Heavily planted betta tank

Heavily planted betta tank DEFAULT

The idea that Betta fish can live in small, empty bowls is a sad misconception.

Like most fish, Betta fish are happiest when their tanks reflect an accurate representation of their natural environment. So, what exactly does the natural environment of Betta fish look like?

rice paddies betta fish

Notice anything surprising? Their natural habitat isn’t a tiny pond…in fact, rice paddies are massive in size and heavily planted.

Why, then, do pet stores spread the misconception that Betta fish are perfectly fine in tiny bowls?

The answer is sad, yet quite simple; to sell more fish. Pet stores know that they will sell more Betta fish if people think that they can simply put them in a $5 glass bowl and forget about them.

Since Betta fish are capable of breathing air from the surface, they have the unique ability to survive in small ponds for a short period of time. Pet stores capitalized on this ability and spread the lie that Bettas “thrive in tiny ponds in the wild” and are fine in small bowls. In reality, this couldn’t be further from the truth.

Betta fish only live in tiny spaces if it is a matter of life or death.

In reality, they are much happier, healthier, and more comfortable in large spaces with thick vegetation.

22 Best Betta Fish Plants: Our Top Picks

Here are 22 of the best live plants for betta fish tanks:

1. Amazon Sword

Amazon Sword plant

The broad leaves of the Amazon Sword make it a favorite among Betta fish. That said, the Amazon Sword has a few unique care requirements that you should keep in mind.

First, the Amazon Sword can grow quite large; as tall as 3 feet, depending on the species. As a result, it probably isn’t the best choice for a five gallon tank. These plants are better suited to Betta tanks at least 10 gallons in size or larger.

In addition, the Amazon Sword must be rooted a few inches deep into substrate to remain properly anchored as the broad leaves catch current and siphon hoses with ease.

Amazon Swords are also very nutrient-hungry betta fish plants. As a result, choosing a quality aquarium substrate is vital if you plan to keep these plants. The broad leaves of these plants make them little stages for fish displays, algae eating critters, and even breeding platforms for some fish and snails to lay their eggs upon!

  • Full Name: Amazon Sword Plant (Echinodorus spp.)
  • Care Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
  • Light Level: High

2. Anubias Nana

anubias nana

If you are searching for the perfect Betta fish plant, look no further. The Anubias Nana tops our list for several reasons:

First of all, the Anubias Nana has broad, wide leaves. Since Bettas are known to perch themselves on plant leaves to conserve energy and sleep, which makes Anubias Nanas a great fit for any Betta tank.

In addition, Anubias Nanas is small and easy to keep. They stay small enough to fit in any aquarium over 2 gallons and don’t require intensive lighting.

They don’t need much in terms of fertilizer and their leaves taste terrible to snails and other nibbling creatures. They can also be attached to rocks and driftwood as well as rooted in the substrate. Hence why Anubias Nanas is not only a great Betta fish plant but is also featured on our list of the best low light aquarium plants.

Finally, Anubias Nanas are notoriously slow growers. This may seem not seem like a great thing at first, but slow growing plants actually make aquarium care and maintenance much easier.

  • Full Name: Anubias Nana (Anubias Barteri var. Nana)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High (indiscriminate)

3. Marimo Moss Balls

marimo moss ball

Marimo Moss Balls are definitely one of the best options for anyone looking to add a unique plant to their Betta fish tank.

Interestingly, these unique spherical balls are actually a type of algae (don’t worry, not the bad kind). They live on lake beds in Japan and Northern Europe, where slow currents continually shape them into a spherical shape.

Marimo Moss Balls prefer cooler, even unheated aquariums, but will thrive at any temperature below 75 degrees. They also require high quality water with little nutrients or pollution load and indirect lighting. 

Marimo balls are also a favorite among Betta fish, shrimp, and other species. Bettas are known to use these moss balls as resting spots or even roll them around like a toy. Keep in mind that due to the lack of current in many smaller aquariums, your Marimo Ball may flatten out over time.

We highly recommend this species to anyone looking for an interesting conversation starter for your betta fish tank.

  • Full Name: Marimo Moss Ball (Aegagropila linnae)
  • Care Difficulty: Moderate
  • Light Level: Low

4. Java Fern

Microsorum pteropus - java fern

Java Ferns are great plants for Betta tanks because they are extremely easy to grow and do well in low lighting. I once grew a Java Fern in a jar for months with only the natural light in the room. Seriously, they’re that easy.

That said, be very careful when planting Java Ferns. The plant will die if you bury the rhizome. Attaching them with rubber bands or string to rocks, driftwood, and other anchor points is the best way to grow them.

Java Ferns are also slow growers, so you won’t need to trim them back every few days like you would have to do with Hornwort, Anacharis or other aggressive growers.

Lastly, Java Fern reproduces by creating tiny baby ferns along its mature leaves. The tiny new Java Ferns can be plucked off and attached to hard spots in your tank where they’ll eventually mature. 

  • Full Name: Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low to moderate

5. Water Sprite

water sprite

These aquatic ferns are a great plants for your Betta fish tank. In fact, a lot of Betta fish enthusiasts refer to Water Sprite as a “Betta fish playground” because of the way Bettas often hang out in the forest of leaves.

While tolerant of low light, they thrive in high light environments. They also tend to grow explosively, which makes them a great nutrient sponge but also a bit of a nuisance.

One thing that makes Water Sprite a great option is that it can be planted or let free to float on the surface. For a Betta tank, floating plants create great cover and can even encourage your Betta to build bubble nests.

Through Water Sprite is known to grow very quickly, it is one of the easiest plants to trim. Simply cut at the base of the stem and discard the leaves to prevent them from rotting in your tank.

Keep in mind that like most floating plants, Water Sprite can coat the surface, soaking up all available light and hindering plants growing under the water.

Thanks to their attractive appearance and ease of care, Water Sprite is a great beginner plant that fits in well in any Betta tank.

  • Full Name: Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate

6. Java moss

java moss

Java Moss is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium plants, and for good reason. This species is hardy, easy to care for, and visually appealing. Overall, Java Moss is the perfect beginner plants for Betta fish.

Java Moss doesn’t require any sort of intense light setup to grow well. In addition, it doesn’t need to be rooted into substrate, which makes it a popular choice among Betta fish owners.

Attach it to driftwood, let it carpet the bottom of the tank, or simply let it float; regardless or where you keep it, Java Moss is an easy and great plant for Betta tanks.

Java Moss tends to create a dense, untidy tangle of growth that Betta fish and other tank inhabitants love to explore. But it also requires regular maintenance and tends to get everywhere.

Other moss species, like Christmas Moss (see below), are slower growing but often easier to keep looking neat.

  • Full Name: Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri – with several related species also sold on occasion)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low to Moderate

7. Anacharis


Anacharis is a fast-growing, bright green plant that has become extremely popular in fish-keeping over the last few years. This species is known to help filter toxins and curb algae growth by soaking up nutrients and creating shade, making it a great plant for your Betta fish tank.

Anacharis can be planted or left to float, which gives Betta owners more options when it comes to the aquascaping of their tank.

Since this species often grows into thick “forests”, it acts as a great hiding place and gives your Betta a good spot to rest/sleep.

With its lush growth and soft leaves, Anacharis is a favorite of plant-eating snails and fish. But with how quickly it grows, a bit of browsing rarely causes the plant lasting harm.

Anacharis loves light and will drop its lower leaves if light levels get too dim. This creates a threadbare, rather ugly look that’s a signal for you to think about investing in more lighting.

  • Full Name: Anacharis or Elodea (Elodea densa)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate to High

8. Pennywort


Pennywort is a versatile aquarium plant that can thrive under, on, or above the water surface. It is easy to care for and has very low lighting requirements, making it a popular plant for Betta tanks.

If you’re so inclined, the plant is even edible for humans, with spicy notes reminiscent of black pepper.

Pennywort naturally gravitates to the surface as fast as an inch per week to soak up light, where it creates great cover for Bettas. It has a tendency to cover the surface quite quickly, so make sure to trim it often to ensure the surface doesn’t get smothered out (this can be dangerous for Bettas since they often breath from the surface).

As long as you don’t let it take over your tank, Pennywort is an interesting and visually appealing plant that is perfect for most Betta tanks.

  • Full Name: (Brazilian) Pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephala)
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate to High

9. Duckweed


A lot of planted tank owners have a love/hate relationship with Duckweed.

On one hand, Duckweed is a unique surface plant that gives tanks a swampy, natural look. Duckweed is also great for sucking up excess nutrients and helping Bettas and other surface dwellers feel less exposed in the water column.

On the other hand, Duckweed tends to grow extremely fast and can be hard to eradicate once established in a tank. It will float and sink with any sort of current – and if you decide you want to be rid of Duckweed, you have to thoroughly eradicate it. Even a single remaining plant will become several more in the course of days.

An overabundance of Duckweed can also block a significant amount of light from reaching lower-level plants, stunting their growth.

Make sure it doesn’t completely cover the surface if you plan to keep this species. Placing a floating plastic ring is a great way to corral it and keep Duckweed from taking over the surface of your planted Betta tank.

  • Full Name: Duckweed (Lemna minor)
  • Care Difficulty: Very (too) Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High

10. Hygrophila


Hygrophila is a broad leaf plant popular among planted aquarium enthusiasts. The large leaves provide great resting spots for Betta fish, making it a useful and effective choice.

Since Hygrophila can grow up to 28″ tall, so a 20+ gallon tank is recommended. This species tends to grow quickly, so can will outgrow smaller aquariums in no time.

Hygrophila will tolerate low light levels but will drop its lower leaves and take on a stringy, rather ugly look. High light levels, especially in deep tanks, will keep it looking its very best. 

Hygrophila can be a great choice for those who were already planning to give their Betta fish a little more room than normally required. They also come in red leafed forms for those looking for a splash of background color!

  • Full Name: Hygrophila (Hygrophila polysperma)
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate to High

11. Hornwort


Hornwort is popular in Betta aquariums because it is easy to care for and versatile. It’s capable of thriving either planted in the substrate or floating at the tank surface, and provides great cover for Betta fish.

Hornwort grows quickly, even in low light setups. Be careful when trimming this plant; it tends to be delicate and you really don’t want the bristles floating all around the tank (they take a while to clean up but pose no other problem).

Hornwort is also great at removing toxins and nitrate. As long as you don’t mind a little extra maintenance, Hornwort is a great choice for Betta setups.

  • Full Name: Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High

12. Wisteria

water wisteria

Water Wisteria is a popular aquarium plant that is known to thrive in low-light setups. The unique appearance and interesting leaf patterns of Wisteria will help give any Betta tank some extra flair.

Water Wisteria can be grown as a single plant rooted or trimmed to form a carpeting foreground plant. It even changes the shape of its leaves depending on how its planted.

Free-growing Water Wisteria can grow pretty large (over a foot tall), so it may not be the best choice for smaller aquariums. With regular trimmings and good care, a 10 gallon tank should suffice.

  • Full Name: Water Wisteria (Hydrophila difformis)
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate

13. Amazon Frogbit

frogbit aquarium plant

If you love the look of Duckweed but don’t want the invasive mess it makes, Amazon Frogbit is a great alternative.

Frogbit is a great plant for Betta fish tanks because it grows much larger, making it easier to weed and maintain. The dangling roots are also much larger, giving the Betta and its tankmates a complex environment to navigate and build nests in.

Like Duckweed, Amazon Frogbit is a nutrient sponge but will also shade out anything beneath it. You’ll need either surface areas protected from its growth to allow additional light in or really love Frogbit. As hardy and easy to grow as it is, you’ll have plenty of it in no time at all.

  • Full Name: Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laeviatum)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High

14. Anubias Barteri

Anubias Barteri

If you’re a fan of bulletproof Betta fish plants, look no further. Anubias Barteri is a West African plant that, like Anubias Nana, is slow growing but undemanding in terms of light and water requirements.

Snails and vegetarian fish find the tough leaves unpalatable but algae will occasionally find them great growing platforms. 

Anubias Barteri grows significantly taller than Nana; maxing out at around 18-24″ in height. All Anubias species prefer being attached to hard surfaces like rocks and driftwood; burying the rhizome can cause rot and even death.

When content, Anubias Barteri may even send a flowering spike with a single white, fragrant flower to the surface!

  • Full Name: Anubias Barteri (Anubias Barteri var. barteri)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High

15. Banana Plant

These striking plants are found in warm, slow moving waters throughout the Southeastern United States. The “bananas” of a Banana Plant are specialized roots that store nutrients for lean times in the future.

The leaves are broad and race to the surface where they form lily pads to soak up all the light it can. Banana Plant leaf color varies depending on the variety and light intensity from reddish purple to lime green.

As plants for Betta fish tanks, Banana Plants are undemanding and easy to care for. They also create a lily pad look without being as invasive as Duckweed or Frogbit (though make sure the pads don’t shade neighboring plants).

  • Full Name: Banana Plant (Nymphoides aquatica)
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High

16. Aponogeton ulvaceus

As an African alternative to Amazon Swords, Aponogeton Ulvaceus have delicately twirly, translucent leaves that grow a foot or larger in length.

This, combined with their undemanding nature makes them great show plants for Betta fish tanks. Aponogeton Ulvaceus comes in several varieties with different colors, leaf shapes, and adult sizes. 

They are usually sold as dried bulbs, making them easy to purchase across the country. Once buried in a new aquarium, new leaves quickly bolt for the surface, allowing you to really appreciate watching your new plant get established.

  • Full Name: Aponogeton ulvaceus
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate

17. Cryptocoryne parva

cryptocoryne parva

Cryptocoryne parva is a unique plant for the Betta fish tank that can help create a foreground carpet without too much work. While undemanding, Cryptocoryne parva does prefer high light levels to spur its growth.

Given that it remains short and grows fairly slowly, it takes constant nutrient access and no shading plants to get lush, verdant growth. Slow growing plants have the advantage of needing less trimming and maintenance, however.

  • Full Name: Cryptocoryne parva
  • Care Difficulty: Moderate
  • Light Level: High

18. Christmas Moss

Vesicularia montagnei - christmas moss

While superficially similar to Java Moss, Christmas Moss is an equally hardy, much slower growing species with a similar look.

Instead of swarming over every surface available, Christmas Moss forms tidy little bunches that look like fir trees. Over time, you’ll have a forest of little trees, making them a great addition to the plants for Betta tanks.

Undemanding and hardy, Christmas Moss prefers moderate lighting but will tolerate nearly any light levels and warm water; 78 to 80 degrees.

  • Full Name: Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Moderate

19. Marsilea Minuta

Marsilea Minuta is not as well known as some of the other plants here, but is a fantastic choice due to its ease of care.

As long as the light levels are high and the substrate not too poor, Marsilea Minuta will form a carpet of clover-like leaves that will fill in any bare, well-lit spots. In lower lighting environments it will tend to run tall, reaching for the light instead of hugging the substrate.

Marsilea Minuta can tolerate a wide range of water temperatures. While not a fast grower, with a bit of dedication, Marsilea will create a lush playground for your Betta fish tank.

  • Full Name: Marsilea Minuta
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: High

20. Pygmy Chain Sword Plant

Echinodorus Tenellus pygmy chain sword

As the name suggests, Pygmy Chain Swords tend to grow by sending runners throughout the substrate.

Baby sword plants pop up along the runners, mature, and branch out further until you have a lush lawn of tiny sword plants that really looks just like grass! 

While tolerant of a range of pH and temperature conditions, they prefer high lighting for growth and a rich substrate will encourage them to spread.

As Betta fish tanks tend to be small, they’re also easy to keep brightly lit. That’s why Pygmy Chain Swords are one of the most popular foreground plants for Betta fish tanks.

  • Full Name: Pygmy Chain Sword Plant (Echinodorus Tenellus)
  • Care Difficulty: Moderate
  • Light Level: High

21. Cryptocoryne Wendtii

cryptocoryne in aquarium

Cryptocoryne Wendtii is a very undemanding plant from Sri Lanka that’s a perfect Betta fish plant for low light levels. In fact, high light levels will actively cause it harm, as it tends to grow in the shade of overhanging trees and taller aquatic plant species. Slow moving water like within a planted aquarium suits it best.

Cryptocoryne Wendtii has leaves that vary between dark green and a reddish brown color.

They tend to max out at 6 to 8 inches in height and are a slower growing species. C. Wendtii comes both in potted form as well as dried bulbs.

  • Full Name: Cryptocoryne Wendtii
  • Care Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Light Level: Low

22. Vallisneria


Vallisneria is a genus of plants so popular with aquarists you can buy them in plastic! They’re responsible for the eel grass look that people often associate with aquatic life and thankfully, are extremely undemanding and easy to care for.

Vallisneria come in several species, including V. spiralis (with twisting corkscrew leaves) and V. gigantea, which can grow tall enough to curl over the surface of your planted Betta tank!

Pruning back Vallisneria is as simple as taking scissors and making your cuts as needed.

As long as they have adequate nutrients and light, Vallisneria will create a stunning backdrop plant that accents the mid ground and hides filter pipes, hoses, and other unsightly elements!

  • Full Name: Vallisneria spp.
  • Care Difficulty: Easy
  • Light Level: Low to High

Lighting Requirement for Live Plants

If you decide to stock your tank with live plants (vs fake plants, which we will cover below), you’ll need a light source to keep you plants alive.

If you still don’t have your Betta tank set up you (or if you’re looking to upgrade) our recommendation would be to purchase a quality all-in-one system. All in one systems contain all lighting and filtration that you’ll need. We recommend the Fluval Spec V.

If you’re not looking for a whole new setup, you can purchase a standalone light such as the NICREW Classic. Just make sure that you measure your tank and get one that is the right length.

Using Fake Plants for Betta Fish Tanks

For those who don’t want the responsibility of caring for live plants, fake Betta fish plants are always a great option.

When considering fake plants for your Betta fish, try to look for plants that are made from silk. Other types of material can harm your Betta’s skin if they aren’t made well.

Here are a few of the best fake plants for Bettas:

Zoo Med Betta Hammock

Zoo Med Laboratories AZMBL20 Betta Hammock
Zoo Med Laboratories AZMBL20 Betta Hammock

Simple and easy to use, this Zoo Med Betta Hammock will instantly become your Bettas favorite hang out. Just stick to the side of your tank near the surface and watch as your Betta makes itself at home.

The Zoo Med Betta Hammock is a single leaf that easily sticks to the side of any tank. Though it may look overly simple, this plant functions as a “hammock” for your Betta and allows it to rest away from water flow.

In the wild, Bettas often like to perch themselves on wide leaf plants to conserve energy and sleep. The Zoo Med Betta Hammock perfectly replicates this in any home aquarium. This small addition will quickly become your Betta’s favorite spot!

Though this plant isn’t silk, it is soft enough to not harm your Betta’s fins.

Marino Natural Silk Red Plant

If you are looking for something to add a little more color to your tank, this colorful piece by Marino Natural is a great choice.

Measuring about 6 inches tall, this plant is large enough to become the main piece of any Betta tank. In addition, the silk material and soft edges assures that your Betta is 100% safe and comfortable.

Perhaps the best feature of this plant is the large leaves. They function as a good alternative to a Betta hammock and provide a good place for your Betta to rest or sleep.

Overall, this plant by Marino is a great choice for any Betta tank that needs a little color.

So…Live or Fake Plants?

The decision to go with live or fake plants for your Betta tanks is completely dependent on you. Here are a few advantages and disadvantages of keeping live plants:

small aquarium with plants

Advantages of Keeping Live Plants

  • Visually Pleasing: There are not many things more beautiful than a naturally planted aquarium. Its almost like having a little slice of the Amazon River right in your house. Adding live plants to your Betta tank gives it a real, natural look that plastic plants simply can’t compete with. Though plastic plants are much more realistic that they were years ago, they still don’t match the beauty and movements of live plants.
  • Better Filtration: A lot of fish owners get super hung up on their filtration systems, but completely ignore live plants. In reality, live plants are one of the best filtration systems you can own. As plants grow, they remove toxins and unwanted compounds (such as nitrate) from the water and use it as fuel for growth. You can’t beat natures original filter!
  • Aeration: As plants grow, they remove carbon dioxide from the water and replace it with oxygen. A high dissolved oxygen concentration helps promote fish health, reduce algae growth, and lends to an overall healthier tank. The mutually beneficial relationship between plants and fish is really quite amazing.
  • Reduced Algae Growth: Algae and plants often compete for the same nutrients. By adding plants to your Betta tank, you are dramatically reducing the amount of nutrients available to unwanted algae. Algae eaters are another great way to reduce algae growth without harmful chemicals.

Disadvantages of Keeping Live Plants

  • Maintenance: Fake plants are a “set and forget” kind of thing. Live plants, on the other hand, require more work. You have to make sure the plants have enough lighting and nutrients, trim them every few weeks, and pay more attention to water conditions. In addition, some species can be difficult to care for and require supplemental aquarium fertilizers and additives.
  • Lighting Requirements: Live plants need light to survive. Though most of the plants on our list are easy to care for and don’t require specialized lighting, not every type is so easy. Large tanks with more difficult plants can require expensive lighting and CO2 systems.


Setting Up a Betta Fish Tank

We know that keeping your Betta fish in a bowl is wrong…but how do you set up a Betta tank the right way?

Picking out a good tank for your Betta is a crucial step in the process. As we talked about before, small bowl are not a good option.

Stay for away from the “kits” sold at pet stores (you usually pay way too much and the quality is really bad). Whatever tank you choose, it should preferably be at least 5 gallons. The smaller the tank is, the less water volume there is to buffer sudden changes in temperature or chemistry.

We recommend the Fluval Spec V (5 Gallon Model). It offers a lot of space for your Betta and comes with a light capable of growing most plants.

Related Content: In you are interested in putting together a more serious planted tank, check out our all-inclusive beginners guide to setting up a planted aquarium.

Final Thoughts

Unfortunately, the idea that Betta fish are capable of living in small, unfiltered bowls has become a popular misconception in the hobby. As we have learned today, this is neither healthy nor enjoyable for your fish.

As a result, responsible Betta owners should do everything possible to provide a natural, healthy environment for their fish. Part of this means giving your Betta enough space (at least 5 gallons) and enough hiding/rest spots (plants).

By following this guide, you should be able to put together a stunning naturally planted tank and give your Betta fish the best life possible!

Sours: https://www.buildyouraquarium.com/betta-fish-plants/

Bettas may survive just fine in those little cups at the pet store for a week or so, as they wait for you to bring them home, but they actually have all the same needs as any other fish for a long, healthy life. The wild ancestors of our domestic Bettas come from densely vegetated, quiet bodies of water. You can create a beautiful, small garden-home for your Betta, and have, not only a gorgeous slice of nature to sit on your desk, but also a home for your Betta that will keep him health, happy, and displaying at his best for you. And it’s not even hard! First tip, however… Don’t buy your Betta yet! Get his new home all set up for him FIRST and give it some time to settle in before bringing your new pet home.

You can find everything you need at your pet store or on line. The easiest way to a healthy Betta home, is to start with an “all in one” aquarium. I chose the Fluval Spec V. This is a 5 gallon tank. While you could get away with a slightly smaller tank, a 5 gallon tank is large enough to be pretty stable, and gives you some room for a pretty “aquascape” (the common term for a pretty garden style aquarium) The nice thing about these all-in-one tank systems is that you get the tank, light, and filtration system all combined. I like this particular tank because all the equipment is hidden in the end panel. There is no unsightly equipment showing inside the tank.

Bettas are warm water fish, even by tropical fish standards, and really need a heater in their tank unless your home is uncommonly warm. There is room in the Fluval Spec to put a small, submersible, adjustable, thermostatically controlled heater in the space behind the dark panel.  If you choose a tank that doesn’t give you this option, you can also hide a submersible heater by placing it horizontally, across the back of the tank. Set the temperature of your heater to between 75° and 80° F.

You will also need some “hardscape” materials (rocks and or wood) to decorate your tank. Most independent aquarium stores carry a good selection of hardscape materials these days.

The big box stores may have some, or you may have to venture further afield. Please patronize your good independent store if you have one. If not, there are lots of online sources of hardscape materials.

Last, you will need substrate for your tank. Plants need nutrition, just like your fish do, and the easiest way to provide this is with a commercial, soil based substrate. I have used Fluval Stratum in this tank, but there are other good options too. Be aware that there are a number of commercial “planted tank substrates” available that do not provide any nutrition for your plants. You can use these, but you will need to feed your plants from the very beginning, while in a nutrient rich soil based substrate, the plants can find their own nourishment for quite a while. You should avoid “fish tank gravel”, because it not only contains no nutrition, but it is also hard for the plants to grab with their roots.

One problem with these little tanks is that the light included is not very bright. For this reason, it is important to choose plants that will grow in fairly dim light conditions. But that’s OK! As long as you choose wisely, these shade tolerant aquatic plants will also grow more slowly, meaning you won’t have to trim your tiny tank too often! I chose the following plants, all available from Florida Aquatic Nurseries. You may be able to buy these right off the rack or out of the tanks at your pet store, but if not, ask them to order them for you. It is much better to have all the plants you need when you set up your tank rather than trying to add them piecemeal later. I have included the scientific names of these plants as well as the common names (where there is one) to avoid confusion. Lots of beginners prefer common names, but in the world of aquatic plants, often there aren’t common names, and sometimes common names are used for more than one, (sometimes quite different) plant. All of that can lead to confusion.

Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Narrow leafed


Normal leafed

Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Bronze’

“Moss Balls” (Aegagropila linnaei)

Bucephalandra “Green Wav

Anubias barteri Var. ‘Nana’

Anubias barteri Var. ‘Nana’ Petite

Hydrocotyle cf. tripartita

I chose these particular plants because they will all grow nicely in a “low tech” tank (low to moderate light without supplemental CO2) , and although they will eventually need trimming, none will get too large for a small tank.

Once you have all your plants and equipment it is time to get going! With a small tank like this, I find it convenient to set it up on my kitchen counter, where I can get as messy as I want. This size tank is light enough to be picked up and moved easily once it is set up, but before you fill it with water. With a tank much bigger than 5-7 gallons, you will want to set it up in its permanent position, on a sturdy surface designed to hold weight. Remember, water is heavy.  It weighs over 8 lbs. per gallon. That means that a little 5 gallon tank weighs over 40 lbs. once filled. A ten gallon tank weighs over 80! A 5-7 gallon tank is fine on the corner of most desks. A ten gallon tank will be safer on a dedicated aquarium stand unless you are certain the piece of furniture you plan to use is up to the task.

First pour your substrate into the tank. You do not need to rinse commercial aquatic plant substrates as long as you fill the tank carefully. We’ll talk about that later! Your substrate will look best if it is quite shallow and straight along the front edge, but you want more depth in the back so that plants can root. For this tank, I chose Fluval Stratum, which is soil based and perfect for growing aquatic plants that root in the substrate. You could also choose an inert substrate like Eco-Complete or Seachem Flourite. That type of substrate gives plants a good place to anchor their roots, but provides them with no nutrition. So it puts a little more responsibility on you in terms of their care. The cost of both types of substrate is similar, which is why I suggest Stratum, which will nourish your plants.

For this tank, I have chosen “pagoda stone” a rock commonly available at aquarium shops. Whatever stone you decide to use, stick to just one type in any particular tank. It will look much more natural. The wood I chose was a nice, branchy piece of “spider wood”, again a type of wood that is widely available through aquarium stores. Try to avoid having sawed off edges show. However, these tanks are narrow from back to front, and you may find that you need to trim your wood to fit. Just make sure that the cuts are in the back where they don’t show.

Also make sure that there is enough space all around your hardscape to be able to clean. You may not be able to fit your hand, but you need to at least be able to get a scraper through to clean the glass. 

Sours: https://www.floridaaquatic.com/news/2018/3/5/an-easy-planted-betta-tank-dbccw
  1. Robert martin rutgers
  2. Gmc obd2 codes
  3. Teal outdoor christmas lights

10 planted tank myths

1. Plants require soft water

Every plant I’ve owned I’ve successfully grown in hard water, including some of the hobby’s most demanding species.

Some, such as Vallisneria, thrive in hard water as they utilise the bi-carbonates. Those with very soft water may need to supplement magnesium, calcium and potassium levels in addition to their regular fertilisers. Some with extremely hard water have found it hard to grow certain species and require more CO2.

However, I have known aquascapers in London, having some of the UK’s hardest water, enjoy success with any plant they wish to grow.

Softer water is recommended for certain fish, especially for breeding, but if growing plants with bread and butter fish there should be no need to soften water.

2. Planted tanks will do best with heater cables

I have run more than 30 planted tanks without heater cables, many long term, and many aquascapers and planted aquarium hobbyists no longer consider them effective.

Heater cables can be relatively expensive and in some situations are not recommended. One manufacturer of a complete soil-based product now feels they can result in the leeching of excess nutrients into the water.

It’s better and less expensive to rely on healthy root growth to provide sufficient production of oxygen, prevent excess anaerobic bacteria and the foul-smelling hydrogen sulphide.

Invest in a better filter, CO2 system or quality substrate, as these will prove more beneficial.

3. Adding more algae eaters will solve any major algae issues

Algae eaters are ideal in limiting minor background levels of algae that occur naturally, even in a healthy planted aquarium.However, you can’t rely on them to solve bigger issues. The cause needs to be addressed, otherwise the stuff simply comes back.

Some bigger algae eaters can also contribute to a problem — via their waste. The best defence is to prevent it by providing healthy plant growth with appropriate lighting and nutrients.

4. Planted tanks should have low water turnover

Low turnover is fine in lower energy set-ups with lower lighting and nutrient levels, and many successful tanks thrive in such conditions. However, anecdotal evidence suggests that aquatic plants thrive in aquariums with higher levels of circulation.

There’s a difference between flow and circulation. Plants placed in extreme levels of flow may not thrive, due to the physical stresses, so have a consistent flow all over the aquarium. This can be created via a spraybar fitted to the filter outlet, or lily pipes.

Newer powerhead designs giving a wider flow pattern are also popular with those enthusiasts wanting to supplement the flow from their filters.

Aim for a filter that claims to turn over volume ten times per hour, but also consider how the water is delivered to ensure good all-over circulation. Different fish prefer different levels of flow, so consider this when setting up.

5. Aquarium plants require loads of light

Hobbyists seem to be growing what used to be regarded as difficult species in tanks with very relatively low light. Providing the plants are sufficiently fed via good nutrients and circulation then most species can be successfully grown with two T8 fluorescents with reflectors or an equivalent.

Even the most demanding species can be grown with just two T5s in aquariums at 60cm/24” or less and I have maintained a healthy hairgrass carpet with one T5 and seven-hour photoperiod for more than six months.

Photoperiods rarely need to exceed eight hours and using as little light as possible has benefits. It reduces the risk of nuisance algae. It also lowers running costs and energy usage. Maintenance is reduced, less CO2 is necessary and less fertilisers are required.

However, plants need good nutrients and circulation for healthy growth in low light. Add a comprehensive liquid fertiliser daily — one also providing nitrogen and phosphorous if you have low fish stock — and an additional source of carbon, either from liquid carbon or CO2 gas.

6. Planted tanks need minimal surface agitation

This isn’t true. In fact, in some circumstances this can be dangerous. Surface agitation effectively maintains ample oxygen levels in the water.

If CO2 injection is employed then gas levels build up more rapidly without any surface movement to drive it off. High CO2 levels and low oxygen levels are a deadly mix and often result in livestock death.

Employ a good amount of surface movement via an appropriately configured filter outlet or powerhead. You may go through more gas, but this is a worthwhile trade-off to ensure good oxygen levels.

At night, when plants use up oxygen and release CO2, ensure appropriate oxygen levels and some enthusiasts will add extra surface agitation during this period.

7. The hi-tech approach is not necessary. Aquarium plants could be grown just as easily 25 years ago

This is true to an extent with easy plants such a Java fern, Amazon swords, crypts, Anubias, and vallis for example. However, I challenge anyone to grow a nice tight carpet of submersed Glossostigma elatinoides or Hemianthus calliirichoides without some carbon enrichment, coupled with good lighting, circulation and regular macro and micronutrient dosing.

Many of today’s aquascapers like to grow relatively demanding plants so they will require higher levels of lighting, and therefore have a higher carbon and other nutrient requirement.

Some also like to grow-in their aquascapes quickly, so they can move on to their next project.

To do this they need high-energy systems and the associated equipment. While it’s possible to have a successful and long-term planted aquarium without resorting to ‘modern’ growing methods, it does make it easier and is essential for some species.

8. Specialist plant growth tubes are essential in the planted tank

Fluorescent tubes sold as ideal for plant growth will do no harm, but they can be relatively expensive and often give a less attractive colour rendition.

Most have peaks in the blue and red of the spectrum and therefore give a pink or purple hue that can seem unnatural. It can be less expensive and more attractive to use full-spectrum tubes rated at around 6,500K. These typically have peaks in the green, as well as blue and red to give a pleasant, natural rendition.

Depending on set-up you may wish to use a warmer or cooler Kelvin rating. Some aquascapes, such as lush jungles and Dutch tanks, suit more yellow/orange hues, so consider 3,000-4,000K.

More clinical aquascapes can look better with cooler lighting, such as 8,000-10,000K.

Plants are not fussy, providing there’s enough light.

9. It is impossible to maintain a pristine nature aquarium for the long term

I have maintained many pristine-looking tanks for the long term, some for more than two years, like the one at the top of the page. The key is regular and consistent maintenance, combined with reliable and appropriate equipment.

Despite having spent around 12 months of weekdays living away from home I have kept up to three planted aquariums, and even a reef tank — relying on giving simple instructions to my family to keep things going in my absence.

Once a week I would dedicate a few hours to the aquariums and nip potential issues in the bud via some preventative maintenance. This would include large water changes, pruning, algae removal, glass wiping, filter cleaning and substrate maintenance.

As soon as I spot any minor issues I deal with them before they develop. If I see an unhealthy leaf I remove it. If I see a spot of algae on the glass, it gets wiped pronto!

10. Nitrates and phosphates cause algae in the planted tank

This is perhaps one of the most controversial statements of recent times. Many people actually still believe that nitrates and phosphates cause algae in a healthy and heavily planted tank.

However, since the early 1990s, many hobbyists have been adding nitrates and phosphates via dry chemicals to their planted tanks and some companies are producing liquid fertilisers containing nitrates and phosphates.

Even some marine aquarium owners specialising in growing various macroalgae add nitrates and phosphates.

I have added liquid fertilisers containing nitrates and phosphates continuously over the last eight years to all my planted tanks and I rarely suffer algae issues.

However, adding these nutrients is not always appropriate in every case. If not heavily planted and a high fish load, sufficient nitrates and phosphates for the tank’s well-being may already be present in your water.

Sours: https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/10-planted-tank-myths/

Do Betta Fish Like Live Plants in Their Tanks and Should You Add Them?

Page Contents

Live plants in my betta fish aquarium?

Did you know that growing live plants in a betta fish tank is beneficial for many reasons? When you add aquatic plants to your aquarium they can be both aesthetically pleasing and functional – plus your betta fish will love it!


Natural aquatic plants don’t have to be hard work or difficult to maintain, you should have live plants in your aquarium because they have so many benefits to both your lovely betta fish and its environment, including…

  • Live plants help keep water conditions optimal. They do this by acting as a natural filter against many harmful chemicals (harmful to tropical fish) that build up in the tank. Chemicals include, carbon dioxide, sulphur substances and nitrogenous wastes.
  • Live plants convert these harmful chemicals into oxygen! Oxygenising the water – allowing your betta fish to breathe in the water.
  • Betta fishes’ natural environment is in heavily planted rice paddies. Your betta fish will love the fact that there are live plants to hide in and swim around! 🙂
  • Live plants create shade, something betta fish enjoy, but also, something that helps reduce the growth of algae in your tank.
  • Fake and ornamental plants can have quite sharp / rough edges, this does not go well with a betta fish’s delicate flowing fins! Fake plants can cause damage and injuries, like paper cuts. If you do opt for a fake plant, feel the softness of the leaves and opt for a silk based plant.

Where should I buy live plants for my betta aquarium?

Just like your betta fish you should buy your live plants from a reputable dealer. The best aquarium dealers will offer good, sound advice and deliver great personal customer service.

You should buy live plants from dealers that offer healthy plants, if you start seeing yellow or rotting sections of plants within the store’s aquarium, start to think twice! All the plants in the store’s aquarium should be a healthy green with sturdy leaves and stems.

Amazon Pet Supplies

The live aquatic plants can be bought in a few forms – cuttings, rooted clumps or in their own plastic pot.

Live Plant Top Tip:Look out for small snails on the live plants you buy. These little creatures can help you by eating algae, but be careful, they also can multiply to huge proportions and before you know it they will be eating away at your carefully planted aquarium! (They have plagued many a tank.)

Live plants make your tank look great!

Positioning your aquatic plants and ornaments is called aquascaping (we have a blog on this site from aqauscape.info on just that topic if you need more info). Also, check out this video below – we love how simple this setup is if you’re looking for something a little easier to achieve.


Some aquascaping general tips…

  • The tallest plants should be at the back of the tank, and as you work your way towards the front the plants should be shorter.
  • Tall and bushy plants can be used to hide equipment.
  • For a natural-looking habitat, try to only use two or three different plant species.
  • It is often easier to plant these plants once the tank is already partially filled with water.

So, should you have live plants in your aquarium? It is highly recommended and I bet your loving betta fish friend thinks you should have live plants in your aquarium too!!

Check out our guide to adding live plants to an aquarium for easy step-by-step instructions.

Please share with the betta fish-loving community the names of the live plants your aquarium houses, and any experiences you have! Thank you for taking the time to read this!

Should You Have Living Plants in Your Aquarium - JapaneseFightingFish,org

Last Updated: October 6, 2021

Sours: https://japanesefightingfish.org/should-i-have-live-plants-in-my-aquarium/

Planted betta tank heavily

How to setup beta fish tank with no filter, heater, CO2, fertilizer:

Betta is a beautiful fish showing its vivid colors & amazing fins. It needs a home where it can live a stress free & healthy life.

People usually keep betta in a little bowl which does not mean that it is living a good life because betta in such environment can become ill. Don’t put betta in a tank lower than 5 gallons. If you use a bigger aquarium, then it is better for betta.

Betta needs space for swimming in the aquarium & needs caves where it can hide. Also if your tank has live plants then it is a bonus for this fish. Plants can convert betta’s waste (which is toxic as it releases ammonia in the water) into nitrite (still toxic & can cause death of fish) & further converts it into nitrate which is less toxic for fish & can be removed by changing water regularly. Hence plants provide a natural filter for betta & adds to the beauty of the tank too. Betta likes lounging on plant leaves & it feels more secure & comfortable to hide in the plants & take rest. Plants can also provide a natural environment for betta.

Many people think that betta fish is able to live in small aquariums or bowls, & they do not need large environment. Also they think that people keep bettas in bowls or vases which means they do not need clean tanks. However, those are misconceptions because bettas need more space to swim & need a clean oxygenated aquarium. To oxygenate water & keep it clean, you will need aquarium plants.

Watch video below which shows how to setup betta aquarium with no heater, no filter, no CO2 & no fertlizer.

Setup betta aquarium with no filter

A filter will keep the water clean but a betta tank without a filter, heater, CO2, fertilizer is possible and I will share in this article how you could setup a betta tank with low tech.

Setup Betta Fish Tank With No Filter

Setup Betta Fish Tank With No Filter

Tank Size:

Betta Tank Size

Betta Tank Size

A betta fish should not be kept in a 1-gallon tank; size should be at least 5-gallon or 20 liters. In my opinion, bettas need larger aquariums because they need more space to swim & bigger tanks can hold plants which can act as filter. Also little tanks are not preferable because you won’t be able to maintain water quality because ammonia spikes can happen very rapidly. Also you won’t need more maintenance if your tank size is big. You can keep betta fish in a nano tank without filter, heater, CO2 & fertilizers if the tank is heavily planted.


Betta fish are considered semi aggressive but every betta has its own nature. Some of them are aggressive & they fight with mates but others are so calm that they are stressed by mates. So in my opinion, it is better to keep betta alone. But if you want to keep other species with betta then you must notice your fish for 3 days & remove the new mates if you see any aggression. Listed below are fish species that can hopefully live in peace with betta.

Betta Tank Mates

Betta Tank Mates

  1. Mystery Snails
  2. Ghost Shrimp
  3. Feeder Guppies
  4. Cory Catfish
  5. Harlequin Rasbora
  6. Neon Tetras
  7. Ember Tetras
  8. Clown Plecos
  9. Kuhli Loach

No Filter:

Plants act as a natural filter in betta tank

Plants act as a natural filter in betta tank

Bettas need an environment that has enough oxygen & you can add live plants which will help you in achieving this objective. Also you need to do regular water changes if you are not using any tank filter. We recommend a 40% water change after every 3 days in a no filter aquarium. Also filters can make a water flow which is very harsh for bettas.

In order to have a betta fish tank setup with no filter, no heater, no CO2 and no fertilizer, the tank must be kept at room temperature and it should be heavily planted.

No Heater:

No need of heater if tank is kept at room temperature

No need of heater if tank is kept at room temperature

If you live in a place where water temperature does not fall below 24 degrees Celsius then you do not need a heater. Also if the tank is kept inside the house at room temperature, then a heater is not required either. Monitor your tank temperature using a thermometer.

No Fertilizer:

Betta waste is fertilizer for plants

Betta waste is fertilizer for plants

If you want to keep plants healthy then you will need fertilizers which can help them grow. However, fish waste can act as fertilizers for plants & no external fertilizers are required if you have fish in your aquarium because the wastes are consumed by plants.

Betta fish waste settles in the substrate of the aquarium where it is decomposed and release ammonia in the tank. In the presence of light, plant will utilize all this waste (nitrate bi products) to grow and in return give betta fish a clean tank to live in.

No CO2:

Plants inhale CO2 expired out by fish

Plants inhale CO2 expired out by fish

Just like humans breathe oxygen, plants inhale CO2. Most of the tank plants do not need extra CO2 because most of CO2 they require is expired out by fish in your aquarium. If you are planning to keep bettas & plants in one aquarium, then in my opinion a no supplemented CO2 tank is a good option.

Sours: https://www.fishaholic.net/2020/03/setup-betta-fish-tank-with-no-filter.html
Heavily Planted Betta Fish Tank OR is it?

The Best Plants For Betta Fish Tanks

When you’re deciding how to set up your tank, choosing what plants to have is a big decision. You need to decide whether you want them to be fake or real. Floating or submerged. And on top of that if you’re a beginner you’re also going to want to pick a plant you know you can manage. Don’t worry, after reading this article you’re going to know what all the best plants for betta fish tanks are!


Do Betta Fish Like Plants?

Before you think about whether you should have a planted tank or not, you may be wondering if betta fish like plants. And there are actually a few reasons betta fish LOVE plants.

They Provide Hiding Places

Bettas only feel safe when they have a place to hide. Even though your tank is perfectly safe for them it’s still important to make sure they have this. One of the ways you can do this is by densely planting one side of your tank. This is even more necessary if you’re housing your betta with other fish. However, along with plants, caves also work great.

They Make The Tank Feel More Natural

Secondly, a bettas natural habitat will often be dense with plants on the surface and in the water. In fact, they actually provide relief from the sun and plenty of shade for your betta. So why not imitate this in your tank. The more natural your tank feels the less stressed your betta will feel.

They Keep Your Betta Entertained

And lastly, dense jungles are going to keep your betta entertained. Not only will he find joy just swimming through all the different plants in your tank, but it’s also going to give him lots of places to explore. You’ll help keep the tank feeling fresh for him and as if there are lots of different areas he can go to. Imagine what a tank with no decorations would feel like for him.

(Find out about other toys that can keep your betta entertained!)

Should You Use Live Or Fake Plants?

When looking for plants the first thing you should think about is whether you want to use live plants or fake plants. Believe it or not, both types of plants can be good for your tank. It all really depends on what you’re looking for. In some ways having live plants instead of fake plants will make your tank easier to maintain on the whole. However, fake plants themselves are a lot easier to maintain than live plants (obviously). Here are the pros and cons of each.

Live Plants – Pros And Cons

Live plants are more natural and they make your tank a little more realistic. However, just like fake plants, they’re going to have their pros and cons.


  • During the day they’re going to produce more oxygen as well as absorbing more co2. And while this isn’t as important for your betta who can breathe from the surface, it’s still important. All the bacteria that break ammonia down into nitrates require oxygen to do it. And the more oxygen in the tank, the more efficient they’re going to be at breaking it down.
  • And on the subject of bacteria. Beneficial bacteria can also grow on live plants a lot easier. And obviously, the more beneficial bacteria there is in your tank the quicker ammonia can be broken down.
  • If you’re having algae problems then live plants can also be the solution for that as well. Algae is most often caused by too much nitrate in the tank. With more bacteria in the tank, there’s going to be fewer nitrates for algae to live off. As well as the fact, the plants will use up most of it too!
  • It goes without saying that live plants are going to recreate a betta’s natural environment a lot more than any fake plant ever can. They’re going to make your betta feel more at home.


  • They’re always growing. This is going to require more work on your behalf to make sure they’re not overtaking your tank. While your betta will love swimming through plants, it’s still important to make sure he has room to swim freely. This is particularly important when it comes to floating plants. If they get too out of control, your betta may struggle to get to the surface for air.
  • And of course, live plants, in general, are just going to require more work than fake plants. You’re going to have to learn how to take care of plants and make sure that the water conditions and lighting are suitable for them.
  • They’re going to add more decaying matter into your tank. Just like every plant, eventually, parts of your aquarium plant are going to fall off. If you’re not cleaning regularly then the decay is going to cause bacteria to bloom in your tank. This can be overcome by vacuuming your gravel frequently and removing any plants that look like they’re on their way out.
  • If you are going to keep plants in your tank then some of them will require strong lighting to survive. So you’ll have to pay more attention when considering plants to purchase.
  • And lastly, while real plants are going to create a lot more oxygen in the day, they’re going to use up a lot more at night. If you have too many live plants in your tank you may begin to starve the water of oxygen. You can fix this by adding some air stones into your tank at night.

Fake Plants – Pros And Cons

Next, you’ll find out the pros and cons of fake plants. While they’re not as good in some respects as live plants, they make up for it in a lot of different ways!


  • Obviously, the biggest benefit of fake plants is the fact they require next to no maintenance. Unlike live plants, you’re not going to have to take care of them and make sure they’re getting enough lighting, etc.
  • Fake plants are always going to look nice. Unlike live plants that can become tattered and decay, it’s going to take a MUCH longer time for the same thing to happen to fake plants.
  • Also, fake plants aren’t going to require any specific lighting or water conditions. While you should keep your water conditions steady for your betta, you won’t have to worry about any special requirements for fake plants.
  • And lastly, fake plants are easy to remove and clean. When you notice a build-up of algae and grime, or if it’s time for a routine clean you can just take them out, scrub them, and put them back in. The same can’t be said for live plants.


  • Fake plants can be slightly more dangerous for your betta. Especially plastic ones. If you add plants to your tank that have sharp edges or are too rough, they could cut or graze your betta. And this in turn could make him more susceptible to diseases and illness.
  • They’re going to make your tank feel slightly more unnatural. While your betta isn’t going to mind as much, if you’re a perfectionist you may be better sticking to live plants.
  • Fake plants aren’t going to absorb co2 and release oxygen into your tank. If you want this to happen you’re going to need to make sure your filter is causing enough of a current on the surface, or use an air bubbler.

Which Is Best?

Both of them are going to be good for you depending on your need, and you should pick accordingly. But remember, you don’t just have to stick to one or the other. If you’re not sure why not start off with a mixture of both. And as you become a more proficient betta keeper you can choose which ones you prefer in your tank and which ones you don’t.

Now that you have a better understanding on why you should pick each type of plant, it’s time to know what the best plants for betta fish tanks are! There are so many to choose from! Some of them are real, some fake. Some are submerged while others constantly float on the surface of the tank. Whatever you’re choice they’re all going to bring a lot of life and vibrancy to your tank, and they’re all excellent choices.

Best Submerged Plants For Bettas

There are two main types of live plants that you can put into your tank. Submerged plants and floating plants. Here are the best live plants for bettas that are submerged. They’re relatively easy to take care of and they’re not going to cause any harm to your betta. First up:

Java Fern

Java ferns are plants native to Southeast Asia. They can be grown in and out of the water and if you want to grow more you simply have to split their rhizome and plant it.Java Fern

You should be aware that Java fern can grow quite big. When you let it grow fully it can grow 13 inches high and 6-8 inches wide. Because of this, it’s recommended that you don’t put it in a tank which is 10 gallons or smaller.

Learn more about java fern.

pH & Temp

Java ferns can survive in a pH that’s between 6-7 and they need a temperature between 68-82°F.


Unlike a lot of plants, java fern doesn’t need much lighting. In fact, it’s often better to grow them in the shade of other plants or in low light aquariums. If java fern receives too much light then it’s leaves may start to go translucent.


Instead of planting java fern into the substrate, you should tie it to decorations. Over time, it’s roots will latch on and it won’t need to be tied on anymore. If you plant your java ferns roots, then you’re going to end up suffocating them and they will begin to rot.

Java Moss

Java MossJava moss is one of the best plants for betta fish tanks and with good reason! It can literally survive in any conditions and end up thriving. In fact, people have said they’ve taken java moss out of their tank, let it dry out completely, only for it to start growing again once it returned to their tank!

Java moss is another plant that doesn’t need to have its roots buried, instead, it latches onto rocks, driftwood, and other decorations in your tank.

Java moss is great for carpeting your tank and you can latch it to almost anything.

Here’s all the information you need to know about java moss.

pH & Temp

The ideal temperature for java moss is between 70-75°F, but don’t let this deter you. Because java moss can survive at any temperature up to 86°F

pH wise you don’t even need to worry about java moss it can survive in pH between 5-8, which is an extremely wide range.


Another reason that java moss is great for betta tanks is that it can survive in low light and high-level light. If you let it grow in high lighting then it will be more compact, whereas in low light levels it will be darker and lankier.


Once again you’re not going to need to plant java moss, rather you’re going to need to anchor it to things in your tank and let it latch on. This is incredibly easy to do and your best bet is just tying it with fishing line.


Next up on the list is Hornwort. Hornwort grows all over the world, but you have to be careful with it because it is an invasive species. However, with a little bit of care, it’s going to look fantastic in your tank!hornwort

One thing to note is that hornwort is also going to require a little bit more care. If left, it can grow up to 10 feet in length which is very impressive! If you want to keep hornwort, then you’re going to need a large tank. A 15 gallon tank is a good starting size. The Fluval Flex 15 Gallon is a great choice.

You can also learn more about Hornwort in this article.

pH & Temp

Hornwort can survive in a wide variety of temperatures. In fact, as long as you’re keeping the tank between 59-86°F it’s going to grow just fine.

pH wise it will do well in anywhere between 6 – 7.5, but remember with bettas 7 is ideal.


If you do want to keep hornwort then it’s going to need a high light tank. Light is critical for your hornwort to grow well, and if you add it to a low light tank then it’s going to end up looking weak and pathetic.


If you plan on planting hornwort then you’re going to need to remove a big chunk of the bottom leaves. If you don’t do this then they’re going to fall off on their own and end up making a mess of your substrate.

However, remember you don’t necessarily have to plant hornwort because it can also float freely.


Next up is anacharis/elodea/water weeds. It originally came from certain parts of South America, however, due to its hardiness, you can find it all over America.

Image result for elodeaIf you want to keep anacharis then because of its hardiness it’s incredibly easy to do! Here’s a full article explaining why anacharis is so great!

pH And Temp

The ideal temperature for Anacharis is between 70-78°F. And you may be thinking that the warm end of anacharis is the standard temperature for bettas. Well don’t worry, while the ideal temperature is between 70-78°F it can survive in temperatures between 60-82°F, so you have nothing to worry about!

When you’re keeping anacharis in your tank you are going to have to keep the pH levels as close to neutral as possible. However, if you’re looking after a betta the pH should be as close to neutral as possible anyway!


If you want to keep anacharis then you’re going to need medium light in the tank. Obviously bigger is better for plants, but if there’s too much then you could cause more algae to grow in the tank as well.


When planting anacharis you’re going to have to plant it quite deeply. Each stem should be buried 2 inches deep so it’s roots have plenty of room to start growing. Because of this, you should also plant anacharis plants an inch away from each other. Don’t worry about the gaps because the spacing actually adds to its appeal.


Anubias is another one of the best plants for betta fish tanks because of it’s relative ease to grow. It comes from Africa and it can grow either fully submerged or partially submerged. The most common type of anubias will grow 2-6 inches in height. It’s normally used as a background plant and kept at the bottom of the tank. Anubias

Learn more about Anacharis.

pH & Temp

If you plan on keeping anubias then you need to make sure you keep the water between 72-82°F. This is the ideal temperature to help it grow best. As well as the temperature you also need to make sure that the pH levels are between 6 – 7.5. A bettas parameter needs fall nicely in between this, so it shouldn’t be a problem.


Anubias isn’t going to need particularly strong lighting to survive, standard aquarium lighting will do. However, for the best growth, it’s better to use a stronger light. So if you want it to take longer to grow (less upkeep) then make sure you use a mid-level aquarium light!


And remember, if you plan on adding anubias to the tank you need to make sure you’re not burying the roots. Otherwise, they’re going to start rotting and the plant will quickly die. So, you can either let it float or tie it to something. (In most cases, even if it’s free floating it will still stay at the bottom of the tank.

Amazon Sword

Amazon SwordIf you have a larger tank then Amazon sword is definitely a great plant that you can choose. They are fairly large, growing 20 inches in length and make the perfect background plant, as well as give your betta a lot of places to hide.

Because of the large size Amazon Sword normally grows too, you shouldn’t add it to tanks smaller than 59 gallons.

pH & Temp

Amazon sword is quite hardy when it comes to it’s pH level and it can grow anywhere between a pH level of 6.5 – 7.5. However, some it has been known to survive in a pH level as low as 6!

And if you’re wondering what temperature Amazon sword needs then it’s going to thrive best in temperatures between 72-82°F. If you keep the temperature between this level and the lighting is good then you’re going to grow some beautiful Amazon Sword in your tank!


This is one of the reasons that not as many hobbyists keep Amazon Sword in their tank. If you plan on growing Amazon sword then it’s going to need strong lighting as well as a lot of light throughout the day.

You should have a strong light in the tank and keep it on for 8-12 hours to make sure the plant is getting all the light it needs.


When you’re planting Amazon sword you should plant it deep into the substrate where it will begin spreading its roots throughout the tank. However, make sure you’re not burying the crown underneath your substrate otherwise it will begin to die.

Betta Bulbs

Named after the fish that love them the most, betta bulbs are a great plant to make your tank look fantastic. Betta bulbs are generally a mix of different Aponogeton bulbs that can come from Africa, Asia, and Australasia.Aponogeton

In fact, they’ve been crossbred so much with each other, you normally end up getting a hybrid bulb.

Also, some people recommend only having betta bulbs in your tank for half a year and then storing them for the other half.

Find out more about Betta Bulbs.

pH & Temp

Betta bulbs aren’t going to need any particular care when it comes to their pH and temperature needs. They only need a pH level between 6.5 – 7.5 and a temperature between 72-82°F. Both of which are going to be fine in a betta tank.


Your lighting needs are going to change for betta bulbs depending on the size of your tank. If you have a large tank then strong light will cause betta bulbs to grow rapidly. However, if you have a smaller tank then it may be better to use low lighting. This will limit how quickly betta bulbs grow so you don’t have to maintain them as often.


To plant betta bulbs you should bury the root about 2 inches under the surface of the substrate. This anchors it in place and also allows the roots to start spreading out.


Any plant that you’re going to pick will make your betta happy (as long as there aren’t any sharp parts. However, if you’re still having trouble deciding or taking all the information in, here are the main points.

  • Plants are great for betta tanks because they provide hiding places, make the tank feel more natural, and keep your betta entertained.
  • Live plants produce more oxygen and help remove ammonia, they also harbor beneficial bacteria, reduce algae problems and create a more natural environment.
  • However, they require maintenance, increase decaying matter in your tank, require different lighting, and consume more oxygen at night.
  • Fake plants require no maintenance or specific conditions, and they’re also easy to clean.
  • However, fake plants have a higher risk of hurting your betta, they make the tank feel more unnatural and they’re not going to oxygenate the tank.
  • Java fern is a great plant that needs a 10 gallon tank, pH between 6-7 and not much lighting. Don’t plant java fern, but tie it onto decorations.
  • Java moss is another great choice for any size tank, it can survive in a range of temperatures and pH. As well as this it doesn’t need any specific lighting and will latch onto anything in the tank.
  • Hornwort should be kept in tanks that are 15 gallons or bigger. It needs a temperature between 59-86°F and a pH between 6-7.5. It’s also going to need strong lighting and to be planted in your substrate.
  • Anacharis can also be kept in any tank and in temperatures between 60-82°F and in a pH as close to neutral as possible. It also needs medium light and to be planted deeply into the substrate.
  • Anubias is a great background plant that can be kept in any tank. You should keep the temperature between 72-82°F and a pH between 6 – 7.5. It doesn’t need strong lighting, however, make sure you don’t plant it.
  • If you have a big tank (59 gallons+) then Amazon Sword is a great choice. It’s hardy and can survive in pH levels between 6.5 – 7.5 and temperatures between 72-82°F. However, it does need strong lighting. To plant it, make sure it’s buried deep into the substrate of your tank.
  • And lastly, as you guess by their name, betta bulbs are another great choice for betta tanks. They can survive in small tanks and need conditions similar to bettas. That is a pH between 6.5 – 7.5 and a temperature between 72-82°F. When planting betta bulbs make sure you bury the roots about 2 inches beneath the substrate and remove them from your tank for half the year.

I hope you enjoyed reading this article about the best plants for betta fish tanks! Have a great day and be sure to check out the rest of the website.

Sours: https://www.bettacarefishguide.com/best-plants-for-betta-fish-tank/

You will also like:

Then I can suck your breasts, Sanya innocently inquired, weighing one of Larissa's milkers in his hand. - Of course, Sasha, the woman purred, leaning back on the pillows. -Mike.

4872 4873 4874 4875 4876