Barbell wall rack

Barbell wall rack DEFAULT

TOP NOTCH QUALITY YES4ALL WALL MOUNT BARBELL RACK

Yes4All Weighted Olympic Bar Rack Storage is built tough - The heavy duty steel plate makes it more durable and become one of the strongest steel construction for bar storage. Yes4All Bar Rack Storage is designed flawlessly with laser cut and CNC bending technology application; therefore ensures the precise features and attractive look over the time.

Moreover, with all steel construction, our bar is very durable and will last for a lifetime while can still maintain its new appearance longer with black power finish.

The weight bar rack can hold up to 3 bars and up to 440 lbs for your convenience. Yes4All Olympic weight bar wall rack fits most barbells including long bars, short bars, aluminum training bar and axle bars.

SAVE MORE – GET MORE

Our bar rack is the great choice for your tight-budget home gym. Keeping you bar off the floor helps you save more floor space and get your workout environment neater and cleaner. You can enjoy the benefits of exercise with no worries about rolling bars on the floor or the bar dropping on your feet while you are holding it against the wall.

If you use our bar rack, you can protect your bar sleeves from scratches and wear as we use the Protective UHMW plastic layer on the bar rack storage.

SPECIFICATIONS:

  • Set of two brackets holds three Olympic bars horizontally
  • Material: 7 Gauge Steel
  • Coating: Power Black Finish
  • Protective Uhmw Plastic Layer
  • Height: 16.3 inches
  • Depth: 4 inches from the wall
  • Weight capacity: 440 lbs
  • Designed to install on wood studs or masonry
  • Mounting Hardware Included
Sours: https://yes4all.com/yes4all-horizontal-wall-mounted-olympic-barbell-rack-3-bar-or-6-bar-options-pair.html

Cap Barbell Horizontal Bar Wall Rack




Cap Barbell Horizontal Bar Wall Rack

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Cap Barbell Horizontal Bar Wall Rack

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Cap Barbell Horizontal Bar Wall Rack

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Sours: https://intouchnetworks.com/Fitness-rsqrik-362855/Barbell-Horizontal-Bar-Wall.html
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Space Saving DIY Barbell Rack / Bar Storage

My garage gym has only a single, three-bar gun rack, and I own more than three bars. I’ve been carefully leaning bars against the walls and even leaving some in an unused corner on the floor (rubber floors, don’t worry!) Since I like to keep my gym looking nice and clean, not having a place to put these bars was getting on my nerves, so I decided to make myself my own DIY barbell rack.

Updated January 2018 – just checking for any outdated info or dead links.

DIY Barbell Rack in the Garage Gyms' garage gym

Garage Gyms’ DIY Barbell Rack

If you have the wall space for a gun rack, I strongly suggest just buying one. It’s obviously much simpler than building your own DIY barbell rack. Like I said, I have one already but it only holds three bars (below). I can’t really upgrade mine to a six bar holder because of where it is installed, and I don’t have any other convenient places on my wall wide enough to put a second gun rack. I needed a different solution.

My current gun rack situation - no room for 6 bar holder

With my gun rack above my dumbbell rack, I’d never be able to reach bars any higher, so a 6-bar gun rack is out of the question. It’s already not great grabbing for that top bar, and I’m taller than you!

I also didn’t really want one of those 9-bar vertical bar storage boxes that most equipment dealers sell. I just don’t like the idea of dropping nice bars into those metal sleeves. Some brands have a lined sleeve, which is better, and that does help reduce damage to the bar, but I also didn’t want to commit any floor space to storing bars. I simply wanted the bars as out of the way as possible, and that’s why I went with this kind of DIY bar rack.

Full disclosure, this isn’t an entirely original idea. I saw a picture of a DIY barbell rack some time ago that was more-or-less the same kind of rack. Unfortunately I didn’t save that link or picture, but it didn’t seem overly complicated so I just winged it and it turned out great. The really cool thing about a rack like this is that it isn’t load bearing (the bars are resting on the ground) so it can be built to hold any amount of bars.


DIY Barbell Rack Hardware

I went with cabinet-grade pine because it looked nice and wasn’t overly expensive. It also comes in 3″ and 4″ wide pieces which was perfect for this. You can use any wood you want though since it’s not a load bearing rack. Also because it’s not load bearing, you can mount the rack to the wall using wood screws; you don’t need to go crazy with wedge anchors or giant lag screws or anything like that.

You’ll need one mending plate and two screws per PVC cup. Make sure that your mending plates are countersunk, and that you buy the proper flat head screws that will sit flush with the plate. The mending plate packaging suggested ¾” #6 screws, but I went with 1″ #6 for a more secure hold.

  • 1″ x 3″ x ?’ Select Pine Board ($6)
  • 1″ x 4″ x ?’ Select Pine Board ($10)
  • 2″ PVC Conduit ($5 for a 10′ piece)
  • 2″ Zinc Countersunk Mending Plates ($0.75 per plate)
  • #6 – 1″ Flat Head Philips Screws [2 screws per PVC holder] ($2 per 12 pack)
  • 3″ wood screws for mounting top portion of rack to the wall (I already had these on-hand)
Hardware for attaching the PVC cups to the board

A shot of one of my PVC cups, the 1″ #6 screws, and 2″ zinc countersunk mending plate.


Tools I Used

  • Drill (used various bits for pilot holes, and also a 1″ and 54 mm bit for base)
  • Powered handsaw (I used this to cut the PVC; not recommended!)
  • Jigsaw for cutting stall mat for base. Utility knife works too
  • Tape Measure
  • Level
  • Screwdriver
  • Electrical tape
  • Construction adhesive/Liquid Nails
  • Safety goggles!
  • Pen, marker, whatever

The Pipes and the Rack

I cut the 2″ PVC pipe into 2½” long pieces. That makes them as tall as the 3″ piece of pine (as a reminder, 1″ x 3″ board is actually ¾” x 2½”, which is why I cut the PVC to 2½”). I cut out the mouth of my first PVC piece by guessing how big I wanted the opening to be. I got lucky, it worked well; small enough that it held the bar, but wide enough that it doesn’t take three guys to pull it back out.

I used that first cut piece as the template for all of the others so that there was consistency. I also sanded down the pieces when I was done, and gave the mouth a rounded edge since the bar needs to slip in and out of this gap. I doubt PVC can scratch a bar, but why risk it; it only took 10 minutes to sand the whole lot of them.

My DIY Bar Rack cups, cut from PVC conduit in 2.5" strips

I used the same template for each piece so that they would all be uniform. I also took the rough edges off with some sandpaper after I cut them. I made more cups than I needed as back-ups.

I’m not sure I want to recommend cutting the pipe using the method I used, as I’m certain that it’s not the safest option out there (I used the electric handsaw for this – like a smaller sawsall.) If you have access to more/better tools than I do, cut it however you see fit. They are small pieces to cut with power tools, so whatever you do, be safe.

As you saw in the first picture, my bar holder can hold seven bars. Each cup is mounted 4″ apart which leaves a tad less than 2″ between each cup. I left extra space on both sides of the center holder because I knew that would be a permanent location for my Swiss Bar. You can place each holder closer, further, or whatever you choose. If you want to include space for specialty bars, I suggest laying them on the ground as if they were on the rack and then measuring the distances between the center of one bar to the next.

Let’s say you wanted to do a 6-bar holder; only for Olympic bars. Leave 3″ before you mark the board for your first holder. Then mark every 4″ until you’ve marked all six spots, add 3″ after the last mark then chop the rest of the board off. In this scenario, your board would be 26″ long.

Note: If you do have bars other than standard Olympic bars, or a mix of men’s and women’s bars, watch the length (or height, in this case) because they are not all the same. If you notice on my rack, I had to place the rack at a height that allowed for the cups to grab all of the bars, even the shorter Swiss Bar.

After you mark the board, figure out exactly where you’d actually hang it. You want to find at least two studs, and you want to make sure that those two studs aren’t lined up with any of your marks for the holders on the board. Once you found the spot and the height, level it, mark it, and drill pilot holes into the board and into the studs, but don’t actually hang it yet.

Attaching the PVC holders to the wood

After I found my marks for mounting, I taped each piece of pipe onto the board exactly where I wanted them using electrical tape. Electrical tape has some play that allows you to re-position easily, and removes easily.

Once I knew where the board was going to go on the wall, I numbered each PVC cup and then placed all the PVC cups onto the board using electrical tape. This allowed me to get each cup on straight and centered without drilling any holes. Once everything was to my liking, I placed and visually centered the mending plates into the cup (above image) and then drilled pilot holes through the tape, pipe, and board. I then took each cup off the board, then set them aside sitting in the same position as they would go back on the board.

If your pilot holes for the mounting screws wouldn’t be covered up by the cups, you could technically attach the cups before mounting to the wall if you wanted to. My mounting screws were going to be hidden behind the cups if I installed them first, so I needed to mount the board before putting on the cups. Either way, that’s pretty much it. Once you get the board up, drop in the mending plates and start threading the #6 screws into the pipe, and then screw each piece into the board placing each cup where you initially had it.

You should definitely hand-tighten these screws rather than power drilling them in. If you strip out these holes, you’ll not be pleased!

Close up of my DIY barbell rack

Closer look of the PVC cups once mounted to the board. Not that complicated really.

I was getting a very small amount of rattling when I slammed the garage door (this rack is mounted on the same wall), and I not only didn’t want to listen to that, but I also didn’t want the bars hitting that zinc plate. I added a 3″ strip of rubber foam weatherseal self-stick tape to the inside of each cup. The bars fit perfectly, and there is not even a hint of noise. I also no longer need to worry about scratching the bars on that mending plate. Easy!

Rubber foam weatherseal self-stick tape to prevent the bar from rattling

3″ strip of Rubber Foam Weatherseal self-sticking tape stops any rattling and risk of the bar scratching against the mending plate. Kind of ugly, but you can’t see it when the bar is in there anyway.


The Base

Base piece for the DIY barbell rack

The rubber-lined base plate of my DIY barbell rack.

This piece is pretty simple. It’s the exact same length as the top board, only it’s 4″ wide instead of 3″. There is exactly 1″ distance between the wall and where the actual bar sits in the top section of the rack, so I left exactly 1″ of distance between the wall and where the bar sits in the base. This way, the bar is standing straight up and down, and not leaning in any direction and putting any strain on the cups.

I used a 54 mm drill bit to put the holes in the base, and since this base board is the same length as the top board, all the marks went in the same place. Again, these holes are not centered along the width; they are exactly 1″ away from the edge of the board (the wall) which makes the holes closer to the front.

Since I didn’t want bars resting on concrete, I cut up a spare stall mat to be the same size as the board and attached it under the board. I used construction adhesive to hold the pieces together, and then for good measure I countersunk a couple of wood screws with 1/8″ – 1″ washers into the underside of the mat and into the wood. I used a 1″ drill bit on the mat for the countersinking.

You can attach the base either to the floor, or the wall. I just used liquid nails, but it can be anchored with concrete anchors, or nailed into the wall much like a baseboard. Your call. Do make sure you have the base centered with the top of the rack though, otherwise your bars will be leaning, and if you have OCD like me, you’ll see that every time you look at the rack.


End?

My DIY guides probably leave much to be desired, and no doubt I’ve left something out. So my disclaimer… plan it out, think it through, wear safety goggles, and measure twice. This is a simple project, but if you don’t take your time, you’re bound to screw something up, and no one likes to start over. I still suggest a gun rack if you have the space for it though.

If you have any questions, leave it in the comments; I try to answer all comments that include questions. Good luck!


 

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Sours: https://www.garage-gyms.com/diy-barbell-rack-bar-storage/

Last updated on September 27th, 2021 at 05:16 pm

Too much gear and not enough space. It’s the age-old dilemma faced by most home gym owners. For some gear, it doesn’t matter how you store it. For your barbell, that’s not the case. Improper bar storage can damage your prized barbell, so it’s important to follow a few basic guidelines.

Proper barbell storage guidelines:

barbell storage

What’s the best way to store your barbells? Up off the ground, unloaded, and horizontal is best. Vertical storage is a possibility with some caveats, but not ideal. Propped up in a corner or laying on the ground isn’t a good idea at all.

Horizontal storage is best

If you only have one bar (and let’s be honest, most home gym owners only need one bar), store your bar unloaded on the J-hooks of your rack and call it a day. You don’t need any special storage solutions at all.

If you have more than one bar, or you don’t have the room to leave your bar stored in your rack, you’ll need another solution. The most ideal of these is horizontal storage.

Why horizontal is best

Inside the sleeves of your barbell are bushings, bearings, or both. Those anti-friction devices are there to allow your bar sleeves to spin freely. They are also designed to support heavy loads in the form of weight plates loaded on the bar while the bar is horizontal. They can take a ton (probably literally!) of abuse in this way.

barbell bushing

These same little devices are not, however, designed to support much load with the bar in a vertical position. This is not what they are engineered for. 

Bushings are more durable than bearings, but neither one is designed to bear a lot of load vertically. Bearings can even break apart and fail completely if too much force is applied in this direction. This can easily happen if a bar is dropped carelessly into a vertical bar storage solution.

There is also the matter of lubrication. When stored horizontally, the lubrication around your bushings and inside your bearings will stay put. If the bar is turned vertically, this may not be the case.

In all honesty, the lubrication issue isn’t one that should keep you from storing your bar vertically. Most bearings are sealed to keep debris out and lubrication in. This is regardless of the angle of storage. For bushings, there is so little lubrication in the first place, it most likely won’t all come off.

Worst case, you might have to relubricate your sleeves after a long period of storage. The real issue is the force applied to the sleeves when stored vertically. That should be avoided if possible.

If you want to never have to think about either of these concerns, store your bar horizontally.

See below for guidelines on what to do if you must store your bar vertically (a situation many of you will undoubtedly face). Also, be sure to note the things not to do regardless of your bar’s storage orientation.

But again, if you can, storing your bar horizontally will be the best option for the care and preservation of your barbell.

Horizontal storage options

There are several good horizontal storage solutions. Some are quite expensive like the gun rack style storage sold by Rogue fitness. When purchased complete with plastic UHMW inserts (and I’m not sure why anyone would buy this product without them!), you are looking at almost $100 just to hold your bar(s) on the wall. Of course, considering Rogue’s reputation for overpricing their gear, this isn’t surprising.

You can buy an equally good product, complete with UHMW inserts, from Rep Fitness for around $60 (check it out here)! It only holds 3 bars to Rogue’s 6, but 95% of home gym owners won’t need those extra 3 slots.

For me, I chose an even less expensive option. I went to my local Home Depot and bought plastic coated “Tornado Hooks”. These come complete with mounting hardware (something the above-mentioned options make you purchase separately) and are much nicer to your wallet.

tornado hooks

You can buy 6 packs of these here on Amazon for a fraction of the price of a gun rack style rack. A 6 pack will allow you to mount 3 bars horizontally on your wall. And as you can see, they look great too!

One other nice feature of this style of hook is that it can be used to mount all kinds of bars and other accessories that a gun rack style rack can’t. You get to choose the spacing and location of each hook, a very nice and versatile option!

In the end, whether it’s on a gun rack, individual hooks, or another solution you may come up with, storing your bar horizontally is the best option.

Vertical storage

I hear a lot of you out there right now protesting that you simply don’t have room for horizontal storage. In the tight spaces you’ve carved your home gyms from, you barely have room to store your bar(s) at all.

For this reason, most major manufacturers have made vertical storage options. There are several flavors, but in the end, there is only one I would consider.

This option is basically a set of tubes (usually 9) that sit on the ground. You insert the end of your bars into the tubes and they are held upright at a 90-degree angle to the floor.

The best of these, in my opinion, is the Rep Fitness 9 bar holder. It has two features not found on other similar options that are critical.

Rep Fitness 9 Bar Holder

First, the tubes are long enough to safely support your bar without risk of bending it. On many less expensive options, the tubes are so short that if you aren’t careful, you risk damaging the sleeve of your bar.

Second, the tubes are sleeved with UHMW plastic inserts. This avoids metal on metal contact and will keep your bar sleeves free from scratches. Even the popular option from Rogue doesn’t offer this feature.

While I personally have opted for horizontal bar storage, if I was to go vertical, the 9 bar holder from Rep is the only option I would consider in that style. You can see a full description and pricing here.

Regardless of which brand you go with, I would add one modification. Take some high-density foam and drop or stuff it in each tube. One of the risks of vertical storage comes from the force created when dropping your bar into the tube.

First of all, don’t do this. Place the bar in this type of storage gently.

It’s still a good idea to put some foam in there just in case. That will help to absorb any shock. The bearings or bushings in your bar will not stand up to a lot of force applied in this direction and it’s these parts that are most likely to fail due to vertical storage.

If you can’t go horizontal, vertical is a viable option if some care is taken.

Regardless of which you choose, though, there are several things we should never do when storing our bars.

What not to do

Never store your bar with weight on it. Your bar will easily handle the temporary force applied to it (assuming you bought a decent bar) over the course of a workout. Even the best bars will bend if stored with weight on them for a long period of time.

Bar with plate

It won’t happen right away, but it will happen at some point. It’s best not to take a chance.

Virtually every barbell manufacturer out there strongly recommends unloading your bar when not in use.

Don’t leave your bar propped up in a corner or against a wall. If you are going to store your bar vertically (not ideal, but still considered okay in most cases), then use a device that keeps the bar 90 degrees vertical to the ground.

This storage angle will minimize the force applied to the bearings or bushings in the bar sleeve. Leaning the bar against something puts the sleeves at an angle. This angle, combined with the weight of the bar, can damage your bushings or bearings over time.

Don’t leave your bar on the ground. This leaves your bar close to any dirt or dust that may be present in the room. It also leaves your bar in the most humid air of the room, the air at floor level. 

Dirt and dust in the bar sleeves will cause problems. Humidity can cause premature bar corrosion. Both of these are problems easily avoided by getting your bar up off the ground.

Don’t store your bar on anything that provides metal on metal contact. Make sure that any horizontal or vertical storage solution you choose has protective materials in place to avoid any metal on metal contact.

Metal on metal contact is the fastest way to scratch your bar finish. The bar finish is what protects your bar from corrosion. Scratching that finish isn’t good for keeping your bar looking nice over its lifetime. It’s terrible for preventing your bar from corroding.

Conclusion

We spend a decent amount of money on our bars (at least we should, see why here). They are what connect us to the weight we are moving. They should be one of our favorite pieces of gear and they should last us a lifetime.

We can help to ensure this by properly caring for (see my complete guide to barbell care and maintenance here – article coming soon) and properly storing our bars. These simple considerations will help to ensure your favorite piece of home gym gear lasts as long as you want it to and stays in an incredible condition that entire time!

Related questions:

Are there any free storage options?

Yes! If you don’t want to spend any money on this aspect of your gym, you have two options. The first is to store your bar in your rack on the j-hooks. Just make sure it is unloaded.

The second is to place 2-3 weight plates on the ground, stacked and centered on each other. Then place the end of the barbell (gently) into the hole in the middle of the plates. This impromptu vertical storage solution works great and doesn’t cost a thing!

Will the lubrication come out of my bearings or bushings if I store my bar vertically?

Probably not. If you store your bar that way without use for months or years at a time, you might have a problem. If not, you are most likely going to be okay here.

How about long term storage?

If you are going to store your bars for a long period of time, it should always be horizontally. Make sure they are clean and free from dirt and debris as well. As an added layer of protection, wipe a thin layer of Bar Shield or 3 in 1 oil across your entire bar to keep corrosion at bay.

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Sours: https://gymcrafter.com/proper-barbell-storage/

Wall rack barbell

Why should I be in the mood. - This is probably due to a possible pregnancy. - Not.

BARBELL STORAGE RACK / GUN RACK Titan Fitness - Home Gym Wall Storage Holder Rep Fitness Rogue

Fucking a girl in the ass after another had finished there. My tower was really blown off. Less than a minute and I began to pour my share of sperm into this finished ass. Denis stuck the fading penis into Irinka's mouth and she tried to lick it as best she could.

Now discussing:

Finally, her features changed a couple more times, displaying something like vindictiveness and another expression that the poor guy could not decipher. - So, so, she said, lifting her head. Her gaze hardened again. Tomorrow you will come up to him again and say that, in principle, nothing is impossible. - Hello.



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