BLTouch Mount for Ender3 V2– Link here (Use the two screws provided by BLTouch to screw it in.)
The very first thing you should to is go into Control > Advanced and adjust Probe Offset X to -42 & Probe Y Offset -10 (Printed Mount). and Control > Store Setting.
If you are using Creality official BL-Touch set, you have to set it to Probe X Offset -44 & Probe Y Offset -6.
|Mount||Probe X Offset||Probe Y Offset|
|Custom Mount V3||-42||-10|
|Creality Official Mount||-44||-6|
Video Guide by CHEP : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TroPjdkSEOY (Video guide doesn’t include manual leveling, do make sure you do manual bed leveling after adjust the z offset)
Unless your system is well tuned, please use the firmware above instead of high speed. Slow Probe & 5 x 5, which is great for first time tuning.
[8th April] As for Smith3D firmware, we have depreciated our firmware & move on to Jyer firmware as it offer much better features & functionality.
For BTT Filament Sensor & Standard Filament sensor, do enable them
inside Control > Advanced > Filament Sensor/Runout Distance
If you have never change your motherboard, it’s 4.2.2 by default
For 4.2.2 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For 4.2.7 Board 5×5 (High Speed) – download here
For more info regarding this release
For people who’s suffering random probe fails, please refer to the FAQ below for z switch port firmware.
If flashed & auto leveling doesn’t work, please reset configuration (Control > Restore Default) or try to flash again with different filename. If you are getting Black screen, do format your MicroSD Card to FAT32 and rename the firmware & try again.
Older Build (V1.2.2)
If you are facing issue on newer builds, you may try the older build
What’s BL Touch High Speed Mode?
- The high speed mode probes multiple points without stowing the needle, making it much much faster. But also prone to crashes if your bed is severely slanted. Please make good use of Manual leveling before you try this.
For Ender 3 V2 no bootloader installation is required. Copy the firmware into your SD card and then slot it in, the printer will begin flashing once you reboot it. Do remember that you need a different filename each time you flash a new firmware eg. firmware1.1bin > firmware1.2bin, else the system will ignore it.
For user who would prefer official firmware from Creality, you may check this guide here
Some UI customizations the community has added
Some other features were offered compared to Stock firmware
- Turn on and off display during printing
- PID Autotune Menu
- Change Filament menu
- Adjust probe offset, filament sensor in the menu
- __h__m Time Format Setting
And remember to add “M420 S1” in Cura!
You can also add G29 for Bed Leveling before every prints
Instead of adding the command above. You can replace it with (Place it after G28). basically starts a new round of auto bed leveling , good for users who would prefer a fresh bed leveling before every prints.
Nozzle Crashing Into Bed?
Steps to produce a good leveling
- Once you setup the Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y, Store Setting and go to Prepare > Auto Home. Make sure your probe is directly at the center of the bed.
- Start with Manual leveling to make sure the bed is leveled as much as you can, by manually adjusting bed spring. This is to reduce the amount of Z compensation ABL will need to apply when printing. Please refer to CHEP’s guide for how you can level your bed with a piece of paper. The firmware has included the buttons needed for printer to go to all 4 corners + center so you don’t have to do it via a gcode print file.
- After the bed is leveled, get a good Z-offset by using the Prepare > Z-Offset. Remember to pre-heat your nozzle while using this as any remaining material stuck on nozzle tip might interfere the result while gauging with A4 paper. This tool will Auto home and then move Z to 0 to show actual Z offset. Prepare a paper to put between nozzle and bed, then try sliding it in and out, Microstep Up/Down & adjust Z offset until you feel a little friction between paper and nozzle. Use Home Z-Axis to double confirm if the z offset is the right one.
- Once you got your Z offset, go to main menu and press “Leveling”. It will probe 5×5 points and save the mesh to your printer.
- Done and start printing!
- Again, it’s very important to heat up nozzle to 180-200 while using Z-offset (if there is PLA in nozzle) Else the Z-offset will vary a lot depending on the leftover material stuck on nozzle tip.
What if you are not getting an accurate Z Offset from the Tool? (Live Adjust Z Offset)
Sometimes moving the Z axis up and down bit by bit might cause a little slippages, which makes the Z-Offset gauging with A4 paper inaccurate.
If you want a better gauging result. We recommend user to adjust Z Offset via Tune during printing
Z-axis won’t budge
Pay attention to the wiring color, some wires are inverted. If you are using 3rd party wiring, most probably the last two orange and yellow are inverted. You have to manually revert it back using a tweezer.
Black Screen of Death after flashed
Please follow this reddit link for full guide on how to do a proper flash
– Use newly formated sd card, with only bin file
– Rename bin file
– Unplug & reconnect power cord
Bltouch probe not centered / change probe offset
adjust Control > Advanced > Probe Offset X & Probe Offset Y
Manual Leveled & still printing in mid air or nozzle hitting the bed
Use slow probe 5×5 firmware to see if the situation is improving, if not check if your M420/G29 is added inside the start of gcode. Use either G29 or M420. Remember to save setting after leveled.
Sometimes Probe doesn’t finish during leveling
Some users has issue with the bltouch port. the trigger signal or ground is not attached properly. Connect the two pin to the z switch stop & flash the firmware below.
Download 2.0.x.17 ZSwitchStop 5×5 Fast Smith3d Marlin Firmware
Try connect via Pronterface and check what’s the error code returned.
Summary (this reddit link explained in detail)
– Make sure bed not totally out of level, probe may out of reach or nozzle hit the bed first
– Check if your bed is badly warped
– Check if your bltouch pin is bent
– Check the XY axis wheel tension
– Check the Z axis for binding
There is a resistor fix for this, you can solder a resistor and use the bltouch port.
Setting is not saved
Remember to click “Control > Store Setting” everytime you setup completed. Check if eeprom is deleted in SD Card.
Power Lose Recovery doesn’t work
Power Lose Recovery only works when it reached certain layer. check your SD card if there is a PLR file exist. PLR determine if to display the Resume Printing message.
Motor making noises and freeze during print.
This will happen if you just flashed the firmware & does not reset the configuration. Just turn off and on your printer will do, restore default setting. Another possible issue is the dupont connectors on the motherboard loosen, do hot glue the connectors in place or upgrade it to 5 pin JST connector.
Sometimes UI/ print progress bar does not reflect to the latest
Known marlin bug. Restart, press back, will do.
Can I use 3DTouch or BLTouch older than v3.1?
May not compatible, this firmware is optimized for BLTouch v3.1.
Where can I get the source code? How to compile?
Github Repository is here.
If you are having issue compiling your own marlin, remember to set in platform.ini
What happens If I don’t want a BLTouch anymore?
You may revert your firmware to the official non-BLTouch firmware downloadable via this link – https://www.creality.com/download/32
In this guide, I am installing a BLTouch sensor on this Ender 3 using the stock Creality mainboard and Marlin 2.0 firmware.
Hello, my name is Daniel, welcome to the CrossLink channel. Our mission is to help 1 million people getting more successful with 3d printing and if you're here for the first time, subscribe and enable bell notifications so you don't miss anything.
Ok, first of all, let's ask ourselves the question, why would the Ender 3, an Ender 5 or CR10 need a BLTouch sensor - at all?
Honestly, for 90% of you, it's not a must have feature. This Ender 3 works awesome since over 16 months, printing hundreds and hundreds of hours without ANY bed adhesion issues.
So why do I still install a BLTouch? Well, I intend to switch around the bed surfaces a bit. Trying out different print surfaces like the original Creality coated glass surface, metal sheets, magnetic surfaces and more stuff.
So I am not eager to do a new bed leveling all the time when I switch out the build surface. That's where I am hoping that the BLTouch will help me to be more efficient and still get consistent results.
As every time, all the links to documentation, files and the parts that i'm using are in the description of this video.
A few words before you start because I think this is a common mistake that people make when they implement any kind of bed leveling sensor. Make sure that your printer bed is actually leveled correctly in the corners. So really take your time, level the corners so they are equally distanced from the nozzle and then start implementing auto bed leveling. Your print results will be much better and doing the fine tuning with auto bed leveling will be much easier if you do this upfront.
So let's talk about the prerequisites for this modification.
You will need a PIN27 adapter that I've shown already in another video. So make sure this in place. I've also linked this in the description.
You will also need to have your PC ready to compile Marlin firmware. I'm using a fresh copy of Marlin 188.8.131.52 and the 2.0.5 configuration files for the Ender 3.
So in case you never did this before, make sure, you check out the other videos about Marlin 2.0 on my channel.
The other thing you will need is a mounting bracket for the sensor on your printer. And there is a lot of different mounts available depending if you have a rather unmodified printer or a heavily modified one like this one.
I've linked several different mounts for different scenarios in the description of this video.
To mount the BLTouch to MY Ender 3, I had to remix an existing mount.
So, I've swapped out the old version with the new version.
here at the side of the fan duct you can see, there is a new place to mount the bltouch holder with two m4 screws.
Quick tip, if you find that your screws don't fit in on the first try, heat up the part a little bit with a heat gun and then pre-tap the screw holes.
The BLTouch on the other hand gets mounted to this holder using two m3 screws and nuts.
My sensor is an original BLTouch Smart version 3.0 from Antclabs. I also have the 3D Touch here, which is a cheaper clone, that should also work with this setup. Basically, all the clones work similar. There might be some differences in the Marlin configuration, but we'll talk about that later.
Because some of you mentioned that different versions of the bltouch and 3d touch come with different cable colors, I would suggest you note down the cable color assignment at the back of the sensor so you know, which cable is connected to which pin at the bltouch.
The most important thing is that the BLTouch sensor needs to be mounted at a very specific height above the nozzle. Looking at the original Instruction manual from antclabs, the height difference between the nozzle tip and the bltouch tip when it's retracted can be between 2.3 and 4.3mm. So if we add those 4.3mm to the 4mm that the tip will about stand out from the housing, the bltouch housing's lower end should be 8.3mm away from the printbed.
So, the best way to check this is to print a leveling tool, which is going to help to check and adjust the height of the bltouch probe vs. the printbed.
So, how is the leveling tool used? First, you bring down the nozzle to the printbed. If you can still auto-home on your printer, use the auto home function for that. That's why I said in the beginning, leave it in place and connected, it might be useful later.
The alternative is to bring down the nozzle manually by turning the z-lead screw until the nozzle touches the bed and you might wanna put a piece of paper in between nozzle and bed because that is the distance, we're going for later in the final calibration.
Then, pushing the leveling tool underneath the bltouch should leave no gap. it should touch the bltouch housing and sit there quite firmly.
Next, let's make sure we get our cables sorted out correctly. With the BLTouch, normally there come some extension cables, but if not, you can also use some ordinary servo extension cables like these. You really need them because as like the other cables, you need to route these cables the same way back to the mainboard and that might be quite a long distance like in this case.
Since these servo extensions look identical, I am marking the other ends to remember which cable was connected to which one at the bltouch.
Next, we connect the BLTouch to the creality mainboard.
Here on the mainboard, we have two connections to do.
First, we connect the two endstop pins with to the Z-Endstop slot. So, now it's time to unplug the old endstop switch.
As I am using a three pin servo extension, I am replacing the connector with single dupont connectors, but if you are lucky to get extension cables with your bltouch, you probably don't need to do this.
Then, insert the two pin connector so the black cable is connected to the left pin and the white cable - in my case because of the servo extension, it's red - is connected to the right pin of the Z-Endstop slot. I consider right to be the side where the SD card reader is located.
Now we have three cables left to connect, that's the sensor pins. So double check the pinout of the BLTouch or 3DTouch version that you have noted and connect the signal pin, 5v and gnd pin to the corresponding pins on the PIN27 adapter.
Plug the display cable back in and then the PIN27 into the display connector slot on the mainboard.
You can also remove the old Z-Endstop switch from the frame, it's obsolete now.
So, hardwarewise, the BLTouch is installed and when you power on the printer, the BLTouch should at least make it's little up and down check. This will also tell you that the power is connected correctly.
Let's move on to the Marlin 2.0 configuration. And for this, I am using Visual Studio Code with the PlatformIO and Auto Build Marlin Extensions as in all of my previous videos about Marlin 2.0. I've linked a guide up here, where I expain the setup of the build environment just in case.
Also be aware that the line numbers I am mentioning might change over time as lines get added or removed to the configuration files, so using the search function to find the options might be better.
So, In Configuration.h, we need to find the BLTOUCH option, which is here at about line 891. Enable that to tell Marlin, we are using this specific kind of probe.
Next, starting at around line 944, there is a section, which is really important and totally confusing for a lot of you and I can relate because the way how it is written here and described can be sometimes misleading.
So what we want to fill in in the end is this NOZZLE TO PROBE OFFSET
So let's assume the nozzle is here, THIS is the front of the printer, THIS is the back of the printer.
Any position of the probe behind and/or to the right of the nozzle, is going to be positive values.
Any position of the probe to the left or to the front of the nozzle is considered to be a negative value.
So what you need to measure now is how much distance is there between the nozzle and the probe in each direction.
So in my setup, the probe is to the front and to the left, so the values are going to be negative in both cases.
And the amount of distance is 35 mm to the front and 49 mm to the left.
So my final NOZZLE TO PROBE OFFSET is going to be -49 comma -35 comma zero.
The third value is for a Z offset, which I'm going to ignore for now.
And don't enter it in the sample here but in the actual config line here below and don't ask why I'm saying this.
then there is MIN_PROBE_EDGE around line 967, a setting that defines how far away from the bed corners, the probing grid is going to be. Default is 10mm, which is fine for most cases but if you're using the bed clamps and such a huge fan duct like me, probably increase that to 20.
MULTIPLE_PROBING here at about line 987 defines, how often the sensor will measure the distance per probing point. So, normally, the probe takes one distance measurement per point and then moves on to the next point. If you discover that the results have a lot of variance, doing more probes per point can improve the accuracy but will also increase the time needed for bed leveling. I'm leaving it commented out for now.
Then, look for MIN SOFTWARE ENDSTOP Z, that should be around line 1124 and comment it out. This makes sure, we can calibrate the probe offset later correctly.
In about line 659 make sure, Z MIN PROBE ENDSTOP INVERTING is set to to true
and also check that Z MIN PROBE USES Z MIN ENDSTOP PIN in line 835 is enabled.
Next, we'lll go to about line 1209.
Here we find all the main switches to turn on different bed leveling options. So whatever is currently configured here for your printer, the only one we're going to enable for this tutorial is AUTO BED LEVELING BILINEAR. Every other option here should be disabled.
There's a fairly sophisticated option here, which is called Unified Bed Leveling. We'll touch that in another video for sure, but if you're just starting out, the bilinear bed leveling is totally good enough and much simpler to use.
Next, I am making sure that RESTORE LEVELING AFTER G28 is off, that's around line 1219, because that might have been enabled if I had MESH BED LEVELING enabled before. So if you are coming from that kind of setup, make sure it's commented out for this tutorial.
Let's move on to this section here around line 1232, where we wanna make sure ENABLE LEVELING FADE HEIGHT is enabled. Leveling fade height is a value that determines at what print height, the firmware starts gradually to remove the leveling corrections and that height can be configured later or it can also be disabled, so it will correct levels for the whole print, but normally above something like 10mm, leveling corrections are not necessary anymore, they basically have no effect anymore. So we wanna make sure we have the option to fade out the bed leveling if we want to.
Ok, next, there is a section with more settings for the auto bed leveling here at line 1258. The GRID MAX POINTS setting defines how many probe points the software will do in the x and y dimensions. This is normally set to 3, means we get 3 by 3 points, resulting in a total of 9 probing points. If you increase that number, I would actually make sure that it is always an uneven number so the middle point is always probed for, otherwise if we do 4 by 4 for example, there will be no probing point in the very center.
Also keep in mind that increasing that to a higher value will also increase the amount of time needed for the auto bed leveling process before your print will start. So anything beyond a 5 by 5 grid is probably not very useful but that's also individual for your kind of printbed. A glass pane might need less probing points than a metal sheet for example because the assumption is that the glass pane is more even and not so bumpy.
EXTRAPOLATE BEYOND GRID is another useful feature to enable. Let's assume that your bed is tilted and this is a very overexaggerated sketch. But let's say you only probe for these points here seen from the side and the tilt is not extrapolated to the outside, the assumption of the software would be that your bed looks like this. So let's just enable it, so it extrapolates that assumed tilt also for these outer points, just in case you like to print something really large.
Then, around line 1318, enable LCD BED LEVELING. This wil add a menu option for the printer menu to actually use and configure auto bed leveling from the printer menu, otherwise you only can use GCODE commands to configure anything.
Next, we need to enable Z_SAFE_HOMING at line 1363. This will make sure that running a G28 Homing command or an Auto Home from the printer menu will do this in the center of the bed. Otherwise, the sensor might be put in a position outside of the bed and so it will have nothing to trigger and run the carriage into the frame or the nozzle into the bed.
OK, that's all the changes for Configuration.h, let's move on to Configuration_adv.h.
We'll do some BLTouch settings here at around line 606 and below.
The first one is BLTOUCH_DELAY, which you might want to enable and set to 500, this will make sending commands to the probe a bit more reliable.
Then, for most DIY printers where you have open electronics and unshielded wires, it could make sense to enable BLTOUCH FORCE SW MODE if you find that the probing is unreliable. but let's keep it disabled for now.
In the comments of these settings there is sometimes mentioned whether the setting is meant to be for a specific version of the BLTouch sensor or if it should also work with clones like the 3D touch but there is also some settings here that are specifically only for the BLTouch v3.0 and 3.1. If you're not 100% sure that you have any of those, leave these settings untouched.
There is a so called 5 volt mode for the BLTouch smart version 3.0 and 3.1, which is supposed to create more reliable results or more precise measuring but I have to find out if that is really the case. It seems this is enabled by default on the Ender 3 configuration, so I am going to leave it as it is.
Finally, we need to make two changes to reduce the size of the firmware so it fits on the mainboard.
In Configuration.h enable SLIM_LCD_MENUS around line 1688.
and in Configuration_adv.h disable ARC_SUPPORT in around line 1629.
Good, let's compile the firmware and upload it to the board. If you missed my my video on how to do that for the Ender 3, I've linked it up here for your reference.
If you run into another EEPROM error like me, you need to load the default configuration using the configuration menu and then the restore defaults item, followed by a stored settings and finally recycle power once again, so the error will disappear.
So, the new firmware is installed on the printer, let's start by doing an auto home to see what's going to happen with the BLTouch installed.
The new thing you notice is that the printer does the z-homing with the probe in the middle of the bed. If you see that the homing is done with the nozzle in the middle of the bed, you probably have not set your Nozzle to probe offset correctly.
If you fix that, you also need to restore the default settings and store them again, otherwise the new nozzle to probe offset will not have any effect.
What we should do now is to calibrate the z-offset, that's setting how close we like to have the nozzle to the printbed when it is at zero height.
First, heat up the nozzle and bed to your normal printing temperature, for me that's 215 for the nozzle and 60 for the bed.
Then, do an auto home again.
Now, let's bring down the nozzle to the printbed using the Motion - Move Axis - Move Z Menu. I am using 0.1mm steps and will move the nozzle down until it touches the paper sheet and I can feel some resistance.
So, you wanna note this new negative probe offset, in my case -0.4.
Now, go to the configuration - Probe Z Offset menu and set this value to the probe offset, so I am going to set it to -0.4.
Then, in the configuration menu, use the store settings item to store that new offset into the EEPROM.
And we'll do another auto home.
So, the new starting Z-Offset after the auto home will be 10.04, which is the original offset + the absolute value of the offset.
If you now bring down the nozzle again to 0.0, it should be exactly at the desired distance where it grabs the paper. If not, change the z-offset setting accordingly and repeat this test.
Next, I wanna do a final check if the Auto Bed Leveling command does what it should.
So let's send the printer a G29 command or we can also invoke the Level Bed function from the Motion - Bed Leveling - Level Bed Item to start a bed leveling.
The printer now probes in the 9 points, I have configured in the firmware.
Finally, what you need to do is to enable bed leveling in the start GCode of your slicer software by adding the G29 command in a new line after the G28 command.
Now, you should be ready to use auto bed leveling in every print.
I hope you find this video helpful, if so, give it a thumbs up and also watch some of my other videos, I've linked in these two cards here.
See you next time, bye bye!
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It's important to know a little about how the BLTouch auto-bed leveling sensor works with 3D printers like the Ender 3 V2 to understand the small adjustments you'll need to make later on.
What is BLTouch?
First appearing in 2015, the BLTouch by Antclabs is an add-on electrical component for a 3D printer that uses a sensor stem to detect any tilt in the bed surface. It's built to use very little power at idle and use so that it can be installed directly in the Ender 3's motherboard, without any heat issues.
If you want to learn more about the BLTouch, here's a nifty video from the creators themselves. This isn't specific to the Ender 3 or Ender 3 V2.
What types of surfaces will it work for?
Any! The latest version of the BLTouch does not use any optical sensors or proximity sensors. Instead, it uses a plastic sensor stem that makes physical contact with the build surface so that any surface can be used.
BLTouch versus other auto-bed leveling methods
The main difference between BLTouch and other auto-leveling methods has to do with the kind of sensor used.
Other sensor methods
Other auto-leveling methods use an optical or proximity sensor to determine any inaccuracies in the slope of the build surface. Those methods have the benefit of being able to adjust while the printing is happening. But have the downsides of not working with certain bed materials and being expensive to repair.
With the BLTouch, you can use any type of bed and need only swap out the plastic nozzle if it's damaged. There's also a ton of support and articles that can help you if you run into trouble using your BLTouch.
As stated above, we highly recommend you save yourself some hassle and go with the BLTouch kit we used for the install.
If using the BLTouch kit
Again, it has everything you need to install the BLTouch on the Ender 3 V2, original Ender 3, or Ender 3 Pro. It includes:
- The BLTouch
- Extension cable
- Mounting bracket (for Ender 3 V2, Ender 3, and Ender 3 Pro)
- Zip ties for wires
- Replacement sensor stem for the BLTouch
If buying pieces separately
Below you'll find links to each product you'll need if you're buying pieces separately.
- BLTouch with extension cable (We use the latest version (V 2.0), which Creality supports directly with its firmware update.)
- Mounting bracket As of this writing, you can't purchase a separate bracket for the Ender 3 V2, but you can 3D print one! (Make sure it's the correct bracket for the Ender 3 V2! You'll need different brackets for the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro.)
- 2 M2 x 6 + 2 M2 x 8 bolts (We linked to a small kit that includes the required bolt sizes.)
- Zip ties
Because you'll be working with the Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro motherboard to install the BLTouch, you definitely want to unplug the wire from the printer's power supply.
It's located at the back of all of the Ender 3-series units.
Because you'll be using the BLTouch to level your Ender 3 V2's bed and setting the Z-axis manually, you won't need the limiter switch.
- Using your hex key, unscrew the two bolts attached to your Z-axis limiter to the Ender 3 V2.
- You can either remove the wire from the mainboard when you open it up later on, or you can simply zip-tie the wire behind the frame.
Insert the small end of your extension cable into the back of the BLTouch. We recommend you do this step first, as it will be harder to insert once it's been mounted. Below you'll find the order of the wires, in case you have to solder.
- Using your hex key and the two M3 x 8 bolts, screw the BLTouch into your mounting bracket so that it will face towards the build surface.
- Next, using the remaining two bolts, mount the mounting bracket just to the left of your Ender 3 V2's fan. The holes should be predrilled.
If you have one of the nifty small nuts and bolts kit, then you can add two M3 nuts to further secure the BLTouch to the mounting bracket, as pictured below.
- String your extension cable to the fan's wiring harness, which extends out of the fan and along the back of your Ender 3 V2.
- Continue to string the extension cable, following the main wire harness path around the back of the unit to the motherboard.
- Secure with zip ties at key locations to keep the wire secure.
- Using your M2 hex key, unscrew the bolts from the bottom of the control box (located on the front-left of your Ender 3 V2). (See below.)
- And unscrew the bolt on top, as well.
- Carefully remove the control box enough to access the motherboard, paying special attention to the fan.
- Note the wiring location of the fan and unplug the fan from the motherboard. (This will ensure you don't break the wire as you install the BLTouch.)
For Ender 3 V2
If you're using the BLTouch kit, then you should be able to just plug the connector in the slot labeled "BLTouch" on the mainboard. (See image above for its location.)
If you're needing to solder, then I would remove some of the wires from the mainboard to give you some space. Here's the ordering of the wires from top to bottom:
For Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro
The BLTouch wiring connects to the Ender 3 mainboard by splicing into the Z Endstop connector. This connector is labeled with a small yellow label that reads "Z".
There are two options for connecting the BLTouch to your Ender 3's existing wiring: if you have a soldering iron, you can splice a wire in. If you don't, you may want to purchase this extension board so that you can connect it without soldering.
I recommend using the breakout board as it's simpler and saves a lot of time. Most BLTouch kits for the Ender 3 come with this now.
- Remove the LCD connector out of its housing to gain access to the pins next to it. The LCD connector is the wide strip of gray wires.
- Remove the Z-endstop plug (labeled with a "Z").
- Carefully switch the wires out of the Z-endstop plug with the black and white wires from the BLTouch (White on left; Black on right).
- Plug it back in the same slot with the BLTouch wires installed.
- If you're using the adapter board, place the adapter board into the connector where the LCD ribbon cable used to be. (It will only fit one way.)
- The remaining three wires should fit in the plug on the adapter.
- Before you do this make sure the wires are in the correct order. (Shown below.) You may need to reverse wires in the plug itself.
- Reattach the LCD ribbon cable.
- Close the control box up.
Before you close it up, note the version of your mainboard (4.2.2 or 4.2.7). It's written in the center of your mainboard.
- Plug the fan back into the correct slot on the motherboard.
- Use your hex key to screw back in the bolts to the Ender 3's control box.
It's easiest if you start with the two bolts nearest the front of the printer.
Because Creality now supports BLTouch directly in its firmware, it makes installing and using the BLTouch with the Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Pro super easy!
Ender 3 V2 Firmware —Fetch the correct firmware from the Creality Ender 3 V2 downloads page and install it on your printer.
Ender 3 Pro Firmware— Here you can find the official BLTouch firmware for the Ender 3 Pro.
Check out our guide on installing firmware on the Ender 3 V2 to see how to update your firmware. (The same guide works for the Ender 3 Pro.)
For Ender 3
It's a bit trickier to update the firmware on the original Ender 3, but not a big deal. You'll need to modify your printer's firmware to add a few lines that BLTouch needs in order to function. I wrote a separate Ender 3 bootloader/firmware update guide; use that guide to get started.
Ender 3 Firmware— You can find the official Creality Ender 3 source code and files on the Creality firmware page. Just make sure you download the correct package (saying BLTouch).
In some cases, you may find that your language resets to Chinese by default. If this happens, follow our guide to change the language back to English on the Ender 3 V2.
Which is the correct firmware for Ender 3 V2?
You may notice a variety of options for the new Ender 3 V2 firmware. Here's what you need to figure out.
The first thing you need to know is which mainboard you're running for your Ender 3 V2. Hopefully, you noted this earlier when opening your control box. If you don't know, then here's a little table to help you figure it out.
|On some pre-2021 Ender 3 V2s||On ALL 2021 + Ender 3 V2s|
|Louder operation||Quiter operation|
Listening to the operation should tell you. If it's operating loudly, you likely have the 4.2.2. Otherwise, you'll have to look on the motherboard itself.
Make sure the firmware you select says BLTouch.
The last thing you'll need to figure out is which version you need V1.3.1- BLTouch or V1.1.1- BLTouch. The easiest way is to try the latest version. If that does not work, then repeat the firmware install with V1.1.1. (V1.1.1 is the version that worked for our Ender 3 V2.)
Is BLTouch working?
Once you update your firmware, you should see the BLTouch light-up red after turning the printer on. If it is, then it's working thus far! Congrats!
- "Auto home" the nozzle by going to Prepare > Auto home.
- Change the Z-axis by going to Move > Move Z and rotating the knob to turn the Z-axis to Ø.
Now, you're going to adjust the Z-offset on your Ender 3 V2 so that it's flush with the print bed.
Adjust the Z-offset down a little at a time to avoid running the nozzle into your print bed and damaging it.
- In the Prepare screen, select Z-offset (misspelled in our firmware version as "Z-offest").
- Turn the knob, adjusting the Z-offset a little at a time until the nozzle just begins to touch the print bed. Use a piece of paper, like you do when you manually level the Ender 3 V2 print bed.
- Continue to adjust the Z-offset negatively until the paper is hard to move.
Ender 3 Pro Adjustment
The process is essentially the same on the Ender 3 Pro, except that you need to save your settings after adjusting the Z-offset properly.
After you auto-home with the Ender 3 Pro:
- Go to Motion > Move Axis > Move Z.
- Now, you're going to move the Z-axis down by small increments until the nozzle just grips a piece of paper you place underneath.
- Note the value of the Z-offset!
- Go back to the main screen on the Ender 3 Pro.
- Go to Prove Z-offset.
- Put in the value you recorded earlier (ex. -2.4).
- Go back to the main screen.
- Go to Configuration and click Store Settings.
And now you're ready to begin leveling!
Don't worry if you don't get this perfect the first time. We'll show you how to adjust this later on.
Now for the fun part! Select Level on the Ender 3, Ender 3 V2, or Ender 3 Pro screen to run the BLTouch's auto-leveling program. You should see the BLTouch measure 12 different points on the print bed to determine its slope.
It takes about 2-3 minutes and will return to the center when it's complete.
Now, you'll need to update the G-code settings of whatever slicing program you use, such as Cura or Simplify3D. We use Cura as our slicer, so we'll show you how to update the settings there. But whichever slicer program you're using, you'll need to add just one line right below :
Changing Cura settings
- In Cura, click on Ultimaker Cura at the very top-left of your screen.
- Go to Preferences > Printers > [Name of your Ender 3 V2 Printer]
- Click Machine Settings
- Under "Start G-code," add below line .
Now, every time you print something you've sliced, the printer will automatically level and use the settings to print the object.
If you're using the official firmware supporting BLTouch from Creality, you shouldn't have any issues using Octoprint with the BLTouch. It should work just fine, so long as you update the slicer settings with the code.
However, you may run into trouble when using a 3rd-party firmware for the BLTouch, such as the Smith3D firmware for the Ender 3 V2, which doesn't natively support Octoprint. In those cases, you'll need to customize the Marlin code in the firmware to run with Octoprint.
BLTouch plugin for Octoprint
The BLTouch plugin can be installed in Octoprint to give you some nifty features so that you can control the BLTouch remotely from the Octoprint server. It can be found in the Plugin Repository in Octoprint. Check out our guide on finding and installing Octoprint plugins if you need help. You can also install it manually, using the Github link.
Run a test print to ensure that your BLTouch is auto-leveling before the print and that the filament is adhering perfectly to the print bed. You may need to slightly adjust the Z-offset in either direction, depending on the issue you're having.
Adjusting after a test print
You may find you need to adjust this slightly if your filament either doesn't stick the bed or the nozzle is too close to the bed. Here's what you do.
If the filament doesn't stick (nozzle too far away from bed)
Adjust the Z-offset just a bit (0.01) in the negative direction. This will bring the extruder closer to the print bed.
If the filament is too close to bed (nozzle too close to bed)
Adjust the Z-offset a bit (0.01) in the positive direction. This will move the extruder further from the print bed.
Setting up Marlin is fiddly at the best of times. Having to revise your configurations every update certainly doesn’t help. This is a no nonsense, simple guide (and note to self) to configuring Marlin 2.0 for the Ender 3/Pro with BLTouch ABL sensor. I’m using an SKR v1.4 Turbo. The same applies for the original Creality Melzi 1.X.X boards, just be sure to save as much space as possible!
Firstly, you’ll need the Marlin firmware with the appropriate template settings.
- Start by downloading the latest stable release of Marlin from here.
- Extract the zip.
- Copy the 4 files from to the folder, overwriting the 2 already there.
Open the new file using a text editor suitable for code, like Sublime Text or Notepad++. We’ll customise our configuration now:
- Change to clearly differentiate the configuration from the default
- Disable and to save space by commenting out the lines (prefix them with )
- Ensure you have the correct BAUDRATE. The original Ender 3 was configured to 115200 by Creality, but the newer Ender 3 Pro (and newer Creality motherboards) default to 250000. You may be fine with 250000 on an older Ender 3.
- Change to represent your printer, e.g.
- If you’re using a BLTouch ABL sensor:
- is not required to set up your BLTouch in Marlin 2.x, as it’s defined in the pins folder by default
- You’ll need to customise the offset between Probe and Extruder. In Marlin 1.x, this was done with , and . In Marlin 2.x, they’re now combined in . Instructions are in the comments. Using the Creality BLTouch Kit bracket, mine is . It’s safer to leave Z as 0 here are calibrate this yourself later.
- To keep the probe away from the edge of the bed, increase to 20
- You can increase to 10000 to speed up probing slightly
- Uncomment to enable bilinear ABL
- By default, bilinear ABL uses a 3×3 grid. You can change this by editing under . Mine is set to 5, for a 5×5 grid
- Uncomment to add bed leveling menu items
- If your bed is non-standard, you’ll need to adjust the size and/or travel limits to make sure Marlin knows this. I use bulldog clips to secure a glass bed. To ensure the nozzle stays clear of the clips, I’ve changed the following: from 235 to 199, from 0 to -2, from 0 to -24.
- Uncomment . This prevents your Z homing from occuring without prior X and Y homing. Without this, you may accidentally miss the bed when homing Z.
- To increase the homing speed, increase from to and from to .
- If you want to use PID to efficiently heat your bed, uncomment . You’ll need to calibrate this later.
- If you’re using a “silent” Creality board v1.1.4 or v1.1.5, you’re using TMC2208 drivers in standalone mode. Uncomment , , and and set them to .
- To save space, uncomment . This will remove many menu items that you won’t need if controlling using a PC or OctoPrint.
- To save space:
- Comment out . This will stop fully disable the speaker.
- If you won’t be printing from SD card, comment out and . If you are still using an SD card, it’s time to look into OctoPi.
- If you can do without scrolling long file names on the display, comment out .
- Save the file and close the file.
Open the new file in your chosen text editor.
- If you’re using a BLTouch:
- Uncomment and change from 500 to 200. This reduces the pause after each individual probe.
- Babystepping allows the nozzle to move a tiny amount without changing the recorded coordinates for the hotend. This is usually used for calibrating your Z Offset for a perfect first layer. You can increase and to 10 for faster motion.
- Uncomment and
- If you want to use Linear Advance to increase your print quality at higher speeds, uncomment and set from 0.22 to 0, which will enable the feature but turn it off. Your GCODE will need to specify the K value, which you’ll calibrate later. You need different K values for different filament types. Note that LinearsAdvance is not compatible with the TMC2208 stepper driver in Standalone mode (using StealthChop), so will not worth with Creality “silent” boards v1.1.4 and v1.1.5.
- To save space, comment out . This feature is used by other types of CNC machines, but usually not 3D printers.
- If you want to display progress and time remaining from another system with the command, such as OctoPrint, uncomment . If your system will also send the parameter to update the time remaining, uncomment .
- Marlin watches the rate of temperature increase for hotend and bed. If it’s too slow, it will trigger an error and halt your print. If you have the windows open for ventilation and it’s cold out, this can be a problem. Increase a little if you have this issue.
- Save your changes and close the file.
To The Printer!
- Take a copy of your output to save your current printer settings. You’ll need to put some of these back later.
- Open with the Arduino IDE and write the new firmware to your printer.
- Run to set all settings to those specified in your firmware files, then to store these settings in the EEPROM.
- Depending on your configuration, you’ll now want to calibrate your Z-Probe Offset, PID for Hotend and Heated Bed and Linear Advance, or set them from your previous values.
Bltouch marlin 3 ender
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