Night sky halloween costume

Night sky halloween costume DEFAULT

Night Sky Halloween Costume



In this project, we’ll create a wearable costume using conductive thread to connect LilyPad LEDs to a LilyTiny, powered by LilyPad battery holders. Make your own by following the step-by-step instructions below.

Heads up! This project is designed for advanced sewers who have experience working with LilyPad products.

Design and build time: 3-5 Weeks

Final Project

Suggested Reading

If this is your first sewable electronics project, we recommend you read our LilyPad Basics tutorial.

Materials and Tools

Let's go over all of the things you'll need to sew your project together.

Items required for the Night Sky Costume:

Note: To make the LEDs a little bit more bright, you could use a LiPo battery and a LilyPad Simple Power in place of the two LilyPad battery holders. This can reduce the amount of battery holders and coin cells attached to the project. Additionally, the project can be recharged.

You Will Also Need:

  • Cape Pattern (or any garment pattern of your liking)
  • Denim Fabric for Lining (yardage based on pattern requirements)
  • Galaxy Printed Fabric (yardage based on pattern requirements)
  • Sewing Machine
  • Navy or Black Thread
  • Hot Glue Gun w/ Extra Hot Glue Sticks
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Sewing Needles
  • Glow-in-the-Dark Puff Paint
  • Iron-on Adhesive
  • Clothing Iron
  • Colored Pencils in White, Red, and Yellow

Understanding Your Circuit

In this project, you will be sewing several of the same circuit. The cape that we have made includes 10 circuits. Let's take a few minutes to understand what these look like and how they work before we get started.

Notice that the silver sew tabs on your LilyPad LEDs and battery holders are labeled either positive or negative. Many electronic components like these have polarity, meaning electric current can only flow through them in one direction.

LED Polarity

If hooked up incorrectly, they will not light up. Batteries are also polarized; they have a positive and negative side. Always check the labels on LilyPad pieces to make sure they are correctly oriented before sewing together a circuit.

LED Constellation

The following diagram illustrates the circuit you will be following in order to add twinkling LEDs to your garment. The number of constellations will determine how many LEDs you will need, as well as how many circuits you will be building. I will be including 18 - 21 LEDs per circuit, meaning 6-7 LEDs per I/O pin, as seen below.

circuit diagram

Notice how the LEDs have been grouped into three sets. No matter how many LEDs are included in your circuit, you will want to divide them into three groups as shown. The '-' tab of every single LED in your circuit connects to the rest with conductive thread, as well as the '-' tab on the LilyTiny and the '-' tab for power.

The '+' tabs will be treated differently. For each group of LEDs, you will connect all the '+' tabs inside that group together with conductive thread, and then connect them to either pins 0, 1, or 3 on the LilyTiny. We are not using pin 2 in this project as the pre-programmed animation is not ideal for the design. This circuit configuration is an example of LEDs in a parallel circuit. For power, you will need two LilyPad battery holders per circuit also wired in parallel in order to boost the longevity of power for a long night out. Connect the '+' tab of one of the battery holders to the '+' tab of the LilyTiny, and then the '-' tab of the same holder to the '-' tab of the LilyTiny. Then connect the '-' tab of the second holder to '-' of the first holder, and '+' on the second holder to '+' on the first holder.

Notice that the battery holder is dulled out in our circuit diagram. That is because it will lie on the opposite side of the fabric to LEDs and LilyTiny. The LEDs and LilyTiny should lie face-up on the backside of the fabric, or the side that will not be against your body. The battery holders should be on the other side of the liner, which will be against your body and remains exposed, allowing for access to replace batteries and switch on/off.

Preparing your Garment

Before we start sewing the circuits, there are a few steps we need to take to prepare our garment.


Iron your fabric. Before cutting out the pattern it is important to remove creases and wrinkles.

iron fabric


Following the pattern instructions, cut the lining out of the denim fabric. All LilyPad components will be sewn onto the lining. We are using denim because it is a heavier fabric with a strong structure, making it ideal for adding sewable electronics. A flimsier fabric will be much more difficult to work with.

Cut the outer layer of the garment from the cotton night sky fabric and set aside for later.

cut fabric


Sew the lining together according to the pattern instructions.

sew lining


Download the design file provided.

Download Cape Constellation Design Here

Using it as a guide, draw the constellations on the side of the lining that will not be against your body with a white colored pencil.

Note: For this project, it is important to plan the approximate design of constellations on your garment. If you're making a cape garment, you can use our design file (provided in the link above) as a guide. You can also design your own constellation map for a garment of a different shape. You will use this document as a road map as you move forward in the project. No matter the style of your garment or the pattern of constellation, the steps to complete the project will be the same.

draw constellations


Using a Sharpie, make a small dot on each star in the constellations you drew on the fabric. The white pencil tends to fade as you work, so these Sharpie dots will help you along the way.


Arranging Your Circuit

Warning: Don't put batteries in while you are arranging and sewing your circuit.

Each dot you marked with the Sharpie represents where a single LilyPad LED will live. Almost 200 LEDs have been included on our cape. That translates to 10 circuits. Count the number of dots you drew and divide that by 18-21 to figure out how many circuits you will be breaking the constellations into. It is OK if some circuits have a few more LEDs than others.

Do not worry about LEDs in a given constellation being part of separate circuits, as the wiring will be hidden upon completion.

While working on this project, we found it to be best practice to work on one circuit at a time. The following steps describe how to make a single circuit. Repeat until all the LEDs on your garment are sewn into a circuit.


Find a set of 18-21 dots on your garment and place LilyPad LEDs over them. Place the LilyTiny somewhat centered among the LEDs and two LilyPad coin cell battery holders upside down, as they will ultimately be placed on the opposite side of the garment.

Plot LEDs


Using the circuit diagram provided above and a white pencil, start to draw out the circuit design on the fabric. Keep in mind that traces cannot cross each other as that will cause a short.

When you have figured out the general arrangement of LilyTiny to LEDs, that will allow you to sew the circuit together as expressed in the diagram and start to hot glue the electronic components down in place. Make sure that the '+' and '-' tabs are arranged properly. The battery holders will live on the opposite side of the garment, so do not glue them down just yet but rather keep them in place for reference by leaving them upside down.

Remember: Glue is great for keeping your components in place, but it can interfere with your circuit. Try to keep glue clear of sew tabs.

[![Plan Circuit](](

###STEP 10: Using a red colored pencil, draw lines from I/O pins 0, 1, and 3, past the '+' tabs to the LEDs that they will connect to.

Note: Notice that pin 2 is not being used. This pin has a built in blink animation when connected to an LED. While a lovely animation, it doesn't suit the purpose of this project, so we are sticking to pins 0, 1, and 3.

Then use a yellow colored pencil (or any color other than red) to draw a ground line connecting all '-' tabs according to the diagram.

Drawn Circuit

You will use these drawn lines as a guide on the sewing machine, so they should be straight and pass by all the sew tabs they will eventually be connected to.

Once the circuit has been drawn, flip the garment over and hot glue the two battery holders into place.

Stitching It Together

If you need help sewing with conductive thread, this tutorial covers the basics.

STEP 11:

Place a bobbin of conductive thread into your sewing machine, keeping the regular sewing thread on top. Sew along the lines drawn with the two colored pencils. These will act like rails on a breadboard as we move forward. Leave long tails of thread at the beginning and end of each sewn path.

Sewing Machine

STEP 12:

Connect the individual sew tabs on your components to the conductive thread paths that are acting as rails. For components near the end of the path, thread your needle with the conductive thread tail left at the end of the path and sew it around the tab. For the rest of the components, tie a new piece of conductive thread around the conductive thread on the rail, making sure it is secured tightly and that there is physical connection between the two threads. Then sew it around the sew tab of your component. In this step it is most important to make sure you are making strong connections. This usually means sewing over the tabs and knotting around the thread rails many times over. Also, do not forget to connect the battery holders on the opposite side of the fabric to the circuit!

The components should look like this when the tabs have been sewn:

LilyPad LED sewn

The opposite side of the fabric with the conductive thread rails should look like this:

Opposite Side of LilyPad LED

Repeat until all components in a single circuit are connected according to the diagram via conductive thread.

STEP 13:

Conductive thread can fray and easily cause an unnoticeable short, especially around the tails left from sewing and knotting around your connections. In order to protect these connections and avoid unnecessary shorts, lay your garment out with the battery holders up. Cut down the tails around your connections, and then immediately add a dab of hot glue to keep it both secure and insulated.

STEP 14:

Once all of the loose thread has been either snipped away and/or insulated, you can test the circuit. Add batteries to the holders and switch them on. If an LED is not working, now is your time to figure out why and fix it. Issues usually include loose connections or shorts, and you may need to re-sew a component or two. Make sure to build in plenty of time for de-bugging your circuits.


Repeat steps 6--14 for the remainder of LEDs on your garment. We found that each circuit can take approximately 5--6 hours. So again, make sure you give yourself plenty of time to complete these steps.

Finishing the Garment

Once all your LEDs have been sewn into working circuits and you have tested/debugged them, you can finish sewing your garment together.

STEP 15:

Remove the conductive thread from your sewing machine and replace it with regular thread. Sew together your cotton fabric for the outer layer of the garment according to the pattern.

sew fabric

STEP 16:

Sew the lining (with your circuits) with the outer cotton fabric. The battery side of the lining and the outer side of the cotton should be touching while you do this. The LED/LilyTiny side and wrong side of the cotton should be facing out --- kind of an inside out situation. Make sure you leave 6--12 inches of unsewn hem to bring the right side out later, as shown in step 19.

combine lining and fabric

STEP 17:

Lay out the garment flat, with the lining face up, and iron on double-sided, iron-on adhesive to the areas around your circuit.

iron on adhesive 1

STEP 18:

Peel the paper off the iron-on adhesive.

peel adhesive

STEP 19:

Using the area of unsewn hem, pull the right side out from the inside so that the LEDs and LilyTinys will now be inside, and the battery packs will be outside. Once completed, your garment should be right side out, and the raw edges of fabric hidden inside.

right side out

STEP 20:

Make sure the garment is fully right side out and begin to iron over the hems, making a clean, flat edge.

iron hems

STEP 21:

Iron around your circuits to activate the iron-on adhesive against the cotton. This will keep the two fabrics from separating, thus making sure your LEDs can be visible at all times.

iron adhesive

STEP 22:

Find the unsewn area on the hem. Fold the raw edges inward. Pin them together, and then sew along the edge.

finish hem

STEP 23:

Sew on any notions (i.e., buttons or clasps).

add notions

STEP 24:

Put batteries in all your battery holders and turn on all of the circuits. Lay the garment out with the cotton fabric side up. Using the constellation map, draw lines between stars using glow-in-the-dark puff paint.

connect constellations

STEP 25:

Leave it overnight to dry.

let dry

STEP 26:

Flip the cape over to the other side and cover all the conductive thread traces with the remainder of the puff paint. This will insulate all of your circuits and make the garment safer to wear. Let dry overnight.

Insulate Conductive Thread

STEP 27:

Once dry, turn on the switches for each battery holder to light up the LEDs.

Close Up

STEP 28:

Put on the cape and enjoy!

Final Project

Resources and Going Further

For more information related to the Night Sky Halloween Costume, check out the resources below:

These tutorials will guide you through concepts and advanced projects:


Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial)

Sparkly gold crown, check. A twirly skirt, check. All lit up, check.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

My daughter couldn’t decide on what she wanted to be for Halloween this year, but she knew she wanted those three things.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // Easy Star Crown Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

This starry night sky costume was just the ticket!…and it’s probably my most favorite costume I’ve made to date.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

I made this costume last minute…what’s new!? ;)…so I don’t have step by step photos, but it’s easy to see how it was accomplished from the finished photos.

If you want a tutorial for the felt cape she is wearing, check out this five minute felt cape tutorial. I just added glitter paper stars with some hot glue.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!


  • Two-layered circle skirt*
  • 2 packs of LED battery operated string lights**
  • Matching thread
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Scissors

*Two layered circle skirt: I used THIS tutorial from Made Everyday, to make a circle skirt with an elastic waist. There are two skirt layers, the bottom layer is a polyester satin material, and the top layer is a sheer polyester fabric, both from Jo-Ann. I made the top layer about 1.5 inches longer than the bottom/under layer. You can also use a store bought skirt. 

**LED String Lights: I used some lights I got several years ago from Home Depot, but I found these string lights on Amazon that are much more affordable and have a much lighter/smaller battery pack! Here’s an affiliate link.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!


  1. Cut two tiny 1/4 inch slits about 1-2 inches down and to the side of the back center of the skirt.
  2. Sew around the inside of the slits to reinforce the slits into permanent openings. As you sew around the slit, it should turn into a circular opening.
  3. Position the battery packs inside the skirt and feed each strand of lights through the reinforced openings out to the top of the under skirt. The lights will be sandwiched between the under skirt and the top sheer skirt.
  4. Hand stitch the strand of lights to the under skirt. I snaked the lights around the skirt in a random pattern and secured the lights about every 5-8 inches with several passes of a simple whip stitch.
  5. To wear the skirt, wear a fanny pack or a leotard that will hold the battery packs under the skirt and keep them in place. You can also remove the stitching and the lights so that you can wash it or wear it unlit in the future.

Note: The LED lights on a wire so it can bend the skirt and wrinkle the skirt (see picture). With the sheer overskirt on top, you can’t really tell though.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // Easy Wire Star Crown


  • 18 gauge jewelry wire (about 1 yard)
  • Pliers/wire cutter
  • Glitter paper 
  • Hot glue gun
  • Scissors 
  • Pencil


  1. Measure around the head. Cut a piece of wire to form the crown. Be sure to add about 5 extra inches so that you can twist ends together to secure the circle. Note: I made my crown while she was at school, so I made it too large. I sized it down by twisting the wire in the back of the crown.
  2. Cut various lengths of wire, 6-10 inches in length, to create vertical lines sticking up from the crown. Twist them into the crown, and curl the top, exposed end of the wire (that’s sticking up), so that it doesn’t snag or poke anyone.
  3. Draw about a dozen 1-3 inch stars on the back of the glitter paper and cut them out. I freehanded them, but you can easily print up templates from google.
  4. Glue stars on the spikes of the crown and onto the front of the base of the crown.
  5. Use bobby pins to secure it to your hair.

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

My middle son decided to resurrect his Anakin costume complete with authentic Anakin scowl (I love it when kids recycle costumes!;)) I have a tutorial for the vest (and Obi-Wan version) HERE, and a link to the hooded robe on e-How toward the top of that post.

Find Nat’s felt cape tutorial HERE. It is super simple and takes 5 minutes tops!

Starry Night Sky Halloween Costume (+ Lighted Skirt Tutorial) // // An easy way to make a skirt light up with LED lights!

  1. 1988 jeep wrangler radiator
  2. Amazon latex gloves medium
  3. Logitech g920 stand
  4. Young turks youtube

Night Sky Costume

This year I decided I wanted to embody the Night Sky, with all its depth of light and omnipresence. I often like to create conceptual costumes, rather than specific characters, as this gives me more room for creativity.

What turned out to be one of the most important parts of the costume was creating it so that, although the form of my body was visible, there was no way to identify me. Every inch of my body was covered in black, and bespeckled with different tones of crystal glass beads that reflected whatever light was around me. I wore battery powered LED fairy lights under just the right weight of fabric so they twinkled through (which I secured with medical tape onto my skin!). When asked where I hid the battery packs I always answered with, “Battery packs!? What battery packs? Stars aren't powered by batteries!”
I sewed a mask from black nylons,and made sleeves to go under a sleeveless bodysuit by cutting the crotch out of a pair of nylons, and wearing them over my head. I added a turtleneck to the bodysuit out of scrap nylons, and thin socks (which I also made from the same pair that I had cut the mask from). I wore thin leggings under the bodysuit, and I purchased theatrical black gloves. It took me several days to sew the sparkly beads on each piece of the costume.

A night sky must have a moon and a moon must have archetypal dreaming lovers perched on it; and so I designed a pillbox style hat that would add to the sparse but stylized look. I actually used some black bra inserts that I had lying around my closet to create the hat, then firmed the shape with thick steel wire, and attached the moon. I created the moon out of several layers of fabric and wire and more fairy lights. I sculpted the couple out of lightweight foam clay and painted them, even adding pearl jewelry to the woman’s outfit. I design all of my costumes so that I can dance and move around freely, and so an elastic held it firmly to my head while the moon bobbed around, with the illusion of it floating over my right shoulder.

From the minute I emerged at each the event I attended to the very end of the night I got constant compliments, and a lot of people pointing and whispering how great my costume was that didn’t know I was watching them through the mask. The anonymity was incredibly powerful, and to offset the spook factor of me not having a face I would respond with a mischievous wave that made most folks giggle nervously. A few friends couldn’t place my voice and I had a lot of fun keeping my identity secret and listening in to the compliments. (Only when bright light was shined in my direction could my face be seen, but in photos I almost disappeared into the Night!). I was asked to pose in so many pictures I felt like I had my own paparazzi and I had to decline several photos in order to get to one of the contests in time! Overall the costume had a much broader reception than I had initially expected and I was very pleased to win 1st place in one and 5th in the other. (My winnings more than covered the $100 plus cost for materials!). My favorite compliment was from a woman who came up to me, looked me square in the starry face, (even thought she couldn’t see me), and said, “This is the best costume I have EVER seen and I’m 72 years old so that’s saying A LOT!”


It was somehow too much. But the brains seem to have taken on a life of their own, separate from the temporarily shocked consciousness. While it was trying to digest the fact that I had just had sex with the perfect lover without having a clue of what she was, the clever.

Halloween costume sky night

Lightly stroking and patting me on the ass, he asked me to relax and not squeeze the anus. For some reason, it was pleasant for me to take such care, although I considered myself too old for this. A minute after these uncle's words, I felt how strong uncle's rough hands push my buttocks apart. Then I felt a cool touch of Vaseline on my hole and my uncle's finger gently massaging my anus from the.


30 Halloween Costume Ideas for 2021 - From High Fashion To DIY

Beauty, and you would not want to take them off, and show us all your true beauty, suggested the third. - Of course, I would like to, but not for you, she smiled coquettishly, knowing that Roman would not hear anything anyway. - Maybe still with us.

Similar news:

By answering in this way, all my femininity woke up in me and from that moment I tried to behave like a girl. Continuing to caress his penis with my hand, I sat down on my knees in front of him. His phallus was so gorgeous that I could not resist and wrapped my lips around it and began to suck.

I tickled his head with my tongue, swallowing as much as possible everything that could fit in my throat. Without making us wait long, Igor invited us to go into the bedroom.

1810 1811 1812 1813 1814