Pictures in resin

Pictures in resin DEFAULT

Sihaya Designs Jewelry

From time to time, I’ll be offering fun tutorials on my blog to inspire your own craftiness. Of course, if you’re not of a crafty bent, I am always available for custom work, and to put your beautiful images in a keepsake piece just for you.

Aisha Necklace


First up: how to seal images for use in resin pendants. One of the many ways you can use resin is to create a custom piece of jewelry using an interesting picture or a photo of a loved one. But watch out! It’s not quite as simple as just cutting out your picture and coating it with resin.

Before you begin, you want to make sure your photo will fit in the bezel. Many commercially-produced bezels come in standard sizes that correspond to common craft paper punches. For this tutorial, I am using a Nunn Design Grande bezel, which corresponds to a 1 1/2″ oval punch. If you are planning on creating several round or oval pendants, you may want to acquire a few, as they make matching your photo to the bezel super easy.


If you don’t have a paper punch, that’s okay. Place your bezel to your image and use a pencil to lightly mark the shape you want to cut out. The tricky part is that you’ll have to cut slightly inside your markings, and you will likely have to trim several times to get a perfect match. Take your time with this step so you have a good fit.


Once you have your image ready to go, there are two main ways to seal your image so that it won’t get ruined when you pour your resin over it.

The first way is the quickie way: you can sandwich the image between two pieces of clear packing tape. Once the image is secure between the tape pieces, trim around the edges, and then seal the edges with a white glue so that resin doesn’t seep in. Place a dot of glue at the bottom of your bezel, apply your image, and then pour the resin once it’s ready. I tend not to do this, as you can often see the shininess of the tape beneath the cured resin, and it’s not an effect I particularly care for.

The second way I’ve found looks a bit better once your resin has cured, but it takes a bit longer to complete.

First, place your image against a piece of wax paper or aluminum foil. Coat it with a thin layer of sealant. My favorite sealant is good old fashioned Mod Podge. I’ve tried lots of different sealants and nothing beats it. Don’t be worried if your sealant goes on white or opaque. It will dry clear.


Wait ten minutes, and then coat the back of the image. It’s important to note that resin will seep in and discolor any part of the image that is not sealed completely watertight, so be careful to get a nice coating over everything.


Wait another ten minutes, and coat the inside of your bezel. Place your image in, and then go over it with a final coat to make sure the edges of your image are completely sealed in.


Wait a half-hour to make sure everything is completely dry. If your sealant isn’t dry, then the seal won’t hold, and your image will be discolored.


Mix your resin per the package’s instructions, and then fill the bezel. While your resin is still fresh and pliable, you can add any inclusions you’d like. For this pendant, I’ve added three tiny Swarovski Crystal rhinestones.

A note about resin: my absolute favorite resin is Susan Lenart Kazmer’s Ice Resin– it’s the only resin I currently use. I tend to mix up an ounce at a time and do several pendants in a batch to minimize waste.

If you’d like a domed finish, pour a second thin layer of resin one day later, unless you are skilled at judging how to create the dome in one pour. It takes practice!

If you notice any bubbles, you can gently pop them with a toothpick or a pin. Another trick is to gently pass a flame a half-inch over the surface of your pendant. The heat will draw the bubbles closer to the surface, and they will either pop on their own or be much easier to pop with a pin. Be sure to work quickly here—you only have about 45 minutes before your resin becomes too goopy to work with.

After 24 hours, your piece will be at the “soft cure” stage, which means you can gently handle it and clean up any over-spill. Be careful not to press too hard on it, or you could dent your resin. After three days, it will be at the “full cure” stage, and should be rock-solid if you correctly mixed your resin.



Enjoy your new pendant!



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This entry was posted on June 13, 2013, in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink. Sours:

Introduction: Resin Cast Photography

Tired of emptying your pockets to have your photos mounted and framed? The quality, expense and lack of variety at most framing shops is pretty frustrating. Not only that, putting yourself at the mercy of a someone else's schedule when you're in a hurry to hang or install a show is stressful. Take matters into your own hands and polish off work by casting photos in crystal clear, UV protective epoxy resin. Casting photos in resin is fool-proof and an easy solution to protecting your work while minimizing distractions from the surface of your pieces. This step-by-step tutorial will address how to construct a clean wooden surface to mount your images, seal them, and cast them in resin. It’s easier than you probably expect and the results are stunning.

The main ingredient for this project is EX-74. There're dozens of epoxy and polyester resins on the market, but in my experience EX-74's the safest to handle and it stands the test of time preserving it's glasslike sheen. It's a two part mixture; one part resin and an equal part hardener. One quart is about the amount I'd suggest using to cover a 15x15" surface; .5 qts resin + .5 qts hardener =15x15" piece. Let this be your base number in determining how many quarts you will need to cast your piece. EX-74's available by the gallon at TAP Plastics or the manufacturer's website

Additional supplies: workable fixative, respirator, rubber gloves, heat gun, 2 calibrated gallon buckets, stir-stick, wood patch, spackle spreader, wood glue, acrylic gel medium, exacto or razor, pine struts ~.5"x1.5”, 1/4” mdf slab, tape measure, foam roller, primer, paint brush. Power tools included a table saw, chop saw, belt sander, and nail-gun.

Step 1: Building Your Canvas

  1. Cut your mdf 1/8” smaller than your image in length and width. This will ensure that your image bleeds all the way to the edge of the surface of your canvas. For example, if your photograph is 8x10, cut your mdf 7 7/8” by 9 7/8”.
  2. Similarly, cut your pine framing pieces 1/8” shorter than the width and the height of you image. Cut at 45 degree angles. Where the top and bottom pieces of your frame meet the left and right pieces they should form 90 degree angles.
  3. Dab wood glue to the end of each strut, hold them together tightly and apply two nails anchoring them together.
  4. Next, apply wood glue to the top of your frame where the mdf will go. Place your mdf on top and align it with the frame as accurately as possible. Nail it down.
  5. Spackle up the nail holes with wood patch. Spackle any gaps between your framing pieces if they didn’t join perfectly at the corners. Allow an hour to dry.
  6. Sand the excess wood patch from your canvas to create a flush surface, and so that the edge of the mdf is flush with that of the pine frame.
  7. With painters tape, mask off the pine frame of your canvas leaving only the 1/4" mdf exposed. Paint the outer 1/4" edge white and allow to dry.

At this point, your photograph should be a hair larger than the surface of the canvas. Don’t trim your image to the canvas just yet. It’s best to trim after it's mounted.

Step 2: Sealing Your Image

Sealing your photo is important in order to keep it from buckling and absorbing the resin.

  1. Wearing your respirator, coat your photo front and back with workable fixative in 3 thorough coats. Keep the nozzle at least 1' away from your photo. Fixative might have just turned your glossy image to matte, but the frosty matte will completely disappear after the resin's poured.
  2. If your image was exposed on an emulsion style photo paper, fixative alone will keep moisture from permeating it's surface. However, if your image was printed on a pulpier, textured card-stock, spray it with fixative then paint it with a clear gel medium to create a barrier between your image and the resin. Whatever brushstrokes or textures appear in coating you image will disappear after the resin cast.

Step 3: Mounting Your Photograph

  1. Create a clean working surface where you feel comfortable laying you image face down. Butcher paper works great.
  2. With your foam roller, spread a modest amount of acrylic gel medium across the surface of your canvas. You want the surface completely covered, but without excess. Be sure to get the corners.
  3. Next, firmly hold your photo face down and roll a light amount of gel medium on the back side.
  4. Carefully lay your photo atop the canvas, registering each corner to that of the canvas. Once in place, apply pressure and place face down on your clean surface. Rest a heavy weight on top (perhaps your resin), and allow to dry overnight.
  5. After your image is mounted, gently trim the overhanging photo from your canvas with a razor. Rest your razor or exacto blade against the mdf to make sure your image is cut flush with the canvas.

Step 4: Resin Casting

Put on your respirator and rubber gloves. EX-74 is safe and simple to use if exercising simple precaution. Tarp off a level area for casting. As the poured resin levels atop your piece, the excess will drip off onto the tarp beneath it

  1. In your calibrated bucket, mix your resin and hardener in as equal parts possible. Stir thoroughly in clockwise and counterclockwise directions and then scrape the sides of your tub to collect any unmixed solution. While the resin and hardener are both clear compounds, you can see separation between the two. Stir until you can't see any separation.
  2. Pour your resin mixture into your fresh bucket and repeat.
  3. Place your piece atop a bucket or another level surface elevating it from the tarp. Drizzle resin across the surface of your piece. Spread with your stir stick making sure the entire piece is covered with 1/8-1/4" resin.
  4. Blow the surface with a heat gun keeping at least 1' from the piece. The heat will bring air bubbles to the surface and pop them. Be sure not to direct the heat on an area for too long. Allow your piece to cure overnight.
  • After your piece is cured solid, be careful not to blemish the surface. While EX-74 cures to look like glass, it can't be treated like glass. Epoxy plastic is relatively soft, and can scratch if grazed with sharp material or cleaned with solutions containing alcohol. To clean, lightly dust the surface with a scanner wipe or soft cotton. If there are smudges, gently wipe with water, Brillianize or Plexi-Clean solution.

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How To Turn Your Photos Into Beautiful Resin Jewelry


Looking for an innovative way to show off your latest and greatest photos? Try experimenting with personalized jewelry using pictures from your most memorable vacation or outing.

Think: dramatic landscapes, charming landmarks, pets and animals, signage from a great restaurant, or even that one family portrait where everyone miraculously has their eyes open.

For this tutorial, I’m using a photo of an African spotted eagle owl, taken during a recent visit to a raptor sanctuary, along with a picture of a lighthouse, a dead tree on the beach where I live, and a shot of my friend surfing from our last camping trip. Each piece is unique and the possibilities are endless!

Most craft supply stores carry various bezel blanks for resin. For this project, I chose blank pendant and ring shapes, but you can also find bracelet, earring and brooch blanks. If you’re looking for something a little out of the ordinary, check out Etsy for some unique shape and size options.

To create these eye-catching charms, photos are fit into the blank bezel and covered with resin. These stunning, personalized pendants make excellent gifts and keepsakes. Impress your friends, and feel great about wearing such a fond memory so close to your heart.

What you need


  • Blank Pendant Bezels
  • Photos
  • Resin
  • Mod Podge
  • Foam brush or paintbrush
  • Scissors or X-Acto knife
  • Leather cord
  • Decorative beads and wire (optional)


Step 1: Print photos to match the dimensions of the bezel. Photos can be printed on any type of paper. For this tutorial, photos were printed onto regular computer paper using a laser printer.

Step 2: Cut out images using scissors or X-Acto knife.


Step 3: Place photo on a piece of wax paper to protect your work surface. Using a foam brush, coat your photo, picture side up, with 2-3 coats of Mod Podge. It is important to make sure photo is well sealed with Mod Podge as the resin will stain your photo if it comes in direct contact with the paper. Allow 15 to 20 minutes drying time for each coat.


Step 4: Repeat for the back of each image. Again, carefully seal with 2-3 coats of Mod Podge as the resin can stain the image, even from the back!


Step 5: Apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to the inside of the blank bezel. This will securely anchor the image to the bezel. The objective is to prevent the resin from seeping around the edges and underneath the image. If this happens, the coat of Mod Podge applied earlier to the back of the image should prevent any staining.

Step 6: Insert the picture into the bezel. Make sure it is flat and there are no air bubbles. Let dry 15-20 minutes.

Step 7: Mix the resin as instructed. Be sure to have everything dry and ready prior to mixing, as resin needs to be used immediately. Mix your resin in a well-ventilated area.

Step 8: Pour one layer of resin into the bezel (enough to cover your photo). Deeper bezels may need more than one pour, depending on manufacturer’s instructions. Be careful not to over pour.


Step 9: Remove any air bubbles using a butane lighter or by breathing (avoid inhaling the fumes) directly onto the bezel. The bubbles are released by carbon dioxide.

Step 10: Allow resin to cure, as per the instructions.

Step 11: String finished product with leather cord, add beads and embellishments for a little something extra.

Make it Even Better Tips:

This project is perfect for Instagram and Facebook images, since photos are being printed out in miniature sizes to fit your bezel. Therefore, photo quality is not a limiting factor.

I recommend working on this project in batches to maximize the use of the resin, and to keep moving during the times when you’re waiting on one piece to dry. Once mixed, the resin needs to be used immediately, so be sure to have a variety of bezels and photos ready for use. If not, you may end up wasting a lot of expensive resin.

I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to make sure your photo is completely sealed with Mod Podge before pouring the resin. It is more noticeable in lighter colored photos, but the resin will definitely stain if it comes in contact with your paper. I’ve found the most effective sealant to be Mod Podge Hard Coat.

Do not pour a thicker layer of resin than recommended. If poured too deep, the bubbles will get trapped while degassing. Resin also likes to be warm, in order to release trapped bubbles, so let pendants dry under a table lamp.

In today’s era of digital photography, it’s always rewarding to find physical uses for your photographs, taking them off the screen and onto something you can enjoy. Share your other ideas in the comments!

About The Author

Lindsey Leigh Graham is a beach-loving photographer based in coastal South Carolina. Her favorite subjects are the wildlife and landscapes of the Lowcountry, and she creates decorative and functional pieces of wall art to display her photos. Lindsey frequently contributes to the blog at

Filed Under: DIYTagged With: Jewelry, Lindsey Leigh Graham, Photo Projects, printing, Resin

I've dabbled with some photo resin jewelry making before but not entirely successfully. So when Fran Valera of Little Windowssent me some of her photo paper to try, I was most excited!  Little Windows was thus named after the beautiful window-like effect created by putting sharp images of photos into resin molds. These are specially designed to reflect the light and yet let it pass through in just the right spots. This easy photo resin jewelry tutorial is for pendants and earrings.

Little Windows has both one sided and double sided photo papers available.  I just happen to have two inkjet printers available - a HP Envy 4500 and a Canon Pixma MG3520 for this review.  Many modern printers can print photo paper although the HP Envy I have could not handle the thicker double sided paper so I had to use the Canon for that.

I also had on hand Canon Pixma photo paper to compare.  Glossy is always recommended as matte finishes do look dull. I know because I also have the matte version.

I also tested out Little Window's cropping software- the medium square and diamond shapes are free to use. It is very easy to use.

I uploaded my own photos of flowers taken at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Burlington, Ontario. You could also do landscape photos, pictures of your family and pets - these are some of the ideas!

The software automatically placed 8 images (they can be either the same or different photos) in two columns.

After saving the design template, printing is next.  Every printer is different. This is what the HP Envy printer set up I chose looked like.  If you have a gloss photo paper choice which I didn't have, then pick that. 

The newer printers have an automatic sizing paper loader too.

I printed out on the test paper that came with Little Windows paper as well as on the single sided photo paper and my Canon photo paper - all on the HP Envy printer.  It's clear from the results (see below) that you should notuse ordinary paper - the images looked washed out and yellow.

I couldn't tell much difference between Little Windows paper and Canon paper when I first looked at them. But after I took the photo below, I could see that the dark pink rose in particular at the top looked more vibrant on the Little Windows paper as did the next flower below.  The difference is very subtle though.

Cutting out the shapes is easy with the square shape. I prefer paper punches for round ones as it is more difficult to cut neatly around.

I also used one of Little Windows' small square punches (they have a great selection) to cut out small square shapes for earrings. An alternative to the cropping software which will save paper is to prepare your own template and size the shapes to slightly larger than what you want and use punches.

If you don't have the right size paper punch, use  the small mold set 's cutting template to crop a smaller image out of the medium square one.

I had to use my Canon printer to generate the double sided photo collection. It seems to print out slightly larger than my HP printer.  But that slight difference did not seem to matter.

I simply printed the same flower collection on both sides of Little Windows' double sided photo paper. I found photo register or printing precision on the other side was not quite right.  A quick trim with the scissors soon fixed that. Again the slightly adjusted size did not matter once it was time to drop it into the mold.

I've bought many brands of resin over the years. Little Windows' clear Brilliant Resinis superb for jewelry making. It is a low bubble producer and has a longer shelf life than other makes which already look yellow when you see them in the store.  I also like the clear  Art Resin brand which artists used for covering paintings. Some effort has been made to remove as much impurities from the clear resin brands. But I found Art Resin does general a lot more bubbles especially in a mold application than Little Windows' resin.

My eyes don't do well squinting at the markings of plastic cups so I just weigh out the resin in the 2: 1 ratio for the Little Windows brand. One of Fran's tip is to microwave Part A for 5-7 seconds before mixing. This does indeed get rid of more bubbles.

After mixing according to the directions, I poured the resin into the medium size square mold which I bought quite a while ago. There is no need for mold release as the inside of the mold already has it.  I recommend their economical new medium silicone mold set which has all the shapes.

Then slip in the cut photos. Make sure to move the photo about to release any trapped photos underneath it.

Remove bubbles by lifting them up and out with a toothpick or pin. Remember to turn the mold around so you catch the bubbles that may be out of your sight.

I suspect there is some slight reaction with the photo pigments and resin so fine bubbles do still form. So check a few times in the first hour of curing to turf out any that appear. Inevitably there will be some remaining. So embrace them as part of the designs!  The tiny ones look a little like glitter! Check out the wood and resin rings of Secret Woodand see what I mean.

I used the butane lighter approach to try and get rid of the tiny bubbles but it failed probably because I did not heat up the resin enough. I think the only way to really remove them is to use a vacuum pump and chamber.

I used the small square mold set for the earrings- they also have the new small silicone set for all the shapes in one. See what happened when I did not check properly :

The resin takes about 24 hours to cure. Always cover your resin work in progress to keep out the dust. I prefer my Ferrero Rocher chocolate box because the tray and cover is bigger than the clear box the molds come in. Besides, I need more chocolate!

Here is what the test 3 looked like - test paper, Little Windows paper and Canon paper. Again, when seen in a photo, the Little Windows paper looked the best. If you are planning to make jewelry to sell online and have to photograph your work, then Little Windows' photo paper makes sense.  Otherwise, other good photo paper (which don't bleed) will be fine.

The cured resin pieces are easier to remove from the silicone trays as you just peel them out. The plastic ones I used needed a twist or two before tapping them out. 

Sand the edges.  You can use various grades of wet-dry sandpaper in a tray of water which will contain the dust.  Or you could use a power tool (see how to use the split mandrel for power sanding).

The window effect is brilliant!

Use E6000 to glue a pendant bail.  Or a good 2 part epoxy adhesive.  I've found Super New Glue does not work well with resin.

The back of a double sided photo pendant will have part of the image covered with a bail. So think about a good background photo to use.

I used two types of small glue on bails for the earrings. I really like the pair on the left below uses these silver plated bails which are orientated such that you don't need jump rings. Just attach directly to the ear wires. This makes for shorter dangles.

You can also dome up the double sided photos on both sides. This is a two step process as you need to let the first side cure before you do the second side. Then you can drill a hole for the jump ring for necklaces and earrings.  I highly recommend Little Windows' silicone doming mat. Any accidental spills can later be peeled off.  I didn't proceed with this method because I am saving it for an idea which popped into my head.  Will share in the future.

Fran demonstrates how to quickly make resin photo bracelets using molds as well as the doming method in this tutorial.  You can also link up using her headpin wire wrap method.

Little Windows also offers a special discount code for readers of this blog : Use BG1516 for 15% off!

I had a lot of fun with making photo resin jewelry and plan to do more!  So many ideas.  I also enjoyed photographing the final project pictures. There are more pictures on my Etsyas four of them are now available for sale.

I used natural light, my iPhone 6S with the ProCamera app and the Modahaus TS400 tabletop studio and the Steady Stand (overhead) for final product photography. The tutorial pictures were taken with the same equipment but with artificial lights in my windowless basement studio. Check out my How to Photograph Jewelry Webinar .

I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links. This goes towards the support of this blog and to provide resource information to readers. The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.

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Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
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In resin pictures

They all finished together, husband in hand, friend in wife, wife on friend's penis. Having calmed down, the husband went to his room and immediately fell asleep. I woke up in the morning, my wife was not around. He jumped up and went to his friend's room. I saw my wife sleeping under the covers, my friend was not there.

Best Ways to Put Pictures in Resin - BLACKPINK - RESIN CRAFTS 101 - TIKTOK RESIN -

What is the next. The member has already begun to shake and was preparing to get up. All records promised to be broken.

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Met and passed two. What is the stupid law of the universe. - Let's sit on the bench, my legs are tired.

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