Water in atv oil

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ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Maintenance > how do i get water out of my engine?


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05-30-2004, 09:38 AM

Well, me and my friends went riding one night and ran into a flooded road. We tried to get through but it just kept getting deeper and deeper. I have a 450r and i tried to turn around but i went off into even deeper water pretty much over the whole four wheeler, and the engine died. i drained the air box and tipped it up on the back end trying to get some water out. I kicked it for about 20 min. and finally got it st arted. It shot out water out of the pipe and finally cleaned up and ran good enough to get me home. When i got home my engine oil and tranny oil were both whitish gray and i drained both of them. My question is whats the best thing to do to get all water and stuff out of the radiator and engine and everywhere?? i didnt know if it would get into the radiator or not.. just need some info please, my baby is a risk! thanks any suggestions are appreciated


05-30-2004, 11:32 AM

you have to change the oil...start it up let it run...shut it off...change the oil again....and repeat the process untill the oil is no longer gray...might want to take the plug out and kick it over to blow anywater off the cylinder....drain the radiator, and any other kinda fluids it could have hurt....


06-05-2004, 08:17 PM

how can u do that to a 450r.. you can change the oil and keep dong it but it will never be the same again.. honestly since the 450 r is still pretty new.... I would get the oil to were its not whiteish anymore and sell it... becausebelieve me it will run good for a while but its going to come back and haunt you!!! But some people may think otherwise but i will jut tell u from experiance.... I hear thee is a way u can run dieasl through your motor to clean it out also.. Not for long but just to clean and rinse out your motor... much better than changing oil 5 times and still have a little but i am not sure of the exact process but it would be something to look into.. just my 2 cents tho


06-10-2004, 02:32 PM

how can u do that to a 450r.. you can change the oil and keep dong it but it will never be the same again.. honestly since the 450 r is still pretty new.... I would get the oil to were its not whiteish anymore and sell it... becausebelieve me it will run good for a while but its going to come back and haunt you!!! But some people may think otherwise but i will jut tell u from experiance.... I hear thee is a way u can run dieasl through your motor to clean it out also.. Not for long but just to clean and rinse out your motor... much better than changing oil 5 times and still have a little but i am not sure of the exact process but it would be something to look into.. just my 2 cents tho

wow ur a moron..... ive done this numerous times on my old 99 300ex never changed the oil once when i did it and its still running today strong...... never rebuilt once.........


06-10-2004, 04:47 PM

well apparently u got lucky.... I guess where were from there is alot of sandin the water and mud.. and once sand gets in ur motor... u gonna tell me you not gonna change you oil??? that sand is just gonna eat ur wall away and not changing your oil after you drowning it out is a moronic act to me.... well i just said what i heard was done... there was no point and callin names or being a lil *****.. I was just saying what I heard was done...


06-11-2004, 04:40 AM

Rough move with the goining for a swim, bet ya won't do that again. Well the oil flushing system is about as good as I know how to fix the problem. As that dude said you might mix abit of diesel in with your oil to see what it cleans out. (Key point 'A-BIT' NO more that half your oil) And did you know that automatic tranny fluid is like a SUPER detergent? perhaps try mixing ABIT in with your motor oil, It's up to you if you wanna try the transmission side, I don't know if it could hurt your clutch or not....
But for this summer I REALLY suggest you put the effort into changing the oil every time you go for a serious ride, like going out for more that 2 hours. this is what is going to do you the most good.


06-15-2004, 06:42 AM



06-28-2004, 02:23 PM

yes u have 2 chage the oil many times then let it run for like 10 min then start revving it very high dont be afraid 2 hold the thumb lever all the way down just let off omce and a while u have 2 get the engin hot so more water evaps


06-28-2004, 07:03 PM

You just need to change the oil over and over again as everyone has said. It is the only way I have ever heard of. If you think there is ALOT of water in the cylinder I would try what the other TC said and remove your spark plug and turn it over to puke any of it out... Just gotta pick up a case of oil and keep changing. It could be worse man....


06-28-2004, 07:07 PM

i still want to know what kinda drugs this man smoked to get him to cross a flooded road with his BRAND NEW QUAD...musta been some heavy duty chit...cuz my quad dont even go near water

i mean man aint u ever watched the news...they said..if you see a flooded road....dont attempt to cross it

red2004 TRX450R

06-29-2004, 10:46 AM

Back in the day I left my 200sx in a swamp for a week under water till I could get it out.
This thing had a good 8 years of hard riding on it to.
Any way I just changed the oil like 5 times and letting it run couple of minutes each time then changed it like every 5 hours after that for like 3 times. I also drain the gas and cleaned the carp and other stuff like that. Its an 1987 and this happened in like 1997 and it still runs fine for my neighbor now. But i did sell it like a month after this happned.

I would do change your oil like 5 thime after the first couple of minutes then like 5 times like an hour for a wile.

Hondas never die!!!

just my .02$


06-30-2004, 11:32 PM

I was out for a ride up north, and my 250ex got really muddy, so i dipped it into the river by where we were riding, all of a sudden my quad went a lil to deep at the front and started floating. Next thing i knew i couldnt back out fast enough and my quad went under, and it died, water rushing right into the engine. I tipped it up and drained it all, then got my dads Foreman to tow me for a while so the water would spit out. After a while it started right back up again and i rode for the rest of the day fine. changed the oil when i got home and ive never had a problem with the bike EVER. I dont think water in the engine will hurt a quad that bad, didnt do anything to mine.

But a 450r engine is different then a 250ex, and might damage easier.. i dont know, but like i said I never had a problem with it. Honda runs strong nomatter wat.


07-06-2004, 12:25 AM

I have waterlogged my old 250sx, (basically a sportier bigred), lots of times, I know it's not exactly a 450r, but i've seen it happen to lots of different bikes from tri-z's to timberwolves.

All I ever do is just limp back to my truck, and change the oil, maybe run a little through it first. Simple as that, your good to go.

You dont need to sell it, and you wont have enough water in your oil to begin to worry about till its time to change it again.

You dont need to worry about water in the cylinder, once it cranks, any moisture in there gets blown out/evaporates quick.

If it makes you feel better, go ahead & change it 10 times or run atf through it.

Where I have ridden for years, this is a common thing, I've done it and seen it done many times...........Since I got my 250sx in 86' I would say that i've drowned (oil tured to sandy milk) it at least 25-30 times. Now she looks beat as hell, but still runs like a champ, and never needed any engine work at all.

So anyway IMO don't worry about it.



07-06-2004, 10:19 AM

Thanks for all your replys, She's runnin' strong and worry free. I changed the oil like 10 times in the engine side and like 6 times in the transmission side and all of the water is gone.
But, thanks again for all your help ;)

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Whether you are stuck with the misfortune of sending your ATV through the ice on a frozen lake, or if you’ve sunk it into a bottomless mudhole, there are some crucial steps you need to take to save your bike from the junkyard.

I know exactly how you feel right now, but fear not! The bike is not necessarily trashed; you can most likely salvage it without breaking the bank.

If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, you should have no problems performing this recovery on your own. If there is no engine damage, your bike has a good chance of getting back in shape without any permanent damage.

All you have to do is to follow the steps in this guide.

Yes, there are a lot of steps, but not all are too time-consuming. Time-vise you should set aside the better half of a day to do this properly.

If you skip some steps or parts of the steps, you may find yourself paying the consequences later, so take your time to do it properly.

How does water enter the engine, and why is it bad?

Before I get into the actual steps, I’ll address why water sometimes may enter your engine. Because it is not only when you sink the bike to the bottom of the ocean this may happen.

If you ride fast through deep water, it may splash up into the air intake, sucking water into the engine. Riders who intentionally ride in waist-deep mud install snorkels to prevent this from happening, but you are not safe even then.

When adequate amounts of water enter the engine, it will hydro lock. And it actually takes a surprisingly small amount of water for this to happen.

I won’t get too technical as I’m not claiming to be a trained mechanic. But basically, what happens is that when the piston goes up in the cylinder, it compresses the air above the piston just as it is supposed to.

But unlike air, water cannot be compressed, at least very little. So if you get more water inside the cylinder than the volume above the piston, when it is at its highest point (not very much!), the excess water has nowhere to go.

The piston cannot complete its travel. It’s like trying to fit 2 liters of water inside a 1-liter bottle. It cannot be done.

When this happens, one of two things will occur:

If you are lucky, all that happens is that the engine stops; it dies out instantly when the piston cannot travel any further. This is a more likely outcome if the hydro lock happens when the engine is idling or when you are not using too much power.

The engine can also die out before any damage is done to the engine if it chokes out because of water entering the air/fuel mixture.

If you are not so lucky, you will get one or more mechanical failures like bent or broken piston rods, fractured crankcase, engine head or engine block, damaged bearings or valves.

All this because the piston tries to neglect the laws of physics. Keep in mind that damage to the engine is more likely when the hydro lock happens at speed.

If you hear any abnormal metal sounds when the water enters, you may be out of luck. You may be able to bring back to life a damaged engine after a substantial rebuild, or in the worst-case, you may need to replace the whole engine.

If you have completed this guide, including installing new spark-plugs, and the engine still won’t run, or it runs rough, it’s time to start thinking of calling your favorite mechanic.

A simple compression test may give you a good indication if everything is as it’s supposed to be.

But now you have quite a lot of work ahead of you, so let’s start recovering!

Step 1: Get the bike out of the water

As soon as you get water into the engine, hit the kill switch and get a buddy. The bike needs to get out of the water as soon as possible to prevent more water from seeping in everywhere.

You will need a winch, or a tugboat, depending on how deep of a mess you’ve gotten yourself in.

Turn off the key. Please put it in neutral and tow it on shore.

Step 2: Count to ten, take a deep breath, and shake it off!

At this point, you are your own worst enemy. You are panicking and may be acting irrationally.

Doing the wrong things now will only make the situation worse.

So before you move on, you need to make sure you are thinking clearly. Now is not the time to do anything hasty.

Whatever you do, DO NOT try to start the engine at this point. It is most likely hydro locked, and trying to start it may cause or worsen any damage that already has occurred.

Step 3: Drain the air filter box and remove the filter

Your air filter box will likely be full of water at this point. The box needs to be cleaned to prevent more water or dirt from entering the engine.

  • Remove the seat. Open the airbox and remove the filter. If you got a Honda, also remove the little crankcase filter.
  • Open the airbox drain plug, or remove the whole box if it cannot be drained.
  • Before you reassemble the airbox, later on, you should clean out any water or mud and let it dry.
  • Clean the air filter if it is of the reusable foam type. Make sure it is dry, and applied air filter oil before you install it.
  • If the bike has a paper-type air filter, it will be waterlogged by now and needs replacing.
  • Disassemble the whole airbox and clean out all of the water and mud. You will need a new air filter if you’ve been riding in mud.

Step 4: 12 O’clock the bike

Get help from a buddy or three and tip the bike 90 degrees backward until water stops running out of the motor and the exhaust. Then set it back down again.

Now you are done with the initial “first-aid” and should get the bike to wherever your tools are.

Tow it, put it on a trailer, or airlift it with a helicopter. But do not ride it at this point!

When you get home, your goal will be to get the water out of the engine as soon as you can.

Step 5: Clean the air inlet and breather tubes

Clean out the air inlet if there is any mud, muck. Ensure there is no mud left so that you don’t suck in any additional debris into the engine when you start it.

Do not forget to clean the breather tubes. Disassemble them, rinse them in water and let them dry before you reassemble them.

Step 6: Dry out the stator

Depending on how long your bike was submerged, water may have entered the stator housing. Remove the stator cover, and some water will likely pour out.

Use an air compressor to blow from all angles to get most of the water out. Then use a hairdryer or any hot air blower to dry out the rest of the moisture. Be careful, so you don’t melt anything, keep some distance with the blower.

If you don’t have these tools, you need to wait longer for the stator to dry out. But make sure the stator housing is completely dry before reinstalling the cover.

Step 7: Dry out the belt housing on the CVT

If your bike has a belt-driven transmission, you need to drain out all of the water. Most bikes have a drain plug at the bottom that you can open. If your bike doesn’t have this, you need to open the belt housing cover.

If you were riding in some muddy water, you should preferably open the cover in any case to clean the inside and the pulleys. Let dry before you reassemble. If you ride with a wet belt, you may get belt burning.

Step 8: Flush the cooling system

If your bike was completely submerged, you need to flush the cooling system to remove any contaminated water. Water may have entered through the overflow.

Drain it. Run it with clean water for some minutes. Drain again and fill up with the factory spec coolant.

Step 9: Drain the gas tank and carburetor

Again, if the bike was completely submerged, you will likely have gotten water inside your gas tank. Drain the tank and also the carburetor or the throttle body which holds the injector.

If you are lucky, you will find a small screw at the very bottom of each of these components for easy draining. If not, you have to be creative.

If the carburetor does not have a drain screw, you can alternatively drop the float bowl (the bottom part, held in place with 4 screws).

Also, disconnect the throttle body/carb air duct inlet tube and dry out.

If your bike has a carburetor and you want to do an extra thorough job, you should consider cleaning the carburetor inside to be completely certain you got rid of any remaining moisture or dirt.

Take the carburetor out of the bike and disassemble it. You can leave the floater in place, but it’s best to remove the jets for better access.

Use compressed air to blow in any hole and angle to get as much of the water out. Spray it with carb cleaner. Then let it dry completely before reassembling.

If the bike was submerged for some time, the gaskets may also be soaked in water and need drying or replacing. They are only a few bucks, so a re-pack is recommended.

With the carb off, use a paper towel to clean both the intake manifold and the reed valve area (outlet).

Then refit the carb to the bike.

Step 10: Empty the cylinder of any remaining water

Now it’s time to start the engine to blow out any remaining water from the engine. You will also lube it to prevent the internals of the engine from rusting.

Remove all spark plug wires and spark plugs (or the injectors if the bike is fuel injected). This is done to create an opening for the water and pressure to escape when the cylinder is moving.

Do not skip this part because failing to create an opening at the top of each cylinder will possibly lead to hydro-locking and damage to the engine! Consider yourself warned.

Turn the engine several times until it stops squirting water out of the holes where the spark plugs or injectors were. Use the kick starter if the bike does not have a starter. A good 5 minutes of kicking should do the job.

Put everything back in place and start the four-wheeler. Don’t rev it. Let it idle for some minutes to let it clear the exhaust.

While it runs, spray some WD40 into the air inlet to lube up all of the motor’s insides and displace any water. Some think seafoam is better, but be aware that it may gum up your carburetor.

If you spray too much, you will choke out the motor, so spray just short bursts at a time until you have gotten a general amount of lube inside the engine.

It will smoke like crazy because of the water evaporating and the wd 40 burning but don’t be alarmed; this is normal. At least for the first couple of minutes.

Step 11: Replace the plugs

If your bike has plugs, they were likely fouled when the bike hit the water and needs replacing before you will be able to start the bike.

Then it may start and run for some seconds before it dies again.

Expect to go through about 3-4 plugs before you get the bike going. A minimal amount of water left in the engine will be enough to foul the plug when initially trying to start it.

Be patient, and check for a spark. Using starter fluid or even trying to jump-start the bike is not recommended as this will only result in more fouled plugs.

As long as the bike runs rough, try replacing the spark plugs as they are likely gone bad.

Step 12: Change the engine oil

You may have been lucky and avoided getting water into the engine oil, but it’s not worth risking it if you are not sure. You may be able to see the water mixed with oil by pulling out the dipstick.

You will get a definite answer as soon as you drain the crankcase. If the oil got water into it will not look black (or clear brown if it was new). It will look light brown and mushy, almost like creamy coffee.

After draining the contaminated oil, fill up with ordinary diesel to flush out any bad oil and water. Because of the diesel’s limited lubing abilities, you should not ride the bike or rev it with diesel in the engine.

Don’t even bother with installing a filter, as it will need replacing anyway. Just put the cover back on with no filter. If the bike cannot be started without a filter installed, just use a cheap one.

Start the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Stop the bike and drain the diesel. Repeat one more time, or until you see only clear diesel.

The final time, let it drain for 30 minutes to get most of the diesel out.

Then you should fill up with some cheap engine oil to the maximum mark on the dipstick. You can skip the diesel altogether, but then you will need to use more oil, which costs more.

Start the bike and let it idle for 10 minutes to allow the oil to mix with any remaining water or diesel. Drain and repeat one more time.

After draining the second time, you can install a new filter and quality oil according to factory spec.

Now you are done!

Step 13: Check differentials and transmission for water

Start by opening the cap where you would normally fill oil. Stick your little finger in and dip it in the oil. If the oil is clear, you are OK and can move on to the next step.

If it is creamy white, like the engine oil, water got in, and it needs replacing.

Drain all of the oil. You may need to tilt the bike to both sides to get it all out. If you have access to an air compressor, you will get even more oil out by blowing air into the filler hole on top.

Fill up with some cheap oil as you did with the engine. Ride the bike for some minutes and immediately drain out the oil again. Repeat until the oil looks clear.

Then fill up with the manufacturer-specific oil according to the specs in the manual (usually until oil runs out of the overflow/fill hole with the bike on a level surface).

Step 14: Flush the brakes

Really? Arent the brakes a sealed system, you may ask. How can water get in?

Well, the reservoir at the master cylinder will have a vented cap that allows air to enter or escape any time the cylinder is depressed or released. And if this cap ends up below water, water will enter the brake system.

Get some new brake fluid that matches your user manual’s requirements (usually DOT3/4). Start flushing the system by bleeding the brakes while you top of with new brake fluid regularly.

DO NOT let the reservoir tank level drop below the minimum mark, as air may enter the system, and the whole job will take much more time than necessary.

Continue until clear brake fluid starts to appear at the nipple.

Step 15: Dry and lube electric connections (optional)

This step is mostly done to prevent any issues down the road.

Disconnect all accessible electrical connections and inline fuses and blow them out. Give them a shot of WD40 before you reconnect them.

This will prevent any corrosion and bad connections later on.

Step 16: Grease up the bike

Simply because it deserves it; after all, you’ve put it through! This will also prevent rust.

Haavard Krislok

I'm an ATV and offroad-enthusiast, an engineer, a farmer, and an avid home-mechanic. I'm also the owner and editor of BoostATV.com. If you have any questions or suggestions regarding this article, please feel free to contact me.

Sours: https://boostatv.com/repair-submerged/
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What to Do With a Submerged ATV

Sucking water into your internal combustion engine is more common than you might think. If you do a lot of offroading and ride through rivers, streams, puddles, and lakes, or if you spend any time riding with people like Travis Pastrana, you are more likely to get water in your engine, especially if you don't have a snorkel.


The problem with getting water in your engine is that your engine was designed to compress air and gas as the piston moves up, ignite it and use the resultant explosion to push the piston back down.

Water can NOT be compressed when the piston moves up. The resulting damage could include a hole in the cylinder wall, a hole in the piston head, blown out valves or a hole in the head. The water will go somewhere, and it will take the weakest route it can find. This is known as a hydro-locked engine.

Getting the water IN the engine is easy. Getting it out, without destroying the engine, can be more of a challenge. First I'll share a few ways you can get the water in your engine so you'll be a bit more prepared while you're offroading and you'll know what to look for and what to avoid.

Riding on an ice-covered lake is a great way to get water in your engine. (It's also a great way to freeze your nads off if you fall through, so water in the engine may be the least of your worries at this point.) If the ice is thin and you ride over it, you could fall through. Unless you're quick to shut the engine off you're almost guaranteed to get water in your engine.

Crossing streams, lakes, and rivers that are too deep is another great way to get water in your engine. Carburetors and air-boxes are typically on the upper end of the engine so you'd have to be pretty deep to get water in there, but it can happen. Know where your air intake is and be sure to keep that above the water line.

When you cross deep water going too fast you risk splashing water up into the air box and having it get sucked into the engine. It only takes a little bit of water in your engine to destroy it, so be careful crossing deep water too fast.

Steps to Clean Out Your Engine Safely

So when you've got water in your engine, and if you're lucky enough to have it shut itself off before it does any real damage, there are a few steps you should take to clear the water out before you try to start it:

  1. First, drain the fuel tank, fuel lines, and the oil. While it's draining, put a fan on the wiring and dry it out. Remove and clean the carburetor.
  2. Take the plugs out of the engine and turn the motor over to force any water in the cylinder out. Water in other parts of the engine will come out with the oil. Add oil to the engine and turn it over again, without the plugs in. Let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil to see if there's any water in it (it will look like a white milky substance if there is water mixed with the oil). If it's there, drain it again and start over until there is little or no white showing in the oil.
  3. Now re-install the spark plug, add gas, then try to start it. You should have a can of ether handy just in case it's stubborn, but don't use too much. If it starts, let it run for a couple of minutes without revving it. Don't ride it either.
  4. After it runs for a few minutes, shut it off, drain the oil, and change the filter. Run it again for a few minutes then shut it off and check again for milky colored oil. If you have none, you should be good to go.
  5. If you cannot start the engine, you may have already ruined it and you will probably need to seek a professional to repair it, or, more likely, you'll have to replace it.
Sours: https://www.liveabout.com/get-water-out-of-atv-engine-4565

It happens all the time, water gets sucked into your engine or somehow makes its way into your gas tank. It makes sense with all the puddles, rivers, and streams you ride through out on the trail. Or maybe the gas tank was left open and it rained quite a bit.

However it happened, you need to remove the water from your fuel tank or engine before you try to start up the machine. It’s not a very hard process and if you follow the steps below, you will be able to start your engine without causing any damage.

They do make a Fuel System Water Remover found here on Amazon. But this is only really useful for small amounts of water and this will only remove water from your fuel system. To completely clean all water out of your machine, follow the steps below.

What Happens If I Start My ATV With Water In The Engine?

The most common results from running an ATV with water in the engine include, blown piston rings, blown valves, or a hole in the cylinder wall or head. You see the engine was made to compress an air/fuel mixture.

The air/fuel mixture will compress by the piston moving up, to the point where a spark will light it causing a small explosion which sends the piston back down. Water doesn’t compress. So if there is water in the combustion chamber when the piston is moving upwards trying to compress an air/fuel mixture. The pressure gets to be too much and the water will find its way out of the cylinder somehow.

Usually it will just blow a piston ring, but those aren’t fun to replace. In any matter, it’s best to remove the water from the engine and the fuel before trying to start the ATV. So lets get into the steps to do that.

Steps To Get Water Out Of An ATV Engine

If ever think you’re getting water in your ATV engine, like if you’re in really deep water or something. It’s best to shut the engine off immediately. As you can see in my picture in the sidebar, I’ve done this before. Thankfully I shut the engine off as I started to feel the ATV bog down and prevented any real damage from happening.

Luckily you shut the engine off before any real damage was done too, right. If so, follow these steps before trying to start your ATV again.

Step 1: Change Air Filter

Check the air filter first, none of the other steps will do you any good if your air filter is wet when you go to try starting the machine up again. If the air filter is wet, take it out of the air box.

Wipe the air box out with paper towels or rags and let dry completely. If you can get your air filter to dry out, you might be able to use it again. Just make extra sure it’s completely dry inside and out.

Step 2: Drain Fuel

Drain the fuel tank, fuel lines, and clean the carburetor if your engine has one. While you’re at it, drain the oil and remove the oil filter too. If any water got in your oil, it could cause some major problems for you later on.

I like to spray some carb cleaner in all the ins and outs of the carburetor just to make sure any water in there gets removed. It’s a good idea to let your gas tank air dry after you drained it as well.

Step 3: Force Water Out Of Cylinder

You’ve already drained the oil out of the engine and removed the oil filter, so now to force the water out of the cylinder, remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over a few times. Most of the water should have come out when you drained the oil, but this will help get any remaining water out.

Refill the engine with oil, put on a new oil filter, and turn the engine over again, with the spark plugs still taken out. You’re going to want to look at the oil after you’ve let it sit for a few minutes. You’re trying to see if there is any water mixed in with the new oil you just added. If there is water you will see white colored milky areas rising to the top of the oil.

If you see water in there still, drain the oil and do those steps again. You really want to make sure there is very little or no milky white stuff in the oil.

Step 4: Run Engine For A Few Minutes

Put the spark plugs back in, put some fresh fuel in the tank, and see if it’ll start up. After you let it run for a few minutes, check the oil again for water. If you don’t see any milky white liquid in the oil, you should be good to go. If you do see some, change the oil and filter again until you don’t see any water in the oil.

If it does not start up, you may have done some damage. You will probably want to check the piston rings, piston, and cylinder for damage. I sank an old Polaris Scrambler when I was younger, and water got into the engine. The piston rings were shot and needed to be replaced.

If you want some tips on how to get an ATV to run again by doing a tune-up check out my, ATV Won’t Start: Common Problems And How To Fix article.

How To Avoid Getting Water In An ATV Engine

With some of the terrain you ride through, it may be impossible to avoid water. But do try to avoid going too deep. Try to keep your exhaust and air filter above water at all times. Your air filter may be in an air intake box, if so, keep that above water also.

You could also try adding a snorkel kit to your ATV. Snorkel kits allow you to go into deeper water with your ATV without the worry of doing damage to your engine. To learn more about snorkel kits and how to make one yourself, check out my How To Snorkel An ATV article.

Sours: https://atvhelper.com/how-to-remove-water-from-an-atv-fuel-tank-and-engine/

Atv water oil in

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How To Fix A Flooded Four Wheeler(In Under Five Minutes)

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He heard all the sounds inside Skynet's body.

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I was just addicted to her young body. Her inexperience, naivety. She trusted me. She trusted what the Elephant told her. And he told her that it was not right to fuck just like that.

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