulk to fill the nail holes on the risers. I then masked off all the seams between the white risers, white skirt board, and sapele risers with painters tape. Just caulk the seams, clean up your caulk lines, remove the tape, and the job is done.

Set the nails below the wood surface, fill the holes with wood filler or caulk, and finish up with a matching coat of paint.

Caulk all seams on the risers and skirt boards.

Prefinished stair treads spare you the trouble of procuring the wood, cutting and gluing-up your own hardwoods, and sanding and staining the treads. In other words, half the work is done for you, so installation takes only about 15 minutes per tread. For the do-it-yourself home remodeler, prefinished stair treads are a fast and efficient way to get the decorative results you want.

Side Note

Tread size to Match

To make installation as easy as possible, offers the RetroFit line of replacement treads made of solid edge-glued wood and specially designed to match the thickness of 3/4-inch hardwood flooring. Each RetroFit tread has a 3/4-inch body that keeps the step height within code. With 3/4-inch flooring, installing a RetroFit stair tread actually raises the step height by exactly the same height as your new flooring. The RetroFit stair tread also uses a full 1-inch bull nose along the front edge to simulate a full 1-inch stair tread once installed.

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A bird's-eye view of a poorly installed tread. Incorrect staple placement has caused this profile to crack upon installation. Also, no flooring was installed over the profile at the time of install, leaving it more susceptible to further damage and failure. - Click to enlargeA bird's-eye view of a poorly installed tread. Incorrect staple placement has caused this profile to crack upon installation. Also, no flooring was installed over the profile at the time of install, leaving it more susceptible to further damage and failure. - Click to enlarge

Nothing finishes a room off better than complementing your hardwood flooring with a beautiful hardwood staircase. Wood treads and risers are typically installed by a stair specialist, not the company installing the flooring, although some high-end wood flooring contractors also handle stairs. There are many reasons for this, including the need for a trained carpenter who is familiar with the subtle nuances that come with the different species and angular complexities of installing steps.

When you find yourself installing wood treads and risers, remember these dos and don'ts to help ensure a proper install.


Do ensure that you measure properly. For older homes that may have settled, or newer homes where workmanship is less than perfect, there are specialized tools available that can create an exact template of the tread or riser including length, end angles and depth.

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When installing glue blocks to the stringers for extra tread support, most installers will use scrap lumber and cut it to their liking. A high-quality construction adhesive should be used.When installing glue blocks to the stringers for extra tread support, most installers will use scrap lumber and cut it to their liking. A high-quality construction adhesive should be used.

Do apply "glue blocks," where possible, on all of your stringers prior to tread installation. Glue blocks are approximately 4-inch blocks, square or triangular, that can be made at the job site from scrap lumber. Where possible, these blocks should be installed at every wood-to-wood contact point on the underside of the stair. This helps maintain stability of the riser and the integrity of the stringer, which also helps ensure a solid floor without squeaks.

When installing glue blocks, follow this procedure for a professional installation.

Secure blocking to the stringers at the front, along the edge located directly behind the risers.

Install the risers with a level top edge slightly above the top edge of both the blocking and the stringers.

Never nail into a block from either a tread or a riser.

Adhere the blocking to the risers and the stringers using a construction adhesive.

Use a dimensional sized 2-by-2 piece of lumber for blocking material.

The top tread on the stairs that cannot be accessed from underneath cannot be glue-blocked. Use generous amounts of adhesive to account for the lack of glue blocks.

Support blocking can be added to the side of the stringers to increase surface contact for gluing.

{rblink 2046}Do work at least one riser ahead before installing treads. Installing two risers is one way to ensure proper strength and performance. The important thing is to remember to install riser, tread, riser, tread or install the risers first.

Do use both adhesives and fasteners when possible. This will prevent movement. The Janka hardness in some exotics may require the use of only adhesives or pre-drilled fasteners. When using just adhesives, kerf the stair bottoms first.

Do seal the sides of the tread and riser in closed stair wells. Paint can cause moisture to infiltrate the wood. Sealing edges is particularly critical on closed stairwells when paint is applied to the wall or skirt board.

Do know and follow the care and maintenance procedures. Treads and risers are created to be consistent with the care and maintenance of the matching flooring manufacturers' products.

Do nail only where there are stringers, and finish the nail holes with filler. Sink all nail holes. The fibers of the wood will fan out to help fill the nail hole, and the filler should do the rest.


Don't leave steps partially finished. This may be common sense, but I've seen jobs that were left half-done where clients could trip or splinter the wood material. This is hazardous to their health and the future of your business.

Don't fasten treads and or risers with only nails or staples. The adhesive is much more important than the fasteners. There will be times when fastening may be limited, so a good adhesive is critical.

Don't use the stringer as a level for the treads. The tops of the stringers will never be level. Rely on the front edge of the riser for your level surface.

Don't deviate from local building and construction codes. The inspector will tear out your staircase if it doesn't meet ADA and ASTM codes.

Don't assume that any two treads or risers will be the same size. This is particularly important on closed-wall installations, because the adjacent walls will vary in width.

Don't do a job without the proper tools. Money spent on the proper tools will save you tenfold on the job site. Reduce the windshield time and call-backs, and provide a quality installation.

Don't face-nail through the tread and into the riser. Nails should always go into the stringer to reduce the risk of splitting the riser and tread. Stay away from the front edge of the tread, as this is visually unattractive and you run the risk of compromising the installation of the riser.

RELATED: How I Do These Jobs: Creating Floating Stairs

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Treads Risers & Trims

The Stair Treads or "steps" at Stair Warehouse are all hand made in a true Amish Mill that specializes in stair treads. As a matter of fact, that is all they do. And they are the best treads we have ever seen. These stair treads are crafted with the finest hard wood and made to order. You can order any size and your price will be rounded up to the nearest price on our website. All you have to do is give us a call for your order or write in the comments section the specific size needed.

Our stair treads and risers are designed to be either placed on your existing steps or built on their own. We have false treads if you want something a little different. We also have landing treads for your top step, landings and balcony. Most people need skirt boards, molding and starter steps as well. So, we can make those in a flash to fit your needs.

We can make all of our stair treads and accessories in just about any species of wood like White Oak, Hickory and Brazilian Cherry. Please give us a call anytime to discuss and we should be able to help.

And as always, our free shipping is available and our prices are right!

False Starting Steps & Treads

Forget to order a bull nose on your first step? Would you like to add a bull nose to the first step of the box staircase your Builder supplied? One Bull nose kit will make a right or left hand bull nose (the tread is reversible). This is the way to efficiently take care of those pesky Designer oversights.

False treads are a great solution for upgrading an economy staircase. These fabricated kits are used to trim the edges of a carpet grade staircase with hardwood �skins�. The installed hardwood skin becomes the �show� wood at the edges of the staircase. The installation is finished with a carpet runner down the center of the staircase. The thickness of the skin creates a edge for a carpet so the finished installation truly looks �built in�.

Landing Treads & Molding

We have put together a complete line so your Installer can professionally finish the job. Our Millwork is available in all of the wood species.

We have set our items into sections that will make it easy to find Stair Starting Steps, Treads, Stair Risers, Stair Landing Treads and Moldings, and False Stair Treads.


Stair treads retro

Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads | 9″ x 27″ (Set of 13) Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads

Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads

Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads | 9″ x 27″ (Set of 13) Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads can extend the life of your high traffic hardwood stairs. Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads can reduce slips/increase traction (your treads must be attached securely to your stairs). These stair treads are ¾” thick which provides nice cushion when going up and down the stairs. Each stair tread is made of is 100% Solution dyed polyester fiber that is not only incredibly soft, but exceptionally durable. Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads are great for pets and pet owners. Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads helps your dog easily navigate your slippery staircase. Each Set of Retro Gold Frieze Stair Treads includes 13 carpet stair treads PLUS one roll of double-sided carpet tape for easy, do-it-yourself installation. Each Stair Tread is bound around the edges. You may remove your treads for cleaning and re-attach them when you are done. Add a fresh new look to your stairs today with new carpet stair treads. Made in U.S.A.

**Please Note colors may vary slightly in person due to flash photography and differences in monitor settings. Each rug/carpet is manufactured with the same colors as pictured; however they can be manufactured from slightly different “dye lots”. Meaning when the yarn is dyed it can vary in shade ever so slightly.

Tread and Riser Installation Featuring Young RetroTreads and RetroRisers

American-Made Stair Products and Parts

Birch Wood Stairs
Double Staircase
Completed Stairs

Are you looking for an easier way to refinish carpeted staircases? If so, we have the solution for you  EZTREAD®! This easy-to-install staircase refacing system will give your customers' interior steps a stunning, hardwood look for an affordable price.

Our stair treads, risers, and other parts come in an assortment of wood species and finishes to match existing wood flooring. We can also customize stains. Visit a retailer near you to view sample displays, stair treads and risers on both open and enclosed staircases, and before and after pictures of past installations.

Our products can be used by any customer, including house builders and flippers, flooring contractors, and home improvement specialists. Please reach out to us if you have questions about our staircase refacing system. We're always glad to assist you. If you are interested in being a retailer, there are still territories available, and we are always looking to add distributors to our team. Please contact us to learn more about working with us.

Choose a button below to download a file of details on that subject.  (PDF file)

Order EZTREAD® and other stair products today!

Call (302) 440-3297

About Us

EZTREAD® is a New Castle, Delaware-based manufacturing business that designs and produces a durable hardwood staircase refacing systems, including prefinished natural wood risers and treads, which give stairs a new and attractive look. We supply EZTREAD to retail stores and work with distributors to get our products to customers in different areas. Our systems feature 17 species of hardwoods that are available in a variety of stain colors.  We offer handscrapped, wirebrushed and two color techniques to compliment your floors.  UV finish is offered in semi gloss.  Special orders can be done in sateen and high gloss.

Additionally, we provide exceptional customer service. Whether you have questions about installing our products or selling them, we're always ready to offer assistance. To ensure your satisfaction, we educate our potential customers on correct installation and maintenance procedures. Because we started installing EZTREAD® ourselves (no longer offer), we know what the installer has to face and how to help you avoid costly problems. We also provide sales support to retailers. Our goal is to make sure you know everything you need to know for easy installation so that you will recommend our products to others.

Learn More


Thank you for your interest. We look forward to hearing from you soon.

(302) 440-3297

Hours of Operation
Monday - Friday: 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m.

520 South St, New Castle, DE 19720

Service Area
DE, PA, NJ, MD and surround North Eastern states

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