45rfe solenoid pack rebuild

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45RFE Rebuild Kit 545RFE 65RFE Automatic Transmission Overhaul Banner Box Set Dodge Chrysler Jeep

Product Details

Rebuild overhual kit for the 45rfe, 545rfe, and 65rfe automatic transmissions.

Fits: Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Mitsubishi, RAM

45rfe, 545rfe, 5-45rfe, 65rfe transmission

1999-2018 4, 5, and 6 speed automatic

This transmission rebuild kit comes with the following rebuild parts:

  • Full Transtec overhaul gasket set
  • BorgWarner friction clutch plates
  • Internal fluid filter
  • External fluid filter

The Transtec gasket set contained within this package will include all paper gaskets, rubber seals, O-rings, metal clad seals, and sealing rings for the entire transmission.

Additionally, you can add the following upgrades to this box kit:

  • Raybestos steel plates - (*Pictured)
  • Molded rubber pistons
  • Transgo shift kit
  • Torrington bearing kit
  • Full bushing set - (*Pictured)
  • Solenoid pack
  • Torque converter
  • ATSG rebuild manual
  • Assembly Grease - Lubegard, Life Smart Blend, or Transjel
  • Platinum Lubegard - Insider tip: Many shops use this synthetic supplement in every freshly rebuilt transmission to keep them on the road past the warranty.

Remember to soak all of your clutches in transmission fluid for thirty minutes before you install them.

This rebuild box kit fits the following applications:


  • Aspen 4.7L, 5.7L 2007-20012


  • Dakota 3.7L, 4.7L 2000-2012
  • Durango 3.7L, 4.7L 2000-2012
  • Ram 1500 3.7, 4.7L, 5.7L 2005-2018
  • Ram 2500 5.7L 2004-2011
  • Ram 3500 5.7L 2004-2007



  • Cherokee 3.6L, 3.7L 2002-2014
  • Commander 4.7L, 5.7L 2006-2012
  • Grand Cherokee 4.7L 1999-2012
  • Liberty 2.4L, 3.7L, 2002
  • Liberty 2.8L turbo diesel 2003-2007
  • Wrangler 2.8L 2006-2016


This transmission master rebuild kit fits the following years: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018..

Sours: https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/


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New 68RFE Solenoid Pack (Grey)

New 68RFE OEM Solenoid Pack 

Grey solenoids packs came on all the 2011-2018 68RFE transmissions & will only fit these specific year models.

The Valve Body:

The valve body is like the brain of the transmission. It is the single most important item in the transmission. Here at SunCoast, we take a very scientific approach to how we calibrate these units. We start with addressing the accumulator cover plate. It has been shown time and time again that these factory side plates are prone to deflection due to the fact they are made with inferior steel, and a bit thinner than desired. If you start driving line pressure even higher, you will see this issue with deflection become even more prevalent. When this deflection occurs, it often times will cause the screws to loosen, and in some instances even break. SunCoast replaces the factory plate with a thicker, reinforced plate that adds 3 additional holes to allow for additional, stronger mounting screws to keep flex to a minimum. This new accumulator cover plate is standard on all SunCoast 68RFE builds. 

SunCoast continues the improvements on the valve body circuit by replacing each solenoid pack with a brand new factory OE Mopar solenoid pack. This may be incredibly expensive, but we feel it is an absolute must. While the reasons may be obvious to some, allow me to explain it to you. Every other builder either uses the factory solenoid pack again, or a remanufactured one. Here at SunCoast, this is unacceptable and here is why: It is well documented that the solenoid pack has numerous fail issues. If you have a core that you are building from, more than likely it is there as a core because it failed. When failure occurs, debris, in the way of metals, clutch material, and other contaminants are circulated throughout the transmission. That debris is almost certain to have made its way into the solenoids. This contamination in the solenoids now remains there. So now we take this new, freshly built transmission and introduce the contaminants from the failure into our new unit. Those contaminants can, and will, affect the spray pattern and flow of these solenoids. In the early days, we took the liberty of purchasing a solenoid flow tester to verify the integrity of these solenoids. What we found is that the failure rate was in excess of 60% due to contaminants. Of that 60%, about 10% could be run through the flow tester with a special solvent to clean them enough to restore the spray pattern and flow rate. Our competition may make the argument that they spent the $10,000 + to check and verify these solenoids and clean them, but the only issue with this is that you are still going to have a significant failure rate. SunCoast, as well as Chrysler, has documented that the factory boards on these solenoid packs flex, causing false pressure switch codes. So even if you spent the 5+ hours to restore the flow rate and spray pattern you still have a fatigued board. This could very well cause false codes and drivability issues. SunCoast corrects this by throwing the factory solenoid pack in the trash and replacing it with a new factory unit from Mopar. SunCoast also installs a custom made solenoid spacer-block to correct the flexing issue. Some may tell you that this is overkill, and uneccassary, but we believe it is our duty to ensure that our customers get exactly what they deserve. No corners cut, no shortcuts taken.

Another area of concern in the factory valve body is the issue with the factory solenoid switch valve. These factory pieces allow cross-leaking and continually cause burnt 4C and Overdrive clutches. Very often, it causes the plugs to cock and hang up in the bore. This will result in a failsafe (limp mode), various codes, bind-ups, and burnt TCC clutches. Customers will often complain of the engine stalling, or loss of fuel economy, due to no lock-up. On every one of our SunCoast valve bodies we correct this by replacing the factory solenoid switch valve with a new, custom designed valve made with annular grooves to help center the valve and plugs in the bore to prevent future side-load wear. This special valve is also hard-coat anodized to prevent premature wear. We also have special o-ringed end bore plugs that have been redesigned to ensure cocking can no longer occur. Finally, the next problematic area we correct is the issue with the factory Overdrive/Underdrive accumulator piston. You will see others attempting to shim these accumulators, trying to correct stroke issues, and they use recalibrated springs to correct the cold driving 1-2 shudder, excessive CVI's, slide shift, etc. The fact that it is plastic doesn't help either. There are companies even making sleeves to try and attempt to fix the bore cross leaking. Our fix is to redesign it. SunCoast uses a custom billet accumulator piston with additional sealing rings, made in-house. This new custom billet overdrive/underdrive piston not only corrects cross-leaking, but it also changes the stroke of the accumulator, allowing much quicker shifts than could be achieved otherwise. This also extends the life of the overdrive/underdrive clutches. Is a billet, custom cnc'd accumulator piston really needed? Well if youre SunCoast, the answer is obvious and it is in every one of our valve bodies. What does your builder do?

Sours: https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-30498005-new-68rfe-solenoid-pack-grey.html

Introduction: Dodge (5)45RFE Solenoid Pack Replacement

Had a code P0750 throw my check engine light for me, so since I needed to replace a solenoid and this is a pretty common dodge transmission, I thought I might put this up here so maybe someone else can benefit from my experience. Job was pretty simple. Took about 2 hours start to finish. Unlike some transmissions, the solenoids are not individually serviceable and require removing the valve body. The solenoid assembly sits on top of the valve body. You'll need to get a new pan gasket and I recommend replacing both oil filters in the transmission while you have it apart.

Tools Needed:

1/4" or 3/8" ratchet

~6" extension for ratchet

8mm socket

10mm socket

T-20 torx driver

Putty knife

Drain pan

Oil filter wrench

Solvent (soapy water, brake cleaner, etc)

medium to course grit abrasive pad

Step 1: Draining the Trans Fluid

These transmissions do not have drain plugs on the pans, so the only way to drain them is to remove the pan. This tends to make a little bit of a mess, so have your drain pan and some towels ready.

I like to remove all of the bolts down the sides of the pan, then remove all but the center bot on the front and rear. Once you're down to the two bolts, loosen the rear one to about 3/4 out, then loosen the front to the same. While holding the rear of the pan, remove the rear bolt and use a putty knife to get between the pan and the transmission housing. Lower the rear of the pan and let it pour out into the drain pan until it slows. When the trans fluid slows enough that it's almost stopped, hold the pan against the trans with one hand while removing the front bolt with the other. Lower the pan, empty it int the drain pan and set it aside.

Step 2: The Valve Body

OK.. so now you're looking up into the trans and you see the valve body. First we need to remove the black plastic filter housing. there is a single T-20 Torx bolt holding it on. Remove the bolt, set it aside and wiggle the filter off.

On the top side is a 20-way connector which needs to be undone. Release the red safety tab (slide downward), press the black release tab at the top of the connector and release the white locking bar. It might take a little wiggle, but the connector should come right off.

With the connector off, there are six bolts holding the valve body up. I circled their locations in red in the picture. Remove them. Once they're all out, it may take a little wiggling, but the valve body will drop out.

Step 3: The Solenoid Pack

The solenoid pack is held on by the bolts located in side the red box. take them all out and the solenoid pack will practically fall off of the valve body.

Step 4: Bolting Up the New Solenoids

After the new solenoid pack is in place and lined up, start the bolts and run them all down to about finger tight. There are arrows embossed into the valve body. These bolts MUST be torqued first. Torque all bolts to 50 in/lbs.

Step 5: Reinstall Valve Body

Lubricate the seal on around the connector with petroleum jelly. Position, align and reinstall the valve body into the transmission. Seat the valve body and install a bolt or two to hold it. Put the other bolts in and evenly and alternately torque them to 105 in/lbs.

Step 6: Buttoning Up the Job

Now is a good time to replace the filters. There are two in this transmission. one is the standard plastic filter which attaches to the valve body (the one we removed in the first couple steps. The other looks like an engine oil filter and screws on. Go ahead and replace these and meet me at the next paragraph.

OK. Filters are done. Remove the old pan gasket from the pan and clean the gasket surface with an abrasive pad and a mild detergent or brake cleaner. Take some warm soapy water or brake cleaner and rinse the inside of the transmission pan. Let the pan dry completely before reinstalling.

After cleaning the pan surface and giving the mating surface on the transmission a once over to remove an dirt and oil, position, align and install the transmission pan. Once all of the bolts are installed to finger tight, evenly torque the bolts to 105 in/lbs in an alternating pattern.

Reconnect the 20-way connector, fill the trans with about 5 quarts of ATF+4 and take it for a ride. Hopefully it all worked out for you.


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Sours: https://www.instructables.com/Dodge-545RFE-Solenoid-Pack-Replacement/

Pack rebuild solenoid 45rfe

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Chrysler RFE Transmission Family: Part 2 Solenoid \u0026 Valve Body Components

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