If you need a crankshaft that's dependable, but don't want to empty your bank account, then Eagle Specialty Products has the crankshaft solution. These cast steel crankshafts for Chevy feature .092 radii on the rod and main journals and a snout for increased strength. Eagle crankshafts are inspected for dimension, size and stroke accuracy. Eagle crankshafts have a journal finish of 6 R.A. or less and a target bob weight of +/- 2 percent for a reduced balancing time. Eagle cast steel crankshafts are rated to support up to 500 horsepower.
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Rear Main Seal
Planning a stroker build? Here are a few things you should know before you get started. It wasn’t all that long ago (okay, LBJ was president and Bonanza was a hit TV show so maybe it was a long time ago) that a factory 327 / 350 hp small-block has serious street cred' and Chevy’s 427 making 435 horsepower was boulevard king. Today, it’s a walk in the park to build a 500 hp small-block and a 650 hp big-block Chevy with purely aftermarket parts–but these engines enjoy lots of cubic inches.
The easiest way to get to those monster horsepower and torque numbers is to bump the cubes. The classic line that there’s no replacement for displacement has fed an entire culture of engine builders whose only goal in life is pushing the limits of displacement. We’re going to fan those flames by running through the popular small- and big-block Chevy stroker combinations to give you an idea of what’s possible.
There are dozens more bore and stroke options than are illustrated in these three family tree tables. Experimenting with your own custom bore and stroke combination can be fun and the math for computing these is very simple. The shortcut equation looks like this:
Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.7854 x Number of Cylinders
As an example:
4.31 x 4.31 x 4.5 x 0.7854 x 8 = 525.2 cubic inches
To begin with the traditional small-block, the given standard is the ubiquitous 350. With its 4.00-inch bore and 3.48-inch stroke, at one time it was the largest production small-block Chevy. That was quickly followed by the 4.125-inch bore and 3.75-inch stroke 400 cousin and it didn’t take long for builders to grind the main journals on a 400 crank down to the 350’s smaller journal size, stuff it in a 0.030-over 350 block and create what became the omnipresent 383. For Chevy street enthusiasts, this is where the stroker world begins.
Adding a longer arm has become such a common practice that many overlook the details that make these packages successful. Adding a stroker crank is often not a bolt-in affair and can require some meticulous block massaging for. At the minimum, clearance needs to be checked everywhere! However, based on the learning curves of a generation of small-block engine builders, there are plenty of engine kits and packages out there that offer the exact parts you need.
Another area to consider is external versus internal balancing. The original 400 small-block and 454 big-block Chevys were both displacement escalations of earlier engines and their longer strokes required the expedient move to external offset balance weight. These are identified by the additional weights added to the harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate. Certain budget-based stroker crank packages reduce cost by retaining this external balance configuration but the proper approach is to make these stroker packages neutral balance.
The reason this is important directly relates to higher engine speeds. Using a balancer or flywheel with what essentially becomes an eccentric weight hanging off both ends of the crankshaft is not conducive to longterm crankshaft or bearing life at high rpm. External balancing is acceptable for low rpm street engines because counterweight placed closer to the crankshaft’s fore-aft midpoint has less effect than weight placed at the extreme ends of the crank.
Another good reason for opting for a complete rotating assembly or at least purchasing the package from a professional engine builder is the concept of choosing a set of rods that are designed to work with the engine’s deck height and piston compression height. For example, pistons for a longer stroke can require a longer rod just to allow the piston to clear the counterweights when the piston moves to bottom dead center.
Stroking an LS engine is even more critical. GM shortened the length of the barrel or cylinder sleeves on all the Gen III and IV engines. Adding a longer stroke moves the piston over a greater distance, which also pulls the piston farther out of the bottom of the cylinder. With aluminum blocks limited to a minor overbore (unless you’re willing to step up to larger diameter sleeves like from Darton), adding stroke is limited to a maximum of 4.125 inches. Many conservative engine builders won’t go beyond 4.000-inches because even then the piston skirt begins to pull out of the sleeve slightly at bottom dead center (BDC).
When this longer stroke pulls the piston’s skirt out the bottom of the bore, this demands that the piston be designed to prevent the widest part of the piston (often called the gauge point) not extend past the bottom of the cylinder at BDC.
If the piston guide point extends past BDC, the piston will rock, and the end of the cylinder sleeve becomes a very efficient lathe that will peel aluminum right off the piston skirt– destroying the pistons. You don’t want that.
These are just some of the considerations that go into choosing a stroker engine package and why professional guidance is a great way to prevent small problems from becoming very expensive, bigger issues. After all, the whole idea here is to build a thumpin’ engine that will pin you to the seat back when you plant the throttle pedal.
Below are some of the most popular Chevy stroker combos and their subsequent bores and strokes.
**Note: these combinations all assume a standard small-block deck height.
** Tall Deck Block
*10.200 Deck Height (9.800 std)
***5.00 inch bore spacing block and 10.700 deck
**** 5.30-inch bore spacing and 10.70 deck
Is a stroker crank part of your next build? That factory block may need some massaging to make it fit. Here's how to make more real estate in your crankcase.
Stoker engine have been popular for many years, but there are some pitfalls that can bite you if you are attempting to stroke a stock-block engine. The longer throws on a stroker crank naturally swing the big end of the rod out farther toward the pan rails on any block. This can be problematic on stock factory blocks because they often do not have enough room to accommodate the extra stroke length without interference at the pan rail or other areas in the lower block or crankcase assembly such as the bottom of a cylinder. The most common area of interference is between the rod bolt nut or cap screw and the lower portion of the cylinder adjacent to the oil pan rail or the pan rail itself. To check this, you must do a mock assembly and determine where to grind the block for clearance.
To accomplish this, mock up the short block with all eight rods and pistons installed on the crankshaft. This will allow you to slowly rotate the assembly to see what hits and where to determine what you can do about it. On a stock block you will likely not be able to rotate the crank completely through all 360 degrees of rotation without hitting something. A good example is a 383 Chevy. Some stock blocks can handle it, others can’t. It often depends on the rod and the type of fasteners. Rods with cap screw will sometime clear, but rods with large rod bolt nuts are sure to find interference. In some cases, certain rod bolts will also find interference with the cam lobes on at least a few cylinders. That becomes a bigger problem, but is also a reason to install the cam and timing set to verify clearance before final assembly.
You may run into the interference problem before you even finish mocking the short block. To avoid this, many builders will just do one cylinder at a time using the appropriate rod and piston for that cylinder. The rod bolt or cap screw should be thoroughly snugged down, but it does not have to be torqued for this procedure. Using this method, install a rod and piston and slowly rotate the engine through it travel. Note any interference and use a felt tipped marker to outline where grinding will be necessary. Also take note of approximately how much grinding will be requird since it possible to strike a water jacket in some cases.
Since you will be reassembling to check your work, it is a good idea to use an older set of bearings to avoid getting any grinding dust on your new bearings. Everything will have to be thoroughly cleaned prior to final assembly. It often takes multiple reassembles to finally gain the necessary clearance. Work slowly and use a flashlight and extendable mirror if necessary. The minimum acceptable clearance is 0.060 – 0.080-inch between all moving parts and the block. You can check this with a feeler gauge or welding rod of the appropriate thickness. The reason for using a mirror is to make certain the clearance doesn’t close where you can’t easily see it or measure it.
To avoid striking water, always grind only the minimum amount necessary to obtain the required clearance. It doesn’t have to be pretty, but you should smooth it in just like you do when you are deburring a block. If you used a felt tip marker to outline the grinding area, you can generally grind until you take out your line and that will be close to sufficient; subject of course to actual measurement.
The crank itself is less likely to encounter interference but check all the throws carefully where they swing past the main webs and the main bearing caps, just in case. We have also seen cases where the crank encounters interference around the rear main. So, in addition to visual inspection, you must also feel and listen for tiny thumps or grinding as you rotate the assembly through this area. Anything that sounds like metal to metal contact must be investigated and corrected. Once you have completed your clearancing efforts, you can go back in and polish up some of the areas before sending the block for a very through cleaning. As you can easily appreciate grinding particles are the last thing you want floating through your oiling system.
If you have the option of changing rods or rod bolts you may escape some of the tedious grinding work, but not in every case. Using rod bolts with smaller head ten-point cap screws is almost always a favorable move. It may not completely cure the problem, but it can mean less grinding and a better chance of avoiding hitting a water jacket. Another thing to check with a stroker crank is pan clearance If you use a stock oil pain with a built-in separator or partial windage tray, you may find that a stroker assembly will hit the tray at some point. The pan and windage tray will have to be clearance via grinding just like the block.
Most aftermarket cylinder blocks are already clearanced for stroker applications, and they specify how much stroke the block can accommodate. But you can never assume anything, so you still must perform the appropriate checks as described above. This also applies to reconditioned blocks. If you study an aftermarket block you can see the built-in notches that provide clearance for the rods. This gives you some idea where to look on your own block if you are still using a stock block. Most OEM performance blocks also accommodate extra stroke clearance, but again, checking is always the byword.
With the popularity of stroker engines this extra work to clearance the block is a small price to pay for the power gains you will enjoy from the additional displacement. With proper clearancing your engine should be trouble free for many miles of cruising or racing.
The Ultimate Guide to the Chevy 383 Stroker
Car Craft has scoured the earth to assemble all the details around building a stroker 383 Chevy.
If the small-block Chevy is the most predominant powerplant in the musclecar world, the 383 could very well be the most popular displacement. In a world where cubic inches are king, it doesn't make much sense to build a 350ci small-block when you can build a 383 for virtually the same price. In the old days, car crafters pillaged unsuspecting 400ci engines for their cranks and connecting rods. Today, the aftermarket is bulging with ridiculously affordable cast cranks. When you can buy a brand-new, fully machined, and ready-to-install cast 3.75-inch stroker crank for $175, there's no reason to build a plain vanilla 350. This giant section is devoted exclusively to the design, creation, building, and testing of the 383ci stroker small-block Chevy.
The Origin Of The SpeciesFirst of all, Chevy never built a production 383. Secondly, the 383 did not just fall out of the sky one bright, clear summer afternoon. Sometime roughly 30-odd years ago, a creative small-block engine builder realized that if he machined the main journals of a 400ci small-block crank to fit in a 350 block, the longer arm would add roughly 28 ci to a 0.030-overbored small-block Chevy. This happens because the 400 small-block uses a 3.75-inch stroke compared with the 350's 3.48-inch stroke. Add in a 0.030-inch overbore and the displacement formula spits out 382.6 ci, which car crafters have conveniently rounded off to 383.
While the standard 383 is the most common form of stroker small-block, there are several variations to this theme. The first question might be: Why not just build a 400ci small-block and take advantage of the additional cubic inches? In the early days of the 383, many enthusiasts were under the mistaken impression that the 400 small-block was prone to overheating, so using a 350 block was considered a better way to go. Today, finding a 400ci standard-bore production block is becoming increasingly difficult, which is why the 383 has remained popular. The following is a selection of the variations on the stroker small-block concept.
|377||4.155||3.48||400 block (+0.030), 350 crank|
|377||4.000||3.75||350 block standard bore, 400 crank|
|383||4.030||3.75||350 block (+0.030), 400 crank|
|388||4.060||3.75||350 block (+0.060), 400 crank|
|395||4.030||3.875||350 block (+0.030), custom crank|
|401||4.060||3.875||350 block (+0.060), custom crank|
Stroke Stuffing All production small-block Chevys share the same deck height of 9.025 inches. Stroke, connecting-rod length, and block deck height are the variables the engine designer must play with when creating a new engine. In the case of the stroker small-block Chevy, it comes down to squeezing a bigger arm into a standard small-block. The original 265ci small-block used a 3.75-inch bore and a 3.00-inch stroke. When the time came to design the 400, Chevy engineers had to stuff a 3.75-inch stroke into the 265's same block architecture. Bumping the stroke required changing a few other details as well. Instead of moving the piston's wristpin location upward, they shortened the connecting rod. All stock small-block Chevy connecting rods measure 5.70 inches, except for the 400, which measures 5.565 inches. The difference is 0.135 inch, which just happens to be exactly half of the added stroke at 0.270 inch. Let's add up the numbers to see how this works. The formula is simple: Half the stroke, plus rod length, plus piston compression height needs to fit within the block deck height. To define everything, the deck height is the distance from the crank centerline to the head surface of the block. Compression height is the measurement from the wristpin centerline to the flat portion of the piston. The numbers lay out as follows:
Reciprocating component height: 1/2 stroke + rod length + piston compression height350ci component height: (3.48/2) + 5.70 + 1.56 = 9.00 inches400ci component height: (3.75/2) + 5.565 + 1.56 = 9.00 inchesThe small-block Chevy standard deck height is 9.025 inches.Production small-block Chevys are built with the piston roughly 0.025 inch below the deck.
Based on this information, the earliest 383s were built using stock 5.565-inch-long connecting rods because this combination allowed using a 350 compression height piston. However, this creates a severe rod-length-to-stroke relationship (rod length divided by stroke), producing a ratio of 1.48:1 on a 400, while the 350 uses both a shorter stroke and a longer rod to produce a ratio of 1.64:1. This may not sound like a big deal, but it was clear from these early engines that the short 400 rod pushed the piston into the cylinder wall pretty hard and was not happy at engine speeds more than 6,000 rpm.
This led to the better idea of combining the longer 5.70-inch 350 rod with the 3.75-inch stroke crank, which made the rod angularity much gentler on the cylinder wall. Of course, this requires a custom piston with a shorter compression height. For example, a typical 383 piston intended for a 5.7-inch-long connecting rod will have a compression height of 1.425 inches to create that same 9.00 deck height. This allows up to 0.025 inch of room to mill the deck to create a zero deck height between the top of the piston and the deck of the block. As the length of the connecting rod increases, the piston's compression height shortens and the wristpin moves closer to the ring package. At some point, adding a longer rod will push the wristpin too far into the ring package, which reduces piston stability at higher engine speeds. While there are many custom pistons with the wristpin in the ring pack, there are limitations to the minimum piston compression height. Many engine builders will limit minimum compression height to 1.00 inch. For example, a small-block Chevy with a 4.00-inch stroke and a 6.00-inch rod will require a very short 1.00-inch compression height to squeeze it all into a standard-deck-height small-block. SRP makes a very short piston for this specific application, although the pin most definitely intrudes into the oil ring land.
Internal Vs. External BalanceHere's where it gets fun. When Chevy engineers pulled out their slide rules and put their pencils to the drawing board in the late '60s to design the 400ci small-block, it meant adding counterweight to the crankshaft to properly offset the longer stroke. There wasn't room in the crankcase to move the crank counterweights away from the crank centerline because the weights would hit the block. Instead, the designers added weight at the flywheel/flexplate and harmonic balancer ends of the crankshaft, creating an externally balanced engine. The 400 is the only Gen I small-block that requires offset balance weights on both ends of the crank. This means that most standard 383 rotator packages use an externally balanced crank that requires a 400-style offset weight balancer and flywheel/flexplate.
While externally balanced engines have survived for decades, heavy external weights are more likely to put a twist in the crank at higher engine speeds. To minimize this, many 383 cranks are also offered internally balanced. This requires Mallory, or heavy metal, to be added to the crank throws to offset the amount of weight normally added to the balancer and flywheel/flexplate. This is a more expensive process, but internal balance does offer durability advantages. Several crank manufacturers offer an internal balance option for 383 stroker packages either as separate cranks or complete rotator packages.
One-piece rear main seal stroker cranks also demand attention to a critical balance issue. A two-piece rear main seal crank has a small offset weight incorporated into the flywheel/flexplate flange that does not exist on one-piece rear main seal cranks. As a result, most one-piece rear main seal crankshafts require offset weight on the flywheel/flexplate. But since one-piece cranks have a unique flange bolt pattern, all one-piece flywheels/flexplates come with the required offset weight.
This is fine until you realize that several crank companies also offer internally balanced, one-piece rear main seal 383 stroker cranks. Balancing them requires eliminating the offset weight from the flywheel/flexplate. For flexplates, this means removing the weight that is usually welded in place. For flywheels, weight is not added but instead removed from the opposite side of the flywheel. Zero-balancing a one-piece flywheel means drilling holes 180 degrees from the original holes to zero-balance the flywheel and prevent vibration.
Two-Piece Vs. One-Piece Seals From 1955 to 1985, all small-block Chevys were built with two-piece rear main seals. Unfortunately, this seal design is prone to leaking, so in 1986, GM redesigned the small-block with a one-piece rear main seal. This changed the rear crankshaft flange design to accommodate the one-piece seal. At first, no crankshaft companies were building one-piece performance stroker crankshafts, which required an adapter. However, all the major crank companies now offer 383 crankshafts in two-piece and one-piece rear main seal versions.
While the older two-piece crankshaft can be adapted for use in a newer one-piece block, the one-piece crank cannot be retrofitted to the two-piece block. That's just as well because there are some real advantages to using the one-piece rear main seal blocks to build a 383. We'll run through a quick version of a buildup of one of these engines, but the one-piece seal combined with the advantages of using a hydraulic roller cam in these same blocks is well worth the effort. It's important to know the one-piece crank also uses a smaller flywheel bolt pattern compared with the early two-piece design, so flywheels and flexplates do not interchange between these two flange designs.
Internal ClearancingStuffing a 3.75-inch stroke crank into a block designed for a 1/4-inch-shorter arm requires minor trimming. The first area for attention is where the rods swing by the base of the block just inboard of the oil-pan rail. If you are building a 383 for the first time, mock up the crank and rods with dummy pistons so the rods swing in their proper orientation. The rod bolt nuts (or bolt heads for capscrew rods) will probably either hit the block or come extremely close, requiring clearancing with a die grinder and a carbide cutter designed for cast iron. The key is to remove as little iron as possible because there is a water jacket directly beneath the area you will be grinding. Most blocks will require clearancing at the base of each cylinder, and many will also need a slight amount of grinding just on the inside edge of the pan rail. The extent of the grinding will depend on the rod design and position of the rod bolts. The pan rail may not always need to be clearanced.
There's a second and equally important internal clearance issue on 383s between the camshaft and the connecting rods. Because of the additional stroke, the upper portion of the big end of the connecting rod swings very close to the camshaft. Using stock 5.7-inch rods in a 383 requires grinding the leading edge of the rod near the bolt on rods 1, 2, 5, and 6. One way to help with this clearance to use a new rod bolt from ARP (PN 134-6027, $65.88, summitracing.com), which offers additional bolt head clearance for the camshaft. Small-base-circle cams are another suggestion when building a 383 stroker motor. The base circle is the starting point for any lobe lift. Since maximum lobe height on any cam cannot be larger than the diameter of the cam journals, one way to gain lift with a cam is with a smaller base circle. Big-lift roller cams often present the biggest clearance problems with a 383, so this is something that should certainly be checked when trial-fitting your next 383. Cam phasing is also critical to this effort, so when test-assembling the engine, the cam should be accurately degreed to ensure proper clearance between the cam lobes and the rods. Our friends at Jim Grubbs Motorsports (JGM) recommend a minimum clearance of 0.020 inch that can be measured using a long feeler gauge. Using clay doesn't really work because it tends to smear rather than cut cleanly.
The staff at JGM also told us they prefer I-beam over the H-beam rods for all small-block Chevy stroker applications because the H-beams often require radical block clearancing. In fact, JGM's Jeff Latimes says that they've had to clearance a block using H-beam rods with a standard 3.48-inch stroke crank. In that same area, internally balanced cranks place the additional mass on the rear counterweight, which often creates clearance issues right at the oil-pan rail. This sometimes requires reshaping the inside edge of the oil pan to clear the counterweight. The procedure is to mount the pan on the pan rail with the crank in place and rotate the crank for clearance without the gasket. If the pan clears, it will have the same or more clearance with the gasket. JGM also prefers the Fel-Pro one-piece molded pan gasket not only for ease of installation, but also for its additional clearance.
Compression LessonsOne way to squeeze every last ounce of power out of your engine is by carefully selecting the parts and blueprinting the engine. Compression ratio is a great place to enhance power while still using pump gas. The variables that come into play include piston top configuration (flat, dished, or domed), piston deck height, head gasket thickness, and combustion chamber volume. Two other variables are bore and stroke. Let's assume we're building a typical 4.030-inch-bore, 3.75-inch-stroke 383. We'll run through several classic combinations to generate a pump-gas-friendly compression ratio. We won't get into camshaft selection here, but basically with a longer-duration cam with more overlap, you can afford to pump the compression slightly to offset the loss of cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds.
An important point worth mentioning is to keep the piston-to-head clearance as tight as possible. If you can get that clearance to anywhere near 0.040 inch, that's great, especially because most head gaskets come in around 0.042 inch thick. This tight clearance increases mixture activity in the chamber, which improves power and efficiency. We're not going to go through the clumsy math of computing compression. Instead, we'll refer you to the Performance Trends Web site, where you can download a free compression ratio program that is far quicker than doing the math longhand. To keep things simple, we'll limit the combos in these examples to a 4.030-inch bore and a 3.75-inch stroke.
Combo A: Let's do a typical flat-top piston with four valve reliefs (roughly 6 cc for volume) along with a 0.042-inch-thick head gasket and a 76cc chamber, which is typical for a stock iron production head. For piston deck height, let's use 0.005 inch. As the chart shows, the safest package with a mild hydraulic cam is going to be the 9.54:1 version, while the 10.13:1 version would probably make the best power on pump gas but would be sensitive to things like hot intake air temperatures, since hot air can easily make the engine prone to detonation.
Combo B: Let's look at an 18cc dished piston with many of the same variables as above, such as a 0.005-inch deck height, a 0.042-inch-thick gasket, and a smaller combustion chamber. By including other variables, such as a smaller dish or a larger chamber, you can see how the numbers change.
Combo C: Now let's try something different. Let's keep the piston 0.020 inch below the deck and use a 0.015-inch-thick Fel-Pro embossed steel head gasket with a rubber coating (PN 10094, $19.88, summitracing.com). This gasket can be used on aluminum heads. Our goal here is to reduce the piston-to-head clearance to 0.035 inch. Note how this affects compression. This requires that we minimize piston rock with a long rod and tight piston-to-wall clearance. This option does not require decking the block, and the gasket is also less expensive.
Clearly, there are dozens more combinations that we just don't have space to detail here, such as what happens to compression when changing bore and/or stroke. As an example, adding stroke bumps compression because the piston is moving farther down in the bore, creating more volume to compress. The beauty of the Performance Trends program is that you can play around with different variables very quickly to come up with an optimized combination.
|ENGINE PACKAGE||COMPRESSION RATIO|
|Flat-top piston, 76cc chamber, 0.042 gasket, 0.005 deck||9.54:1|
|Same as above with 70cc combustion chamber||10.13:1|
|Same as above with 64cc combustion chamber||10.82:1|
|Dished (18cc) piston, 64cc chamber, 0.042 gasket, 0.005 deck||9.54:1|
|Dished (12cc) piston, 64cc chamber, 0.042 gasket, 0.005 deck||10.13:1|
|Dished (12cc) piston, 70cc chamber, 0.042 gasket, 0.005 deck||9.54:1|
|Dished (12cc) piston, 70cc chamber, 0.015 gasket, 0.020 deck||9.78:1|
|Dished (12cc) piston, 64cc chamber, 0.015 gasket, 0.020 deck||10.41:1|
|Flat-top (6cc) piston, 70cc chamber, 0.015 gasket, 0.020 deck||10.41:1|
|Flat-top (6cc) piston, 64cc chamber, 0.015 gasket, 0.020 deck||11.14:1|
Rod LengthThere's much more to stuffing a longer-stroke crank into a small-block Chevy than just making sure the crank will clear the block. In the Origin of the Species sidebar, we outlined how the total height of the rotating assembly should compute to be roughly the same height as the engine's deck height. While a short rod like the stock 400's 5.565-inch piece will work, the angularity is rather harsh. A shorter rod pushes the piston into the thrust surface side of the cylinder wall, causing unnecessary friction and wear. Plus, short rods tend to expose more of the piston skirt out of the bottom of the bore at bottom dead center. This can cause durability and piston noise issues. Most 383 small-block stroker packages prefer the stock 5.70-inch-long 350-style rod, but there are also advantages to going with a 6.0-inch rod. A longer rod further reduces rod angularity during the combustion cycle, which reduces the side load on the piston and cylinder wall. But despite all the theories about long versus short rods, there is no solid evidence to suggest that there is significant power to be gained by using a longer rod.
All is not rosy with a long rod combination, however. Longer rods move the wristpin closer to the ring package. In tight situations, the wristpin overlaps the oil ring, requiring a support rail. This reduced compression height also creates less piston stability at higher engine speeds because of a shorter piston skirt length. The following chart outlines the three popular rod lengths and piston compression heights based on a 3.750-inch stroke. All these rod-length and compression-height combos will produce an overall assembled height of 9.008 inches, which allows roughly 0.017-inch piston-to-deck clearance with a stock deck height of 9.025 inches.
In this example, the 6.00-inch rod requires a compression height of 1.133 inches (SRP's 6.00-inch rod pistons use 1.125 inches). The height is close to the bare minimum of 1.000 that most piston manufacturers recommend, which is why the 5.700-inch rod is so popular. Longer rods are also heavier and can affect the overall bob weight of the rotating assembly. When mixing and matching parts, you'll want to avoid spending extra money to balance the system. This means that if you buy the crank individually, make sure the overall bob weight of the rods and pistons match the crank's designed bob weight. If you screw up here, it will cost big bucks to balance the crank.
We've listed several rods from several manufacturers that would work for a 383. This is only a partial list of the rods available from all the manufacturers. As an example, Scat alone offers five grades of connecting rods. Some are designed as stroker rods, while others are stock replacement rods that will need help to clear the camshaft. There's also the question of I- versus H-beam rods. All prices in the following chart are for a package of eight rods.
|ROD LENGTH||PISTON COMPRESSION HEIGHT|
I Beam Vs. H beamWhen you are selecting a rod for your next stroker, piston speed is the issue. With a 3.75-inch stroke the piston is traveling 7.5 inches from the top to the bottom of the bore. At 6,000 rpm, the piston is traveling 45,000 inches or 3,750 feet per minute.
When the piston is at bottom dead center (BDC), the rod is experiencing compression, and when the piston is at TDC, it is experiencing tension. The most violent force for the rod to endure is from the tension created at TDC during overlap where the piston is not cushioned by compressed air. A piston assembly (piston, rings, pin, and pin clip) that weighs 600 grams, for example, will weigh 11,250 pounds at 6,000 rpm during overlap. The rod must hold on to the piston as it reverses direction without stretching, snapping, or distorting causing bearing failure. Heavier pistons make it worse.
Using Scat as an example, the company's Street I-beam rod will withstand a 6,000-rpm pounding with a piston assembly in the 600-gram range. The Pro Comp I-beam will survive a 600-gram piston at 7,500 rpm or a heavier piston at a lower speed. The next step up would be the H-beam that can take whatever you can afford to throw at it. Chances are though, if you are building an engine that requires an H-beam rod, the pistons will be lighter, allowing more rpm and more rod longevity.
|Scat 5.7 stock I-beam, 3/8||35700P||Summit Racing||$189.95|
|Scat 6.0 stock I-beam, 3/8||36000P||Summit Racing||189.95|
|Scat 5.7 H-beam, 7/16||6570020||Summit Racing||429.95|
|Scat 6.0 H-beam, 7/16||6600020||Summit Racing||429.95|
|Eagle 5.7 I-beam, 3/8||SIR5700BPLW||Summit Racing||235.95|
|Eagle 6.0 I-beam, 3/8||SIR6000BPLW||Summit Racing||235.95|
|Eagle 5.7 H-beam, 7/16||CRS5700B3D||Summit Racing||429.95|
|Eagle 6.0 H-beam, 7/16||CRS6000B3D||Summit Racing||429.95|
|Crower 5.7 Sportsman, 3/8||SP91200B-8||Summit Racing||571.99|
|Crower 6.0 Sportsman, 3/8||SP91202B-8||Summit Racing||571.99|
Rotator PackagesFor those car crafters who prefer to build their own engine, the quickest path to making power is with a complete rotator package. The most common rotator packages include the crank, rods, pistons, and the rings and bearings. Often, you can also purchase these systems balanced and ready to install. The most important reason to buy a rotator system is because the manufacturer combines the right parts that can be easily balanced. The danger of piecing together a crank, rod, and piston combination is that you must pay strict attention to bob weights. If you end up with a heavy piston, balancing can become extremely expensive since Mallory (heavy) metal has skyrocketed in price lately. The smart move is to carefully lay out your plans for that 383 engine and do your homework before buying anything. Check the prices and go with a system that is designed to work together, and you will avoid many of the classic engine builder blunders.
The great thing about the small-block Chevy is that the volume of parts being produced is so great that manufacturers can offer excellent deals on brand-new parts that make it silly to dig up used parts to build a 383. For the budget-conscious builder, the hot ticket is to go with a cast nodular iron crank, stock-style 5.7 rods, and cast or hypereutectic pistons. Scat offers its Series 9000 rotating assembly, which uses a cast crank, cast pistons, and I-beam rods for less than $500. That's an amazing price for new parts. The Scat rods are replacement-style I-beams made from 4340 steel and fitted with ARP bolts. It's only slightly less expensive to rebuild stock rods compared with what these babies cost, and the stock rods are not nearly as strong. There are several other companies, such as Competition Products, that offer similar kits-so do a little shopping to see what's out there.
For those who are looking to work their 383 a little harder, you might want to step up the quality a little. Eagle offers a cast crank kit for a two-piece rear main seal 383 that is externally balanced and uses Eagle I-beam 5140 steel rods, hypereutectic pistons, rings, and bearings. This kit also comes with a Pioneer balancer and flexplate. If engine speed above 6,200 rpm is what you dream about at night, then stepping up to a 4340 steel crank and good forged pistons is the only way to go. Crower has created the Enduro kit that lists an American-made 4340 steel crankshaft with Sportsman 4340 steel I-beam rods, along with your choice of forged piston. The kit rounds out with rings and bearings, and while the price is steeper, you're getting a package that could live a long time spinning to a 6,800-rpm shift point
The advantage of working with an extremely popular engine package is that you have lots of choices. We've already made our decision. Now all we have to do is save our lunch money for the next two years and that Crower package is all ours!
|Scat 9000 Series rotator||1-92000-1||Summit Racing||$489.95|
|Eagle rotator kit||B13405E030||Summit Racing||749.95|
|Crower Enduro series kit||95502||Summit Racing||2,557.39|
Mild To Wild Engine CombosThe following is a quick overview of three different engine combinations, all displacing 383 ci with a 5.7-inch-long rod and 23-degree small-block heads. But that's where the similarities end. If you take a look at the three power curves, you'll notice that as the camshaft duration becomes longer, the torque peak moves higher in the rpm scale. The mild engine's peak torque occurs at 3,500 rpm, while the middle engine bumps that up to 5,500 rpm. The wild engine actually lowers the peak torque a little with its better cylinder heads, but you can see how the cam duration slides both the peak torque and peak horsepower up the rpm scale. Also note how the 571hp engine is down 50 lb-ft at 2,500 compared with the mild engine.
Mild-412HP 383This is a simple and relatively inexpensive combination of a one-piece roller cam block with a stroker crank, 9:1 compression with dished pistons, a tame GM Performance Parts hot hydraulic roller cam, 1.6:1 roller rockers, factory roller lifters, a set of modified Vortec iron heads, an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap intake, a 750-cfm mechanical-secondary carburetor, and a set of 13/4-inch headers. The only upgrade necessary is some machine work and better valvesprings for the Vortec heads to accommodate the additional valve lift. This combo makes excellent torque with 466 lb-ft at 3,500 and 415 at 5,500 rpm. Even with a stock converter, this is a tire shredder.
|Block, one-piece seal||used||junkyard||$100.00|
|Scat crank, cast, one-piece seal||910526||Summit Racing||169.95|
|Stock 5.7-inch rod||rebuilt||Machine shop||150.00|
|Piston, Speed-Pro hypereutectic||HC860-03||Summit Racing||36.69 each|
|GMPP Vortec iron head||12558060||Scoggin-Dickey||551.50|
|GMPP Hot hydraulic roller cam||24502586||Scoggin-Dickey||192.95|
|GMPP valvespring kit||12495494||Scoggin-Dickey||32.95|
|Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap||7501||Summit Racing||212.95|
|Holley 750 mechanical secondary||0-4779C||Summit Racing||433.95|
|Hedman 13/4-inch headers||application specific||Summit Racing||193.95|
Medium-480HP 383This combination steps up the compression, the heads, and the cam over the mild combo and is rewarded with 70 more horsepower and is still peaking below 6,000 rpm. Overall torque is greater across the board because of the better-flowing TFS 215cc aluminum cylinder heads outfitted with 2.08/1.60-inch stainless valves. This is great overall power because the motor makes more than 450 lb-ft from 3,000 to 5,500. In a 3,400-pound Camaro with an automatic and a 3,000-stall-speed converter, this could run very low 12s, assuming sufficient traction to stick all that torque to the pavement.
|Block, production, 1 piece seal||used||junkyard||$100.00|
|Scat crankshaft, cast, 1 piece||910526||Summit Racing||169.95|
|Scat Comp 5.7 I-beam rod||25700716||Summit Racing||287.95|
|SRP forged piston||139628||Summit Racing||563.88|
|TFS 215cc aluminum head||TFS-32400006||Summit Racing||1,536.95|
|Comp XR282HR cam||08-432-8||Summit Racing||259.95|
|Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap||7501||Summit Racing||212.95|
|Demon 750 cfm mechanical secondary||1402010||Jegs||459.99|
|Hedman 13/4-inch headers||application specific||Summit Racing||193.95|
Wild-570HP 383Here's where the fun really begins. This engine started life as a pedestrian one-piece rear main seal motor that now has a complete Lunati 4340 steel crank rotating package complete with I-beam Lunati Pro Mod rods and forged flat-top Wiseco pistons. We dropped on a set of Dart CNC 227cc heads that helped produce a 10.9:1 compression ratio. Then we added in an aggressive Comp Cams XR-292 mechanical roller cam with (count 'em!) 36 more degrees of duration at 0.050 than the mild combination. Topping off this thumper is a Holley-Dorton single-plane intake and a Holley 750 Street HP carb. Routing the exhaust was the responsibility of a set of Hooker 13/4-inch headers. The final piece was a Wilson 1-inch tapered spacer that on this particular combination was worth a solid 23 hp from 548 to 571 hp. Peak torque occurred at 5,100 rpm. This is a beast in small-block clothing, but with a distinctive idle lope, there's little chance of disguising this small-block as anything less than a contender. If horsepower makes your toes tingle, this is the combo for you. We've actually discussed pushing this beast a little harder to see if we could hit 600 hp. If you like that idea, compose a sell job and convince us this needs to be done. We love it when you talk horsepower.
|Block, production, 1 piece seal||used||junkyard||$ 100.00|
|Lunati 4340 stroker assembly||EA62||Summit Racing||3,618.69|
|Comp XR-280 roller||12-771-8||Summit Racing||259.95|
|Comp mechanical roller lifters||888-16||Summit Racing||534.69|
|Dart CNC 227cc head||11971143||Summit Racing||2,551. 90|
|Holley Dorton intake||300-110||Summit Racing||249.95|
|Holley Street HP 750 cfm||0-82751||Summit Racing||459.99|
|Hooker 13/4-inch headers||application specific||Summit Racing||472.99|
|DURATION(at 0.050)||LIFT(in. )||LOBE SEPARATION|
|Mild: GMPP Hot, intake||218||0.560||112|
|PN 24502586, exhaust||228||0.560|
|Medium: Comp XR282HR, intake||230||0.510||110|
|PN 08-432-8, exhaust||236||0.520|
|Wild: Comp XR-292, intake||254||0.622||110|
|PN 12-773-8, exhaust||260||0.628|
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383 STROKER ASSEMBLY SCAT CRANK 6" RODS WISECO FLAT TOP 030 PISTONS 1PC RMS
17 customer reviews
|Product Type||Shipped Product|
|Number of reviews||17|
FULLY BALANCED SBC CHEVY 383 STROKER ROTATING ASSEMBLY WITH WISECO FORGEDFLAT TOP PISTONS.
BALANCED IN HOUSE.
Our user id is: skipwhite, and our store name is whiteperformance1. You may have noticed other sellers using a similar name offering similar products. These other sellers have capitalized on our name as we see it, and many customers searching for us will inadvertently find them, thinking we are one in the same company. There is only one "Skip White." We are the original premier seller under this name since approximately 2003. We have no other names, nor are we associated with any other company regardless of the similarity in the name or location. Our official company name is Skip White Performance. Please see the article in the lower part of this ad for a more detailed explanation
The picture above is a file photo. See the detailed info below for the actual pictures and items included in this assembly.
Fully balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
This assembly comes with a Scat crankshaft and 4340 Scat rods, Wiseco premium forged pistons, Hasting or Mahle rings, King bearings, a heavy duty 168 or 153 tooth flexplate and a Pro-Race brand damper. See our other listings for various piston bores in flat, dish, and dome style, as well as 1 pc or 2 pc rms style cranks and LT1 stroker kits. Our 383 rotating assemblies are now offered in a 5.7" and a 6.0" rod combination. See details above for all the actual specs of this assembly. In the lower section of this ad is information on the various upgrades we offer in our other listings.
This assembly will NOT work in cars equipped with LT1 or LS based engines. The LT1 engines came into use around 1992 and up to approx. 1997 in Corvettes and Z28 Camaros, also some Chevy Caprice SS and police cars. See our other listings for the correct assembly to use in LT1 engines.
In addition to the above engine that is not compatible with this assembly would be the Gen 3 Chevy engines. These would include vehicles using the LS based engines such as the 5.3, 5.7, 6.0 and 6.2 engines. LS based engines came into use in 1997, and up Corvettes, and 1998 and up in Z28 Camaros, and in most 1999 pickup trucks. If you have a 1996 up to 1998 Vortec 5.7 engine then this assembly should work work without a problem. To sum it up, this assembly can be used in most Gen 1 350 engines. You will have to notch your block for crank and rod clearance.
We offer these assemblies in 1 pc rms. and 2 pc rms. dish or flat top pistons, as well as other bore sizes. See details below for the actual specs.
Connecting Rod Specs.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
Compression Ratio Chart
The calculations below assume your pistons are at zero deck. Let's say your compression calculates out to be 10.50:1 for example based on having the pistons at zero deck (flush with the deck), but your pistons were going to be .005 in the hole, then the comp. ratio would only drop to 10.36, and if left .010 in the hole, then it would drop to approx. 10.22 We do recommend having your block decked to allow the piston to set anywhere from flush (zero) to .005 in the hole for optimal performance. We used a 4.125 head gasket diameter, and a .040 head gasket thickness in our calculations to come up with our comp. ratio values.
We have highlighted in red the compression ratio for the bore size and piston volume of this assembly using several popular combustion chamber sizes.
WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP. WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.
The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. Ours
are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. Most lower cost forged pistons on the market do not use this alloy, and they do not have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine.
The 4032 forged alloy pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels.
The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.
Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature.
Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, you will only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of a virgin block to achieve a zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. Most all catalog pistons on the market require cutting the deck surface around .025 to achieve a zero deck. A zero deck is very important as it keeps the quench/squish zone at or near an optimal .040 distance. Be sure and let your machine shop know what the compression height is on these pistons before they machine your deck surface.
You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.
We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco forged pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.
These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups. For the slight increase in cost, this is the best value on the market.
The picture below is a file photo of our Wiseco pistons. The picture was taken with a bright flash and appears to have enhanced the machine marks. These marks are actually barely visible with the naked eye.
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft. You will receive the correct model packaged in the original Scat box.
Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft supplied with this assembly:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are 25% stronger than stock OEM cast cranks and are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing. This crank is suitable for use up to approx. 500-525 hp.
We recommend that you check the thrust clearance on the crank before assembling the engine. This is recommended on any crankshaft, regardless of brand or cost. Also be sure to check your main and rod journal size.
Scat connecting rods.
Genuine Scat Bushed Rods with ARP 12 point cap screws are now used in all of our rotating assemblies and 383 Stroker engines.
As seen the in close-up picture below, Scat rods have a very solid build quality.
The quality of the Scat rods is unsurpassed by any of the low cost no-name rods on the market and they exceed the quality of some of the branded names as well.
Our Scat rods are bronze bushed. These are far superior to press fit. They are much more durable and free up a slight amount of horse power, and reduce piston and oil temp. This is something to consider when buying kits that use press fit rods. We just don't recommend press fit to anyone. Machine shops will charge up to $60.00 to press them on. Bushed rods with full floating wrist pins, which we offer, are very simple to attach to the pistons.
The Scat rods do have genuine ARP 8740 Series 12 point cap screws. These rods offer excellent block clearance in the lower end of the cylinders.
We have noticed some sellers using generic rods and crankshafts in their rotating assemblies. These non-branded (no-name) rods and cranks are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many sellers fail to mention the actual brand of these products. Upon further investigation, you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing, to say the least. Failures of such critical parts in your engine may result in catastrophic damage. Machine shops are sometimes able to correct some of the problems with these low quality rods and cranks, but at great expense to the customer. As for the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the name, brand, and series of every part used in our assemblies.
Many of the inferior "no-name" rods on the market will also have "no-name" rod bolts in them. We have seen these bolts before, and they are very low quality. They don't have ARP's rolled thread design, and they don't torque down with the same characteristics as a genuine ARP bolt. It's not just a matter of having a different brand bolt in the rods; these bolts are low quality in many ways. They have been known to fail in engines to a much greater degree than a high quality rod bolt, and this failure usually causes catastrophic damage in the engine. Beware of rods that don't mention the rod bolt brand. As far as we're concerned, ARP bolts are the only brand we would ever use or accept in a set of rods.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.
You must clearance the rods if using a full base camshaft. If you purchase this assembly, we offer a rod to cam clearancing and sizing upgrade. See details in the lower section of this ad.
We now offer a special line of Comp cams for hyd. roller setups for street rod use. They all have a reduced base circle, (1.050). These cams do not require any cam to rod clearancing on virtually any type of rod used in a 383 or 406 engine. These cams do not cost any more than the large base circle cams, and do not require a special distributor gear. All of our sbc engines now use these cams. We have six to choose from, with numerous dyno reports. These cams are outstanding in performance compared to any of the other brands/profiles we have used in the past. We certainly like the idea of not having to grind into the rod body and bolt.
The picture with the blue pen pointing are how the rods appear from Scat. The other picture clearly shows the alteration that is required.
Before the engine is assembled, we strongly suggest checking the rods on a Sunnen machine for sizing on both ends. We recommend this with any rod regardless of cost or brand. It is not uncommon to find some of the rods requiring a slight bump through the hone for perfection in sizing and roundness. We also offer this Stroker kit with a proofed set of rods. This is an excellent choice for those wanting to build the engine on their own. We do recommend the rod clearance and sizing upgrade for those lacking the equipment and knowledge to do this.
We also offer a rod upgrade in our other listings. The Scat Competition Pro series I beam rods are absolutely the best insurance against failure you can get considering the low cost to upgrade. The regular Scat rods in this sale are excellent, but the Pro-Competition series rods are much lighter and have been cnc profiled and shot peened to relieve all stress risers. The rod body is also designed like a billet rod. They have the larger size 7/16 ARP 12 point cap screws and are especially designed to clear very large cams with very little clearancing. The amount required to clearance most cams is much less than what is required when using the regular Scat rods that come with this assembly. It's our personal favorite for many reasons, but mostly the added protection against rod or bolt breakage under high rpm. The lighter weight reduces the rotational and reciprocating mass to a considerable degree as well. This has many benefits, including better engine acceleration and less stress on the crank.
To give you an idea of just how much faith we have in the Scat Pro-Competition rods, we use them in our SBC 421/427 engines. The 427 engine has a deeper stroke crank, heavier pistons, and these engines make up to 625 hp and turn up to 6800 rpm. We've had zero failures on over 200 of these engines built. Considering they do this well in the 427, they would most likely never fail in a 383 engine under any conditions.
To be clear: the Scat Pro-Competition rods are NOT included in this kit. They are offered as an upgrade option in the lower portion of this ad. See our other listings to check out the full story on the Scat Competition series rods.
MAHLE or HASTINS RINGS DEPENDING ON AVAILABILITY, KING OR FEDERAL MOGAL, DEPENDING ON AVAILABILITY MAIN AND ROD BEARINGSINCLUDED.
Pro Race Brand harmonic damper, 6.75 diameter, included. These are very high quality items.
We have noticed others using a low grade knockoff brand damper/balancer, and we have encountered them in the past. They are substandard in appearance, and are often out of spec. The timing marks were also poorly marked on some of the balancers we have come across. You don't want a balancer coming off or one that is improperly weighted. Another problem with low grade dampers is the elastomer bonding can lose its adherence to the inner and outer structure. This problem is referred to as a slipped damper. We have only encountered this once in 10 years with the Pro-Race brand dampers.
We know of several competitors including these balancers with rotating assemblies. The ProStreet brand is far superior to most any we have ever seen. They were once known as a knockoff product, and have become one the best values on the market, without comprising quality whatsoever.
If you are building a 383 stroker using a late model 350 engine from the fuel injected era you will need to opt for the 8.0" damper. Our assemblies come with a 6.75" damper and this damper will not work on the late engines that have the plastic timing cover. The plastic timing covers used on some of these engines protrude outward and will interfere the the counter weight that certain assemblies have. The 8.00" damper does not have this issue as its counter weight sits flush within the damper. There is no upcharge for the 8.00" damper. Be sure and let us know if you require the 8.00" damper. It would be best to contact us through messaging and let us know to be sure this info is forwarded to our balancing department. Some of our assemblies come with an internally balanced crank, and the use of the 6.75" damper will not be a problem for engines with the thick plastic timing cover. The internal dampers do not have a counter weight in them.
HEAVY DUTY FLEXPLATE INCLUDED.
HEAVY DUTY FLEXPLATE. This flexplate will resist cracking. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are either zinc dichromate or black powder coated. We would never use the thinner OE style plate on an assembly like this. It is very important to let us know the tooth count that you require to accommodate your transmission. Some bell housings will not allow the use of a 168 tooth flexplate, and will require a 153 tooth size. We usually have both available at no extra cost.
WARNING: The crank has a dowel pin installed in it. You must align the flexplate or flywheel to the dowel pin. The assembly was balanced with this pin installed.
We offer premium grade Ram brand SFI Billet Steel flywheels for manual transmission use at an additional cost. See our other listings. This assembly includes a flexplate for automatic transmission use at no additional cost.
When choosing a flywheel for manual transmission use, be sure to know what tooth count you need. There are two sizes available, and it is of the utmost importance to select the flywheel that is correct for this assembly. There are several factors that must be addressed when choosing your correct flywheel. The tooth count must be correct. This is very important. There are two sizes available, and it is the bellhousing size on the transmission that determines this. Another important factor is if the assembly your purchasing is internally balanced often referred to as neutral balanced or if it is an externally balanced assembly, often referred to as externally balanced. All of our assembly ads will have this information in them. Big block and small block engines will also have a different bolt pattern in most cases. To sum it up, there are three important factors to look for when selecting the correct flywheel, tooth count, int. or ext bal. and whether or not you have a big block or small block engine. The Ram brand flywheels we offer are very high quality.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your assembly.
Three CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.
Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
Our thoughts on what the competition has to offer.
Many rotating assemblies we see on the market are not using the most suitable parts. We hope you can value the fact that we have put together an above average assembly. The failure rate with the parts used in our assembly is near non-existent. These are the same parts we use in our engine program. It was through trial and error in years past that taught us where to draw the line with low cost parts. We are out-priced by many others selling assemblies that include parts that have high failure rates. Many of these parts also pose a great problem with assembly due to the fact they require additional machining and can end up costing you a great deal more money and time. If you're going to have a machine shop build your engine, we strongly advise you get an opinion from them on the parts you're going to be bringing to them. Rest assured they will find no problem with the combination and quality of our parts. We have also seen sellers offering parts that are not compatible with what most people are building. The low grade dampers and flexplates are often a problem. Another area of concern would be balancing. Not sure how much attention these sellers are giving the assembly in this area. We spend up to two hours balancing an assembly, and using the very best up to date CWT balancing equipment on the market. If the assembly is not balanced properly, it will cost you horse power, and it can damage the bearings in the engine, not to mention there is nothing worse than an engine that lacks a smooth feel and sound when ran in the upper rpm range.
We offer this assembly with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value.
Note: The upgrade prices below are subject to change. Refer to the actual upgrade listing for the exact price of these upgrades. The changes are usually very small if any.
SFI Certified Flexplate: This is a very low cost upgrade and may be required when racing your car at certain tracks. The flexplate that comes with this assembly is a heavy duty plate, but the SFI certified plate is one step up in quality and safety. This SFI plate is made in North America. We noticed these have much less run-out and warpage than we see with many other plates on the market. Plates with too much run-out and warpage can cause a host of problems for your transmission and starter, and affect balancing. The low cost to upgrade to this is well worth it in our opinion.
Cost of this upgrade is $19.95We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
SFI damper: Offers an extreme level of safety against breakage, and is very resistant against slippage of the elastomer damping material. SFI dampers are not only made from a better grade of steel, they are also constructed differently and have a much better appearance. They usually last much longer than a non-SFI damper. Many drag strips require this on engines producing high horse power levels. The SFI certification is laser etched into the side. Damper failure rates are much higher on engines using a non-sfi damper coupled with hp ratings exceeding 450 and turn 5600 rpm or higher. We strongly recommend this upgrade for those running hard.
Cost of the SFI damper upgrade is $89.50We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Crank polishing: Extends bearing life, reduces oil temp, frees up a slight amount of average horsepower. This is a very low cost upgrade, and in the world of mass production, most cranks do not come with a true polished finish. This is why most machine shops have a machine to do this. The difference is dramatic between a crank right out of the box and one that we have polished. Bearing companies claim that cranks that have better finishes on the journals will survive the break-in better, and have much longer bearing life. We do a two-step process and bring the RA numbers down in the single digit range. We have the most advanced crank polishing machine on the market.
Cost for the crank polishing upgrade is $38.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
Rod to cam clearance and sizing: We know exactly where and how much to cut the rods on our vertical milling machine for correct cam clearance, and sizing the big end and wrist pin bushing on the Sunnen machine saves a trip to the machine shop. All rods, regardless of brand, should be checked for sizing on a Sunnen machine, and corrected if needed. You will seldom see a complete set of rods that have perfect sizing on both ends right out of the box.
Cost of this rod to cam clearancing and sizing upgrade is $79.50We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
We do the rod to cam clearancing on a vertical milling machine as pictured below as part of this upgrade. By doing this procedure on a milling machine the rods are cut precisely at the correct angle to clear the cam. This also keeps the amount removed identical on each rod. It would be very difficult to do this by hand on a grinder as is commonly done. After we clearance the rods on the milling machine we go over them on a wire brush machine to clean up the edges, and remove any stress risers. This is a very critical procedure. Those who lack the experience and choose to do this on their own risk destroying the rod and or the bolt, or at least removing too much material and weakening the rod and or bolt.
Race balancing: This is for those who want the engine to operate virtually vibration free at high rpm. Extends engine life and frees up a few more horse power. This is a somewhat labor intensive procedure and is not required, but the feel of an absolutely vibration free engine at high rpm is desirable by many. The standard balance job that is included with this assembly at no extra charge is certainly sufficient. With a race balance job, all pistons and rods are match weighed to within 2/10's of a gram or less, and the final balance is brought down to around 1 gram plus or minus. An ultra smooth engine at high rpm has a noticeable feel and sound to it. If you do not opt for this upgrade, the assembly will still be fully balanced. We spend a good hour and a half doing the regular balance work, and it will certainly meet your needs.
Cost of this race balancing upgrade is $125.00We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
Scat Competition Rods:Recommended for those running hard. The regular Scat rods that come with this assembly are sufficient for most street rod uses, but the Scat Competition series rods offer more security against rod breakage under hard use, and they have the huge ARP-8740 7/16's cap screws. The Competition rods have a 600+ Hp rating, and the slight cost to upgrade is well worth it in our opinion. These rods require slightly less cam to rod clearancing then the regular Scat rods. We use the very same Scat Competition rods in our 600+ hp 427 and 434 engines.
Cost of this Scat Competition rod upgrade is $69.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
ARP-2000 rod bolts: This is one upgrade that we find to be very valuable. The rod bolts are most likely to fail under hard use, moreso than the rod itself. When a rod bolt fails during high RPM, total engine destruction is usually the result. The ARP-2000 rod bolts are a very good upgrade, in our opinion. We actually have few, if any, problems with the regular ARP-8740 bolts, but those who run hard always upgrade to the ARP-2000 rod bolts. The ARP-2000 rod bolts also torque at a higher number, and this increased clamping force is also a factor in keeping the big end of the rod stable and true to size. The ARP-2000 bolts are installed in the rods and this upgrade is only available with the Competition rod upgrade.
Cost of this ARP 2000 rod bolt upgrade is $89.50We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
Internal (neutral) balanced front.This low cost upgrade is the next best thing to an internal balanced crank. This Scat crank is similar in design to the one offered in this assembly, but it has an internal (neutral) balanced front. Running a crank that is neutral balanced in the front will allow the use of a non-weighted front damper. This will eliminate the additional mass from a weighted damper. Replacing the damper, if it's ever needed, becomes a simple procedure, and assures that the balancing is not affected. It's well known that under high rpm conditions, the front of the crank on externally balanced engines is at risk of breaking much more than those with an internal setup.
Cost of the internally balanced front crank is $79.00We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
Scat 4340 Forged Crank: The forged Scat crank has a rating of 800+ HP. This is the ultimate upgrade for those wanting to run hard. Nos, blowers, turbos, are not an issue with this crank. Even without such power adders, this Crank offers great protection under the most severe conditions. This upgrade also comes with the HP high Performance King bearings. Should you decide to run power adders in the future, this would be essential. The fatigue life of the 4340 crank over the cast nodular is also greatly extended. We do offer this upgrade as part of many of our assemblies in some of our other listings. They have the key words, "fully forged," in the title.
Cost of this forged crank upgrade is $535.00We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart.
Some of these upgrades are often requested by those building an engine without a machine shop. We find most of these upgrades very valuable for those wanting to take longevity and durability to the next level. They are all bottom end related, and that's an area worth investing a few more dollars into, in our opinion, especially if you're planning on running long and/or hard. These upgrades are also valuable for your build history on your engine, and would certainly increase the resale value of your engine, should you ever sell it. Pricing of upgrades subject to change.
A note from Skip White, company president.
Many people have asked how is it that we can sell this assembly for such a low price. To answer this; we buy our products at master WD (warehouse distributor) level for all of the items in this assembly, and we are selling direct to the public. We are a volume sales based company. Our profit is based on sheer volume, with a very low markup. It is this large volume purchasing that allows us to buy products at a much lower price and we simply pass these savings on to our customers. This is our main competitive edge.
From ebay user r***s
Just as described
Reviewed by r***s on July 22, 2021, 9:49 a.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.
From ebay user r***s
Just as described
Reviewed by r***s on July 23, 2021, 6:51 a.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.
From ebay user r***s
Just as described
Reviewed by r***s on July 24, 2021, 5:05 a.m. | Permalink
This review has no votes.
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