How to Make a Mechanical Cow Flag
A flag is a necessary item for training a cow horse.
The best option is to buy a professional flag, but sometimes their price tag can be a problem. A quality flag starts around $1, and, while it is worth every penny – and much more economical than keeping practice cattle, sometimes “it isn’t in the budget” is a final answer.
Another option is to set up a flag with a person-powered stationary bike. This is much more economical and great exercise for the guy riding the bike, but sometimes it is hard to find someone to ride the bike at the same time you want to practice.
Fortunately, horseman Charles Padilla of Santa Fe, New Mexico, shared the plans for his homemade mechanical flag, which is something that any handy person can “MacGyver” together for less than $
All of the material can be purchased at your local home improvement store or via common online retailers. Once the materials are gathered, it is a weekend project to put together.
However, this requires a few notes before you start.
First, if you are not comfortable working with electricity, this project is not for you; safety is imperative!
Second, another common phrase – “you get what you pay for” – is also in play here. This flag is very functional and certainly better than nothing, but it is not quite as versatile or powerful as a professional mechanical flag.
Basically you will build the mechanical part of the flag inside a inch toolbox. A volt battery powers a reverse-polarity controller, which is attached to a RPM high-torque motor, all wired together in series. This will power the string (and thus the flag) back and forth. The battery can be unscrewed and replaced as needed.
What You’ll Need to Make a Homemade Mechanical Flag
You’ll need basic tools – screwdriver, hammer, pliers, drill, saw and a pocket knife.
- volt lantern battery
- 10 ft. roll of galvanized hanger iron
- 16 gauge electrical wire
- Wire splice connectors
- Reverse-polarity controller with remote
- 3 inch hose clamp
- volt RPM high-torque electric geared motor
- Scrap wood and fasteners
- Two 3-inch pulleys
- inch plastic toolbox
- feet of polypropylene mason string
- Fabric scrap and safety pins to use as a flag
OPTIONAL TO BUILD MOBILE STANDARDS
- One 80 lb. bag concrete
- T-post (cut in half and capped for safety)
- Two plastic buckets
- Strapping or wire
Building the Mechanical Flag
The majority of the flag mechanism is housed inside a toolbox, which also has convenient small pockets in the lid for storage of things like the remote, string and flag when not in use.
Cut a hole in the bottom of the toolbox, and place the motor so that motor shaft sticks through the hole.
Secure the motor using scrap wood, screws and hose clamp. Secure the pulley to the motor by pinning it to the motor shaft.
Secure the controller to the toolbox. Wire the controller to the motor.
Secure the battery using hanger iron and screws. Then wire the battery to the reverse-polarity controller, which in turn connects to the motor. As a safety measure, disconnect the battery when you’re not using the flag.
It is important that the controller is reverse polarity so that it goes back and forth. If you purchase the right one, it will come with its own remote control so you don’t have to program the remote control to operate the controller. You might also consider adding a wrist hanger to the remote so you don’t drop it while you’re riding.
The rpm motor is powerful enough for a slow trot when working – if you want it faster, you’ll need a bigger motor and modified pulleys.
Next, you need standards – the stationary posts between which the flag moves. You might already have something in your arena like a wall or portable panels, but if not, T-posts, set in concrete in a plastic buckets, will work as a mobile setup. Make sure the top of the T-posts have caps for safety purposes. The off-side pulley is wired to the standard.
Then, it’s a simple matter of hooking up the toolbox, looping the string through the pulleys and adding the flag. Decide how big you want your flag setup to be – usually feet is enough.
Create or install your standards. Install the toolbox housing and the far side pulley, add the string in both pulleys and add the flag.
Then you’re ready to get to work.
Most natural horsemanship advocates use a flag (or a swinging rope) to apply pressure to the horse, and this pressure is applied at varying levels of intensity. When the horse does what you want, the pressure is removed thats the horses reward for doing what you want (the removal of pressure).
If youre wondering what a flag is, the homemade version is simply a plastic bag tied to the end of long quirt/whip and then you cut the dangling part of the bag into 1 inch wide strips so the plastic bag becomes your fluttering flag.
When used in this way, the flag (or you can swing a rope around) is a very effective method of getting the horse to move, or run at the speed and in the direction that you want. But there are also ways you can modify this technique to reduce or eliminate the domination (force) of it and increase the connection, play, love and understanding between you and the horse.
When modified in these following ways, using the flag allows us to be SOFTER and to use less pressure to communicate our desires to our horse:
1. The horse must not be afraid of the flag. You will need to allow your horse to explore the flag; sniff it, mouth it, bite the handle of the whip, etc. In the beginning, you may need to wrap your hand around the flag to keep it still and quiet when your horse first explores it. Then slowly rub the flag over your horses body; maybe start with his chest and use the end of the whip as a scratching tool, rubbing and scratching as your horse likes.
Maybe thats enough for the first day. Or maybe your horse is inviting more. Then move to the shoulder and withers. Maybe you need to stop there for a while. Then move the flag to scratch over the rump, under the belly, along the neck, and very gently around the face. At any point, perhaps you stop and let the horse explore the flag again with his lips, or sniff it.
Whenever you sense your horse has had enough, you stop for the day. Maybe you spend 5 days just getting your horse used to the flag. Everything is done by FEEL, there is no technique here, it is all unique to your horse and wherever you are at in your relationship with your horse. If your horse has been abused, you may need to go very slowly. If your horse trusts you deeply, maybe you can go faster. Maybe you need to rub the flag all over your own body first. Follow your intuition your gut can always listen to your horse. Get out of your head and into your gut and you will know.
It is best if this entire process is done with your horse completely at liberty no halter, nothing restraining him. A horse who submits to disturbing stimulus (the noisy, scary flag) because he feels he has no choice and he has been ruthlessly trained to submit, may appear to be moving in the right direction. But it is just one more variation of dominance; where the horse appears to willingly do what you ask, but if you removed the halter (or bridle) the horse would take off. That is not trust, or connection, or exploration, that is just dominance.
Even after you start using the flag to encourage your horse to get some exercise, or to set boundaries at feeding time, you repeatedly come back to this place of letting your horse explore the flag and rubbing him with it to make sure he does not develop a fear of it, and so that it remains a positive stimulus.
2. The flag is only used to ask or communicate. Never to force, scare, pressure, or dominate your horse. And as such, your usage of the flag (or swinging rope) must be totally geared to your unique horse! Horses are individual beings, with personalities and quirks, and history and preferences and opinions. So why would one technique work the same way for every horse, every time? Its exactly the same thing with kids I have to handle each of my 3 kids completely differently, because they like different levels and versions of ask, its simply a personality/preference thing.
For example, theres no way my daughters pony Syrup would do anything without the flag you could try bringing up your energy (Syrup: Hah bring it! Im a master with energy!), waving your arms, jumping up and down, running straight at him, or swinging a rope till the cows come home, and he would just ignore you and calmly eat grass. But with the flag, he would grumpily say, Oh all right, fine. and start moving. THEN after he understood what we wanted and that it was for HIS wellbeing, he could be asked with just a rope shake.
On the other hand, if Im free lunging the horses, my horse Zorra can be asked with a wiggle of the fingers, or sometimes just a point of one finger, or a look in a direction, and shes off. She doesnt even need the flag, or a rope, or any other kind of cue. But then she was first trained by a highly sensitive cowboy whose cue to half-halt was raising his shoulder an inch (for example).
BUT at feeding time, Zorra can be incredibly pushy because her sister was a constant bully, so for 9 years she has learned to grab food fast and push to get what she wants. So when Im giving the horses their vitamins and supplements, or filling the slow feeders, I need to use the flag to set boundaries with her.
3. Use the flag in a peaceful, playful manner. When you have the flag in your hands, its super easy to default to an energy (feeling) of control and dominance. So you may have to actively, consciously control your energy (feeling) and intention until youve burned some new neural pathways in your brain!
Remember, using the flag should never be scary, it should be playful. It is simply a cue that can be used at a greater distance and in a softer manner than if we had to bring up our own energy and then use our physical body at the strength of cue necessary to transmit understanding. And used this way, it allows us to be calmer and have more fun! Which of course is more enjoyable for the horse. A friend of mine sums this up nicely:
I didnt use a whip or flag for a year, because a trainer I admire insists they just cant be used ethically, due to horses knowing them as tools of oppression etc etc. Plus I wanted to be able to function without tools. And, I got over-flagged at my last trainers place, holy shit, all that waving of plastic bags sure got obnoxious! AND all that justification of pressure and all the technical gradients thereofphew, way too much.
BUTI like that I dont have to get angry if I have a tool that works at a longer distance. If I have to run or step forward to make my point (eg. Dont bite your sister to get her to move over!), I lose all that time and then I confuse Spero with all that dispersed energy/overblown intensity because Im trying to be big. With the flag I can just say firmly, No, Spero, not like that, while keeping my energy steady and adding the tiniest consequence (see this plastic bag???). So much less stress for both of us. Also I do my best to make it totally not a tool of intimidation the rest of the time (i.e. encouraging him to come near while I hold it still, letting him touch it, etc).
I think Spero needs help in both directions clearer, firmer, more explicit NOs, when hes bad, and big juicy lovey hoorays when hes good. So I was working with the flag and treats/voice/love/scratches, mostly all the latter and using the flag just to make boundaries nice and clear. Strangely enough, everything we had been trying to do using our other style of training, but he just wasnt getting for months, he could do with a little help from the flag.
Yesterday I found the other edge with Amalia I tried to use the flag on her (just had it in my hand and sort of absentmindedly started using it to hurry her up) and she gave me a withering look and slowly walked away to a corner. I had to apologize and spend some no-expectation time with her to bring myself out of the subtly bossy place Id defaulted to before she wanted to connect again. She is not a space invader (hehe) and she also has a certain brand of dignity. Having things waved at her has always pissed her off, and I can see why! Again, so different for each horse!
4. Explain WHY you are using the flag, and why its in your horses best interest. And if you cant explain why, then maybe you shouldnt be doing it! Saying, My trainer said we should do this. is not a good reason why and your horse knows it. So you need to get clear first, on exactly why and how what youre asking for is beneficial to your horse.
During the summer, my daughter Zara and I free lunged the horses every other day, using first the flag, and then as they understood our cues, only a rope shake was needed, then only a hand signal for Zorra. But we always explained to them why we were asking them to trot and run around the field: Come on guys, lets go get some exercise, so you can keep having free access to all this lovely grass. And remember how good you feel afterwards? Your blood is flowing, your joints move easily, your back feels good. Just like we have to exercise to stay in good, healthy condition, so do you, lets do this thing!
So you see, when you explain to your horse WHY what youre asking for is a good thing, your intention shifts from control (See what I can make this other being do!) to help, positivity and usually playfulness. Now your horse is free to experience the flag and what youre using it to ask for, with lightness and fun. Your horse has instant, visceral knowledge of the energy (or feeling) you are coming to him with, and so even if he doesnt feel like exercising, he can feel that youre on his side; youve got his back. When he feels better after exercising, youll have just built a piece of trust with him, and deepened the intimacy of your relationship.
Remember that true intimacy, a real friendship with a horse (or human) is never clear-cut! It is always going to be messy in places, along with frustrating, hurtful and confusing and difficult. But at other times it will also be magnificent and glorious, amazing, rewarding, joyous and fun! And the crappy, difficult times are okay, because you are both aware that you have an unshakeable commitment to each other, and your end goal of deep love and connection is the same.
As long as you stay connected to your gut above all else and use that feeling, sensing part of your gut to listen to your horse, you will get there!
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Lots of trainers tie a plastic bag or a flag on the end of a stick and call it a training tool.
When the stick is used, the plastic bag/flag makes a whooshing noise that frightens horses every time it’s waved near them.
If a horse is already worried or frightened when you approach, you certainly don’t need anything else to frighten him.
And if a horse has never been saddled, flapping a plastic bag or flag on a stick won’t help the horse to accept the saddle.
Some trainers justify using a flag or a long stick to stroke a frightened horse, by saying that the horse is too dangerous to approach and might bite or strike or kick them.
Others say that using a flag or an artificial hand to handle a horse’s legs, is safer than using your own hand.
One of the reasons I made myStarting a Horse Under Saddle Online Clinicwas to demonstrate how to handle every horses legs without flags and fights.
Here’s the thing.
Handling frightened horses and starting horses under saddle can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing and you don’t have the relevant skills.
If you feel frightened of being bitten or kicked or bucked off, you shouldn’t be handling a frightened horse.
If you think you need a flag or a long stick or an artificial hand to stroke a horse or handle his legs, you shouldn’t be handling the horse.
A frightened horse only bites and strikes and kicks as a last means of defence when he can see no alternative.
It’s not fair to such a horse to use frightening artificial tools to make up for your lack of skill and experience.
You need to develop your skills by handling easier horses and gradually build up to handling the more difficult horses.
A frightened horse doesn’t want you anywhere near him, so he’ll be very worried when you approach.
He’s already frightened, so you certainly don’t need a plastic bag making a frightening whooshing noise extending from your arm.
Instead of waving anything or flapping anything at a frightened horse, the first thing you must do is simply go to him and show him you’re not going to hurt him.
This is the start of overcoming the horse’s fear of humans.
Flapping things at him won’t help to achieve this.
Neither will stroking him with a long stick.
Some trainers ride another horse and use a flag on a stick to chase a frightened young horse in a round yard.
The trainer feels safe and secure sitting on the other horse, while the young horse runs in fear.
This will never help any horse to overcome his fear of humans and it won’t teach him to move forward when a rider is on his back.
Chasing a horse from the ground or from another horse will merely teach him to run in fear.
When a young horse is first ridden, the rider must teach the horse to be relaxed and confident and to respond to his signals.
Every horse must be taught to move forward one step at a time.
Whenever we work with any horse, we should always try to use the least amount of pressure to achieve our desired response.
Always start with the lightest touch and the least amount of pressure.
There’s never any need for a tool that flaps around and makes a frightening whooshing noise.
There’s never a need to apply that much pressure to any horse.
It’s way too much pressure and many horses can’t cope.
Learn more on this subject
We like Manna Pro products, particularly their "Family Farm" line of complete feeds. They are good quality, reasonably priced, and yes we pick them up, too, at our local Wal-Mart store.
The value of these products doesn't end when we feed the horse. As trainer / clinician Tony Sumner showed us, the empty Manna Pro bags are perfect for making "thumpers" that are incredibly useful tools for safely desensitizing horses.
We fold two Manna Pro bags over each other. We then roll up the top ends and wrap them with some duct tape to make a handle. Now we have a "thumper" we can use to touch and "thump" the horse.
The idea here is to be able to "thump" the horse all over with something that is bulky but not harmful to get him used to the contact. Many horses recognize the smell of the "thumper" bags and therefore are more curious and less reactive.
For a complete discussion on working horses with a thumper, please click Here.
Working with the "thumper"
Getting back to those scary places
Flag diy horse training
And in the hallway, besides him, there was also a couple of people of Caucasian nationality. A sort of Pat and Patachon: tall, skinny and small fat, both unshaven, in sweatpants, jackets, caps, with chains around their necks. Oyyyy. And on the little one and the notorious red moccasins: And both flushed, eyebrows frowned, the little one has hairy fists clenched menacingly.Clinton Anderson Presents: Gaining Control and Respect on the Ground
That he is a certain demon Diamir. More precisely, the repository of several entities at once and all the otherworldly, transcendent and infernal evil and the whole world. That is outside this earthly world.
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Soon a nurse came in and told Dasha to take off her pants and lie on my lap. Dasha began to cry that she was afraid, but I knelt her down and took off her panties and breeches. The nurse took a match with a coiled cotton ball and ran it over the sphincter ring. Dasha shrank, but felt that it did not hurt to relax the muscles of her buttocks.