Pyramid head costume

If you hesitate between two sizes, we advise going for the larger one, it’s easier to make an alteration in case of the unfit.

We have listed measurements for both men's and women's sizes in this guide. If you are doing Cross Cosplay, please make sure you send us the correct measurements.

Please allow 1-2 inches differes for the obove size chart and allow 1-3 inches differes for the customize size due to manual measurement , thanks(1inch=2.54cm, 1cm=0.39inch)

How To Measure

We suggest you have someone else help you to take your measurements. If you have any other special requirements, please add it to the "Special Instruction" field when you select your size.

Introduction: Pyramid Head Costume

5 People Made This Project!

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A custom mannequin display for an original Silent Hill pyramid head costume.

This custom display was created for a screen used Silent Hill pyramid head costume. The pyramid head or Red Pyramid as he’s also known is one of the most iconic characters from the video game and was one of the mostly highly anticipated characters in the film.

Our client had the right arm, chest and back prosthetics, as well as the character’s signature helmet. Our first job was to mount the prosthetics to the custom mannequin.The character carries a large sword in his right hand and it makes his arm much more muscular. To create this look on actor Roberto Campanella, make up artists created a one sleeved prosthetic  which created the look that his arms were two different sizes. We mounted that sleeve to the mannequin.  Once the pieces were all mounted we painted and scarred the bare arm so that it blended seamlessly with the prosthetic pieces.

The skirt was created with a leathery feel and heavily distressed to match the look seen in the film.  A base hidden beneath the skirt holds the very top-heavy statue upright.  We’ve had the fortune to work on a number of creepy costumes from the Silent Hill movies and love creating life-sized statues from these amazing screen used costumes!

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Oh oh I have looked into a lot of this sheet. I will say I haven't TRIED any of this, but in concept it is all solid.

With custom homemade stilt things, you need NEED to support the joints or else you are in for a world of hurt. If you happen to step on a rock and the entire thing twists? There is a high chance an ankle can snap without proper stability. So you're lucky with those blocks not causing you issues D:

If you want ideas, I say look up 'Digi Stilts' on YouTube. Lots of homemade ones, and while you'd be going for a flat footed look? You can see how people make their ankle supports. OR Buy a pair of rollerblades or snow boots from Good-Will. They bind the ankle well to prevent twists.

For the chest, I say take a note from a very skilled person on this forum, and add to it.

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39172-Halo-4-undersuit-(undecided-on-armor)

If you layer muscle groups atop a base suit, you can have that buff look, fill out broad shoulders, and have a good foundation. From there, you paint on some paintable latex overtop to seal it all into one 'flesh' layer. But do know you will need to buy special latex paints to be able to get a real skin color. ((Using an old toothbrush to flick brown can give a natural speckled freckle look on limbs.))

This will be VERY HOT though, easy to overheat. As such, a tip is to cut out the underarms and make it a skin colored mesh to allow some breathability. It isn't in a super visible point, and is good to release some warmth. For full body suits they say to leave the back of the knees, groin, and underarms meshed. But you probably know this XD I just like to give out tips just in case :3

How to make Pyramid Head costume

#	Item	Description
1	White Fabric	Wrap a white fabric around your torse. Make sure to make it look old, dirty, and bloodied by using fake blood.
2	Brown Leather Fabric	Use this brown leather fabric to make a thick waist belt.
3	Brown Leather Boots	Pyramid Head might be a monster, but even some monsters need good boots.
4	EVA Foam	Use this thick and durable EVA Foam to craft your Great Knife. Color it with metallic silver paint and make it look bloodied and rusty.
5	Wooden Dowel	Use a wooden dowel or two for the Great Knife handle.
6	Foam Roll	Use this thinner and light foam roll to create your triangular helmet.
7	Assorted Paint	Use lots of different paint colors to make your pieces look hyper-realistic.
8	Broadsword	a PVC cosplay sword prop for pyramid head
9	Skirt	Handmade skirt, painted & airbrushed
10	Blade	A more detailed & scary weapon

Pyramid Head is one of monsters present in the Silent Hill universe. It is also one the main and most well-known antagonists of the series. Pyramid Heads can be likened to executioners, and they are here in the world to punish all the sins that humans and non-humans have committed.

Pyramid Head definitely looks scary enough even just standing and doing nothing. It has the body of a male man who has a long, bloodied, dirty white fabric wrapped around his torso and a very long and deadly-looking Great Sword. Where a human head would’ve been, there’s only a metallic-looking triangle shape on top. Here’s everything you need to look like Pyramid Head.

About Pyramid Head

While Pyramid Head might not have a credited actor in the film, you can search up Roberto Campanello. He was the movement coordinator for the Silent Hill film.

Check out these sites to read more about Pyramid Head and the other characters from Silent Hill:

#male#scary#villain#games#monster#Silent Hill

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Silent Hill, a classic horror game that is as psychological as it is gory, made its debut in 1999. Since then, we’ve been able to revisit Silent Hill in several of its iterations, both in game and movie form. Interestingly enough, the game was originally based off of Centralia, a real-life borough in Pennsylvania that has become somewhat of a ghost town due to the coal fire that has been burning beneath its surface since 1962.

This tutorial features Pyramid Head, one of the most iconic characters of the series, who, in Silent Hill 2, represents the manifestation of James Sunderland’s guilt and anguish. This is a fairly easy build for both intermediate and newbie cosplayers. For a closet cosplay, check out this Pyramid Head guide.

Trying to figure things like measurements, lengths, and angles, has certainly caused ME a fair bit of anguish, and tears may or may not have been shed in the process of designing this costume, but don’t worry! I’ve done all the heavy lifting here so that all YOU have to do follow along. No math or tears required! (An honorable mention to my Pyramid Head cosplayer himself for making scale models for me and letting me cry it out.) So, without further ado, let’s begin!

You will need:

Step One:

To begin the pyramid helmet, cut the following pieces from your cardboard slabs using your box cutter, as seen in Fig 1 below:

Please note that this helmet was constructed to fit a person about 5”11 tall. Of course, there is a significant amount of wiggle room, but if need be you can shave a few inches off these measurements as required, though I wouldn’t suggest adding any extra on, should the helmet become unwieldy.

Step Two:

Construct the helmet from your cardboard pieces by attaching them together with masking tape.

Use the figure below as a reference guide:

Step Three:

As an optional but beneficial step, you may choose to cut a thin strip from your cardboard and attach it to the underside of the helmet, right beneath where your chin will be. This will keep your helmet steady and stable on your shoulders. (It will also help keep your helmet’s shape as you’re attaching it to the lip in the next step, so make sure the helmet sits appropriately on the lip. To do this, you may want to do Steps Three and Four simultaneously to make sure everything sits properly.) Otherwise, you may choose to attach the helmet to a safety hat using removable dots.

Step Four:

When it comes to attaching the lip to the bottom of the helmet, make a mark all along the lip pieces where your helmet will be placed. (For reference, this will coincide with the dotted lines on the lip pieces in Fig 1.)

Step Five:

Place your helmet on the lip pieces where this line has been marked. Holding your helmet in place, tape it to the lip. Do NOT tape the lips together until both lip pieces have been attached to the bottom of the helmet. For added security, try your best to seal the lip to the helmet by hot gluing the lip all the way around the inside of your helmet. Don’t worry if you can’t get every nook and cranny, this will just be for reinforcement.

Step Six:

Now for the foam. As you did with the cardboard, cut all your helmet pieces out of your foam. Using your spray adhesive, apply each foam piece to its corresponding piece on the cardboard helmet. Apply the lip pieces last. Reinforce every corner with hot glue, on the outside this time, and of course, around the edge where the lip meets the helmet.

Step Seven:

Prime your helmet with Plasti-Dip. Allow to dry fully before applying your black and red spray paints. You may use whatever method you prefer to paint your helmet, as for me, I started with a red coat, then blotched in some black over top of that. If you really want to make the helmet look rusty, grab a paper towel or a sponge and dab in some red and black acrylic paint as well, going layer by layer until you’ve achieved the look you desire.

Step Eight:

Next up is the sword. You can use whatever cardboard you have left to cut out the shape of your blade, but you will have to cut about 4 pieces to make it thick and sturdy. A great alternative to this is to hit up your local Joann’s or fabric store and ask if they have any empty cardboard bolts that are headed to the trash compactor. More than likely they’ll give you as many as you want, for free no less! For my sword, I used an empty felt bolt, as the bolts that carry felt are longer than the regular ones, but truly any bolt will do. Of course, cardboard is perfectly fine if you don’t want to make the trip or don’t have access to a fabric store near you.

Step Nine:

Using your hacksaw, cut your dowel rod down to the handle size you want, leaving a few extra inches at the bottom. If you are using a bolt like I did, you can cut a hole in the end of the top side and simply glue your dowel rod in like that. If you are using slabs of cardboard, you can wedge the dowel rod right in the middle of your slabs and glue it in place that way, using E6000 to make it sturdy and reinforcing with hot glue. Then, glue all your slabs together with your spray adhesive.

Step Ten:

Next, take your remaining foam and place your cardboard sword in the center, with your handle sticking out of the top. Simply spray the entire sword down with spray adhesive and fold your foam over it to make a big ol’ sword taco. Make sure you are folding around the TOP edge of the sword, so that the ends of the foam meet each other at the blade. Trim the excess foam away and reinforce all the edges with hot glue. Again, prime your sword with Plasti-Dip, then spray paint as you see fit. Add a greyish edge around the blade by mixing your white and black acrylic paints.

Step Eleven:

For Pyramid Head’s apron, take an old T-shirt, cut the sleeves off right at the seam, and place it on top of your muslin. Trace around the shirt, then at the bottom edge, drop the length of the “hem” line all the way down until it reaches about half-way across your shin. Cut. This will be your back piece.

Pro Tip:To make things easier, fold your muslin and your T-shirt in half down the middle, that way you get a perfectly symmetrical piece.

Step Twelve:

Repeat this step, except this time, Cut out a left and right piece separately from each other such that they crisscross each other at the front.

Sew all your pieces together except for the crisscross front opening. Hem all your edges (except for the very bottom edge, which you may choose to leave raw if you like.)

Cut 2 strips of your black vinyl to create straps. These strips should be roughly 5 inches long by 2 inches thick, but you may alter these dimensions as you see fit. Sew them to the edge of the right front piece of your apron, then sew in your Velcro accordingly, such that the straps open and close appropriately. Lastly, cut a strip of muslin that measures a few inches thick, with a length that matches the measurement of your waist, plus a few inches extra. Attach Velcro to either end of this strip, which will serve as your belt.

Step Thirteen:

Now the fun part! To distress your apron and make it look rotted and bloody, fill your spray bottle with a few cups of water. Pour in a few tablespoons of acrylic paint. You can choose whichever color you’d like to start with first. I started by doing a layer of brown, then a layer of red, then a layer of black mixed with brown.

After you’ve got your paint and your water in your bottle, shake generously until paint is completely mixed in. Take your apron outside and spray all over, as randomly as you can. Your paint will dry lighter than it appears when you first spray it on, so don’t be afraid to really go for it. However, let each layer dry completely before starting another round of spray coloring. Repeat this process as many times as you like until you are left with a result you’re satisfied with. After that, you’re all done and ready to terrorize some locals!